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Safari Snorkel Install Questions for Second Generation Tacoma
I just received delivery of a snorkel from Cruiser Outfitters (Thanks Kurt!), and have read over the mounting instructions created by Cruiser Outfitters and TacoDoc (Thanks guys!).
The directions are really straightforward, and installing the snorkel itself seems like a detailed but not overly difficult task. I am more curious about the portion of the install where the snorkel is connected to the air intake on the engine. This may vary slightlty from truck to truck, but generally a custom connection needs to me made from the rubber snorkel elbow to the airbox (air filter) housing.
From combing the different forums, it seems there are three main way to do this (thank you to those that have posted pics of your install, I have borrowed some below)
1)Use TacoDoc's method and have a peice of exhaust piping bent with two 45 degree bends to connect from the rubber elbow to the air box:
2)The Streakerfreak method. A method that retains the factory air hose and cut the hose off just after the resonator box. Then use a piece of straight exhaust tube to connect between the rubber elbow and the factory air hose. This pic is from Streakerfreaks build page- thank you for posting the pic!
3)Retain the factory air hose and resonator box and cut the tip off the fender end of the resonator box leaving enough of the tip of the box to attach the rubber elbow from the snorkel. This would retain almost all of the factory air assemble and resonator box.
Questions:
1)Is there a "performance benefit" to using as direct pipe (i.e. smoother walled less bends that can take advantage of the "ram air" effect from the snorkel)?
2) I am skeptical of using the plumbing connections as suggested and would probably opt for a silicoln automotive connector like those used to connect mandrels in turbo applications (something like this: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/hoseandclamps.htm ). Not sure how long a plumbing connection from home depot will hold up in my engine bay? any thoughts on this?
3) Does the resonator that is located at the tip of the stock air hose have a function (like and expansion reservior?) that would be worth retaining?
4) On a different subject, has anyone thought of cutting a piece of reinforced rubber gasket material (like what is used on flanges in commercial/utility plubming applications) to match the backside shape of the brackett that is bolted to the windsheild pillar to better seal up the connection between the brackett and the pillar? I have seen where some have applied silicone here but that would break down quickly and start to peel.
I am about to start the install, and am collecting parts. I am leaning towards option #3 above to retain the factory resonator. Howevor if option #1 above will enhance performance I may have a stainless steel peice bent or order one from a turbo shop online and cut it down to fit.
Thoughts?
I just received delivery of a snorkel from Cruiser Outfitters (Thanks Kurt!), and have read over the mounting instructions created by Cruiser Outfitters and TacoDoc (Thanks guys!).
The directions are really straightforward, and installing the snorkel itself seems like a detailed but not overly difficult task. I am more curious about the portion of the install where the snorkel is connected to the air intake on the engine. This may vary slightlty from truck to truck, but generally a custom connection needs to me made from the rubber snorkel elbow to the airbox (air filter) housing.
From combing the different forums, it seems there are three main way to do this (thank you to those that have posted pics of your install, I have borrowed some below)
1)Use TacoDoc's method and have a peice of exhaust piping bent with two 45 degree bends to connect from the rubber elbow to the air box:
2)The Streakerfreak method. A method that retains the factory air hose and cut the hose off just after the resonator box. Then use a piece of straight exhaust tube to connect between the rubber elbow and the factory air hose. This pic is from Streakerfreaks build page- thank you for posting the pic!
3)Retain the factory air hose and resonator box and cut the tip off the fender end of the resonator box leaving enough of the tip of the box to attach the rubber elbow from the snorkel. This would retain almost all of the factory air assemble and resonator box.
Questions:
1)Is there a "performance benefit" to using as direct pipe (i.e. smoother walled less bends that can take advantage of the "ram air" effect from the snorkel)?
2) I am skeptical of using the plumbing connections as suggested and would probably opt for a silicoln automotive connector like those used to connect mandrels in turbo applications (something like this: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/hoseandclamps.htm ). Not sure how long a plumbing connection from home depot will hold up in my engine bay? any thoughts on this?
3) Does the resonator that is located at the tip of the stock air hose have a function (like and expansion reservior?) that would be worth retaining?
4) On a different subject, has anyone thought of cutting a piece of reinforced rubber gasket material (like what is used on flanges in commercial/utility plubming applications) to match the backside shape of the brackett that is bolted to the windsheild pillar to better seal up the connection between the brackett and the pillar? I have seen where some have applied silicone here but that would break down quickly and start to peel.
I am about to start the install, and am collecting parts. I am leaning towards option #3 above to retain the factory resonator. Howevor if option #1 above will enhance performance I may have a stainless steel peice bent or order one from a turbo shop online and cut it down to fit.
Thoughts?
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