My Grand Vacation begins

[Clark White]

While I would love to take a truly grand trip, taking a year or ten to travel around, I'm not quite ready to sell everything I own, leave family and friends behind, and live as a motorcycle bum. So instead, I'm taking the spring off from flying, taking a complicated leave from the ambulance company, and heading south for 6mo. We will be departing 2JAN, but in the mean time James (room mate) and his boss (my girl friend) are on two week x-mas vacation so I'm starting my report early.

Last weekend however, my room mate, girl friend and I took my truck to Vegas, LA, and back. We spent Friday night camped on the edge of the Grand Canyon just south of Lees Ferry. It wasn't too cold (only about 27f), but that was plenty cold enough for Ustadza to freeze with no camp fire.

The ghost of Ustadza after she froze to death...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-9kgXkgJ/1/L/DSC1387-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642721932_9kgXkgJ-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-x7Fg3MP/2/L/DSC1390-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642722148_x7Fg3MP-A-LB)

The next morning we got up to a solid layer of ice over everything and a low of 27f. We had collected enough firewood to run the Kelly Kettle and have a little fire though, so that made things much better.

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Z783csq/1/L/DSC1395-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642723169_Z783csq-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-HLq2kgh/1/L/DSC1396-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642724579_HLq2kgh-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-sqWmK3W/1/L/DSC1398-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642725305_sqWmK3W-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-NZGc2LH/1/L/DSC1400-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642725482_NZGc2LH-A-LB)

James packing up his tent.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-WMPQqZg/2/L/DSC1402-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642725849_WMPQqZg-A-LB)

James balancing the Kelly since we didn't have a level place to leave it.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-QTrnPm3/1/L/DSC1406-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642726121_QTrnPm3-A-LB)

We packed up camp and drove north through Kanab and Zion, where we stopped to do some sight seeing and walking around to stretch the legs.

Ustadza walking the trail to Zion Canyon Overlook.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-gMCbkXJ/1/L/DSC1410-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642726409_gMCbkXJ-A-LB)

Doing a valiant effort of holing the mountain up for people to pass...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-r4dg4HD/1/L/DSC1412-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642726700_r4dg4HD-A-LB)

The view!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-CVbWqh2/1/L/DSC1416-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642727310_CVbWqh2-A-LB)

While at the overlook, James was kind enough to take some pictures of the two of us.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Bwc3mZg/1/L/DSC1423-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642727685_Bwc3mZg-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-DHBDrp2/1/L/DSC1435-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642728150_DHBDrp2-A-LB)

While driving Zion Canyon we came across a bunch of deer, but this particular buck was utterly fearless and right on the edge of the road, so I took some pictures.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-VgcbwRG/2/L/DSC1472-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642728944_VgcbwRG-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-vHKKcdc/2/L/DSC1478-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642729507_vHKKcdc-A-LB)

We drove on to Vegas for the night where we met Ust's mom who was there for work. We had Korean for dinner, but Ust was getting sick so we turned in early for the night. The next morning we got up, checked out, and loaded the truck, only to find that my fairly new Diehard Platinum battery was deader then a door nail. We tried jumping it off another truck in the parking garage, but that didn't work so Ust's mom called AAA. AAA was able to jump us no problem, so we drove to breakfast where I immediately noticed the battery was still dead as the dinosaurs when I shut the truck down. We had a great breakfast, called AAA again, and headed off to Sears to warranty out the battery.

New battery installed (and a $20 install charge for their battery that failed early) we headed off through Red Rocks. We had originally planned to do some hiking, but all the dead batteries had delayed us too long, so we just drove the loop.

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-PW8vFtZ/1/L/DSC1483-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642729777_PW8vFtZ-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-DQTbFG5/1/L/DSC1486-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642730285_DQTbFG5-A-LB)

We arrived in LA late, dropped off Ust's mom, and went over to her sisters for the night where we had spaghetti and meat balls for dinner. Monday morning we took a walk through the original Farmers Market for breakfast and took a walk through the new mall outside.

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-hTmtC3v/1/L/DSC1528-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642731893_hTmtC3v-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-GCFJnkF/1/L/DSC1520-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642731432_GCFJnkF-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Hj2HHck/1/L/DSC1505-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1642730912_Hj2HHck-A-LB)

We had planned to camp in Anza Borrego Tue night, but Ust was getting sicker so we opted to come straight home instead. Was a long drive, stopped for a late lunch in the desert, but no pictures as we were just driving straight through. Ust is still sick, but slowly getting better so hopefully we will be able to go camping again soon!

Clark White

[Rexsname]

Great pictures Clark! Can't wait to see the shots you get on Vacation.


Best of luck


REX

[Clark White]

Thanks Rex!


Stolen from the ADV copy of this thread, James posted these...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-daPSoyx6La0/Tu_00xOGhmI/AAAAAAAABIs/jc0G73AmXLA/s640/IMG_20111216_165610.jpg
Took us forever to shake the truck shadowing us!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FJmameiSw-U/Tu_0CE3wqQI/AAAAAAAABIU/XfBwGHVhsOo/s640/IMG_20111217_080640.jpg
Marble Canyon sunrise.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6o49cuC3mAc/Tu_0rRSEQFI/AAAAAAAABIk/Z6BsdM-FdRM/s640/IMG_20111217_080824.jpg
Yar, it be a frosty morning.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NNuO1YPhLWc/Tu_0Vam9QjI/AAAAAAAABIc/gL33AVPZcDg/s640/IMG_20111217_080659.jpg
Two people wanting the fire to make itself. [not shown: third person, ditto]



So today Streakerfreak went for a ride, picking up a nail just north of Black Canyon City, so James and I went down to help, but the damage was more extensive then we could repair at the time, so he just called AAA and got a tow back to town.

The offending nail
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Friends/Random/i-gD2HPQ8/1/L/DSC1546-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Friends/Random/17048798_hs6mD5#1646782727_gD2HPQ8-A-LB)


James and Phill
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Friends/Random/i-R4jnpnM/1/L/DSC1548-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Friends/Random/17048798_hs6mD5#1646782851_R4jnpnM-A-LB)

Having some fun on the way to meet AAA, it was the only part of the road that wasn't well graded, so I couldn't resist
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Friends/Random/i-2gk8rpF/1/L/DSC1553-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Friends/Random/17048798_hs6mD5#1646782967_2gk8rpF-A-LB)

Clark

[Clark White]

I'm a little late posting this, but last Tuesday the 27th Streakerfreak, James, Forrest (going south with me on his KTM640 ADV) and I went for a loop ride around the center of the state. According to the reports that Phil had read the entire thing was 2wd car worthy...this was WRONG. Phil had done the same loop for Christmas, but had the before mentioned flat and had missed a turn, so we wanted to complete the entire loop on the right trails.

Antique store in Cordes just south of Mayer.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-g3wh2G6/0/L/DSC1560-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652626806_g3wh2G6-A-LB)

Forrest
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rNvSbQt/0/L/DSC1561-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652626921_rNvSbQt-A-LB)

The gang with Porky (my BMW).
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-w44wsD9/0/L/DSC1562-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652627064_w44wsD9-A-LB)

We rode down through Bumble Bee and stopped in Black Canyon City where Phil topped off his tank, before we continued south to the New River exit and FR41. The first part of FR41 was well maintained and we stopped shortly for some lunch.

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tx8kD2g/0/L/DSC1565-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652627403_tx8kD2g-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-k3DVwPz/0/L/DSC1566-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652627539_k3DVwPz-A-LB)

The view from my seat...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-jKcbL9Z/0/L/DSC1568-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652627849_jKcbL9Z-A-LB)

It didn't take too long before FR41 went rapidly from well graded road to a much rougher, rockier, muddier trail. We stopped before a mud hole to stretch our arms before riding through. The first three of us rode through, I told Phil and Forrest I would continue down the trail to take pictures of them riding down. I waited at the bottom of the trail for a few minutes, but no one came down. Wondering what was taking so long, I started walking up and noticed that there were two bikes, but no riders at the top of the trail. As I got a little closer I see James bike sideways in the trail, while he inspects it with great care; Phil standing next to him holding the windscreen. I come walking up and to get the story, and James looks up;
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-v5xZ8LN/0/L/DSC1572-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652628140_v5xZ8LN-A-LB)

Turns out, when he went through the mud, he caught the edge of a rut, spun sideways, high sided, got in a fight (and lost) with a mesquite tree, broke his top case, and landed in a ditch with a bush.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-J8RBWNH/0/L/DSC1574-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652628307_J8RBWNH-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-v6JkTvc/0/L/DSC1599-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652629586_v6JkTvc-A-LB)

The windshield went back on with relative ease as it was only held on with rubber grommets, and amazingly nothing was actually broken on the bike. James shook it off and I got to take the pictures I had been waiting for earlier.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-MmrsMdb/0/L/DSC1579-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652628531_MmrsMdb-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rTqpKcf/0/L/DSC1582-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652628811_rTqpKcf-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tSTmT85/0/L/DSC1589-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652628969_tSTmT85-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-xqgJzXh/0/L/DSC1595-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652629088_xqgJzXh-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-B6HcmnD/0/L/DSC1598-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652629249_B6HcmnD-A-LB)

The trail continued to get worse as we went, well beyond the abilities of any 2wd I'v ever seen. Less then a mile from the mud hole where james tried to wrangle the mesquite, we came to a rather steep hill covered in fist sized ball bearings. Having just fallen, James took one look at the hill, at Forrest and Phil having trouble on their much more worthy dirt bikes, and started to wonder, "how far is it back to the interstate?"

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-S49cSPR/0/L/DSC1603-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652629911_S49cSPR-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ZbrKjWC/0/L/DSC1601-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652629723_ZbrKjWC-A-LB)

I got off to check out the trail my self, and after some convincing, James agreed to give it a try (which he was quite successful at I might add).
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-7Sb7rgx/0/L/DSC1608-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652630094_7Sb7rgx-A-LB)

After James went, it was my turn. I had a rocky start with Porky not wanting to get moving on a steep loose hill, but once we gained a little momentum and traction, we made it up with everyone else just fine.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-kTsGjzD/0/L/DSC1614-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652630387_kTsGjzD-A-LB)

Feeling good about ourselves and making it up with out any falls, we continued (but our confidence was soon to be bruised again). I stopped to take some pictures while everyone else continued:
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-QGDrXNQ/0/L/DSC1615-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652630599_QGDrXNQ-A-LB)

Once again I missed out on some of the good action. I came around a corner to a beautiful creek crossing with golden trees, pools of water, and James standing on the far side of a ditch having just picked up his bike on a steep decomposed granite hill. I pulled up next to him, almost falling while crossing the ditch my self, and told James that I would return when I found a better place to park my bike. Nice thought, but my best intentions didn't last long. I could see Phil and Forrest parked at the top of another hill, so I figured I would just ride up to them and enlist some more help. I picked my line, gave it some gas, slid sideways, and stepped off my now napping pig.

The offending hill.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-CSxKsLz/0/L/DSC1618-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652630756_CSxKsLz-A-LB)

We managed to get both my and James' bikes down to a flat place, and Phil explained they had taken a bypass around the hill I had attempted. Before continuing however, we all agreed it was hot, sunny, dusty, and time for a break. I ate some left over lunch and we all enjoyed some shade near a shallow pool in the creek.

James and Phil
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-2DBMhf3/0/L/DSC1619-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652631018_2DBMhf3-A-LB)

Your's truly
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-hBpBfkn/0/L/DSC1621-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652631181_hBpBfkn-A-LB)

And Forrest resting his eyes
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-NhMKrcs/0/L/DSC1625-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652631360_NhMKrcs-A-LB)

After resting, James remounted his steed, and following the bypass made it to the top with the other two bikes. Forrest rode his bike back down, and being the stubborn folk that we are, we were bound and determined to rode up the harder hill. A quick scoutting made me wonder about my sanity the first time around as it was plainly obvious that while the left side was fairly simple, the right side (where I had originally attempted) was virtually impossible. Forrest went first, and while he stayed on the bike, his first attempt was a complete failure, spinning him sideways and completely off the road.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-5FS3T5t/0/L/DSC1631-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652632435_5FS3T5t-A-LB)

[Clark White]

With some help he backed down, used some less throttle, and made his way up with little effort.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-bhvVVsx/0/L/DSC1640-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652632588_bhvVVsx-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-5F93HpJ/0/L/DSC1645-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652632744_5F93HpJ-A-LB)

I gave James my camera and made my way up with ease following the left side rather then the rutted right.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-SWMqwMx/0/L/DSC1649-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652632899_SWMqwMx-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-FZM9N8L/0/L/DSC1650-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652633068_FZM9N8L-A-LB)

We didn't make it but another 1/2 mi before we had to stop to fix James' bent handle bars, where I also realized I had lost my Spot.

This isn't ment to be a flattering picture of James, but it clearly shows the thoughts of the entire group.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-CM83nNM/0/L/DSC1654-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1652633171_CM83nNM-A-LB)

Forrest and I returned to our river side lunch spot while Phil and James continued on. We made it back down and up the bad hill, having found the Spot, and opened the throttles to catch up with James and Phil. The rest of the ride went well, though it took us much longer then we had planned, putting us well after dark. We all agreed that as much as we wanted to complete the proper loop, we were now very cold, tired, and more concerned with getting back for a late dinner. Interstate it was!

It was a great ride, and while it was more then we had planned, I enjoyed all the unexpected challenges. Forrest was quite surprised at how Porky did on rough trails and has finally stopped giving me crap about how his KTM is better, and I was rudely reminded of a lesson I learned long ago as a kid...always plan on being latter then you planned, colder then you planned, and hungrier then you planned...next time I wont bloody forget to bring extra warm gear and food!

Clark

[Streakerfreak]

Another write up on this trip here.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/71635-Blood-Sweat-and-Broken-Motorcycles?p=1016356#post1016356

[rockandroll]

What great pictures!

[Clark White]

What great pictures!

Thanks! There will be many more starting in a few days!

Clark

[Rexsname]

Well, Clark and Co. are on the road this morning.... Best of luck to one and all! So awesome that you have chosen to put your priorities in this order and that you are willing to share your trip with all of us.

Have fun, be careful, make wise descicions!


REX

[Clark White]

Thanks Rex! Got an early start after breakfast at the Waffle Iron with Mom, Ustadza, and James, and we are now sitting in my Uncles beautiful back yard in Tucson listening to the birds. We'll be headed a little further south this-afternoon to stay the night at my grandparents before crossing the border to Rocky Point tomorrow morning with my Dad (he's on his was down for work).

Couple pictures of the bikes fully loaded.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-b9d389T/0/L/DSC1665-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1657596507_b9d389T-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Szfx35W/0/L/DSC1668-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1657596850_Szfx35W-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ZftqWRx/0/L/DSC1669-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1657597182_ZftqWRx-A-LB)

Clark

P.S. Mom, Ustadza, and DOG; I miss you guys already!

[mr_ed]

Have fun man! Wish I could tool along with you guys!

[NothingClever]

Clark,

Are the Rev'it! pants still holding up?

BTW, you are the MAN for hossin' that Gummi Kuh around.

[Harald Hansen]

Great pictures in your first post! I look forward to seeing more from your big trip.

[timh]

Love the pics. This sounds like its going to be an incredible trip.

That KTM makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. My 450X is great for most of what I do but sometimes I find myself wishing I had something like that also that I could load up for multi day offroad trips.

Have fun!!!:wings:

[Clark White]

We're down in Rocky Point at my friends house right now, waiting for the third guy, Clay, to get caught up and join us this weekend. We had a nice ride down to Tucson and Green Valley to see my Uncle and stay with my Grandparents Tuesday night before following my Dad across the border in Luke Ville Wed morning. I didn't really have a good idea of what we were riding into, turns out my friends house is bloody massive and amazing, not a little condo like I had thought.

The gang at the border in Luke Ville where we split ways, Dad SE for work and we went SW for Rocky Point.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-BMbnXCG/0/L/DSC1670-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660580351_BMbnXCG-A-LB)

Parting shot of Dad
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-2LTWfW8/0/L/DSC1671-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660580610_2LTWfW8-A-LB)

The crappy view from my bedroom window...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-gq6VB6B/0/L/UntitledHDR2-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660580801_gq6VB6B-A-LB)

Looking east from the roof top patio under a moonlit sky...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Xzhmk3n/0/L/DSC1683-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660596721_Xzhmk3n-A-LB)

And post sunset looking west from the patio
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-kBDBZkf/0/L/DSC1690-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660596984_kBDBZkf-A-LB)

This morning I got up around 630 thinking I'd watch the sunrise, but that only lasted until about 6:30.30 when I said screw that and went back to sleep...Forrest and I didn't get up until 9am, when we then sat on the downstairs patio and drank a few cups of coffee before taking a stroll down the beach.

Forrest infront of the house playing with his new circular polarizer for the first time
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-d3qJZ2x/0/L/DSC1701-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660597162_d3qJZ2x-A-LB)

The beach
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-pFbXwVC/0/L/DSC1702-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660597381_pFbXwVC-A-LB)

Another shot of Forrest and his new toy...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-q754dtd/0/L/DSC1705-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660597519_q754dtd-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-KXKLDPC/0/L/DSC1713-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660597687_KXKLDPC-A-LB)

Wild flowers between the houses
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-nPvKtDz/0/L/DSC1726-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660598014_nPvKtDz-A-LB)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Gx87CRR/0/L/DSC1748-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660598176_Gx87CRR-A-LB)

And a shot Forrest took while holding my camera. We were getting the "little" boat ready for 7am deep sea fishing tomorrow morning...gee it sure is a tough life down here, I hope Clay hurries up!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-mKWnkCM/0/L/DSC1761-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#1660598347_mKWnkCM-A-LB)

We'll be having fresh fish for dinner tonight with some Canadian neighbors, after which I'll try to get back and post up some pictures of this amazing house.

Clark

[Clark White]

Clark,

Are the Rev'it! pants still holding up?

BTW, you are the MAN for hossin' that Gummi Kuh around.

Thanks all! NothingClever, they are still holding up great, though I chose to take my friends old pair of Tourmaster pants as they have sip off legs exposing mesh which is much cooler for the tropics.

[1leglance]

great start to this report...
I am really liking the pics!

[Clark White]

Yesterday we went fishing about 15mi off the coast and caught about 15lbs Rock Bass and Trigger fish, most of which we will be taking back to my grandparents in Green Valley.

Today Forrest and I wen't over to Cholla Bay in a borrowed Jeep, had a Pina Colada, and took some pictures of the local pelicans.

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-FCBM6wp/0/L/DSC1815-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1662915278&k=FCBM6wp&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-bwL3X4z/0/L/DSC1840-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1662915488&k=bwL3X4z&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-DngDkgj/0/L/DSC1848-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1662915704&k=DngDkgj&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tsZHvcz/0/L/DSC1878-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1662915814&k=tsZHvcz&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-pMbvWJC/0/L/DSC1892-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1662916011&k=pMbvWJC&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-PLDjjcF/0/L/DSC1893-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1662916304&k=PLDjjcF&lb=1&s=A)

Tomorrow we leave early to go back to Tucson, pick up a few last things like my new GoPro 2, have lunch and drop off fish at my grandparents, and camp out in the desert. That will probably make this the last post for a few days, as we will then head to San Carlos (finally heading south for real!) Monday and camp/hotel it up while we wait for Clay to catch up Wed.

Clark

[Christian P.]

Clark

this is awesome! have a great trip and hopefully we'll see you in South America later this year.

[Clark White]

Christian, when and where will you be? And thanks!

The moon was impressively bright, so I decided to take some moon lit pics of the area from the roof.

One of Forrest I forgot to post earlier.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-65B3QD8/0/L/DSC1933-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1663295536&k=65B3QD8&lb=1&s=A)

The roof of my friends house.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-2jQGtvv/0/L/DSC1941-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1663309056&k=2jQGtvv&lb=1&s=A)

Neighbors
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-vCDpWHC/0/L/DSC1942-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1663309210&k=vCDpWHC&lb=1&s=A)

Looking north towards Rocky Point
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Bkx9fdR/0/L/DSC1945-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1663309542&k=Bkx9fdR&lb=1&s=A)

Forrest workin hard on culling the 700 pictures that he's taken in the last few days. I'm about to teach him how to post, so hopefully you will get to see some of them!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-4F88b23/0/L/DSC1947-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1663309661&k=4F88b23&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Clark White]

Well we made it down to San Carlos last night. Getting our visas (tourist and moto) took over 2 hrs, so we didn't get here until an hour after sunset (not a fan of night riding down here!) but glad we push through. We are staying in Totonaka RV park, which is really nice; grassy spot, wifi, power, and showers with hot water. Other then maybe my girl friend, not too much more I could ask for! We rode hard yesterday, so no pictures...not that there is a whole lot to take pictures of along Rt15 anyway! This morning we got up and farted around camp for a while before heading out for breakfast and some exploring.

Camp...the picture was taken later in the day, and no, I didn't sleep in the hammock as it's too cold at night.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-JBSpqpM/0/L/DSC1976-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667338590&k=JBSpqpM&lb=1&s=A)

Our delicious breakfast!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-JQ3RxJf/0/L/GOPR0227-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667372865&k=JQ3RxJf&lb=1&s=A)

After breakfast we rode around doing some exploring and looking for a good dive shop.

Playing with the GoPro for some time lapse shots.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-gfrZhWG/0/L/GOPR0231-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667373964&k=gfrZhWG&lb=1&s=A)

Taking a look see at a new development going in on a beautiful little bay.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-hDnJ59Z/0/L/DSC1950-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667334684&k=hDnJ59Z&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-7pQSnn4/0/L/DSC1951-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667335290&k=7pQSnn4&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-LHkpBzL/0/L/DSC1953-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667335901&k=LHkpBzL&lb=1&s=A)

Almost all houses and gated communities had mass quantities of flowers growing infront of them, all deep red's, pink's, and purple's. This picture is true to color...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-9x4pLtZ/0/L/DSC1959-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667336373&k=9x4pLtZ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-5fwhBtD/0/L/DSC1961-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667336681&k=5fwhBtD&lb=1&s=A)

For lunch we decided we had had enough of spending $10 or more per meal, so we stopped by the Ley's down the street; we picked up some bread, cheese, donut and empenada, papaya, apple juice, and agave liquor (not Tequila???). It was delicious, though the bread needed something more then cheese with it, and I'm not going to lie, that agave crap is just that: CRAP. But we drink it anyways, it was $1!

Our spread.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-QDZhTV7/0/L/DSC1966-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667337056&k=QDZhTV7&lb=1&s=A)

The appetizer
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-djxhLH2/0/L/DSC1971-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667338245&k=djxhLH2&lb=1&s=A)

After lunch I finally got around to setting up my hammock. I wasn't certain that it would work, but I wanted to try using my bike for one side of it. Turns out that as long as you have it set up all in a straight line, it works great!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-QggTMFD/0/L/DSC1978-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667338927&k=QggTMFD&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-3L2NK8X/0/L/DSC1979-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667339145&k=3L2NK8X&lb=1&s=A)

My thought's on the matter...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ZHt3Q97/0/L/DSC1983-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667339643&k=ZHt3Q97&lb=1&s=A)

And while I was loosing some water wate in the john, Forrest found he had the same thought's about this...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-jXVWrvm/0/L/DSC1981-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1667339348&k=jXVWrvm&lb=1&s=A)

Tomorrow I lay in the hammock (Forrest gets to borrow my recliner this way) and kill time. At some point I have to go down and get fitted for SCUBA gear, but that's about all we have to do (maybe some fishing for lunch?) The third guy, Clay, was supposed to be here tomorrow so we could leave Thursday, but apparently he doesn't understand schedules. Mostly we don't want a specific schedule, but we were supposed to leave last Monday, putting us in Panama by now, but multiple changes later he agreed to be here tomorrow...that has now changed to Thursday. I had Forrest pass along that we head south Friday whether he's here or not, we've had enough waiting. The up side of this of course is that I get to go diving Thursday morning, and try out the GoPro underwater!

We'll see if i take any more pictures tomorrow, but for now, it's late and I'm passing out!

Clark

[itamshredding]

Great views.


----------------------------

IT Asset Disposal (http://itamg.com) | IT Asset Disposition (http://itamg.com)

[roboter]

That KTM 640 is one bad ***** Machine! I had a 1999 640 AdventureR I rode all the way to Guatemala from Michigan in 2007-08 and just left it there. To this day it is the most serious adventure buy you can purchase. I now have an Ole 1996 1100GS that isn't too bad either! Thanks for sharing!

[Clark White]

So it seems like a lifetime ago since I updated this, but I just came to the realization that it's only been 4 days. Clay once again changed his plans, this time to meet us in San Carlos on Thursday rather then Wednesday, which was ok since I could then go Diving Thursday morning (Forrest went snorkeling). I took the GoPro with me on the dives, but turns out it looses all ability to focus underwater, so the video's really aren't worth the trouble of uploading. Clay never showed (big surprise at this point right?) saying instead that he would meet us in Mazatlan yesterday...you can guess how that went. In any case, we had a rather late start leaving San Carlos Friday morning as we really weren't in a big hurry and thought we had all day to get to Los Mochis. We had breakfast and last internet check at the marina before finally hitting the road around 1030am. The ride was good, but it took much longer then we had planned, and the tolls were beginning to suck us dry. We stopped for a late lunch of bean and cheese burritos we made on the spot from stuff we had picked up in San Carlos; it was delicious!

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-4jwFqvm/0/L/GOPR0282-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673503389&k=4jwFqvm&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-FpQDnxg/0/L/GOPR0283-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673503593&k=FpQDnxg&lb=1&s=A)

From there we continued south to Los Mochis where we stayed the night.
Riders eye view with the GoPro
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-65h39Wd/0/L/GOPR0284-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673503741&k=65h39Wd&lb=1&s=A)

Some scenery
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-63NBtBM/0/L/GOPR0288-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673503918&k=63NBtBM&lb=1&s=A)

We ended up taking much longer then planned to get there, so we pulled into town at dusk, and not wanting to ride around in the dark we took the first hotel we could find, which claimed to have internet and good security. Turns out, the security part was right, but the internet only worked if we sat on the ground outside the main office, and only for about 5min at a time; as consolation they gave us the jacuzzi sweet. Given as sore as we were, we put the jacuzzi to good use (they were a little concerned that we were not concerned about only having one bed...I'm sure the remains of a bubble bath in the jacuzzi didn't help their perception any in the morning!) After a decidedly heterosexual night, we left Los Mochis at the lazy hour of 9am and picked up breakfast at a taco stand at the first money suck (toll) of the day.

Un carne y un puerco!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-gXDQdj3/0/L/GOPR0303-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1672666043&k=gXDQdj3&lb=1&s=A)

Drinks came from the vender next door
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-sGkCFG2/0/L/GOPR0294-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1672666287&k=sGkCFG2&lb=1&s=A)

While getting our Coke, some crazy guy came by and started ranting about how he could give us a meal for only 2 pesos; or maybe it was 2 dolores? He couldn't remember...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-MkKGDVx/0/L/GOPR0296-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1672666426&k=MkKGDVx&lb=1&s=A)

The cook
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-wg7SGjT/0/L/GOPR0301-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1672666781&k=wg7SGjT&lb=1&s=A)

and her kitchen and helpers
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-zXCbNCJ/0/L/GOPR0297-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1672666551&k=zXCbNCJ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-5dzCbQp/0/L/GOPR0298-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1672666671&k=5dzCbQp&lb=1&s=A)

My thoughts on her cooking skills...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-czGQgNn/0/L/GOPR0304-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1672666889&k=czGQgNn&lb=1&s=A)

We had been warned that south of San Carlos the Federales didn't patrol and it was Cartel controlled, but as yet we hadn't seen any sign of this with every toll having a half dozen heavily armed Federales with multiple patrols in between. This all changed quite rapidly. We had gotten rather used to seeing military and police trucks with high canvas covers for troops, so when we saw a grey truck similarly equipped, we didn't think much of; only when they passed (and smiled and waived I might add) we realized they were by no means military or police of any government. Knowing the heavy police presence at tolls, and that there was one coming up, we began to fall back a bit so as not to be involved in the potential shoot out at the toll 1km ahead...only when we got there, there was no sign of Federales, Marines, or Army, and they gunmen payed their toll and drove on...we were out of the Federal Zone! Due to no fault of the militia, that was our last toll. We decided we had had enough of paying the same as a large truck, so we got off and took the scenic road instead. At one point we decided we wanted to take an even more back road, which lead to lots of aimless wandering around back roads, lots of confused locals, and then a few amused locals when we ended up coming back the same way realizing that we weren't going to get anywhere that way. The ride was absolutely beautiful, and as expected the small towns were much more interesting then on the main toll road. Shortly before Mazatlan we encountered a heavily defended military checkpoint, then an almost as heavily armed Police checkpoint right on the edge of town. I apologize for not having any pictures to show of this ride, but we were trying to make time so I didn't have time to pull out the camera (I think I made up for that today...) We pulled into old town and found a caffe with internet so we could do some research on where to stay the night. Initially we were thinking the famous Hotel Belmar with advertised prices of $300 pesos ($25USD?) for a beach front suite, but in reality they are $450 pesos, so we are now sitting in the Hotel Lerma just a few blocks away (highly recommended for anyone looking for a cheap, $150 pesos, place with good secure parking and nice room!)

Today we wandered around, studied maps, did time to distance calculations, explored, and took lots of pictures. Not too much to tell, so I will just get to the important stuff with a few captions where necessary.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tHCJ4xf/0/L/DSC2109-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673489864&k=tHCJ4xf&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-KBcHvWj/0/L/DSC2009-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673490155&k=KBcHvWj&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-W9GSJDw/0/L/DSC2112-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673490351&k=W9GSJDw&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-6bLgV8K/0/L/DSC2115-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673490565&k=6bLgV8K&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-2b2zVST/0/L/DSC2118-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673490793&k=2b2zVST&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-w4d7CB4/0/L/DSC2123-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673490918&k=w4d7CB4&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-VhSLCXk/0/L/DSC2144-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673491157&k=VhSLCXk&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rJp96Jp/0/L/DSC2150-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673491639&k=rJp96Jp&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-s7g9P2P/0/L/DSC2158-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673491837&k=s7g9P2P&lb=1&s=A)

The start of old town
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-H9WmDjJ/0/L/DSC2165-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673493428&k=H9WmDjJ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tQzbqkt/0/L/DSC2172-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673493684&k=tQzbqkt&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-bqL9vHb/0/L/DSC2177-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673493951&k=bqL9vHb&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-QCWVXhL/0/L/DSC2178-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673494119&k=QCWVXhL&lb=1&s=A)

Apparently the artest had had enough, she looks rather disheveled and obviously not in the mood to continue working
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-SLHhXgF/0/L/DSC2181-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673499656&k=SLHhXgF&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Clark White]

Jungle reclaiming a room...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-SN3g6RZ/0/L/DSC2188-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673500673&k=SN3g6RZ&lb=1&s=A)

This little girl was having a grand time dancing around in her chair right until I brought up the camera, then she was suddenly all business
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-XRFXGRc/0/L/DSC2193-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673501023&k=XRFXGRc&lb=1&s=A)

I love the abundance of flowers here!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-sckj8LC/0/L/DSC2195-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673501645&k=sckj8LC&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-8bLwXt6/0/L/DSC2199-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673502188&k=8bLwXt6&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-WnD8zRn/0/L/DSC2217-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673502944&k=WnD8zRn&lb=1&s=A)

And the color of all the buildings is great too!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-SXWXXwQ/0/L/DSC2196-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673501981&k=SXWXXwQ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rQCc6Jg/0/L/DSC2191-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673500865&k=rQCc6Jg&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-mNPKjJC/0/L/DSC2186-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673500231&k=mNPKjJC&lb=1&s=A)

I'm a great fan of good door pictures, so I decided to start playing with those too (not something I have actually studied, so I'm learning as I go)
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-6p85p4W/0/L/DSC2207-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673502457&k=6p85p4W&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-vpT4q9C/0/L/DSC2212-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673502658&k=vpT4q9C&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-JCM7NsK/0/L/DSC2213-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673502830&k=JCM7NsK&lb=1&s=A)

This poor little guy was sitting in a window, apparently convinced that something was going to come out of my camera and end it all...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-xCBjJXx/0/L/DSC2221-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673503056&k=xCBjJXx&lb=1&s=A)

Might have had something to do with the reason his house was bared and ringed with this stuff...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-7PQCJNv/0/L/DSC2208-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1673502551&k=7PQCJNv&lb=1&s=A)

Tomorrow morning we start early, headed for somewhere Guadalajara way, then on to Guanajuato where we will try to stop in and see a ranch family my dad knows, maybe get one of the younger girls to give us a tour of the historic silver town. We will see how that goes as they have no warning that we are coming and are a very modest family with no phone or internet with which to contact them.

Clark

[crawler#976]

Great photos Clark! I'll be keeping tabs on ya mate.

[zeke2.0]

Great photos, good writing. Keep it up!!

[defrag4]

nice shots, what kind of camera are you using? we loved old mazaltan, were heading out from mexico city tomorrow for the yucatan peninsula. will be following your trip now!

[Clark White]

Thanks all! One of my main reasons for this trip is to take pictures, and to get better at photography, so any suggestions anyone has are much appreciated! I'm using a Nikon D300, my main lens being a 16-85VR or an old school 50mm prime, but I also have a 70-300 that I bring out when there isn't anyone around to notice the huge lens.

We are in Guanajuato, Guanajuato right now. Lots more pictures to post, but no time right now. Will be at an ADVr's house tomorrow and will probably be able to update pictures then!

Clark

[Scott Brady]

Love it! A happy man

82407

[Clark White]

Hell yeah I was a happy man! Perfect weather, hammock strung from the bike, Tequila in my glass and a full belly!

Clark

[Clark White]

We left Mazatlan for Guadalajara Monday morning, which was a beautiful ride.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-TBTkC82/0/L/DSC2233-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677181493&k=TBTkC82&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-G84WJzC/0/L/DSC2234-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677181584&k=G84WJzC&lb=1&s=A)

We turned off on a few side roads and did some exploring, which was great for the view, the locals, and experiencing how the bikes handled off road fully loaded.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Vh766kj/0/L/DSC2236-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677181703&k=Vh766kj&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ChsXGzv/0/L/DSC2237-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677181819&k=ChsXGzv&lb=1&s=A)

Lunch was at a great little family place in the hills above Tepic. Their house specialty was asado, which sounded amazing so despite it being a little more expensive then tacos, we both indulged.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-pwQkVdS/0/L/DSC2241-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677181990&k=pwQkVdS&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-knHQSS9/0/L/DSC2244-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677182124&k=knHQSS9&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Dp8RL7z/0/L/DSC2242-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677182067&k=Dp8RL7z&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-VRN2fPV/0/L/DSC2249-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677182345&k=VRN2fPV&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-54ZfrMk/0/L/DSC2253-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677182489&k=54ZfrMk&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-BX94ZDB/0/L/DSC2255-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677182553&k=BX94ZDB&lb=1&s=A)

It was such a nice place that we ended up staying there almost two hours, which put us behind for getting to Guadalajara, but it was well worth the stay. From there we blew threw Tepic despite some horrendous traffic jams. After Tepic was a beautiful ride, and thanks to some more great views and trail exploring we were beginning to run rather late even for Tequila.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-34bMXQ9/0/L/DSC2266-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677182768&k=34bMXQ9&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-pd5NBnH/0/L/DSC2272-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1677182846&k=pd5NBnH&lb=1&s=A)

While stopped on some twisties for the above photos, we also ran into a German couple who have been on their bicycles touring around the EU, US, and Mexico for the last 8 months. They were really neat people, and I wish I could say I got a picture, but right as they rode up I slipped taking a picture of the scenery and tore my arm up pretty bad (picture in my smugmug for anyone interested, I'll spare the rest by not posting it here...) We weren't even close to making it to Tequila, so we just picked a random hotel that looked safe for the bikes and crashed for the night.

Tuesday morning we just hit the road and made time to Guanajuato. My Dad worked with a family that has a ranch south east of Guanajuato that we were told would be a great place to camp. They have no power, no phone, no internet, and no idea we were coming, so we wanted to get there in the afternoon so as not to ride up and surprise them when they were winding down for the night. We made amazing time getting through Guadalajara, but were less lucky getting through Zapatlanejo, which is a big fashion center, and the shoe capital of the world. Fromt here it was a pretty easy ride into Guanajuato, where we followed Dad's directions to a place to eat outside of town called Dona Chuy's.

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-hGkJwk6/0/L/DSC2281-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678201144&k=hGkJwk6&lb=1&s=A)

After dinner we followed the rest of the directions, which were spot on down to 1/10 of a km and found the ranch and Munoz family about 1km across the valley and 25km from Guanajuato. The rancher, Lupe, was out working in the mine near by, so we introduced our selves to his wife Clara and I did my best to explain to her (in my very broken spanish) that I was the son of the American geologist that her husband had worked with a few months prior, and that we were hoping to camp on their property. She understood, and said that Lupe would be back within half an hour and that we needed to talk to him, so we parked our bikes and hung out.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-CkHfxdG/0/L/DSC2286-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678201553&k=CkHfxdG&lb=1&s=A)

Lupe showed up right on time, and as soon as Clara told him who we were and what it was that we wanted, he got very excited. He came over, shook our hands (which was more like crushing our hands) and then slapped us on the back, which almost knocked us to the ground...did I mention he's a big strong guy who has spent is whole life ranching and working in the mines?
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-wVkwJHX/0/L/DSC2345-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679232443&k=wVkwJHX&lb=1&s=A)

Did I also mention he was very excited to have us there? We decided we would camp up by the mines the first night, but agreed we would stay with them at the ranch house Wednesday night. Dad had given directions to an old adit from the 1890's which I thought would be a great place to find a sleeping bag sized flat spot, but as it turned out the road leading up there was rather steep, loose, and windy. This combination, mixed with being exhausted from riding all day meant that when I went to start after a short break, Porky bucked, sputtered, stalled, then laid over for a nap. Forrest's KTM, not wanting to miss the opportunity and nudged on by a solid impact from Porky, laid over for as well. Ok fine, we'll camp further down the mtn. No pictures of this as it was dark by the time we made camp.

Wednesday morning we awoke late and rode back down to the ranch where Lupe and one of his daughters were working so that we could unload our bikes before heading in to explore Guanajuato. We wanted to stop at Dona Chuy's for breakfast, but they were packed. Dona Rosy next door was almost as good and empty.

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-j8zNN2t/0/L/DSC2294-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678202263&k=j8zNN2t&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-m97VHk5/0/L/DSC2295-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678202863&k=m97VHk5&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-35Nvz6D/0/L/DSC2296-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678203368&k=35Nvz6D&lb=1&s=A)

I'll only post my favorites of the day as there are many, most of them being of doors, which the town has an amazing plethora worthy of pictures. For those of you who don't know, Guanajuato is an old silver mining town built on a hill side, so for space saving reasons many of the roads are underground which is great fun to ride!

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-w9pGTh4/0/L/DSC2297-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678204060&k=w9pGTh4&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-vRVhsvL/0/L/DSC2303-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678206152&k=vRVhsvL&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rJ8pKvx/0/L/DSC2311-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678207774&k=rJ8pKvx&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-7RF6JVz/0/L/DSC2316-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678209499&k=7RF6JVz&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-QtzJ5B9/0/L/DSC2321-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678211212&k=QtzJ5B9&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-6bKrSXW/0/L/DSC2322-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678211851&k=6bKrSXW&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-QFW3BKQ/0/L/DSC2325-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678213984&k=QFW3BKQ&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Clark White]

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-fnkDkbk/0/L/DSC2327-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678214366&k=fnkDkbk&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ZpBcgBX/0/L/DSC2330-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678215271&k=ZpBcgBX&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-9Ck2mFr/0/L/DSC2331-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678215682&k=9Ck2mFr&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-hNQ4Tsw/0/L/DSC2333-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678216634&k=hNQ4Tsw&lb=1&s=A)

While walking around I saw this old guy with a photogenic face, so I walked over and said what I thought was, "can I take your picture?" Turns out what I said was, "tu pictura porfavor?" which translates as can I have you painting...NO clue what he thought of this, but he got very excited and said yes. Sadly, thinking that he had just agreed to get his picture taken I was not very fast about taking the shot. As soon as he realized what I wanted his toothy grin vanished and he got angry and started saying no. Too bad, I had already taken the picture, scowl or no!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-D3sSgsx/0/L/DSC2336-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678218263&k=D3sSgsx&lb=1&s=A)

The church doors. While taking this picture a little girl started to walk by, and realizing I was taking a picture she ducked and ran which I thought was funny. Forrest happened to be taking a picture in that direction anyway and managed to get a fabulous shot of her running, so hopefully I can get him to post that in here!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-pPr63Sb/0/L/DSC2338-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678218961&k=pPr63Sb&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-7gf9R2G/0/L/DSC2341-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1678220724&k=7gf9R2G&lb=1&s=A)

We returned to Dona Chuy's for dinner and then back to the ranch where Lupe was waiting for us so that he could make some amazing Cow Boy Coffee and chat with us about what we were doing.

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-2KWCzwk/0/L/DSC2370-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679233170&k=2KWCzwk&lb=1&s=A)

Lupe stoking the fire for the coffee
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ZccStjd/0/L/DSC2344-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679232353&k=ZccStjd&lb=1&s=A)

Clara washing clothes
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-QLGR3Pq/0/L/DSC2348-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679232596&k=QLGR3Pq&lb=1&s=A)

Their humble abode
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-BxTJ6DJ/0/L/DSC2350-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679232684&k=BxTJ6DJ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-KZcD3FZ/0/L/DSC2357-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679232841&k=KZcD3FZ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-N24bgCR/0/L/DSC2358-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679232946&k=N24bgCR&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-SFKDskX/0/L/DSC2375-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679233247&k=SFKDskX&lb=1&s=A)

We sat around the fire shed and chatted for a while. About the time coffee was ready Lupe asked if we would be interested in some bread, to which we said yes. Turns out that while they were excited about that answer, we felt horrible and utterly confused at what happened next. Rather then just walking to the house to get bread, everyone jumped up, piled in the truck, and before we realized what was going on they drove off into town to buy us some bread. We were extremely honored and horrified that this family, surely making very little money, would drive all the way into town to get us some bloody bread when we really weren't hungry, we just didn't want to be rude and say no to what we had assumed was home made bread in the house :Wow1: They returned about 30min later with a huge tray piled high with pastries...we then understood the excitement at our saying yes! We sat around for another few hours eating the delicious bread they were so proud of and drinking coffee, using one of my flashlights wedged in the roof for light. The girls slowly made their way to bed, leaving just Lupe who would get up every few minutes, remind us that there were more pastries to be eaten, and stoke the fire.

I managed to get this shot one of the times that he got up to put more wood on.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Mj7r7kw/0/L/DSC2379-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679233322&k=Mj7r7kw&lb=1&s=A)

Forrest and I were beginning to feel bad again, knowing that Lupe had to work early and we were keeping him up, but eventually he headed off to bed, leaving us to roll out our bags under the shed roof.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-C4Zzdwd/0/L/DSC2380-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679233418&k=C4Zzdwd&lb=1&s=A)

Thursday morning we awoke from a long night of barking dogs, and as we rolled up our bags Lupe and Clara came out and began making a feast of a breakfast for us.

We started with some more coffee

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Rjdx3tm/0/L/DSC2393-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679233515&k=Rjdx3tm&lb=1&s=A)

Then Clara began making tortillas
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-DTDN8sD/0/L/DSC2402-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679233591&k=DTDN8sD&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Z2QtNdr/0/L/DSC2423-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679234008&k=Z2QtNdr&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-wfRJgnM/0/L/DSC2424-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679234111&k=wfRJgnM&lb=1&s=A)

Lupe fried up some eggs
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-GVB43LC/0/L/DSC2426-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679234315&k=GVB43LC&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-36vtZBs/0/L/DSC2429-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679234425&k=36vtZBs&lb=1&s=A)

Just in case that wasn't enough, there were of course more pastries from the night before, and Forrest and I also contributed some honeydew mellon, papaya, and pineapple. It was an awesome breakfast, leaving us with happily stuffed bellies
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-szVSVFW/0/L/DSC2433-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679234520&k=szVSVFW&lb=1&s=A)

I took a few quick shots around the ranch houses, and then it was time to go as we needed to get to Mexico City at a reasonable hour.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-m25w7tB/0/L/DSC2406-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1679233700&k=m25w7tB&lb=1&s=A)

We made good time down to Mexico city where we were able to find Forrest a much needed rear tire and some other parts before following our next host, Lance, to his house in Cuernavaca, south of Mexico City last night.

Today has been a long, enjoyable, and frustrating day, but seeing as how we will now be here for the next few days while Porky gets a new clutch, I will have plenty of time to update all that at a later time. For now, it is 230am and I am totally exhausted.

Clark

[Streakerfreak]

You guys are getting some really great shots. Can't wait until you make it to South America.

[Clark White]

Thanks Phil! Lets hope I make it! So far we're three weeks in and only to Mexico City, despite our best efforts.

Clark

[Clark White]

Well we pulled into Antigua last night. I have lots of pictures to post, and plenty to tell, including spending the night in a soaking wet sleeping bag, riding all day in soaked gear, wiping out in a giant mud hole, and riding Mock Jesus through Guatemala on the best road south of the US border. Going to explore Antigua and the volcanos today, try to get parts at the BMW dealer tomorrow, my rear shock went out, so we'll see how that goes. I promise I will get pictures and writing updated as soon as I have time!

Clark

[trailsurfer]

Thanks for the trip updates! Fantastic pictures.

[mtnbike28]

You guys are doing a great job with the story telling and images! The photos always are teh struggle for me and you guys have hit a home run with yours! Thanks!

[Clark White]

Wow, I hadn't realized it had been so long since I had done a proper update! As it turned out, Porky doesn't need a new clutch, just a new cable.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-SZpgwDB/0/L/DSC2442-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682205428&k=SZpgwDB&lb=1&s=A)

That broke while we were riding over to Taxco, which is a really neat silver town, simular to Guanajuato, but even more mountainous. Despite the cable breaking on the way into town, I managed to coax the bike into a parking spot so that we could enjoy the town regardless. It's quite touristy, but also quite beautiful. Sadly, as per most of the places we've been, I don't have any good landscapes because it was just too hazy and you can barely make out the town. I do have some from in town though!

One of the first little restaurants we saw was covered in these flower...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-k272zGj/0/L/DSC2460-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682205283&k=k272zGj&lb=1&s=A)

As we walked into the Zocalo (central park or the like, depending on your translation), two little girls came running up asking if I wanted some gum for 10 pesos, so I told them gum and picture for 10 pesos...they thought that was a fabulous!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Fgkr4zP/0/L/DSC2448-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682205585&k=Fgkr4zP&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ffHntTT/0/L/DSC2449-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682205766&k=ffHntTT&lb=1&s=A)

A view from our beer drinking patio looking East. This is upwind from the edge of town, hence why it is clear.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-jXbCv53/0/L/DSC2452-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682205997&k=jXbCv53&lb=1&s=A)

A rather colorful store...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rv94S3Q/0/L/DSC2456-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682206270&k=rv94S3Q&lb=1&s=A)

Another shot of a little girl in town. She was apparently confined to the store and was not pleased to be there...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-HGLtLqQ/1/L/DSC2464-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682206552&k=HGLtLqQ&lb=1&s=A)

While walking around I found a perfect gift for Ustadza, but didn't have enough cash on hand and needed to find an ATM. While we were out looking for a functioning ATM, we got caught up in a parade celebrating the patron sait of the town? Or at least thats what I think it was all about.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-sXcqF3Q/0/L/DSC2469-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682206749&k=sXcqF3Q&lb=1&s=A)

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http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-f6nN7Cj/0/L/DSC2476-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682207216&k=f6nN7Cj&lb=1&s=A)

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Another girl on the square stuffing her face. For the record I'm not sexist, there were far more little girls then little boys.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-XbXKrfN/0/L/DSC2489-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682207507&k=XbXKrfN&lb=1&s=A)

The center of a hand made straw floor mat.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-spQgw6N/0/L/DSC2503-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682207746&k=spQgw6N&lb=1&s=A)

Church steeple. Apparently the son of a very rich miner wanted to be a priest, so the miner built the cathedral with his own money and the blessing of the Catholic Church in a record 10yrs. The interior was Godly with 24k gold plated everything, and different kinds of elaborately carved wood, etc. I tried to take some pictures but I didn't have a good lens for low light, so they were all way too blurry.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-mZnwJK7/0/L/DSC2508-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682207876&k=mZnwJK7&lb=1&s=A)

After having a good look at the town, we hit up a moto repair place on the way out of town to get a universal clutch cable installed. Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried driving a manual anything in heavy stop and go traffic and world class rude drivers with no clutch? Let me tell you, you are NOT missing anything!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-WnmgqjC/0/L/DSC2510-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682208019&k=WnmgqjC&lb=1&s=A)

It is a long confusing story of miss communication and lack of mechanics knowledge, but we were lead to believe that not only had the cable broken, but that the clutch was completely shot. With this news we rode out of town trying not to think of the impending delay waiting for a new clutch. With the air cooling it was also clearing up, so I was able to get this by putting the camera on the railing of the moto shop and taking a long exposure. Gives a good idea of the town and it's prize cathedral.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-NsppgGr/0/L/DSC2515-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682208374&k=NsppgGr&lb=1&s=A)

The next day we left my bike and Lance was nice enough to let me borrow his 1200GS (he rides the GSA) and we took off for Tepoztlan. Lances girl friend and her two daughters came along in the car, and they treated Forrest and I to a feast of local foods. I can't even begin the remember all the names, but I will caption them with the simpletons version;
Yes, those are grasshoppers, and they were delicious when all made up!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-PjnGtq7/0/L/DSC2871-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682303447&k=PjnGtq7&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rnjT5RG/0/L/DSC2896-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682304920&k=rnjT5RG&lb=1&s=A)

Squash flowers made into stir fry. Again, delicious!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-xVZJgxc/0/L/DSC2887-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682304708&k=xVZJgxc&lb=1&s=A)

And in our opinion, the best thing we had was the corn fungus! Trust me, it really was amazingly good, and I would eat it on a regular basis if I could find it!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-x97PHVm/0/L/DSC2874-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682303750&k=x97PHVm&lb=1&s=A)

The salsa was amazing as always, and I love how they make it from scratch and serve it in these bowls.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-2VXCbx3/0/L/DSC2883-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1682304256&k=2VXCbx3&lb=1&s=A)

Waiting for our food to arrive...
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Afterwards we wandered around the town for a while watching some local indian celebration, eating cotton candy, and looking around the mid 1500's Spanish cathedral before heading back to Lances for the night.

We took it easy Sunday, not even leaving Lances. On Monday we took the bike in to the local BMW expert who played with the clutch and said it was adjusted wrong, and that while the clutch is worn to the last 25% or so, it should make it to Argentina no problem. This was amazing news, as that meant we could leave Tuesday rather then Thursday or Friday, giving us more time to see the sights while getting to Panama in time to sail on the Independence. We agreed however, that since we had to ride through Puebla where the well known BMW mechanic was and who had all the needed parts, we would still stop in and get a second opinion, if he didn't like it he could go ahead and change the clutch starting right then. More good news that night, as Clay finally showed up, looking like the Beverly Hillbilly.
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http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-JDQGs26/0/L/DSC2527-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693032342&k=JDQGs26&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Clark White]

We stopped at the BMW dealer in Puebla, where the head mechanic took Porky for a spin and said the clutch was good to go. We made it as far as Alvarado for the night, just south of Veracruz. The next morning we headed off at a decent hour, had a good breakfast, and made it to Catazaja, just north of Palenque. Obviously Wednesday morning we spent the day exploring Palenque.
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http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-x8hkvh2/0/L/DSC2563-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693035865&k=x8hkvh2&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-jj7mgDm/0/L/DSC2564-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693036135&k=jj7mgDm&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-TdMN23b/0/L/DSC2565-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693036625&k=TdMN23b&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-WQ8HR4V/0/L/DSC2572-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693037238&k=WQ8HR4V&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-6tMG2WK/0/L/DSC2583-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693037565&k=6tMG2WK&lb=1&s=A)

We camped in the park that night, and all thought it would be real slick to sleep in the hammocks. Just a little foreshadowing here, Forrest looked at the starry sky and asked, "you don't think it's going to rain do you?" I of course looked at the same starry sky and said something to the effect of, "no way..." WRONG. All our gear was sitting out, strewn about where ever it had been convenient to set it, and Forrest had his tent up with no fly just as a place to store things during the day when we were gone. Well come about 1am? (I really don't have a clue) it started to sprinkle some, to which we all pulled the hammocks over our faces and went back to sleep. Well long story short it soon began to pour, and despite our best frantic efforts, the tent had standing water in it, our riding gear was wet, the sleeping bags were soaked, etc. I got lucky as I woke up faster and managed to get my tent set up and sleeping bag in it while it was only damp, but we had moved all our gear to a covered area, which as it turned out merely funneled the water through holes in the roof and straight onto all our gear. We got up in the morning, feeling rather depressed about the whole thing, and slowly slogged off towards the Guatemala border. It rained most of the way, and my rear suspension gave up the ghost just south of Palenque. We made it all the way to Paso Hondo where we spread everything out to dry, and stunk up the room something fierce with sweaty wet clothes, and I managed to find an internet caffe where I could order some anniversary flowers for Ustadza to be delivered the next day.

Saturday we had an easy border crossing and met a Brit, Alex, who is traveling around in a van with surf board. He was pretty excited to meet some people who spoke english, and is now a member of the group until San Salvador in the next day or two. With nice clean dry gear, I promptly dumped the bike in a mud hole going through some construction, coating the right side of the bike, and me, in heavy mud.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-hXZXSn4/0/L/DSC2604-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693081281&k=hXZXSn4&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-hzv9FJn/0/L/DSC2606-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693081500&k=hzv9FJn&lb=1&s=A)

A view of my dash and the scenery riding along CA1.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-WqKJQBL/0/L/DSC2600-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693081032&k=WqKJQBL&lb=1&s=A)

Forrest patiently waiting while I play with the camera.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-7kSfrWn/0/L/DSC2601-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693081166&k=7kSfrWn&lb=1&s=A)

We made it to Antigua in record time from the border, and had a blast riding there as CA1 is hands down the best road we have been on since we crossing into Mexico, and very windy through the mountains, enabling us to just rip along. I have very depressingly few pictures of Antigua as we went out for breakfast, which overall wasn't too photogenic, though I have a shot of my plate, which was eggs, chorizo, and beans.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-NMJ3vjV/0/L/DSC2621-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693081660&k=NMJ3vjV&lb=1&s=A)

After that we went back to the hotel and dropped off all our gear thinking we would just walk down to the corner for coffee. Turns out leaving the cameras was a huge mistake as we walked around the whole city, used up all our exploring time, and didn't get a single bloody picture of this beautiful city. Here are the few I took walking back from breakfast.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-2Ms29T3/0/L/DSC2632-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693081763&k=2Ms29T3&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-WwsWTNm/0/L/DSC2639-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693082003&k=WwsWTNm&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-CtHt8Mv/0/L/DSC2641-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693082275&k=CtHt8Mv&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Clark White]

These next two are from the hotel we stayed in in Antigua.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-mQTc2qc/0/L/DSC2642-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693083510&k=mQTc2qc&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-d6NQ9Bx/0/L/DSC2644-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693083806&k=d6NQ9Bx&lb=1&s=A)

We got the bright idea from reading other peoples trip reports that we would ride up and camp on the side of one of the volcanos. We were gong to follow the guide book to Santa Maria de Jesus, but the owner of the hotel said that wouldn't work so we followed his directions. It gets hard to explain, as we're not really sure where all we went, but 5hrs of rough off road riding (whith Alex following in a 2x4 van) we ended up in Santa Maria de Jesus, just 20min from Antigua. Completely lost and confused, we asked for directions from yet another local, who brought over an off duty Municipali (city cop) who said they had a safe place to park the bikes and van and we could camp in the central park. Turns out the safe parking was just in the park, and after a small bribe we felt almost safe enough to sleep...almost. It really never felt dangerous as no one was hostile and all our gear was in the van next to us, but with drunks and stray dogs everywhere we really didn't sleep well, and any hope of sleep ended when the shops began to open at 430am playing loud music (probably to chase us off...) I got up, loaded all my stuff form the van, and headed for the dealer in Guatemala City to get some maintenance done, hoping they would have parts in stock that weren't easily available in Mexico.

Volcan de Agua...the wrong bloody volcano as it turns out...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rFDvDw5/0/L/DSC2647-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693084040&k=rFDvDw5&lb=1&s=A)

Where the bikes were parked, Alex slept in his van.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-qzbS7WT/0/L/DSC2648-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693084365&k=qzbS7WT&lb=1&s=A)

And where I had slept on the ground, with Forrest and Clay in hammocks.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-kv98H3M/0/L/DSC2649-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1693080350&k=kv98H3M&lb=1&s=A)

Turns out Bavaria Motors has the fork seals, the proper clutch cable, and a complete rear suspension setup in stock, so I should have the bike good as new by noon tomorrow. The others did finally manage to climb their volcano, though only half the glory since it wasn't even the right volcano.

I apologize if my writing isn't as good, but I really wanted to get updated tonight since it has been so long, and I am pretty damn tired form not sleeping last night in the park. Don't plan on doing that crap again!

Tomorrow after I get my bike we are off for the El Sal border, which we will cross early AM Wed and make it as far as we can.

Clark

[Every Miles A Memory]

Awesome photos and story Clark! If you dont shave your beard soon, you're going to need an open face helmet....HAHA!!

[AFSOC]

Thanks for taking the time to keep us updated. Great shots! Enjoy yourself, stay safe.

[Clark White]

Awesome photos and story Clark! If you dont shave your beard soon, you're going to need an open face helmet....HAHA!!

Haha! My goal is to keep it until Ustadza sees me in Lima Peru, then I will probably be trimming everything that same day since she arrives in the AM.

Thanks for the complements everyone!

Clark

[Rexsname]

"Trimming everything" :Wow1::Wow1: Whoa! too much information!!!


REX

[Ruined Adventures]

How did I not find this thread sooner? Somehow I missed the fact that you're heading south...really enjoying your pictures. :lurk:

[Driver-Navigator]

Fun thread, thanks for all the pics and reports so far!

[clcoyle]

great photos and write-up.

Safe travels.

[Clark White]

Just a quick update. It has been a long few days and no internet or time to edit pictures to post now. My bike was repaired on time, and for $1056, which is an AMAZING price coming from a dealership, probably would have cost me at least twice that in the US or Mexico, and the dealer was AMAZING to deal with. I can't say enough good things about Bavaria Motors! After leaving there we all got quite sick, though thankfully only for one day, Forrest's engine has given up the ghost, Forrest has wreaked (he is fine, just sore and scratched bike), been ripped off at the El Sal/Honduras border, and had the Gringo run around for hours at every other border crossing we've had in the last few days. But we are finally in Costa Rica, in one piece, and we have good internet!

Clark

[mr_ed]

Awesome pics and narrative dude! Hope you guys are able to recucitate the Katoom!

[Ray Hyland]

Loving the thread Clark, and really fantastic shots.

[jds0912]

Sub'd. Great pictures! Looking forward to seeing some more shots in Costa Rica ect. I was there in 2006 for 6 monthes or so and it's such a great country. Best of luck, thanks for keeping us updated.

[Clark White]

Well I'm finally getting to another update! As I mentioned it had been a long few days getting to Costa Rica. We packed up and left the Hotel Spring in downtown Guatemala City to go pick up my bike. These were taken in the hotel court yard.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-TpbNhfM/0/L/DSC2650-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702324817&k=TpbNhfM&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-WXghK4w/0/L/DSC2654-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702325261&k=WXghK4w&lb=1&s=A)

When we arrived at the dealer my bike was ready and waiting, having been cleaned, polished, new fork seals, new rear suspension, new rear break pads, and a full inspection completed. We would have been ready to go, but the luggage rack on Forrest's KTM had cracked welds on both sides and was bent from his falling down on a trail. I talked to the manager and he called the dealer body shop and arranged for us to go over there to get his rack welded up. I went to pay for the service on my bike ($1056USD, which is half or a third what that would cost in the US!!!) but my card was denied. With flames shooting out my eyes I talked to the manager again and called Wells Fargo. The guy who answered made a comment about how fraud services obviously didn't notice the note about my traveling, but we then found it was all Ustadza's fault. The previous week had been our anniversary so I sent her flowers. Turns out that charge, which I had put on the same card, showed as being in Prescott AZ, so I could see how it was a little suspicious that I had a charge in Mexico, then a charge in AZ, then a charge in Guatemala...While I was working that out the manager saw my GPS and threw all the Central America maps on it for free, which has been a great help! We got the rack repaired at the body shop, and reinforced with steel bar at all the joints, and they then refused to charge us for the work (Forrest gave them some money anyway). I really can't say enough about Bavaria Motors, they are a real class A operation, and the first dealer that I have really enjoyed dealing with. We headed out late, but didn't make it very far. Clay had gotten sick that morning, but now Forrest and I were starting to feel down, and then with almost no warning we both became violently sick as well. We took an early hotel with a toilet seat (seats are actually a rare commodity down here!) and called it a night. I got exceptionally lucky and was only sick for that night. Forrest and clay were over the violent stuff, but didn't feel well for a few days after. We came across a bridge on the PanAm that was out, and appeared to have been so for quite a while. Talking to my Dad he warned us that a friend of his had died in Guatemala driving at night when he came across a missing bridge that hadn't been marked!

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-wn6sL7L/0/L/DSC2655-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702325682&k=wn6sL7L&lb=1&s=A)

We split ways with Alex, the Britt, at the El Sal border and made tracks as best we could. About half way through El Sal we were all starving and felt good enough to try food.

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-5hp95RG/0/L/DSC2662-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702324601&k=5hp95RG&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-TqWVgzR/0/L/DSC2664-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702326559&k=TqWVgzR&lb=1&s=A)

It was all amazing, but I unwittingly ordered fried calamari, which was a little too much and I wasn't able to finish it for risk of getting sick again. We stopped for the night just short of the Honduras border, planning on an early start the next day, hoping to get all the way to Costa Rica in one day. Well that plan went to **** right off the bat. We had gone about 30mi the next morning when Forrest's bike lost all power. We took the valve covers off and had a look, and it wasn't good.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ZGHpNz8/0/L/DSC2665-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702326878&k=ZGHpNz8&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-TWQmv7H/0/L/DSC2666-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702327196&k=TWQmv7H&lb=1&s=A)

You can see the bearing on the left isn't sitting centered like the one on the right.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-8jLD2xZ/0/L/DSC2667-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702327536&k=8jLD2xZ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rwtwM5C/0/L/DSC2668-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702327855&k=rwtwM5C&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-VDmRHQB/0/L/DSC2669-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702328128&k=VDmRHQB&lb=1&s=A)

The cam follower bearing had failed, causing the lifters to break and chewing up both the cam and the intake valves. We loaded the bike into the pickup of a guy who said he could help us across the border and arrange a truck on the other side. That sounded great, but turned out to be a horrible idea. He didn't expedite anything (it took us 4hrs to get into Honduras), and he tried to rip us off for a lot of money. We caught most of what he did, but it still ended up costing us $75USD/person (less then half what he was originally saying we owed him), which is still about twice what it should have, but we couldn't disprove anything else the guy was saying. Furious and ready to murder someone we refused the truck he had arranged to get the bike to Nicaragua, instead towing Forrest behind Clay so we could get out of there fast. Things were beginning to get ugly as the guy was saying we still owed him for his help and was starting to cause trouble, so we just took off and didn't look back. Forrest was having issues keeping the slack out of the tow line (I didn't want anything to do with towing long distance based on safety) and sure enough, about half way through Honduras Forrest got too much slack in the line. This wrapped around his front wheel, locked it up, and flipped him over the handle bars. Forrest walked away lucky, with his right hand and wrist torn up and sprained, and he tore a hole in the right shoulder of his jacket. He did some power sliding on his head, which didn't do his helmet any favors, but nothing was broken. They still refused to get a truck for his bike, so we continued with towing, making it to the Nicaragua border right at sunset. Hell bent on not having any helper this time, we asked everyone we talked to to make sure we only dealt with the officials. That failed as the guy with a badge who said he was the immigration official turned out to be a helper wanting to be payed for doing our paperwork. We made it pretty damn clear that he had lied to us saying he was not a helper, and that we had no spare cash (which was pretty much true!) and that we were NOT going to pay. He gave up and the Nicaragua side of the border went extremely well.

We stopped at the first hotel across the border, which turned out to be yet another mistake. The entire town was fowl, as were the people in it. The hotel cost $30USD, but the next one wasn't for a very long ways and towing at night was just too dangerous. We tried to get a beer, but one bar had a bartender of unknown genetics (we're not sure it was human, no less male or female) and smelled horrible. We went to the other bar in town and got beer, but then someone came in and warned us it was a drug house and not to drink anything that wasn't form a sealed container and to leave as soon as we were done...great. We tried to pay our C120 bill witha C200, but the guy vanished with our change. After about 10min we asked the pissy old lady who owned the place where our change was, and she went ballistic. She stormed out of the bar yelling and screaming something we couldn't understand, but within about 30sec we had our change in hand We went back to the hotel, which was a nasty dump of a place that hadn't been cleaned in god knows how long, fought off the cockroaches, and went to sleep.

The next morning we got a decent start and made good time across Nicaragua, which was a beautiful country.

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-324GP2w/0/L/DSC2672-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702328496&k=324GP2w&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-v99V2vJ/0/L/DSC2679-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702328834&k=v99V2vJ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-PCRDhXZ/0/L/DSC2681-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702329052&k=PCRDhXZ&lb=1&s=A)

We were following CA1, the PanAM highway, which over all was in really good condition, but it had some major issues as well. There was a 40km stretch where the pavement was gone and we had to work our way though the potholes (I do NOT envy Clay and Forrest towing through this!) We stopped for a lunch break, and had some amazing fish. The police were a little over bearing, stopping us 5 times, tried to give me a ticket for making a U turn ( I didn't, I turned into a business, stopped, bought something, then left) and then did give us a ticket for illegally passing (we have no idea where we had done this and are quite certain it was complete bull; but they had our licenses, so we had to pay up or we wouldn't get them back). Cost us $40 total, and we were now quite anxious to get the heck out of Nicaragua as well. The rest of the ride in the country was beautiful, and we stopped to take a break on lake Nicaragua.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-w7D3RLK/0/L/DSC2686-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702329352&k=w7D3RLK&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-RxcnPHZ/0/L/DSC2687-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702329547&k=RxcnPHZ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-pktPr2H/0/L/DSC2691-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702329886&k=pktPr2H&lb=1&s=A)

We crossed into Costa Rica at sunset again, and ran into a Sweed? heading north after 17mo in S. America on a 1200GS. I don't remember his name, but it was something like MitkaMike on ADV rider, I haven't been able to find him. He told us about a resort that had $5/night camp sites with good internet, but we were unable to find it, so we spent the night at Cabinas Santa Rita in La Cruz. It was a nice little place, very clean, and the owners were quite friendly. My only complaint is that it was rather expensive for our budget, $30USD again.

We looked up some people that Clay's Dad had grown up with in Minnesota and had an invite to their place in Brasilito, which is where we are now. They have a place right on the beach, and are being very helpful with getting Forrest the parts for his bike. The dealer in Costa Rica has them in stock, and they should be here tomorrow morning. In the mean time we have been wandering the beach, napping in the hammock, and watching the Super Bowl while eating amazing whole lobster and drinking the best Pina Colada's around.
Their swimming pool!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-86Cwk62/0/L/DSC2830-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702321625&k=86Cwk62&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-R43Wh59/0/L/DSC2835-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702321953&k=R43Wh59&lb=1&s=A)

My view as I write this...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tbsSxtH/0/L/DSC2837-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702322391&k=tbsSxtH&lb=1&s=A)

And the view while test driving one of their 1968 diesel Land Rover Safari with a Defender front end Range Rover drive line.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-d6kQS4R/0/L/DSC2838-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702322802&k=d6kQS4R&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-7bJdsMk/0/L/DSC2839-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702323335&k=7bJdsMk&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Qt7jRG8/0/L/DSC2842-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702323649&k=Qt7jRG8&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-HXbgJMd/0/L/DSC2848-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702323898&k=HXbgJMd&lb=1&s=A)

Last night we sat on the beach for sunset and drank a beer.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-XPhBJ2n/0/L/DSC2853-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702324092&k=XPhBJ2n&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-fjZKdTH/0/L/DSC2857-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702324361&k=fjZKdTH&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Clark White]

I spent the other morning taking pictures of the humming birds as they came and went from the feeder on the patio;
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-FCkp9QH/0/L/DSC2730-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702358312&k=FCkp9QH&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-TLwcVsx/0/L/DSC2778-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702358678&k=TLwcVsx&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-fm3rKJM/0/L/DSC2781-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702358854&k=fm3rKJM&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-kmvDBHZ/0/L/DSC2782-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702359003&k=kmvDBHZ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-w4CR9qr/0/L/DSC2784-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702359126&k=w4CR9qr&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-BFNHHgc/0/L/DSC2800-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702359293&k=BFNHHgc&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-chRG7jX/0/L/DSC2823-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1702359508&k=chRG7jX&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Streakerfreak]

Damn man, your trip is getting pretty exciting.

[Clark White]

Yeah, it's having it's moments! I'm really hoping things go more smoothly from here, and that I will be in Equador this time next week. I'm probably going to skip Columbia for time reasons, since I need to meet Ustadza, James, and another girl in Peru in exactly a month from now. Can't afford any more major delays since we are already a couple weeks behind.

Clark

[Clark White]

Forrest's parts came in no problem Wed mid afternoon, and despite it taking a few hours longer then they had thought the bike is up and running great. We left Brasalito Thursday morning at 7am, which was an hour later then we had wanted, but no big deal. We didn't make it far before Forrest found a place he thought he could get his front tire changed, as it was beyond bald (and he couldn't have done this the 4 days we sat there with no parts?) so Clay and I had breakfast while waiting for him to mount his tire backwards. The little town where I spent a pair of summers was only 6km off the highway, so we made a detour up to Las Juntas to have a look. I only vaguely remember things, and we didn't have time to explore and look for details I do remember, but it was still cool to see it after 23yrs!

Town park
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-pcQZTR7/0/L/DSC3078-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706486190&k=pcQZTR7&lb=1&s=A)

One of the local girls thought the sun was just amazing for sunning her self...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-vQzMXts/0/L/DSC3084-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706486285&k=vQzMXts&lb=1&s=A)

Turn of the century steam engine from one of the old mines near by.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ZvqFFMq/0/L/DSC3087-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706486460&k=ZvqFFMq&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-LbgdxkN/0/L/DSC3089-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706486612&k=LbgdxkN&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-GFZrBHh/0/L/DSC3090-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706486730&k=GFZrBHh&lb=1&s=A)

I don't remember anything like this in 1989!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-GHxxLrf/0/L/DSC3091-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706486835&k=GHxxLrf&lb=1&s=A)

I think we lived in the house on the left? I'm sure my Dad will correct me when he sees these, but I'm pretty sure there used to be a barbed wire fence on the right where the rot iron fence is now. I lost control of my bicycle and went into it, tearing my side wide open...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tT4NXm7/0/L/DSC3093-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706487001&k=tT4NXm7&lb=1&s=A)

Maybe this is where we lived? It is across the street, behind me when I took the above photo. Pretty typical house there, with flower and bright paint (not shown is the huge fence that was also pretty common). The lady living there came out as soon as she saw me put the camera through the fence, so I explained I thought her flowers were very beautiful and she got a big smile, telling me to take as many pictures as I wanted!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-pRhBdS7/0/L/DSC3095-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706487196&k=pRhBdS7&lb=1&s=A)

Flowers in the church/hospital garden
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-P7g9jgd/0/L/DSC3099-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706487338&k=P7g9jgd&lb=1&s=A)

Church bell tower
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tmPSzVr/0/L/DSC3100-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706487508&k=tmPSzVr&lb=1&s=A)

We made good time and crossed into Panama right at sunset, and then another 65km. The border crossing was amazing, being the simplest, most straightforward crossing we have had. We had been told there was a nice camp ground that was well signed at 60km, but that was no to be. While asking around for the campground a local guy came up and talked to Forrest, mentioning that we could camp in his back yard...$10 later we had a great place to spend the night with no more riding! Actually got a proper start this morning, leaving at 6am. We stopped for a late breakfast, but the lady running the place pretty much ignored us, so we took off. I'll leave out the details, but Forrest and I have had our differences, so I left the two of them behind at that point and continued on my own. Made great time riding solo after that, with an amazing chicken breakfast from a guy who learned english through the mail; and by mail he meant snail mail sent from Panama City, not e-mail and downloadable lessons...he spoke English impeccably! I made it all the way to Portobelo by about 1230 and was able to spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing and exploring the town, taking lots of pictures. For those who may not know, Portobelo is full of amazing history. From the history signs in town: For nearly a century a majority of the worlds wealth came through this city from S. America, where it was loaded onto Spanish Galions. The customs office that handled this great wealth still stands today;

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tGWRD2t/0/L/DSC3126-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706488864&k=tGWRD2t&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Cx5HKbW/0/L/DSC3127-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706488952&k=Cx5HKbW&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-gpH8xgD/0/L/DSC3130-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706489042&k=gpH8xgD&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-4qkP73c/0/L/DSC3131-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706489131&k=4qkP73c&lb=1&s=A)

The old hospital, which was staffed with no more then 4 munks at a time to service the entire port
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-sFN2Zvp/0/L/DSC3104-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706487592&k=sFN2Zvp&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-zs3KLBH/0/L/DSC3107-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706487672&k=zs3KLBH&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-dx35Rnj/0/L/DSC3108-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706487753&k=dx35Rnj&lb=1&s=A)

Bastion turret
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Bgtb2Hn/0/L/DSC3109-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706487859&k=Bgtb2Hn&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-8dP3dF3/0/L/DSC3119-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706488498&k=8dP3dF3&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-n85w57m/0/L/DSC3138-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706489570&k=n85w57m&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-4rL6ftC/0/L/DSC3110-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706488014&k=4rL6ftC&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-zXP59Xp/0/L/DSC3112-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706488223&k=zXP59Xp&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ZXSH4sq/0/L/DSC3114-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706488311&k=ZXSH4sq&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-jJkSTgR/0/L/DSC3116-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706488385&k=jJkSTgR&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-T7rCZzB/0/L/DSC3122-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706488761&k=T7rCZzB&lb=1&s=A)

Clark White

[Clark White]

Continuing...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-gZsr3vR/0/L/DSC3137-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706489411&k=gZsr3vR&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-n85w57m/0/L/DSC3138-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706489570&k=n85w57m&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-H8Zs6kx/0/L/DSC3147-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706490199&k=H8Zs6kx&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tnrWt3d/0/L/DSC3149-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706490474&k=tnrWt3d&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-7fjvGjC/0/L/DSC3154-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706490639&k=7fjvGjC&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ZjHQvPR/0/L/DSC3155-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706490890&k=ZjHQvPR&lb=1&s=A)

The remains of one of the castles that was blown up by an English Privateer who's name I can not remember or find on google
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-K7BZDbX/0/L/DSC3166-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706491529&k=K7BZDbX&lb=1&s=A)

Part of the castle wall
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-SqtDP47/0/L/DSC3143-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706489976&k=SqtDP47&lb=1&s=A)

I hadn't really thought about this as I was taking the picture, but this is a perfect example of all of Latin America...amazing beauty, with amazing filth
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-k66TVqW/0/L/DSC3142-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706489774&k=k66TVqW&lb=1&s=A)

This entire town is a perfect example of just that. It is a beautiful town, with amazing history and decent tourist trade, yet the turrets of the fortifications all wreak of urin and every corner that doesn't have someone actively living in it looks like this;
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-4QB7vGL/0/L/DSC3167-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706491643&k=4QB7vGL&lb=1&s=A)

Obviously that doesn't apply to the vast areas of Latin America that have very few people living in them, but anywhere there are people, this is what I see.

This awesome Rover is parked in town, but I couldn't find the owners; it has an Aussi plate from Victoria
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-qjrTS8X/0/L/DSC3160-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706491030&k=qjrTS8X&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-bsNRFDL/0/L/DSC3161-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706491180&k=bsNRFDL&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-RKqQgFv/0/L/DSC3162-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706491339&k=RKqQgFv&lb=1&s=A)

I saw on Face Book that Clay's engine has gone out again (second time this trip) and they are somewhere short of Panama City, not sure what the actual problem is. I am off to Panama City to arrange shipping of the bike and I to either Columbia or Equador tomorrow morning. I would really like to see Columbia, but since I need to make time to Lima anyway, I don't think I will have time to see and enjoy Columbia and it's people, in which case going straight to Equador and having fewer miles to ride in a limited time to Lima might make more sense. I can't wait to see Ustadza, James, and Heidi!

Clark White

[Streakerfreak]

The remains of one of the castles that was blown up by an English Privateer who's name I can not remember or find on google
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-K7BZDbX/0/L/DSC3166-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1706491529&k=K7BZDbX&lb=1&s=A)




Captain Morgan man!

So you're not sailing now? Hope everything works out with you and Forrest.

[Clark White]

Captain Morgan man!

So you're not sailing now? Hope everything works out with you and Forrest.

Thats what I thought to, but I read up on his taking of the town and it says he left the town and it's fortifications completely intact, nothing about blowing up the whole bloody castle?

No boat for me. It sucks, I would much rather sail then fly, but the timing isn't going to work out since the Independence canceled on us and we had missed the other sailings that would have still put me in Peru on time since we thought we would be sailing on the Independence.

Clark

[Every Miles A Memory]

Nice update Clark! Be safe while traveling alone! Like the close-ups added to the mix

[AFSOC]

Thanks for the updates, pics look great.

[ExpediT-100n]

Amazing photos and it looks like you are making good time.

Thanks for sharing!

Kevin

[Clark White]

Thanks all! I pay my $902 for the bike tomorrow morning and leave it with the shippers before flying to Bogota tomorrow afternoon. The bike is "guaranteed" to meet me at the airport at 8am Tuesday...we'll see how well that guarantee goes, but I don't expect any major delays. With any luck I will be headed south my mid day Tuesday, riding hard to see if I can catch Radioman from ADVrider and ride to Quito with him.

Clark

[MattScott]

Thanks all! I pay my $902 for the bike tomorrow morning and leave it with the shippers before flying to Bogota tomorrow afternoon. The bike is "guaranteed" to meet me at the airport at 8am Tuesday...we'll see how well that guarantee goes, but I don't expect any major delays. With any luck I will be headed south my mid day Tuesday, riding hard to see if I can catch Radioman from ADVrider and ride to Quito with him.

Clark

$902 for air freight? That's seriously not bad. You'd spend that splitting a container + expenses while you're sitting around.

[Clark White]

$902 for air freight? That's seriously not bad. You'd spend that splitting a container + expenses while you're sitting around.

No sir! I also had to pay $419 for me, but I would have to pay that for the container as well...would have been nice to save the $400 and drink rum on a sail boat though!!! Schmucks.

Funny story of the day; when I went to the Aduana this morning the window was in full sunlight and I was already sweating from running around. I looked around and there was no one else there, so I decided screw it. I played the dumb American and waltzed right on in their office rather then going to the window, and then pretended like I had no idea what they were saying when they told me to go out, instead just handing them my papers...annoyed and giving me evil looks, they got my paperwork all done, stamped, signed in triplicate, copied, and off I went in less then 15min...sometimes I really like the stereotypical view of Americans being stupid and having no idea what is going on...if only they knew!

Clark

[Streakerfreak]

Funny story of the day; when I went to the Aduana this morning the window was in full sunlight and I was already sweating from running around. I looked around and there was no one else there, so I decided screw it. I played the dumb American and waltzed right on in their office rather then going to the window, and then pretended like I had no idea what they were saying when they told me to go out, instead just handing them my papers...annoyed and giving me evil looks, they got my paperwork all done, stamped, signed in triplicate, copied, and off I went in less then 15min...sometimes I really like the stereotypical view of Americans being stupid and having no idea what is going on...if only they knew!


Clark

:clapsmile

[Clark White]

Well the bike didn't make it. It took most of the day, and a couple miles of walking around in the sun and pissing people off to get a straight answer, but they finally called Panama and confirmed it was still there (they had been telling me they didn't know where it was, which was an answer I refused to accept). New schedule is noon tomorrow...we'll see...

Todays funny story; while looking for the place where my bike was supposed to be I got lost (I followed the signs, my bad...) and wound up walking towards a construction zone. The website mentioned construction so I just walked right on it thinking maybe I was in the right area after all. Turns out I was way off, and was actually in a restricted zone and wandering around the edge of the active tarmac. Rather then immediately turn around and arouse suspicion I marched on like I was on a mission from God. Lots of people watched me, and poked their neighbor asking who I was, but only one guy actually tried to stop me. When he approached and tried to question what I was doing, I simply said, "buenos" and kept right on marching. He stared at me with his mouth open but let me pass. No one ever actually stopped me despite being well behind the security line having not gone through security, and I walked all the way around the airport until I finally found something that said Girag Air...gotta love the airport security down here!

Clark

[Streakerfreak]

Well the bike didn't make it. It took most of the day, and a couple miles of walking around in the sun and pissing people off to get a straight answer, but they finally called Panama and confirmed it was still there (they had been telling me they didn't know where it was, which was an answer I refused to accept). New schedule is noon tomorrow...we'll see...

Todays funny story; while looking for the place where my bike was supposed to be I got lost (I followed the signs, my bad...) and wound up walking towards a construction zone. The website mentioned construction so I just walked right on it thinking maybe I was in the right area after all. Turns out I was way off, and was actually in a restricted zone and wandering around the edge of the active tarmac. Rather then immediately turn around and arouse suspicion I marched on like I was on a mission from God. Lots of people watched me, and poked their neighbor asking who I was, but only one guy actually tried to stop me. When he approached and tried to question what I was doing, I simply said, "buenos" and kept right on marching. He stared at me with his mouth open but let me pass. No one ever actually stopped me despite being well behind the security line having not gone through security, and I walked all the way around the airport until I finally found something that said Girag Air...gotta love the airport security down here!

Clark


There have been some bad stories about Girag Air and taking days, weeks, sometimes months for the bike to ship. Hopefully, that's not the case here.

[mervifwdc]

I'm loving the Photos!

Over this side of the pond, we talk about people with thick necks, and I thought I was pretty good at it. I'm very impressed with your "todays funny story" bits, just goes to show, all you have to do is try.

Merv.

[Clark White]

I'll try to post up photo's and give a full update tonight, but just a quick one for now. The bike made it, but I didn't get out of customs until 630 last night so spent another night here. Today I ended up going to the gold museum and getting laundry done, so I wont actually leave Bogota until tomorrow morning.

Clark

[crawler#976]

Glad your bike made Clark!

Looking forward to your next report!

[Clark White]

Well since I finally got the bike, I have my USB cables and got pictures uploaded and edited, so I can do a full update.

I can't for the life of me remember the name of this lady, but she is currently riding her bicycle from Ushuaia to where ever in the U.S. she ends up. Slightly humbled, we started talking about our various trips, at which point she humbled me to the extreme. She has peddled the length of Africa, both directions, crossing the Sahara by pushing the bike through the sand. After that, she decided it would be fun to see Magadan...sorry Scott, she has you beat too. She peddled from her home in Europe all the way across Russia on the Road of Bones, then down through Asia to Vietnam, where she flew to Santiago de Chile...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-mmMm3gr/0/L/DSC3172-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714255901&k=mmMm3gr&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-dzv5FWs/0/L/DSC3176-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714256077&k=dzv5FWs&lb=1&s=A)

I dropped the bike off with Girag Monday morning as planned and caught my flight to Bogota. I had heard from another moto guy that the Hostel Fatima was a good place to stay, so I grabbed a taxi and made it here with no problems. They have a bar restaurant here, so I got a Mojito (I think the best I have ever had, made completely from scratch), and some dinner.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-5Msc3jj/0/L/DSC3181-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714256149&k=5Msc3jj&lb=1&s=A)

I was guaranteed the bike would be there at 0800 Tuesday morning, but I took my time and called around 1030...they didn't know where the bike was and said to call back Wed morning. Well screw that, I jumped the buss and went out there to raise hell in person. After much ordering around and arguing, they finally agreed to call Panama and confirmed the bike was still there, not lost. Ok, noon Wed was the new time. I took the bus back to old town and walked around seeing the sites and taking some pictures.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-zVsDH2F/0/L/DSC3194-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714256274&k=zVsDH2F&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-mk4WSWC/0/L/DSC3195-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714256413&k=mk4WSWC&lb=1&s=A)

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Wednesday morning I took my time getting up, packed my stuff and caught a taxi back to the airport. I found my way to a new office (apparently I was at the wrong one the day before?) and they said the flight was delayed due to weather, they would have it by 1400. I wasn't going to pay for a taxi anywhere, so I went out and sat in the loby. Turns out I wasn't the only one waiting for my bike! Attila was sitting there waiting for his 650GS. He was in the know, and apparently the bike didn't make it Tuesday due to mechanical problems with the 272. How did they not know this here? We started talking and three more guys arrived from Honduras, riding two Harley's and a 1200GS. It took for ever, and we didn't clear customs until 1830, so we just returned to Fatima. This morning Atila and I got up, but needing to do laundry we dropped it off at the front desk and went to the Museo de Oro (Gold Museum). It's a whole 3000 pesos ($2) and it is amazing. I thought the Spaniards had destroyed almost all, and looters the rest. Granted, what is in the museum is a tiny portion of what had been, but WOW. All authentic, no replicas...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-dNJPtWH/0/L/DSC3252-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714257468&k=dNJPtWH&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-FnJcfQN/0/L/DSC3253-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714257646&k=FnJcfQN&lb=1&s=A)

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Originally the museum started small, and back when Bogota was a much less friendly place, so all the gold was stored in a vault with an impressive door.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-3h9zMxj/0/L/DSC3267-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714259053&k=3h9zMxj&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Xfc9TwG/0/L/DSC3268-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714259133&k=Xfc9TwG&lb=1&s=A)

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Afterwards we walked around some and took a look in the Emerald Trade Center. They had some amazing jewelry there, but holy crap is it all expensive!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-CRv5hQS/0/L/DSC3273-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714259302&k=CRv5hQS&lb=1&s=A)

With a bad case of sticker shock we walked across the street and got some lunch, which was amazing
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-CqLWs6j/0/L/DSC3276-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1714259424&k=CqLWs6j&lb=1&s=A)

We got back to the hotel around 1400 and the laundry was done, but we decided by the time we repacked everything and headed out (Atila north, myself south) we wouldn't make many miles, so one more night here at Fatima. Not going to get a real early start as rush hour begins at 0600, and we have been assured from the people here that if we leave at 0900 when it's ending, we will be able to move so much faster that we will get as far as if we left at 0600...guess I'll just have to sleep in tomorrow!

Clark

[Clark White]

Also, I will get pictures tomorrow since I didn't think about it today, but we have the bikes parked in a hallway, leaning against the wall on the stairs...was fun getting them in, should be an experience getting them out!

Clark

[Clark White]

Well I'm learning it's rather hard to take pictures, edit them, and do a writeup while on the road. This is even more true when you are riding with someone as you hang out and drink beer and do lots of cool stuff that completely prevents you from updating anything. I have this afternoon off though, so here it is! While at the Hostel Fatima I met a couple other riders and a photographer. Atilla is an American who lives in Quito, Ecuador and is riding his F650GS down from California. Dina is the photographer, and Alex and David are riding together (Alex is Davids guide) to Ushuaia, in that order left to right with me in the background.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-tpZNQt4/0/L/DSC3281-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1721994965&k=tpZNQt4&lb=1&s=A)

Getting the bikes out of the hallway ended up being much easier then I had expected it to be. We had two people in front lifting and pulling on the crash bars and both Atilla and I came right out with no problems.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-q4X5zW4/0/L/DSC3284-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1721994898&k=q4X5zW4&lb=1&s=A)

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Atilla and I rode to Honda together and had lunch, but then he headed north to Medellin while I went west to Manizales. The ride over the mountain was spectacular, with a sunset while cresting at my highest point yet this trip, 3,700m (~12,100ft).
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Z52ffzz/0/L/DSC3294-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1721995391&k=Z52ffzz&lb=1&s=A)

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Yes, that is snow!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-BckCXW8/0/L/DSC3306-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1721995444&k=BckCXW8&lb=1&s=A)

I pulled into Manizalles rather late and had a hard time finding a hotel with safe parking for Porky, so I wound up at a much more expensive hotel then I had planned, but it was awesome to have a proper hot shower, good internet, and a good bed. The next morning I got up but didn't get an efficient start, what with the massive breakfast from the hotel and having to find new batteries for the SPOT. Once I did get moving though, the ride was simply amazing. I made it all the way to Pasto, riding through some of the most beautiful mountains I have ever seen.
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I stayed in a cheap little place recommended by a local Policia, and the next morning I got a good start for Quito. I tried to stop and see las Lajas, but being a holiday and a Sunday, the entire area was more packed then a NY subway, so after much screwing around just trying to find a place to stretch my legs, I said screw it and kept on for Quito. The border crossing was very simple and took less then an hour from the time I pulled up to the Colombian side to the time I rode south into Ecuador. The scenery continued to amaze, and the towns and villages were even cleaner and generally friendlier then in Colombia, which is saying something because Colombia was awesome.
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I made it to Quito before sunset and met up with Mark (Radioman on ADVrider) and Young James (known as Young because everyone he rides with is older then he). They have been on the road for 8 and 11mo respectively, and are planning on going all the way around the world. Originally I had planned to meet up with them and spend all of Monday in Quito changing Porky's oil and putting my feet up while visiting, but they needed to get to Cuenca to help another guy, Brian, who was having trouble with some bad vibration on his Wee-Strom. We headed south for Cuenca despite the rain and rode like hell, but that barely got us 2/3 of the way. The roads were crap, it was 5c and pouring rain, and being a holiday every town had the highway closed down for parties. We met a friendly family at one gas stop who wanted pictures of our bikes, and thought it was just the greatest thing in the world when we told them to climb up and sit on them!
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We finally called it an early day in Alausi since we knew there was no way we were making to Cuenca and we were all frozen. Like all the other towns, they were having a big celebration, so we had some dinner in a nice little place on the edge of town and then I wandered around the crowd taking some pictures of the locals.
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Radioman with San Pedro in the background
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Still raining while we ate dinner
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Clark

[Every Miles A Memory]

That last installment was well worth the wait Clark. Great to hear you got the bike back and are have met up with some fellow Americans

[Clark White]

Some of the locals I took pictures of
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-KxXPnkd/0/L/DSC3367-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1721996990&k=KxXPnkd&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-fmJGMRd/0/L/DSC3392-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1721997438&k=fmJGMRd&lb=1&s=A)

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The mud flinger
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Tuesday morning we had a decent though small breakfast at the hotel and made a beeline for Cuenca.

Alausi as we were leaving town
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The next town to the south with some amazing twisties
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-ZhHXBHJ/0/L/DSC3453-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722188510&k=ZhHXBHJ&lb=1&s=A)

Radioman while stopped looking at the twisties
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-k3gSBTL/0/L/DSC3456-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722188633&k=k3gSBTL&lb=1&s=A)

Radioman caught a good shot of me enjoying the view during the same stop...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-JfW8ZKw/0/L/DSC08629-M-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722816092&k=JfW8ZKw&lb=1&s=A)

We made it to Cuenca by early afternoon despite many stops to play with vidos and sight seeing. After a little work Young James found that the problem with the Wee was that somehow it had water in the tire, but not wanting to change the tires multiple times they just went ahead and put an older tire on anyway to make sure, problem solved. Brian will remount the new tire in Lima when it can be done with a machine rather then small wrenches. We rode around town and got heavily involved in the celebrations, picking up bags of water balloons and silly string and riding around ambushing the unsuspecting locals who were all sitting on the street and roof tops unsure if we were apart of the city wide water fights or not. Everyone was involved, from little kids barely big enough to pick up the water balloons to grandma and grandpa. The look on their faces was fantastic when the 4 of us would ride up looking all innocent, then suddenly start lobbing water balloons and spraying silly string at them before racing off. For the record, the ambushes only worked a few times, on any second pass at a group they exacted revenge using 5 gallon buckets of water. The last group we tried to hit had seen us coming, and our disastrous attempt to ambush them can only be described as Custer's last stand, with Young James getting hit by a half dozen buckets of water at once. Hands down, that was some of the most fun any of us have ever had on a bike, and the whole town thought it fantastic that these Gringo's would get involved like that! Radioman had a waterproof camera along, so he took some pictures and has a good write up of the water wars here; http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18048554&postcount=2347

Brian left early yesterday in a hurry to get to the beach, while the three of us slept in and wandered around town until about noon. While walking around I took some more photos of the locals. Some known with permission, and some candidly which isn't too effective bing a twice their size white boy with a big camera.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-KnCzSRf/0/L/DSC3461-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722188725&k=KnCzSRf&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-hHm2XRJ/0/L/DSC3465-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722188834&k=hHm2XRJ&lb=1&s=A)

I thought this little boy was great, sitting on a Policia moto
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-3B5DmzF/0/L/DSC3479-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722188954&k=3B5DmzF&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Gbt3DTg/0/L/DSC3478-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722829168&k=Gbt3DTg&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-LGRntk5/0/L/DSC3529-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722189034&k=LGRntk5&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-p74HzdT/0/L/DSC3530-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722189176&k=p74HzdT&lb=1&s=A)

Church door down town, one of my favorites this trip
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-hqN47Tb/0/L/DSC3550-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722828929&k=hqN47Tb&lb=1&s=A)

Church tower in the center of town. It is a massive multi block cathedral listed on the UNESCO list
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-RrV225H/0/L/DSC3488-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722829288&k=RrV225H&lb=1&s=A)

Another local who thought it was the coolest thing to sit on Young James bike
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-wccZGDR/0/L/DSC3459-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722829097&k=wccZGDR&lb=1&s=A)

Ice cream was popular, and was available on every street corner
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-GSxT4V4/0/L/DSC3526-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722829546&k=GSxT4V4&lb=1&s=A)

I had found that the foot peg brackets for my luggage racks had cracked on both sides, and the lock box my rear Pelican was mounted to had cracked it's welds, so we wen't back to the Hostel and Young James and I changed out oil and then I dropped my bike off at a welding shop next door to have some new brackets made and the box welded up. We then went out and had some amazing pasta for dinner, some ice cream for desert, and then called it a night.

One of the MANY churches in town lit up while we were walking back to the hostel
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-JDQBhpn/0/L/DSC3595-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1722189256&k=JDQBhpn&lb=1&s=A)

I picked up the bike today with 4mm steal brackets in place of the 2mm AL brackets and the lock box all welded up. I could have left today, but decided it sounded nicer to just sit here, have some stickers made for the bike, and get caught up with photo's, writing, and relaxing. Off tomorrow for northern Peru

Clark

[Clark White]

That last installment was well worth the wait Clark. Great to hear you got the bike back and are have met up with some fellow Americans

Thanks! I forgot to put it in the post, but Radioman is an American traveling around the world on his BMW F800GS and Young James is actually a Britt traveling around on his BMW 1200GSA.

Clark

[Ruined Adventures]

Note to self:

Where? Cuenca, Ecuador
When? Carnival
Why? Awesome waterfights and silly-string

...or do you suppose I could find this anywhere in Latin America on Carnival?

I can't wait to find out.

[Clark White]

Note to self:

Where? Cuenca, Ecuador
When? Carnival
Why? Awesome waterfights and silly-string

...or do you suppose I could find this anywhere in Latin America on Carnival?

I can't wait to find out.

I think you can probably find that anywhere in Latin America during Carnival. It is certainly everywhere in Ecuador as we had randome water balloons and buckets of water thrown at us in almost every town we went through.

Clark

[Streakerfreak]

The water fight is a fantastic story. Turning out to be a great read and an awesome trip for you.

[Clark White]

Just had a spectacular ride up to 4168m (13,668') in El Cajas National Park. I'll try to post pictures this evening, but hiking around the lakes and chasing llamas at that altitude took it out of me, it's now time to take a nap!

Clark

[Clark White]

This time around will be a quick update in terms of writing. I'm exhausted (not sur why?), my throat hurts, and I have less then a week not be sick before Ustadza arrives in Lima, so I am looking to go to bed early. But really, there isn't much to write since I last updated, I just have a ton of pictures that I think are worth posting. I had planned to leave Cuenca yesterday, but then the idea of riding to El Cajas National Park came up, so I stuck around. Thank God, that was an amazing ride! New plan was to leave today, but then I decided I didn't NEED to leave today, so I stuck around and took it easy. While riding through El Cajas I set a new record for Porky and this trip, 4,168m (13,668ft), which was pretty cool. That wont stand for long since much of the Bolivian Altiplano is well over that, and many passes in the Andes are pushing and over 18,000ft, but it was still pretty cool! Anywhere, here are the pictures of the last two days which tell far more story then I could possibly put in text right now.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-CCbPpsx/0/L/DSC3775-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725049787&k=CCbPpsx&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-N2wdXnm/0/L/DSC3598-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725052110&k=N2wdXnm&lb=1&s=A)

For those of you who haven't rode on wet, grass/moss covered cobble stones, there is no good way to do it besides having suction-cup tires. We were sliding all over the place!
Mark (Radioman)
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-CWSKMRq/0/L/DSC3601-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725052369&k=CWSKMRq&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-xhwZWCW/0/L/DSC3602-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725052723&k=xhwZWCW&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-KN4WvTH/0/L/DSC3603-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725053550&k=KN4WvTH&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Vhm6fZf/0/L/DSC3611-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725055720&k=Vhm6fZf&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-DvRd3dF/0/L/DSC3615-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725055968&k=DvRd3dF&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-DwchRrb/0/L/DSC3616-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725056405&k=DwchRrb&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-RXmQqsp/0/L/DSC3618-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725057236&k=RXmQqsp&lb=1&s=A)

Young James (the Britt)
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-frGZFrf/0/L/DSC3626-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725058595&k=frGZFrf&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-twmMZdw/0/L/DSC3627-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725059213&k=twmMZdw&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-5N4LGSM/0/L/DSC3632-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725060583&k=5N4LGSM&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-vMXTPwf/0/L/DSC3638-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725061260&k=vMXTPwf&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-dBrZsj4/0/L/DSC3641-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725061379&k=dBrZsj4&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-77h5mz3/0/L/DSC3649-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725062494&k=77h5mz3&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rmcHwhC/0/L/DSC3653-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725063700&k=rmcHwhC&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-qjVRqZs/0/L/DSC3673-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725064141&k=qjVRqZs&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-PfV67j7/0/L/DSC3680-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725064300&k=PfV67j7&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-QvXFZQz/0/L/DSC3687-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725064528&k=QvXFZQz&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-K9vFzk9/0/L/DSC3688-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725064609&k=K9vFzk9&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-gFfmf7w/0/L/DSC3643-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725061854&k=gFfmf7w&lb=1&s=A)

Radioman
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-Txg5XjQ/0/L/DSC3684-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725064382&k=Txg5XjQ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-CrTrkgD/0/L/DSC3651-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725062955&k=CrTrkgD&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-pWxVKNV/0/L/DSC3690-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725064954&k=pWxVKNV&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-rKTn3WH/0/L/DSC3692-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725065444&k=rKTn3WH&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Clark White]

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-DZ2LqPM/0/L/DSC3703-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725066086&k=DZ2LqPM&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-2w27Pcm/0/L/DSC3711-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725067392&k=2w27Pcm&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-KXLvqQz/0/L/DSC3717-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725075687&k=KXLvqQz&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-r5pLPjS/0/L/DSC3732-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725080782&k=r5pLPjS&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-NvfMD2g/0/L/DSC3734-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725081332&k=NvfMD2g&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-HxCxdx6/0/L/DSC3728-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725085684&k=HxCxdx6&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-mWz7cJb/0/L/DSC3736-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725086060&k=mWz7cJb&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-xxK5Bm8/0/L/DSC3741-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725086732&k=xxK5Bm8&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-53PfJ4V/0/L/DSC3743-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725087178&k=53PfJ4V&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-G8q38pM/0/L/DSC3746-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725088264&k=G8q38pM&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-LzzxbWk/0/L/DSC3749-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725088622&k=LzzxbWk&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-QdKrKPX/0/L/DSC3750-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725095718&k=QdKrKPX&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-wVhxwHT/0/L/DSC3762-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725095937&k=wVhxwHT&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-9nPvb2j/0/L/DSC3770-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725099134&k=9nPvb2j&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-wnd7zh8/0/L/DSC3771-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725099498&k=wnd7zh8&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-52TkM3J/0/L/DSC3777-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725100083&k=52TkM3J&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Clark White]

From the market today
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-GB7Dx3v/0/L/DSC3778-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725100596&k=GB7Dx3v&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-fCGX8kW/0/L/DSC3781-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725101067&k=fCGX8kW&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-KZz3bm8/0/L/DSC3782-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725101497&k=KZz3bm8&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-bVNtBgR/0/L/DSC3783-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725101580&k=bVNtBgR&lb=1&s=A)

This little girl smiled and waived when I did the same to her, but she was none too sure about this big white boy pointing this big black thing at her...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-qkvgGj7/0/L/DSC3785-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725101659&k=qkvgGj7&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-BcnnZKM/0/L/DSC3786-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725101778&k=BcnnZKM&lb=1&s=A)

Grandma didn't want her picture taken, but after some thought and some polite words on my part she agreed
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-wfBpcb3/0/L/DSC3788-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725101990&k=wfBpcb3&lb=1&s=A)

No idea what these were, but they looked cool!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-3BLBPCQ/0/L/DSC3791-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725102201&k=3BLBPCQ&lb=1&s=A)

Old James, these are for you! They had more eggs in one stand then Costco has ever dreamed of having in one store...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-NJ7gVdT/0/L/DSC3792-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725102271&k=NJ7gVdT&lb=1&s=A)

We bought some chocolate from her, and Radioman got her to hold a piece up so he could take a picture. I took these while she was talking to Mark
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-X6NfGRw/0/L/DSC3793-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725102355&k=X6NfGRw&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-WHRxWNn/0/L/DSC3795-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725102470&k=WHRxWNn&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-95vWdTV/0/L/DSC3797-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725102606&k=95vWdTV&lb=1&s=A)

Taken for Young James, a line of fruit
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/i-HXjVQqq/0/L/DSC3798-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/The-Grand-Vacation/20706209_RVCZF6#!i=1725102785&k=HXjVQqq&lb=1&s=A)

It is now bed time for me, of for Canyon del Pato tomorrow where I will likely camp rather then stay in a hotel, but we shall see. Hope you all enjoy the pictures!

Clark

[Rexsname]

Stunning, just stunning photography WOW


REX

[trailsurfer]

Great Pics. looks like you and Radioman are having a fantastic time.

[bernardbarbour]

Just had a spectacular ride up to 4168m (13,668') in El Cajas National Park. I'll try to post pictures this evening, but hiking around the lakes and chasing llamas at that altitude took it out of me, it's now time to take a nap!

Clark

LOL, Clark you are absolutely right about the nap thing. I spent a week in Cuenca (looking for a retirement spot) and I also visited the park. Chasing the Llama's and being chased by wild horses :-) I guess living at that altitude will just do that to you. Enjoying your trip reports, keep em coming.

[bernardbarbour]

[QUOTE=Clark White;1051115]Well since I finally got the bike, I have my USB cables and got pictures uploaded and edited, so I can do a full update.

I can't for the life of me remember the name of this lady, but she is currently riding her bicycle from Ushuaia to where ever in the U.S. she ends up. Slightly humbled, we started talking about our various trips, at which point she humbled me to the extreme. She has peddled the length of Africa, both directions, crossing the Sahara by pushing the bike through the sand. After that, she decided it would be fun to see Magadan...sorry Scott, she has you beat too. She peddled from her home in Europe all the way across Russia on the Road of Bones, then down through Asia to Vietnam, where she flew to Santiago de Chile...


Clark, that is a totally amazing story about the woman with the bike. Does she have a blog or anything? I'd love to hear more about her adventures. Unbelievable, the people you are meeting in your travels.

[mervifwdc]

Loving the Pictures! Looks like some amazing time you are having!

Merv.

[mervifwdc]

Loving the Pictures! Looks like some amazing time you are having!

Merv.

[Clark White]

Clark, that is a totally amazing story about the woman with the bike. Does she have a blog or anything? I'd love to hear more about her adventures. Unbelievable, the people you are meeting in your travels.

She doesn't have a blog. I asked, and she said everyone does that and writes books, so the stories have all been told and there is no point for her to do the same. I started to argue with her, but since she's been doing this for a LONG while, decided it was probably futile. Another story of hers that I forgot to tell however; When she was riding through Iran, her and a buddy got permission to camp on the beach inside an Iranian Navy base. About 9pm someone changed their mind and sent some poor lackey to kick them out. This guy wouldn't enter the tent because he can't enter a females quarters, so she said screw it, pretended she didn't hear him knocking on the tent, and went to sleep. They got up at 8am and this guy was STILL knocking on her tent poles...they apologized, claiming they didn't hear him, and wen't on their merry way having had a good nights sleep. I love it!!!

Clark

[Clark White]

Off to ride Canon del Pato tomorrow morning, and with luck make it to Lima tomorrow night. Going to ware the camera around my neck (done this before, no problems riding this way) so that I can easily get some good shots of the ride!

Clark

[Clark White]

I will try to post up Pictures of Peru this evening, but for now just a quick update. I attempted to ride Canon del Pato, but wound up getting really lost, which turned out to be a great experience, riding Porky in places that have probably never seen an adventure bike, and where I think few have seen a white man. Some of the locals reactions were absolutely priceless when I came wheeling up on what to them is such an exotic machine. I then made it to Lima after bribing the Police and met Heidi at the airport at 1am. Poor Heidi has since had a rough start to her vacation, and though she is feeling better now, she got a stomach bug (no idea from what, we have been careful what we eat and drink) and spent 4hrs in the hospital after passing out twice in the hotel. She is up and moving, slowly, today though. Being an EMT in a hospital down here is interest...gives new insight on the relative quality of what we have back home!!!

Clark

[Clark White]

So just another quick reply, sorry! James and Ustadza arrived safely and we have all had a fantastic (though greatly extended and unplanned) time getting Cusco. I have now mastered the art of getting horribly lost in the Andes and Heidi has mastered the art of getting sick. We took a less then standard rout to Cusco, and now fully understand why, despite what google maps says, everyone comes here via Nazca rather then Huancayo. We had planned two days, it took us 5, and trust me when I say we were pushing hard the whole time, not taking our sweet *** time. We drove roads that would have been rough in my 4Runner, crossed rivers that would have stopped most 1st world trucks, and even had the honor of sleeping in the car on the side of the road for 14hrs waiting for a flash flood to clear. Thankfully Heidi was only sick for the beginning of this when we still had hotels with nice bathrooms, Ustadza was happy to be with me despite the unplanned travels, and the scenery was hands down the best I have ever seen, topping out at over 16,000ft! I have over 1000 pictures to edit, and LOTS to type, so I make no promises as to when I will get a proper update posted, especially since we are off to Machu Pichu early tomorrow and racing back to Lima as soon as we return from there.

Clark

[Every Miles A Memory]

I hope you're keeping a journal or when you do sit down to start typing, you're going to forget 1/2 of what you've done :sombrero:

Be safe, cant wait to see more photos and hear the stories to go with them

[Clark White]

Ok, here we go! I'm sorry this has taken so long, but it has been a long, busy, and spectacular three weeks! I tried to update this yesterday, but I just wasn't feeling it. After a few hours of staring at a blank screen I gave up and found something else to do. When I left AZ I didn't think it would be such a big deal to keep a ride report up to date, but as time as gone on and internet becomes harder to find, I'm learning it's actually quite a lot of work to keep up on things. Editing photo's, loading photo's, and trying to write something that makes sense with photo's inserted takes a lot of effort! But here it is, three weeks worth of the most amazing riding I have ever done!

First off, I have to post a link for a video put together by Young James (the Britt I rode with in Ecuador) about our ride through Las Cajas Park. It's a great video!

http://vimeo.com/37867924

I left Cuenca Ecuador with sun and blue sky, but that was just a dirty trick ment to make me think it was a good day for riding...about 45min after I pulled out of the hostel it began to POUR. After that, it really started to rain, coming down so hard the dropps actually stung my skin through the motorcycle jacket, jacket liner, and long sleeve shirt. Thankfully all my gear worked as advertised and I stayed nice and dry, I really can't say enough about the quality of Firstgear riding gear! I had opted to follow E35 (Pan Americana Sur is the good road right???) and cross the border at Macara rather then turning off on E25 and riding down to the coast like everyone else does. I now understand why Everyone rides the extra miles to the coast...E35 turns to complete crap once you make the final turn to Macara, and in that kind of heavy rain it was atrocious, I will spare you all my real thoughts on that road in pouring rain. However, in the end I think it was a good choice as the border crossing was super easy. The Ecuadorian side stamped my passport and took my bike papers... literally that fast. The Peruvian side was just as easy, but the computers were down so I had to wait about two hours while the guy figured out how to hand write everything, using a ruler to draw the borders and then trying to trace the seals. It was a great show to watch! I stayed the night in a little hole in the wall Hospedaje in the first little town across the border. A bed is a bed right? I tried not to inspect the sheets too closely...

The only parking available was behind someone who had to leave at 6am, so I had a good early start and headed south, weaving through heavy rush hour traffic for a hundred KM or so until I got to more heavily populated parts. Who knew cow/horse/goat/dog/people traffic was so heavy on the highway in the morning? I had planned to eat breakfast at the first decent place I saw along the coast, but after getting some water splashed on my exhaust coming into Sullana, I decided to press on to somewhere cleaner. The smell of burning **** ruined my appetite, and the massive piles of trash with obvious fecal matter sprayed all over it pretty well killed any desire for food. I didn't even want to put my boots on the ground to stop at a stop light no less touch anything else! Maybe I had become spoiled in Colombia and Ecuador, but I had not expected such filth when I arrived in N. Peru. Amazing how a simple line in the sand can make such a huge difference in peoples pride and quality of life. I really don't think Colombian or Ecuadorian poverty involves any more money or resources then in N. Peru, yet almost everything in Colombia and Ecuador was clean and maintained. Not painted, fancier or richer, but there was no trash, yards were maintained, sidewalks were swept, etc., the complete opposite of the filth I saw my first couple hours across the border. But enough on that rant! I finally pulled off the road for a lunch of Fig Newtons, Gatorade, and trail mix in a deserted area of dunes. Was a beautiful place to rest, but the sand got the best of me on my way out.

Lunch rest
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-88QddZV/0/L/DSC3805-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757653853&k=88QddZV&lb=1&s=A)

Have I ever mentioned to anyone I hate riding in the sand?
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-5Cj5n7m/0/L/DSC3806-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757654121&k=5Cj5n7m&lb=1&s=A)

I made it as far as Chimbote where I stayed the night in a nice Hospedaje who's owner was tickled pink to have a traveler stay (he rent's rooms for two hours at a time, I'll let you guess the purpose of his normal clientele...) I talked to Ustadza on the messenger for a while before passing out, looking to get an early start to ride Canon del Pato the next morning.

You will be happy to know I have lots of pictures, however I have no idea if I rode and portion of Canon del Pato or not. As it turns out, no local has ever heard of the place. I know I started on the right road up the right river, but as far as what is actually Canon del Pato I have no clue, and neither do they...and I did not find it either!

Heading up the Rio Santa, which I am certain is the right start for del Pato
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-nMMXTsc/0/L/DSC3811-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757654320&k=nMMXTsc&lb=1&s=A)

One of many I will be adding to the Long Road to Nowhere thread...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-RTQKZXk/0/L/DSC3814-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757654598&k=RTQKZXk&lb=1&s=A)

I stopped for breakfast at what turned out to be the last town for a very long time and attracted lots of friendly attention!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-KX6v4CH/0/L/DSC3820-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757654943&k=KX6v4CH&lb=1&s=A)

This is where I went wrong. On my right there is a dirt road going off...I thought it just went to a gravel quarry, but I think that it was actually where Canon del Pato beings? For anyone taking this road, this is the first bridge of this type you come to right after a Police check point, and I'm fairly certain you do not want to follow me to the left over the brige. Anyone want to ask how I know you don't want to follow my route?
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-DsJnP47/0/L/DSC3821-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757655275&k=DsJnP47&lb=1&s=A)

Having not yet learned just how backwards Peru can be, I figured the paved road was the main hw and rode like the wind with no one else around and some amazing scenery!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-BLpfJSS/0/L/DSC3826-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757655555&k=BLpfJSS&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-zhBvPnJ/0/L/DSC3831-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757655750&k=zhBvPnJ&lb=1&s=A)

Sure, why wouldn't you drive a semi through here at mach Jesus? It's plenty wide enough for everyone else to get out of the way...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-gffLC3F/0/L/DSC3833-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757655967&k=gffLC3F&lb=1&s=A)

This is the last known location of the two fuel can's you see on the back of the bike...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-JbmxVrV/0/L/DSC3840-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757656284&k=JbmxVrV&lb=1&s=A)

By this point, I am WAY off the proper road. I haven't seen another person for about two hours, but the scenery is so amazing that I had decided I didn't care if it was Canon del Pato (honestly, I still thought I was on the right road), I was going to press on and see what there was to see!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-zs7Hf22/0/L/DSC3843-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757656537&k=zs7Hf22&lb=1&s=A)

I'm lovin this ride!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-GWZdkqG/0/L/DSC3845-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757656744&k=GWZdkqG&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-SRc8SpT/0/L/DSC3850-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757657255&k=SRc8SpT&lb=1&s=A)

Holy crap Batt Man, there is another human out here! She wasn't too thrilled with having her picture taken, but after chatting a little before asking, she sighed and nodded an ok...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-pc6DzcZ/0/L/DSC3882-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757657513&k=pc6DzcZ&lb=1&s=A)

Around the next corner (keep in mind I haven't seen so much as a ruin for three hours now) I run smack into a little town. I talked to the first lady I saw asking if I was still on the right road (I have now learned the ALWAYS say yes, no matter what I ask them...thanks guys, you're a lot of help!). They were all super friendly, and then I started to pull my camera out and ask if I could take a pi...where did everyone go? They literally scattered like cockroaches when the lights come on at the sight of my camera, I didn't even get to finish asking. This little guy was a bit slow, so while putting the camera away I got this shot.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-VhDF3Bx/0/L/DSC3884-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757657834&k=VhDF3Bx&lb=1&s=A)

Not too much further I hear this huge rumble and the ground starts to shake. In a near panic I look up the mountain fearing the worst...nothing. I then look across the valley and the far mountain side is disappearing...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-RWmnmnm/0/L/DSC3889-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757658238&k=RWmnmnm&lb=1&s=A)

Around the next corner I ran into another old lady walking along with a loaded burro. She was staring at me so I killed the engine and started talking to her. Unlike the previous town, she was extremely friendly and helpful (though telling me I'm a stupid Gringo on the wrong road would have been more helpful!) and we chatted for a while. She thought I was just the neatest thing to happen to her valley in a very long time and got excited when I asked if I could take her picture. Not only did she say yes, she posed and told me I had to back up to get a better angle on the Mtn behind her! I really wish I could go back there and give her a copy of the photo's I took of her, she was awesome!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-73PsS4q/0/L/DSC3892-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757658557&k=73PsS4q&lb=1&s=A)

Not too long after that I pulled into larger town that had a square and even a bank, so I figured this would be a good place to positively confirm or deny what road I was on. I parked my bike, grabbed the map, and walked into the bank to ask directions. I honestly have no idea what the guard and teller were telling me, but I managed to get that I was in Pallasca...wait, I'm WHERE!? Try to find that on the map, I dare you...Google maps shows it if you zoom ALL THE WAY IN, there are no known roads going there. I now know they have roads because I rode there, but I was so far from where I was supposed to be that I was actually a little concerned about how to get where I needed. They assured me that there was no way I could possibly get to Cabana from there, and needing to get to Lima to meet Heidi only 36hrs hence, I decided discretion was the better part of valor. I did a loop around the square, pointed her back down hill, and rolled on some serious throttle. I made record time coming down the mountain, and knowing the road from coming up I knew where the hairy sections of road where and where I wouldn't be able to see trucks coming. At the first bridge coming back down I had to stop for about 30min while a trucker figured out what his best course of action would be...he had broke through and his front right was hanging in the air over the river!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Nj4sLdD/0/L/DSC3895-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757658824&k=Nj4sLdD&lb=1&s=A)

Yeah, that was pretty much my thought too...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-hNLrVJq/0/L/DSC3903-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757658996&k=hNLrVJq&lb=1&s=A)

After that I have no photo's for a few days, and not too many stories to tell. I managed to make it to Lima that night, no thanks to the Policia National. I am now a master at bribing, and since have mastered frustrating them with no bribe until they just leave me alone. I was pulled over twice, the first time was for passing in a no passing zone. Ok, he had fair me fair and square on that one so I paid. The second time they said the same, but really I started passing less then a meter from the start of the passing zone. Did my tires even touch the double yellow? I doubt it! I paid them a bribe as well but they wanted more. After nearly an hour of arguing with them I lost my temper. They had taken all my money and I was not about to waste one more bloody second on these worthless excuses for cops. I took out a hand full of .50 centemos (worth about $0.01USD), started screaming that I had no more f****** money, and started throwing individual coins at them. This attracted a LOT of attention from anyone within earshot, so they said ok, tore up the fake ticket and left. I decided that was the last damn bribe I was going to pay in this country. After that I was just plain pissed, which makes me stubborn, so I said screw it and pressed on to Lima and found a hostel a day early. I spent the next day waiting for Heidi just hanging out, taking the day off, and hiding in the shade. I went to the airport to meet Heidi about 0030 in the morning. But wait, who is Heidi? I had met her once 6yrs ago for about 3hrs, so was that girl who just walked by Heidi?? Damn, where did she go...oh no, I think I just lost Heidi...oh this is going to suck... Thankfully all that worry was for not, for when the real Heidi walked out of customs I immediately recognized her and she me. Beer at the hostel and by then it was 0400, so we passed out.

We had two days to spend before Ustadza and James arrived, so while we didn't want to be bored we also didn't want to see and do everything. We went to Huaca Pucllana for the morning, which is an impressive pre Inca temple just a few blocks from where we were staying. Lima averages 7mm of rain per year (thats 1/4in), which means that the mud bricks are amazing well preserved. So well in fact, that you can see the finger prints of the man who slapped on the mortar somewhere between 1300 and 1800 years ago!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-DCdxJ9C/0/L/DSC3905-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757659242&k=DCdxJ9C&lb=1&s=A)

They laid the brick on end with no mortar in between, only on top and bottom, which allows the building to wiggle with the force of earthquakes. Same basic theory as earth quake proof buildings of today, and it obviously works pretty well. Wonder how many earth quakes this place has survived in almost 2000 years?
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-VwnbffJ/0/L/DSC3908-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757659527&k=VwnbffJ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-frq89TD/0/L/DSC3909-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757659879&k=frq89TD&lb=1&s=A)

It was a religious and burial ground. They found Royals buried on top near where others were sacrificed. The sacrificial folk were buried at the base of the temple.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-7Zhpqfk/0/L/DSC3917-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757660143&k=7Zhpqfk&lb=1&s=A)

They had some llamas there as well, I just had to take a picture of this guy...DERP!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-HSNsLpc/0/L/DSC3929-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757660326&k=HSNsLpc&lb=1&s=A)

We returned to the hostel and Heidi wasn't feeling so well, so I sat down to write everything you just read while she napped...well that was three weeks ago, so you can guess how well that went! Heidi's not feeling well progressed, and when I went to check on her a while later she was hanging out of the window, too tired to climb into her top bunk after all the bathroom stops. I began checking on her more often, which turned out to be a good thing. Not long after she asked me to wait outside the bathroom, and when she came out she collapsed on the floor. I carried her back and put her in my bottom bunk. She tried to drink some water but it would just come right back up so she went to sleep. I moved my typing attempts into the room and hung out for a few hours, but she seemed to be sleeping well so I moved out to the couch again...that was just a dirty trick of fait. Soon after I moved I checked on her again only to find her in the bathroom once more. She asked me to wait, but this time didn't even make it off the pot, passing out right there. Her face hitting the floor wasn't even enough to bring her around, so I decided enough was enough and she was going to the ER. We had thankfully made friends with a Spanish girl named Lea who spoke good english, so she agreed to go along as a translator. Let me tell you, Peruvian ER's are not a nice place to be, and we were in the nice one of Miraflores! They apparently segregate their ER's by sex, and males are not allowed in the female part of the ER. Honestly not knowing this, I marched right in behind the guy pushing Heidi in a wheel chair, making it past security before they had a chance to slow me down. They tried their best to explain to me that I couldn't be there, but with a barely conscious Heidi clinging to my leg I pretended like I had no clue what they were telling me. I explained in english influenced spanish that I was her husband (I had already figured that only family could visit) and that I was a nurse and would not be leaving her side. That worked for about 5min before security started to get irate and I figured I should back down before it got ugly. I had Lea translate that they were not to stick anything in her that was not brand new and from a steril package. Interestingly, their response to this was to give me a shopping list and send me on my way! It took 3 hours and only about $8USD, but finally they got tired of me sending Lea in to harass them and after putting 2L of fluid in her, Heidi came stumbling out of the ER. It was now 3am, so after putting Heidi back in the bottom bunk and thanking Lea profusely, I wasted no time passing out. Saturday was spent getting some maintenance taken care of on the bike, getting the rental car, and trying to find mild food for Heidi, who was fast recovering from her one night stand with the demon bug. Ustadza and James were arriving the next morning!

More coming tonight, and if I don't get it all done; tomorrow! I still have two weeks of crazy adventure to go, this may take a while...

Clark

[AbbyBurkle]

You need more alpaca pictures.

[Clark White]

Your order will be right up, Madam!

Clark

[trailsurfer]

Great pics Clark! What an epic journey.

[Clark White]

Great pics Clark! What an epic journey.

Thanks trailsurfer! I started on the next update and then some friends here in Lima invited me to beer, so I didn't get very far on the next one. Will try to get it up today though!

Clark

[MiniGene]

I know it is a lot of work to put the updates on put I sure am enjoying them! Thanks for sharing.

[Clark White]

Ustadza is here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh yeah, James came too...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-9fN4Tg2/0/L/DSC3957-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757661207&k=9fN4Tg2&lb=1&s=A)

But really, I was happy that James came along...I just can't pass up a chance to give him crap. We spent Sunday wandering around Parque Kennedy and hanging out. Monday we picked up some sandwiches at the shop next door and headed out. Everyone I talked to about our route would make some comment about how the busses go to Cusco via Nazca, and would raise an eyebrow when I'd mention we were going to go through Huancayo instead, but not a word was said as to WHY the eyebrows went up. We were soon to learn! A couple hours outside of Lima we stopped on the side of the road with a great view to eat our sandwiches.

Please sir, can we eat our sandwiches now???
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-vKW65dL/0/L/DSC3983-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757661675&k=vKW65dL&lb=1&s=A)

Absolutely not, under no circumstances am I going to climb up and eat on that wall!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-SpPpGtP/0/L/DSC3982-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757661431&k=SpPpGtP&lb=1&s=A)

I'm obviously more stubborn as Ustadza took this picture from atop the wall...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-PmXm7Cj/0/L/DSC3988-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757661914&k=PmXm7Cj&lb=1&s=A)

We loaded back up and continued up the Mtn., with passengers slipping into a blissful food coma
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-7K8QFVx/0/L/DSC4013-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757662103&k=7K8QFVx&lb=1&s=A)

Our first idea of why eyebrows were raised at going through Huancayo in a rental car was when we realized just how much we were climbing and that it was beginning to snow.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-CDtwXJ2/0/L/DSC4023-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757662251&k=CDtwXJ2&lb=1&s=A)

This was taken at the pass, 4818m, just a touch over 15,800 feet...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-BPCfwhZ/0/L/DSC4043-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757662417&k=BPCfwhZ&lb=1&s=A)

We really should have researched it more, but from the maps it had looked like the road took a valley and we knew Cusco wasn't too high, so we thought nothing of taking this route, unwittingly coming straight from sea level in half a day. We got lucky however and no ill effects were felt besides being short of breath, so we pressed on. It had now been a few hours since out lunch stop, so we picked a secluded spot with a view and some dry looking plants. I will save you any details, but Heidi had still been having I'll effects from being sick, so when this stop didn't turn disastrous she was quite excited...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-2rvrMZh/0/L/DSC4109-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757662659&k=2rvrMZh&lb=1&s=A)

Feeling joyous about this she ran around picking wild flowers to make a crown...busted!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Jmnjg7H/0/L/DSC4112-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757662925&k=Jmnjg7H&lb=1&s=A)

Look James, I'm going to put these together and you can ware them!!!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-HHcNwkM/0/L/DSC4124-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757663281&k=HHcNwkM&lb=1&s=A)

James was adamantly swearing that crown was NOT going on his head...hours later he had forgotten he was wearing it when we pulled into town :-D
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-mDvT5rQ/0/L/DSC4117-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757663121&k=mDvT5rQ&lb=1&s=A)

Ustadza's first big international trip not with the family, and it's with me!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-TM4N69q/0/L/DSC4128-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757663440&k=TM4N69q&lb=1&s=A)

We stopped in Jauja for the night, staying in a nice, hard to find, and very friendly little hostel run by an old lady who made it VERY clear that she had three beds; James and I would share the big one and the girls were going to be sleeping in the two smaller beds...yes ma'am, what ever you say ma'am!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-bSrqDmK/0/L/DSC4180-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757663599&k=bSrqDmK&lb=1&s=A)

We found a wonderful little restaurant for dinner, had our first taste of Coca tea, and the most amazing grilled cheese sandwiches made with home made cheese. We came back for breakfast and got the same sandwiches but with eggs on top, they were so good! While sitting there eating I took a few pictures of the locals going by;

Man on a mission
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-P9gxqCn/0/L/DSC4195-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757663748&k=P9gxqCn&lb=1&s=A)

This poor guy was sent by his store owning mom to get some stuff for the store...he didn't look too happy about doing it, especially in the rain
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-LsLHVKf/0/L/DSC4199-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757663939&k=LsLHVKf&lb=1&s=A)

We headed out and made good time through Huancayo, but soon after we started to get our first full lesson on the afore mentioned raised eyebrows...yep, thats a dirt road for as far as we can see over every pass. At least it's busy and well maintained!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-qF3zhQt/0/L/DSC4422-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757664122&k=qF3zhQt&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-fCjvGfn/0/L/DSC4439-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757664348&k=fCjvGfn&lb=1&s=A)

Typical traffic jam down here...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-KWnM4Sd/0/L/DSC4452-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757664573&k=KWnM4Sd&lb=1&s=A)

We stopped at a pass that was a little over 4,000m to take a break and slowly plod around looking at the scenery.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-g2h4Cgk/0/L/DSC4463-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757664783&k=g2h4Cgk&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-GdGrH2q/0/L/DSC4465-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757665109&k=GdGrH2q&lb=1&s=A)

James testing out local anti wind engineering
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-wNcGJhL/0/L/DSC4466-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757665422&k=wNcGJhL&lb=1&s=A)

Heidi's favorite flora
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-8jp54HZ/0/L/DSC4470-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757665696&k=8jp54HZ&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-DVkNxn2/0/L/DSC4471-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757665927&k=DVkNxn2&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Every Miles A Memory]

Awesome update Clark!

[Clark White]

The reason we stopped
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-HH4m238/0/L/DSC4475-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757666144&k=HH4m238&lb=1&s=A)

Yep, it was a pretty damn good view!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-VdTNNRW/0/L/DSC4476-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757666348&k=VdTNNRW&lb=1&s=A)

So good that despite the altitude I got Ustadza to take a walk with me to see what was on the other side of that big ridge over there
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-vr7fV8N/0/L/DSC4599-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757666781&k=vr7fV8N&lb=1&s=A)

What we found on the other side...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-TLrXGS7/0/L/DSC4592-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757666524&k=TLrXGS7&lb=1&s=A)

We hit pavement again and once more made good time, but by now we realized it was going to be three solid days to Cusco this way, not two
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-FpCsb9b/0/L/DSC4662-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757667313&k=FpCsb9b&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-bsBnPPG/0/L/DSC4678-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757667698&k=bsBnPPG&lb=1&s=A)

We spent the night in Huancavalica, which if I'm not mistaken was once the richest town in Peru and is now the poorest. It didn't feel too dirty, and though it was obviously very poor everyone was friendly and it only cost us 3 sole (about $1.25USD) to park the car for the night.

Vender outside the car park
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-HPjnWLV/0/L/DSC4732-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757668061&k=HPjnWLV&lb=1&s=A)

We had some trouble getting out of town with construction and poor maps, but after circling the town three or four times we got gas and made it. Fortunately for the views (but unfortunately for our rental and desire to make tracks to Cusco) the road started to take a turn for the worse. We were about to get a full understanding of the raised eyebrows.

We saw MANY llamas along the way
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-sCRQbMb/0/L/DSC4753-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757668300&k=sCRQbMb&lb=1&s=A)

Our first hint that this was not the main tourist road...not so bad I know, but it got much worse before it got better!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-FkwdFZf/0/L/DSC4789-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757668530&k=FkwdFZf&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-vJsFL9G/0/L/DSC4808-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757668800&k=vJsFL9G&lb=1&s=A)

I'm really curious, are these self service churches, or does someone preach here?
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-R8TmZkJ/0/L/DSC4821-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757669143&k=R8TmZkJ&lb=1&s=A)

Whats that George? It's bigger then us, ya think we should move??? NAWWWWWWW!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-fXRWD2k/0/L/DSC4824-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757669545&k=fXRWD2k&lb=1&s=A)

Lad, ladies, um, I think they want by, uhhhhh, I think maybe you should move?
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-LVP77Jd/0/L/DSC4832-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757670437&k=LVP77Jd&lb=1&s=A)

Oh shut up Betsy, they can do what ever they want, leave them alone!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-4ZSHpVN/0/L/DSC4831-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757670133&k=4ZSHpVN&lb=1&s=A)

.........
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-rF6X3F8/0/L/DSC4825-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757669837&k=rF6X3F8&lb=1&s=A)

I love llamas, the impressively stupid looks on their faces make for some great photos! They finally listened to Betsy when I honked the horn, throwing them all into a panicked flail off the road. We pressed on.

This switchback was so tight you have to drive past it, go around the loop, then come back. Even our small Kia wouldn't begin to make that turn.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-NjWTtxG/0/L/DSC4847-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757670646&k=NjWTtxG&lb=1&s=A)

We drove and drove through beautiful, amazing, nothing. It was spectacular!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-b7C4XSw/0/L/DSC4897-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757671153&k=b7C4XSw&lb=1&s=A)

Out of nowhere there was a sheep herder just sitting on the side of the road, LONG ways from anything.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-bsfctz2/0/L/DSC4887-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757670860&k=bsfctz2&lb=1&s=A)

We finally topped out at 4,860m, that's nearly 16,000ft with what I am quite certain is one of the best views int he whole world.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Nw8BpCC/0/L/DSC4936-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757671398&k=Nw8BpCC&lb=1&s=A)

We found a beautiful little lake to stop by and just stared...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-XPrnD9G/0/L/DSC4942-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757671671&k=XPrnD9G&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Clark White]

Awesome update Clark!

Thanks Pat! I have lots more, haven't even gotten to the part where we were glad all rental cars are 4x4, or spending 14hrs sleeping in the car on the side of the road...and then of course there is Machupicchu...taking a break though, my fingers are getting tired of typing!

Clark

[Clark White]

While stopped at the lake, we agreed that it was a great place for Ustadza to get dressed in her Belly Dance gear and take some pictures. It was a little bit on the cold side, but despite her shivering she managed to get beautifully done up and we took a whole bunch of great pictures.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-6v2ZwxK/0/L/DSC4958-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757671949&k=6v2ZwxK&lb=1&s=A)

Part of why it was so cold is that it was quite windy, which made for some interesting times watching Ustadza try to control her silk veil.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-mkBZcpm/0/L/DSC4962-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757672138&k=mkBZcpm&lb=1&s=A)

But I think she did a pretty good job of it!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Gjcg3Ts/0/L/DSC4981-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757672504&k=Gjcg3Ts&lb=1&s=A)

We took a break to change backdrops...did I mention it was cold?
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-FSv9sK2/0/L/DSC5010-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757672937&k=FSv9sK2&lb=1&s=A)

Some more fashionable poses
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-5nqzCsq/0/L/DSC5031-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757673390&k=5nqzCsq&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-pKBhD3N/0/L/DSC5045-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757673719&k=pKBhD3N&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-JQpGgxj/0/L/DSC5049-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757673966&k=JQpGgxj&lb=1&s=A)

And of course we needed a picture of the two of us! Courtesy of James
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Vd2ntnj/0/L/DSC5061-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757674245&k=Vd2ntnj&lb=1&s=A)

The first town we had seen in about 4hrs of driving
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-674QSbm/0/L/DSC5093-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757674440&k=674QSbm&lb=1&s=A)

Another hour and we came across the first place we had seen with a restaurant, so with no further ado we made ourselves at home. They have an extensive menue consisting of fried trout, fried trout, or the house special of...you guessed it!...fried trout. Heidi had her first ever fish, and I'm not going lie, it was some of the best darn fish I have ever had.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-rJk87kv/0/L/DSC5105-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757674575&k=rJk87kv&lb=1&s=A)

Yep, pretty darn good!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Zg9cGkR/0/L/DSC5107-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757674748&k=Zg9cGkR&lb=1&s=A)

Sheep farm along the way
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-S8KzNBp/0/L/DSC5117-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757675161&k=S8KzNBp&lb=1&s=A)

We hit some more pavement and made really good time headed for Ayacucho. By now we had realized it wasn't a 3 day trip to Cusco, it was 4 days.

Apparently there are some springs over there...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-L9vH3Mr/0/L/DSC5151-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757675608&k=L9vH3Mr&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-22scfq6/0/L/DSC5153-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757675917&k=22scfq6&lb=1&s=A)

Some amazing skies headed into Ayacucho.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-WGBpQ8n/0/L/DSC5211-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757676141&k=WGBpQ8n&lb=1&s=A)

We stayed the night in Ayacucho, though to be honest I have no recollection of the hotel or hostel we stayed at. We got up early as we were now getting quite behind schedule getting to Cusco (we had planned 2 and were starting our 4th day) and still had a ways to go. But it was a good start, the roads were well paved, and we had high hopes....which ended shortly after leaving Ayacucho, which is where the pavement once again ended. Yeah, that is a whole lot of dirt road stretching out infront of us, and yes, those are indeed rain clouds...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-qkktXxM/0/L/DSC5293-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757676318&k=qkktXxM&lb=1&s=A)

There aren't a whole lot more pictures from that day; it rained, the roads turned to slippery mucky snot, and we drove like hell. We finally made it out of the mud only to descend into dusty buss on the wrong side of the road hell for most of the rest of day. We had a tuktuk (not sure what they are called here?) run us off the road into a ditch, raking the underside of the car on bowling ball sized rocks. It was a miracle that we came out of that ditch! At one point I had to get the car across a section of construction that had been absolutely destroyed by the busses. I'm proud to say I was successful, but I had to keep the car, through pure mush, straddling the (I **** you not) 2 foot deep ruts left by the busses, with the right side of the car inches away from a trench big enough to burry the entire buss. The construction guys tried to stop us, but I pretended I hadn't noticed because at this point it was too far to go back and there was no other road...they were in shock when we came out the other side with out sliding into those ruts or the trench, scraping the belly of the car through the mud the whole way. The girls closed their eyes. After that we hit the most glorious pavent I have ever seen. By now we had given up on Cusco for the day, we just wanted to make it to Abencay, which was the next town that we might be able to stay in. Even though James was not allowed to drive according to the rental agency, I turned it over to him as I was too exhausted to drive anymore. We ran wide open on the pavement, but as we had now come to expect, that didn't last. The road turned back to mud again, and the fog set in. It got so thick that we couldn't see 5 feet infront of the car, and it started raining again. Then it got dark. We agreed we were going to stop at the next town we saw, but town after town was abandoned or closed down, so we had no choice but to press on, there wasn't even a place to pull over for a nap. The truck and buss trafic continued to be insane, and then we saw a solid line of trucks coming towards us. Why would there be such a convoy at this time of night? It was now 9pm. Why we asked? Because there was a landslide that had closed down the road to one lane of 6inch deep muck. We patiently waited for the mass of trucks to pass going up the hill, then hoping that the minnivan taxis going up didn't have that much more clearance then we, James floored it. I'm not even sure the tires were touching the bottom of the ruts, but momentum carried us through and we came spitting out the other side (go James!) only to be stuck in total gridlock.

Looking behind us
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-NkQQ9X5/0/L/DSC5323-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757676467&k=NkQQ9X5&lb=1&s=A)

and infront
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-3tjXwFm/0/L/DSC5325-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757676672&k=3tjXwFm&lb=1&s=A)

Thanks to some very vocal truckers they shuffled trucks around until we could get through and we pressed on. Every vehicle we ran into headed up the mountain stopped us to ask if the road was passable. I tried my best to say yes with the caveat of traffic, but I doubt any of them heard anything past si. Hours later we were finally through all the switchbacks and hit pavent. Only 10km to Abencay, HERE WE COME BABAY!!!!!!! Or not...14hrs is how long we slept in the car, wandered around the mud, and cursed murphy only 5km short of a hotel and a bed...

Our sleeping arrangements, to which we finally resigned at 1am
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-KsHBjpN/0/L/DSC5328-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757677060&k=KsHBjpN&lb=1&s=A)

The reason for the delay, taken the next day
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-6TxLq3n/0/L/DSC5330-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757677492&k=6TxLq3n&lb=1&s=A)

Finally the road crews got through with a bunch of heavy machinery and cleared the road enough that the trucks could get through, then the 4x4's, then the higher clearance vans...but wait, a taxi car just went past, there is hope! There was a lull in traffic from the other side, and knowing a car just made it I disconnected the air filter box (it breathes from below the bumper) jumped in the drivers seat, and made a run for...****, the cop says hell no. I backed into our parking spot and killed the engine while they let another hours worth of trucks come form the other side. Turns out this worked out for the best as we ran into Anders, who is riding his KTM 990 ADV around the world. You can see his stuff here; http://www.andersaroundtheworld.com/ Finally they stopped traffic from the other direction and it was our turn. One more pass of the road grater and we were first in line with the lowest clearance car in the whole bloody country (not really, but it sure felt like it, I miss my Toyota!) But no worries, all rental cars are 4x4, so a little liberal application of some throttle and we made it across all the bolders and the water no problem, not even a splash in the windows! There were two more such crossings, but they hadn't filled with boulders like the first, so we crossed no problem. The last one however was much deeper, narrower, and faster flowing. I didn't want to get washed away, so I stopped, rolled up my window, and hammered the throttle. Made it no problem and didn't get washed sideways at all...but James was too busy getting the video camera going to notice I rolled up my window. His remained down so he took a large face full of river water through the window. That gave us some laughs! Lets hope he gets his act together and posts the videos tonight!

Lunch was had in Abencay (the first food in almost 24hrs besides snacks) and we and Anders beet feet for Cusco. It only took 5 days, not the planned 2, but we had finally made it! Not only did we make it, but we saw some of the most amazing scenery any of us had ever dreamed of, and saw places few tourists get to see. It cost us Lake Titicaca, Arequipa, and the Nazca lines, but I would say it was well worth it. We were still going to see Machupicchu and none of us gave a crap about the rest!

Clark

[MattScott]

I think you need more Alpaca.

[Clark White]

I think you need more Alpaca.

I think that's actually all I have so far! I still have three mor countries and almost 9000 miles worth of Alpaca country to go though though, so I will get more!

Clark

[Clark White]

Looking at that last picture it occurs to me you can't really see how deep it is. Some parts are only ankle deep, but others were knee deep, and it was ripping through that area. All night long you could feel and hear head sized rocks tumbling downstream.

Clark

[crawler#976]

Great update Clark! 16K - that's higher than most of the training flights in the Prescott area...

News from home - Prescott got the 4th highest one day total of snow on Sunday at 16", Groom Creek at 27", and it's 70 degs today, and the snow is almost gone.

[Clark White]

Great update Clark! 16K - that's higher than most of the training flights in the Prescott area...

News from home - Prescott got the 4th highest one day total of snow on Sunday at 16", Groom Creek at 27", and it's 70 degs today, and the snow is almost gone.

Good lord! I knew we had a lot there, but didn't know it was 4th highest. And leave it up to AZ to get that much snow and melt it all off in the same week...

Clark

[MattScott]

I think that's actually all I have so far! I still have three mor countries and almost 9000 miles worth of Alpaca country to go though though, so I will get more!

Clark

That's not good enough.

I want you to bring back an Alpaca for the back yard.

[Chazz Layne]

One for the shop too please, and a tactical alpaca for my house. :D

[Clark White]

One for the shop too please, and a tactical alpaca for my house. :D

Two will fit on the bike fine, but I don´t know about a tactical version. I hear they tend to be heavy and over built...

Clark

[Clark White]

Wow, that is all I have to say. Todays 2 hour ride turned into 11 hours of amazingly rough and beautiful exhaustion. I going to go to bed now..

Clark

[MattScott]

Update on the Alpacas?

[Clark White]

Update on the Alpacas?

Spent most of the day trying to figure out how to edit a bloody video! Seriously, could they make a simple task any more complicated? imovie won't import gopro footage, the program from gopro wont let me combine multiple clips, and there is no way I'm paying for a program to do that! Once I either figure it

Clark

[Clark White]

Wow, totally botched that last post. I give up on videos, nothing I try to do works. I finally got one video cut down, imovie wont let me add any sort of transition between clips, so if it ever finishes exporting I will just put it up as is and try to get on with photo's and ride report. Maybe when I get home I can get someone to help me, we shall see!

Clark

[Ruined Adventures]

As long as you get the GoPro videos loaded onto your iPhoto, it should automatically import the videos when you first open iMovie. There's a little popup after opening iMovie, it should look like this:
93193

Be sure to select "Now"...better yet, just stop by an Apple Store. Surely there's dozens in the Peruvian Andes :sombrero:

[Clark White]

As long as you get the GoPro videos loaded onto your iPhoto, it should automatically import the videos when you first open iMovie. There's a little popup after opening iMovie, it should look like this:

Be sure to select "Now"...better yet, just stop by an Apple Store. Surely there's dozens in the Peruvian Andes :sombrero:

Oh yes, I see them in every little town!:bike_rider:

What whooped my arse so bad was at first I was trying to use the wrong import option. Once I finally realized that "import HD project" didn't mean import an HD movie and start a project, it was a long and steep learning curve to figure out how to get it all to where I could edit the video. Then another steep learning curve to cut and splice...I never did figure out how to insert transitions betweens the clips, all the options were greyed out. By then it was 10:30 at night and I didn't care any more. Another hour to finalize, then an hour and a half to upload to youtube...yep, the rest of my videos can wait until I get home!

Working on editing photo's from that ride right now, will try my best to get Machupicchu written up and Canon del Colca as well, that way my ride report will be completely up to date before my (in Alex's words) outrageous off road adventure begins trying to ride into Reserva National las Vicunas on Wednesday. As best as I can tell no one has ever taken an adventure bike in there, and if they have they didn't put anything up for Google to find!

Clark

[Clark White]

For now, here is my sorry attempt at putting together a video!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IXfTbim5Lo&feature=youtu.be

Clark

[MattScott]

Spent most of the day trying to figure out how to edit a bloody video! Seriously, could they make a simple task any more complicated? imovie won't import gopro footage, the program from gopro wont let me combine multiple clips, and there is no way I'm paying for a program to do that! Once I either figure it

Clark

Sounds like an Anti-Alpaca excuse. Shame.

[Clark White]

Ok, so I'm now sitting in Arequipa trying to pretend I don't feel like throwing up...hopefully the Pisco I just drank will kill what ever it is in my belly before it gets any worse! Anyway, last update got us to Cusco. We spent a day in Cusco to figure out what we were doing, and of course the girls wanted to shop tell they dropped...which they did!

I don't normally pay for photo's, but this girl walked up and had too good of a thing goin to ignore
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-ksL9hvb/0/L/DSC5375-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757677880&k=ksL9hvb&lb=1&s=A)

Heidi found a new friend for lunch...oddly enough the guy you see in the background turned out to be the owner, no wonder he was giving us weird looks!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Gd6bHBZ/0/L/DSC5378-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757678258&k=Gd6bHBZ&lb=1&s=A)

Saturday market
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-L87K2xv/0/L/DSC5387-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757678576&k=L87K2xv&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-QBMx7Zt/0/L/DSC5391-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757678943&k=QBMx7Zt&lb=1&s=A)

From there we parked the car (I was only too happy to not drive that thing for a while!) and arranged a tour deal for Machupicchu. We took a private Taxi to Ollantaytambo, and from there took the train to Aguas Calientes.

Less touristy part of Cusco
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Gnsgzg6/0/L/DSC5402-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757679339&k=Gnsgzg6&lb=1&s=A)

Stall we were next to waiting for the train in Ollantaytambo
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-C6qjRG7/0/L/DSC5409-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757679718&k=C6qjRG7&lb=1&s=A)

Menu in Aguas Calientes...anyone notice anything strange on there?
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-rSTNwmq/0/L/DSC5434-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757679911&k=rSTNwmq&lb=1&s=A)

Looking towards Machupicchu, which is hidden in the mist.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-gD3VMjv/0/L/DSC5437-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757680106&k=gD3VMjv&lb=1&s=A)

We awoke early to catch the bus up to Machupicchu. I wanted to hike up, but there was no way I was getting up at 430 in the morning to do so! Later I was very glad we took the buss...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-MDbR9Tk/0/L/DSC5440-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757680443&k=MDbR9Tk&lb=1&s=A)

First view through the entrance gate!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-6cbR3Bn/0/L/DSC5448-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757680710&k=6cbR3Bn&lb=1&s=A)

Ustadza grabbed my camera while we waited in line to climb Waynapicchu
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Vs69zcD/0/L/DSC5450-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757680895&k=Vs69zcD&lb=1&s=A)

The girls truckin up the stairs. It's something like 100 flights of stairs? No idea what that translates to, but it is 360m (1,180ft) above Machupicchu and that trail goes almost straight up!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Zt28Nrq/0/L/DSC5455-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757681247&k=Zt28Nrq&lb=1&s=A)

Heidi taking in the sights from the base of the temple
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-f4smn4F/0/L/DSC5462-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757681545&k=f4smn4F&lb=1&s=A)

Ustadza standing as close as she was willing to go to the same spot Heidi was sitting, beautiful view in all respects!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-wgwGgn7/0/L/DSC5466-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757681860&k=wgwGgn7&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-QQwr2vx/0/L/DSC5468-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757682150&k=QQwr2vx&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-ZBKGfr4/0/L/DSC5471-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757682508&k=ZBKGfr4&lb=1&s=A)

Now that is a road!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-HZfcKcL/0/L/DSC5477-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757682901&k=HZfcKcL&lb=1&s=A)

James not looking nearly as excited as Heidi, I think he was tired
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-R35NJ4k/0/L/DSC5479-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757683178&k=R35NJ4k&lb=1&s=A)

Lots of flowers on top!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-655Nh5v/0/L/DSC5487-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757683556&k=655Nh5v&lb=1&s=A)

Wow, that is steep...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-SJvPPP8/0/L/DSC5497-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757683960&k=SJvPPP8&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-KgFqm8L/0/L/DSC5590-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757686381&k=KgFqm8L&lb=1&s=A)

Ustadza brought her belly gear, so we took some more pictures of her with Machupicchu in the back ground. There are many more, but just a sampling...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Z55WK8Z/0/L/DSC5512-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757684327&k=Z55WK8Z&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-dWQRxKL/0/L/DSC5550-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757684666&k=dWQRxKL&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-757ds7g/0/L/DSC5560-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757684958&k=757ds7g&lb=1&s=A)

Enjoying the view...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-59sBQ9R/0/L/DSC5588-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757685934&k=59sBQ9R&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Clark White]

Coming back down. I was looking almost straight up to get this picture!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-KW5djZX/0/L/DSC5592-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757686700&k=KW5djZX&lb=1&s=A)

And of course, the post card shots
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-nKmDRxR/0/L/DSC5605-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757687044&k=nKmDRxR&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Nc9VHPd/0/L/DSC5608-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757687434&k=Nc9VHPd&lb=1&s=A)

Taken in a cave of sorts in the middle of the ruins
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-C9MhcwD/0/L/DSC5635-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757687764&k=C9MhcwD&lb=1&s=A)

By the time we had come back down Wynapicchu and walked around the ruins, my right knee was killing me and Ustadza's poor legs were about shot (many of the stairs were waist high on her!), so we took the bus down while James and Heidi hiked down. Train back to Ollantaytambo and late buss to Cusco didn't get us back to the hostel until 1130 at night, so we all crashed hard. The next morning we had a leisurely breakfast and some more shopping for the girls. We all picked up llama tasteless (mine are now on Porky's handlebars and I have since been told they are worn in traditional dress, not by llamas).

James and Heidi had had enough of each other...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-CHxmGbb/0/L/DSC5642-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1757688137&k=CHxmGbb&lb=1&s=A)

That's not entirely true, they were trying to show off their new tasteless, but it looks like they are trying to avoid talking. We then loaded up the rental and beet some serious feet straight back to Lima. No pictures as everyone was tired and we were anxious to just get back to Lima, get rid of the rental, put our feet up, and do NOTHING. We succeeded and made it by early afternoon the next day, giving us two days to just hang out and not go anywhere. It was fantastic! Sadly, Saturday came entirely too fast and everyone had to leave. Ustadza and I said our tearful goodbyes and I hung out in Lima for a few more days. Some St. Patty's day drinking with some new friends that I had met when Heidi first arrived, and then I had work to do on the bike, this ride report, and just plain resting.

One of the guy's I had met in Bogota, Colombia was coming down to Ica and needed a new riding partner. His had had the misfortune to have appendicitis and Meckel, and after two surgeries in tiny towns in Peru, he had to take an emergency flight back to the US due to complications. We agreed to meet in Huancachina, which is a beautiful desert oasis surrounded by sand dunes towering many hundreds of feet into the skyline.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-GzBTwqg/0/L/DSC5648-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1760956074&k=GzBTwqg&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-cH79g9j/0/L/DSC5654-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1760956430&k=cH79g9j&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-LkBrnBk/0/L/DSC5658-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1760956907&k=LkBrnBk&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-fwb8hNx/0/L/DSC5663-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1760957064&k=fwb8hNx&lb=1&s=A)

We staid a full day there so that Alex could do some sand boarding and I could get the last three updates on here finished and posted. We then rode down the coast for Arequipa, making it as far as Majes. The next morning we decided to ride the loop for Canon del Colca (second deepest canyon in the world) thinking this would put us into Arequipa early afternoon the next day. What we didn't know was that the half day trip the tourists take is a wait and return from Arequipa, NOT the loop we were taking. Thinking we would lunch in Arequipa we set out. In the back of our minds we knew there was a serious lack of traffic for a popular tourist route, but happy to not be run over by busses we thought nothing of it...eleven hours later we finally pulled into Arequipa, beat, sore, dusty, sore, and beat. Sporting 30mph battle scars on Porky (Porky 0, road 1) and meager attempts at smiles through our shivers and exhaustion we were pretty damn happy to see hostel Flying Dog! I will tell much more in a front page article that I shall write, probably while sitting in my lounge chair (sitting backwards on Porky using the tank as a recliner) staring at the rarely visited Reserva Nacional las Vicunas, in Chile. We shall see!

Departing tomorrow for Arica, Chile and Wednesday will be our grand attempt at las Vicunas, which as best as I can tell no one has ever tried to ride into on fully loaded adventure bikes. Should be quite the grand adventure!

Clark

P.S. If anyone is interested in any of my photos, I would love to sell some to help pay for gas (it is much more expensive down here then I would have thought!). I don't really have a price system worked out, but if you e-mail me (midknightc3 at gmail dot com) and let me know what pictures and what size, I'm sure we can easily work something out!

[Clark White]

How wonderfull trip, i hope i have one in the future!

Thanks rain! It's amazing, if you ever get the chance don't pass it up!

Clark

[AbbyBurkle]

The guinea pig menu picture made me die inside.

[Clark White]

The guinea pig menu picture made me die inside.

Haha! I actually thought of you when I was posting that picture. I haven't seen one yet, but apparently guinea pig's are wild down here.

Clark

[Clark White]

Totally forgot I have some pictures of Arequipa. My Dad has a work associate who lives here, so even though he is away on a project his wife was kind enough to show me around town yesterday afternoon. We had lunch, which for me was alpaca and some white stuff in place of rice (no idea what it's called, but it was amazing!) I will post the name when I find it. We then toured the city, seeing much more then I would have known to see on my own.

Alex headed out to find a new tire (no success...)
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-HHqt4vX/0/L/DSC5795-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766166243&k=HHqt4vX&lb=1&s=A)

Bridge built by the same French company that built the Eiffel Tower. I failed to get a good shot of it, but it was an odd construction, quite interesting to study!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-shGD2kc/0/L/DSC5796-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766166635&k=shGD2kc&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-gZ8bH9p/0/L/DSC5801-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766166819&k=gZ8bH9p&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-WpW4sQp/0/L/DSC5803-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766167142&k=WpW4sQp&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-NGBVkGb/0/L/DSC5804-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766167471&k=NGBVkGb&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-kbqMvzp/0/L/DSC5805-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766167772&k=kbqMvzp&lb=1&s=A)

The church Karla and her husband Jonathan were married in
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-5MXZhg4/0/L/DSC5807-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766168507&k=5MXZhg4&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-x3sb7B6/0/L/DSC5809-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766168790&k=x3sb7B6&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-mcsWPWk/0/L/DSC5810-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766169357&k=mcsWPWk&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-Wr2gC6G/0/L/DSC5812-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766169572&k=Wr2gC6G&lb=1&s=A)

Karla and I
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-zPDpFxD/0/L/DSC5813-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766169880&k=zPDpFxD&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-sdRBb9N/0/L/DSC5817-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766170092&k=sdRBb9N&lb=1&s=A)

Parque Grau, closed and not maintained anymore. Karla wasn't sure why it was closed, and it is a shame as it looks like a wonderful park!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/i-ZH37b4V/0/L/DSC5820-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Peru/22027581_C4JfZt#!i=1766170502&k=ZH37b4V&lb=1&s=A)

[Clark White]

The side to my alpaca was quinoa, cooked up with milk and cheese. No idea if I can get it in the states, but it is simply amazing done the way I had it!

Clark

[1leglance]

Dang I wish I had known you were going to spend some time in Arequipa as that is where my wife is from and we have plenty of family there. Her family has a big farm and does wine & pisco (they have won awards for that) along with honey (very dark and yummy) and cuy (guinea pigs).
The cuy is great fried and on your plate like road kill. For good luck you find the ear bone and drop it in your beer (kind of like our wishbone thing).
Quinoa is aval at health food places here in the US and any latin american market....very healthy stuff.

On the food front my kids love pollo a la braza (roasted chicken & french fries) from El Pollo Royal.

When you get back to Prescott we will have you down to Phoenix and my wife can cook up some great Peruvian food to bring back the memories.

[Clark White]

When you get back to Prescott we will have you down to Phoenix and my wife can cook up some great Peruvian food to bring back the memories.

Sounds like a deal to me! End of April beginning of May is my goal, we will see if I can swing that!

Clark

[Clark White]

Clark White what a click, fabulous! Each and every pic clicked by you are too good. Seems you had great fun there.

Thanks angelofulton!

[MattScott]

Clark,

I'd like to see how you react to fried carter.

Monster.

YOU KNOW WHY, YOU KNOW WHY!

[MattScott]

Haha! I actually thought of you when I was posting that picture. I haven't seen one yet, but apparently guinea pig's are wild down here.

Clark

Steal all of them and bring them to safety.

[zeke2.0]

The side to my alpaca was quinoa, cooked up with milk and cheese. No idea if I can get it in the states, but it is simply amazing done the way I had it!

Clark
You can get quinoa in the states. Whole Foods and Costco carry it, Wegmans too.

[Clark White]

You can get quinoa in the states. Whole Foods and Costco carry it, Wegmans too.

Definitely going to have to get some, it was amazing!

Here is the link for the story of our 2 hour ride to Canon del Colca, enjoy!

http://www.expeditionportal.com/adventures/featured-adventures/938-a-short-detour-turns-long-in-canon-de-colca.html

Clark

[Clark White]

This beautiful country, and makes for great camp sites! No promises on further writeup's for a while, internet is becoming scarse, and I'm able to camp regularly now, but another couple weeks and I think I shall be home with steady internet all day and night to get caught up!

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-6httLcW/0/L/DSC5879-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774856352&k=6httLcW&lb=1&s=A)

Clark

[Every Miles A Memory]

Cool Picture!

[Clark White]

Cool Picture!

Thanks! I have a couple more of that night, but I don't want to post too many and ruin the writeup when I get to it! Staying in San Juan tonight and tomorrow night, so cross your fingers and maybe I'll get it written!

Clark

[MattScott]

How are the Alpacas in Argentina?

[Clark White]

Alpaca's are EVERYWHERE! Except along the road, so not many pictures, sorry! But, there will be a few in here...

I completely forgot to post a link to the article on Canon del Colca, so here it is!
http://www.expeditionportal.com/adventures/featured-adventures/938-a-short-detour-turns-long-in-canon-de-colca.html

So I left off in Arequipa. From there, Alex and I headed for Tacna, where we spent the night and looked for a new set of tires for Alex. We then crossed into Chile, and spent the day looking for tires in Arica, where we spent another night. The plan, regardless of not finding tires, was to ride up to Parque National Lauca, and head south to Reserva National las Vicunas where we would camp. Well that didn't happen...Alex's bike started having issues, and needed to be worked on before we went into such a remote place, and I didn't feel comfortable riding into such remoteness solo in the rainy season. Back to Arica, we went to find a mechanic. A couple hours or searching turned up nothing, so we spent the night in Arica again. Alex needed to go to Iquique to look for a mechanic there, and I made the to decision to just head south. While I am not going to skip the highlights of this trip, I am admittedly missing things like Ustadza, the Mongrel, and Mom, so I don't want to move slow anymore.

Really really really random chair in the middle of absolutely nowhere on the way to PN Lauca
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-Lw6rRSb/0/L/DSC5851-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1771269772&k=Lw6rRSb&lb=1&s=A)

The area around he chair...
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-vKwX6Gh/0/L/DSC5853-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1771356450&k=vKwX6Gh&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-VSK8vfP/0/L/DSC5855-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1771356516&k=VSK8vfP&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-FW8Q2nB/0/L/DSC5856-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1771356586&k=FW8Q2nB&lb=1&s=A)

Looking at PN Lauca in the distance
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-V2RQH3D/0/L/DSC5834-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1771355941&k=V2RQH3D&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-gVN9Bw5/0/L/DSC5829-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1771355995&k=gVN9Bw5&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-7d8mkF4/0/L/DSC5846-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1771356323&k=7d8mkF4&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-jcrnXTD/0/L/DSC5848-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1771356369&k=jcrnXTD&lb=1&s=A)

Alex and I split ways, and I made good time headed for San Pedro de Atacama. Enroute I lost my tent, but got lucky and when I turned around to try and find it, a trucker recognized the identical dry bag on the other side of my bike, flagged me down, and returned my tent! That cost me a fair amount of time however, so I wound up camping near SP de Atacama, rather then up on one of the high passes just short of Argentina.

Traffic along the highway to SP de Atacama
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-KmZxMdp/0/L/DSC5857-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774850206&k=KmZxMdp&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-br5M5jJ/0/L/DSC5859-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774851988&k=br5M5jJ&lb=1&s=A)

Despite not being quite as remote as I had hoped, it was a beautiful night!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-2mHwdFT/0/L/DSC5868-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774853075&k=2mHwdFT&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-tTpdNFM/0/L/DSC5875-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774854261&k=tTpdNFM&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-6httLcW/0/L/DSC5879-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774856352&k=6httLcW&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-3zgtL6C/0/L/DSC5881-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774858598&k=3zgtL6C&lb=1&s=A)

Looking into Bolivia the next day climbing towards Paso Jama into Argentina
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-jgSJNF5/0/L/DSC5886-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774862067&k=jgSJNF5&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-nBMKZsk/0/L/DSC5888-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774882120&k=nBMKZsk&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-MQZ7LRt/0/L/DSC5889-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774883454&k=MQZ7LRt&lb=1&s=A)

Loooooooooooooong road to Argentina
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-jNtFt8G/0/L/DSC5891-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774884969&k=jNtFt8G&lb=1&s=A)

Wild life along the way...this is for you Matt and Abby!
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-9VWWch9/0/L/DSC5894-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1774886791&k=9VWWch9&lb=1&s=A)

After I crossed into Argentina I simply rolled on the throttle along Ruta 40. Two more days and I am now in San Juan staying with some friends. The ride down here was incredibly beautiful, but due to clouds, dust, and a strong right wrist, I only took two photos of the impressively Arizona like landscape.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-BqK4NkR/0/L/DSC5910-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1778700212&k=BqK4NkR&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-DcS4nkF/0/L/DSC5912-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1778700568&k=DcS4nkF&lb=1&s=A)

Tomorrow I'm off to Santiago de Chile and then two days south to Puerto Mont, where I'll start the Carratera Austrel. If things go to plan, I'll be in Ushuaia by the middle of next week, so everyone cross your fingers I don't have any problems! Probably wont be any significant updates until I reach Buenos Ares, but with even a little bit of luck the pictures should be well worth the wait as this is expected to be the best part of this whole trip!

Clark White

[AbbyBurkle]

Thank you for the alpaca picture :) and beautiful photos, as usual!

[mr_ed]

Looks boss man! Sounds like before your next trip you better build up on a diet of half-cooked food and raw creek water to handle the local cuisine haha.

Speaking of which, the oven guinea pig picture makes me hungry. Might have to swing by Petsmart on the way home...:drool:

Ed

[Clark White]

Looks boss man! Sounds like before your next trip you better build up on a diet of half-cooked food and raw creek water to handle the local cuisine haha.

Speaking of which, the oven guinea pig picture makes me hungry. Might have to swing by Petsmart on the way home...:drool:

Ed

When I saw the $30 prie tag for a plate, I said screw that I'll go spend $5 at PetSmart! That got me smacked many times by the girls...I'll just let them think I was joking so they don't hate me...


Thank you for the alpaca picture :) and beautiful photos, as usual!

You are welcome madam! And thanks!

[mervifwdc]

LOVE your photos! Super stuff!

[Clark White]

Stuck in Puerto Montt due to Easter weekend, but I am at a family bed and breakfast with good internet, so a few more photos!

Antonio and his wife Eliana in San Juan. They were kind enough to put me up for two nights, and helped me out with finding a place with my oil filter.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-rp6PTNB/0/L/DSC5914-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1783779520&k=rp6PTNB&lb=1&s=A)

Looking back into Argentina from the pass between Mendoza and Santiago
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-H8dfVcp/0/L/DSC5917-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1783779664&k=H8dfVcp&lb=1&s=A)

Cero Aconcagua
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-qQxKxmx/0/L/DSC5919-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1783779816&k=qQxKxmx&lb=1&s=A)

I crossed back into Chile to ride the Carretera Austral, but have been stopped at Puerto Montt. I took a stroll today, but given the rain and clouds I only got a few pictures.
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-svBwfdq/0/L/DSC5920-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1783781036&k=svBwfdq&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-wmgFFJ3/0/L/DSC5922-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1783781146&k=wmgFFJ3&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-cLnQpdt/0/L/DSC5930-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1783781214&k=cLnQpdt&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-BrnvC8C/0/L/DSC5931-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1783781336&k=BrnvC8C&lb=1&s=A)

Flowers outside the great little bed and breakfast kind of place I am staying in
http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/i-Qpc6z48/0/L/DSC5937-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Chile/22180942_kPjprF#!i=1783781510&k=Qpc6z48&lb=1&s=A)

I'm going to cross back into Argentina tomorrow. Depending on weather I'll either stick to the pavement in Argentina or cross back into Chile and ride the Carretera Austral.

Clark

[Every Miles A Memory]

Great updates!

[Clark White]

USHUAIA!!!!!!!!

[Christian P.]

USHUAIA!!!!!!!!

CONGRATS!!! Damn that seems like you just left last month...where does the time go!

[Clark White]

Well the bike is palletized, windshield, mirrors, and front tire removed to make it smaller, and it cost $1640, $350USD less then I was quoted as the average for my size bike...the extra work making it smaller was well worth the effort! Got a flight landing in Phoenix at 1pm Tuesday for only $930, half what I expected to pay, score!

Clark

[crawler#976]

Safe travels buddy! Hope to hear some of your adventurers around a fire this summer!

[Clark White]

So this is far from a proper update, but I managed to get all my pictures edited today, so at least that is something! Obviously I made it to Ushuaia and back up, stopping at Punta Tombo and the penguin colony, and am now sitting in Buenos Aires waiting for my flight home on Monday, the bike already being all crated up and awaiting it's own flight to Phoenix Monday. Here are some of my photo's from the last few weeks since I did a proper update though, so at least is some new content in here to look at!

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-5hvvpHm/0/L/DSC5955-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805572115&k=5hvvpHm&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-dqxv37X/0/L/DSC5959-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805572567&k=dqxv37X&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-6MvmQHM/0/L/DSC5966-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805572646&k=6MvmQHM&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-tmnhmLj/0/L/DSC6096-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805574373&k=tmnhmLj&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-2WvcHjL/0/L/DSC6107-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805574520&k=2WvcHjL&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-4nmzqz4/0/L/DSC6151-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805575775&k=4nmzqz4&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-NWdQ3tX/0/L/DSC6158-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805576135&k=NWdQ3tX&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-BpG7CdW/0/L/DSC6159-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805576339&k=BpG7CdW&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-bmcTqf5/0/L/DSC6164-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805576488&k=bmcTqf5&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-L26HPnD/0/L/DSC6189-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805578012&k=L26HPnD&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-5tFxGJB/0/L/DSC6200-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805579377&k=5tFxGJB&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-FJFNscD/0/L/DSC6207-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805579817&k=FJFNscD&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-ZSfVDKD/0/L/DSC6210-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805579954&k=ZSfVDKD&lb=1&s=A)

http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/i-7BC9hJb/0/L/DSC6211-L.jpg (http://clarkwhite.smugmug.com/Travel/Argentina/22264403_MnLnTj#!i=1805580142&k=7BC9hJb&lb=1&s=A)

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