Pan-American Highway: US to Argentina

[zchan88]

My partner and I are currently 7 months in on an 18 month journey to South America. We departed in June of 2011 in our modified Astro Van and have so far survived our trek across the US and the first two months in Mexico. Our goal is to be crossing into Belize in February and into South America by the end of April. So far our journey has brought few headaches and an endless supply of memorable moments. Some of which would not have been possible without this forum and those who so passionately feed its pool of knowledge.

The trip was in the works for a little more than a year prior to our departure. During which, I used input from the forum to determine the right vehicle choice.

Vehicle Decision (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/47415-Vehicle-Decision-for-Pan-Am-Trek?highlight=)

We've also been offered beds to sleep in and recommended shops to have work done through this portal. It has so far served as a great resource and we will continue to take advantage of the community whenever possible. In return if anyone has any questions or comments please feel free to shoot them over.

We keep a blog at

www.anywherethatswild.org (http://www.anywherethatswild.org/)

Thanks everyone!

[roboter]

Great adventure! We'll be watching!

[haven]

Have you decided how to ship to South America?

[zchan88]

We haven't decided on any details - which company, exact dates, etc. We plan to ship from Colon, Panama to Cartagena, Colombia at the end of April and hope to share a cargo container with other travelers to reduce the costs. We'll definitely post more when we have the details!

[NothingClever]

...ship from Colon, Panama to Cartagena, ColOmbia at the end of....

Might be good to know the difference :D .

[RusherRacing]

great writing. Thanks for sharing your blog

[defrag4]

Following along buddy, Get some pictures up here!

[zchan88]

82835
Entering into Yellowstone from the east along Buffalo Bill Reservoir.


82836
A view of the Tetons from our FREE campsite in the National Forest just outside of the NP.


82837
Spaghetti dinner in Idaho


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Beartooth highway


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Another shot in the Beartooths, this was some of the most beautiful stretch of highway we saw.


82840
Fort Stevens State Park outside Astoria, OR


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Avenue of the Giants in Northern California


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Camping spot on Highway 1 north of SF


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Lombard Street


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Preparing another meal along highway 1, right up there with the Beartooth Highway

[zchan88]

82845
Driving through a couple of sequoias in either King's Canyon or Sequoia NP.


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Pirate camping along Glen Canyon Rec Area.


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Sun setting just outside of Arches in Utah.


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Near Ensenada, our first night south of the boarder.


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Another beach side camping spot on Baja.


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Not a place the big rigs would have been able to handle.


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Punta Chivato on the Baja.


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Another shot on the Baja.

[defrag4]

All awesome places, We visited most of them on our trip as well. Where are you guys now?

[Detslider]

Enjoying your blog.
What kind of MPG are you getting from the van?

I looked at the water hand pump you are using as well (can't remember the brand right now) holy crap that thing is expensive for what it is. Is it worth it?
For about the same price one could get a larger frontrunner tank.

[zchan88]

Enjoying your blog.
What kind of MPG are you getting from the van?

I looked at the water hand pump you are using as well (can't remember the brand right now) holy crap that thing is expensive for what it is. Is it worth it?
For about the same price one could get a larger frontrunner tank.

We're getting an average of 13.9 MPG.

The hand pump works great. To be honest, I never knew how much the thing cost. I just looked it up and it's safe to say they're aiming for people who spend other people's money, engineers for example. That's too bad because it's a cool little product. Fits an assortment of different containers with an expanding gasket mechanism, it's quick, it's easy, but yeah, no way I'd be able to rationalize paying what they're asking.

[zchan88]

All awesome places, We visited most of them on our trip as well. Where are you guys now?

We're in Palenque (http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0XCH4UDa88fmcEQsTZatgVVVz0p8yBE bt) right now, on our way to cross into Belize by the end of next week.

[defrag4]

Sounds like were on the same schedule, set to cross into Belize next week as well! In Cancun right now

[zchan88]

After travelling through Northern and Central Mexico, entering the state of Oaxaca was like entering a whole new country. We began seeing signs of a culture different than any we had previously experienced. Oaxaca marked our entry into Zapatec country. No experience better encompassed the most notable differences than a walk through the city market. The produce stands carry a number of new and strange items, the tortillas have doubled in size and are fried and stuffed with an assortment of delicious fillings and amidst the hum of the market we overheard languages that were neither English nor Spanish. The metropolis acts as a magnet drawing in all of the regional specialties that left Jill and I overwhelmed with new foods to try and shops to peruse.

One of the many foodstuffs Oaxaca is known for is chocolate. Throughout the city we stumbled upon a chocolate store here and there, but it was when we walked down the street on the south side of the market that it was clear we were in a chocolate lover’s paradise. The street is lined with chocolate shop after chocolate shop, each one adding to the sweet chocolate aroma that overwhelmed any other city scents that may have been floating through the air. Each shop had, in addition to a plethora of chocolate related products, anywhere from 1 to 5 dishwasher sized grinders. One could choose the additives and proportions desired (2 part cocoa, 1 part sugar, a bit of cinnamon, some nutmeg and a few vanilla beans, for example) and out comes a liquid that quickly thickens and can be used in moles, hot chocolate, or to simply add some walnuts and cool. One night, Jill and I found ourselves pulled back to chocolate row where we indulged in an after dinner hot chocolate. Prepared with milk, and whipped just enough to give the cup a nice frothy head, the moment the rim touched my lips I knew that Swiss Miss would forever be coupled with feelings of disappointment.

No longer is tequila the liquor of choice. Now, when we go into liquor stores it is mezcal that line the shelves. As I mentioned in my tequila post mezcal is the whiskey to tequila’s bourbon, and at times I could not tell the difference between the two. One noticeable difference, however, is that mezcal is often bottled with a moth larvae that inevitably sinks to the bottom. This “worm” gives the mezcal a distinct smokiness that quickly grew on us and made the transition from tequila an easy one.

The large corn tortillas sold at the markets are called tlayudas and are a specialty in this region of Mexico. Like a Mexican calzone, a tlayuda can come with any number of different toppings, folded in half and fried in asiento (pig fat sounds nicer in Spanish). Jill and I made an attempt to make some back at the van but unfortunately learned it is best to leave it to the professionals. At the edge of the market we could find women selling pre-prepared tlayudas, and even though it had been hours since it was pulled from the fryer, it was still ten times better than what we had made back at the van. And despite the low price of $1, it was more than enough food to constitute a meal. In what has become an annoying theme of our journey, just as I fall in love with a new food, its regionalism prevents it from becoming a long term habit.

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In front of the museum/old convent were armies of these funky looking drip people.

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A Oaxacan delicacy, crickets. Buy 'em by the kilo


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We ran across a Mezcal factory still making the stuff the old fashioned way. Mules pull that big wheel around in circles crushing the agave pinas.

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Looking back at the fire tower we'd be climbing outside of Oaxaca.

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Century plant on steroids. If you've ever seen the ones in the southwest, these are about 4 times bigger.


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A tlayuda.

[roboter]

Excellent photos! Mexico gets interesting the further south you go. We are all at the edge of our chairs awaiting your border crossing experiences in Central America..... We might see you in South America later this year, as we plan on making a loop throughout SA for the next year or more. Enjoy and safe travels!

The Garrett's

[zchan88]

Prioritizing documenting over travelling has always proven difficult to us. However, although we lag quite a bit, we try not to miss too much. I finally had a chance to sit down and write a few thoughts I had on travelling through Mexico (http://www.anywherethatswild.org/?p=1312). There's an excerpt below along with some pics from southern Mexico, between Pelenque and Chetumal. If anyone has any additional thoughts or discussion on experiences in Mexico versus the perception of Mexico we have in the states let us know.


When our trip was in the early stages of planning our timeline was frequently debated. Unlike me, Jill had the advantage of a reference point. She had spent many hours on other travelers’ blogs and had a feel for a slow pace versus a quick pace. Envisioning what kind of travelers we would find ourselves to be Jill estimated accordingly. I on the other hand was shooting blind. And as is often the case, this did not stop me from defending my position fervently. I saw Jill’s position of allotting three months for Mexico as a gross overestimate. I considered the country a hurdle between us and the rest of our trip. For reasons unknown to me at the time, I found it easier imagining us cracking into cultures in Central America, and saw Mexico as an impenetrable wall. What I later came to realize was that although publicly I spoke skeptically of the perception of Mexico in the US, I was not immune to its influence. A part of me was, and I hate to say it, scared and wanted to get it over with as quickly as possible. Luckily for me, I have a stubborn enough partner who kept faith that once we were into the deep I would come around. And after stepping into our first municipal market, I did.

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Palenque Ruins

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Agua Azul

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Another shot of Agua Azul

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Agua Clara just down the road was worth the stop. We had to pay a couple of different fees to get in, but the water is so cool looking.

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Agua Clara

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One of the worst pot holes we have seen.

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Misol Ha, the waterfall Arnold fell from in Predator. Of course in the movie, he fell off of Misol Ha and ended up in Agua Azul, 10 miles up the road.

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Another shot of the falls. There was a cave you could hike into.

[Wiley]

Oh damn, I didnt make it past Oaxaca, now I you are really making me jelous

[defrag4]

what up dude, where you at now?

[The Rover Shop]

I too travelled through mexico but by motorcycle (ferried from Tampa into the top of the Yucatan rode all the way south and across and then back up into Tijuana and then back across the USA to sth florida...12,000 miles), I was totally amazed at how different the perception of Mexico is in the USA to the reality, I never once felt threatened or scared and the food was fabulous..I absolutely LOVED it and hope to go back again someday.. If you are out of Mexico already I hope you stopped in at Puerto Escondido....was probably one of the highlights of my trip through there

[BeratE]

Great to read about your adventures, thanks! Love what you did with the van, and I am impressed the mileage that you are getting. If you don't mind, do you know what the cost was for the van and all of the mods? I am building up a Tacoma and would be curious to compare.

Have a blast!

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

I'm really enjoying your trip Blog. The honesty, your writing style etc., it's currently in my top three travel Blogs.

After the previous comment regarding your water pump, it's very easy for me to justify the expense. The "Goat Throat" is a brand I was unaware of, but after researching it's capabilities along with the ability to be rebuilt make it worth it. It's a lifetime pump used in our application. It's the Land Cruiser of the pump world. I know they make a wide variety of buttress adapters, if they have one that will fit a Scepter water can, it'll be one of my next purchases. A little more research reveals they do make a Scepter fitting. 5G-SGC-GT for Scepter Gas Cans.

I have a few questions about some of your mods; Does the "Zombie" expanded steel over your windows make it feel like the all too unpleasant trip to County lock up, or does your system finally accept it and you hardly notice it from inside the van?

The LCD monitor, and please forgive me if this is already posted somewhere, but is it for editing your images or watching? How often have you guys used it, is it something you would add again?

What would you change either adding or deleting to your van, are you guys still pleased with the vehicle selection?

[zchan88]

Great to read about your adventures, thanks! Love what you did with the van, and I am impressed the mileage that you are getting. If you don't mind, do you know what the cost was for the van and all of the mods? I am building up a Tacoma and would be curious to compare.

Have a blast!

I tried to keep track of as much as I could but I'm sure there's a bunch of home depot runs unaccounted for. I separated the costs into build related costs and maintenance I did prior to leaving. All of the maintenance things did not have to be done at the time but I wanted to take care of some easy stuff before hitting the road. Let me know if you need any additional info on any of the line items, and if you've found something dramatically different than what you've found I'd also like to know. Happy hunting. Oh, and also, the van was less than $10K. I plan on selling the whole package eventually at the end of the trip.

96026

[zchan88]

I have a few questions about some of your mods; Does the "Zombie" expanded steel over your windows make it feel like the all too unpleasant trip to County lock up, or does your system finally accept it and you hardly notice it from inside the van?

We hardly notice the steel. It works great for storage as we bungie a bunch of weird shaped hard to store items to them. When we're in the back, it's night time, so we can see out for security reasons if we need to (we added fog lights on the four corners of the van to help us see out, we don't use often but we've found it helps us feel safer if people begin to get curious). Additionally, we hang our curtains up, when that happens it's a mute point. We use a magnet system for the curtains which is made easy by all the steel around. If I installed them again, I'd weld in a frame then bolt the steel to the frame as opposed to welding the steel directly to the car. This would allow us to clean the windows, but it's been 9 months and we don't notice it.

All in all, we've found having it is huge. Not only does it prevent the crime of opportunity, but it's a visual that deters bad ideas. We have some fellow overlanders that added a clear film that apparently makes the windows pretty crack resistant but they would only find this out after giving it a few whacks. With all the places we park the car and sleep, the added peace of mind has allowed us a ton of flexibility in the places we choose to go. Most places I'm sure we'd have no problem, but without the added security, there are a lot of decisions that would be effected. At this point I'm rambling, but this can't be stressed enough, when travelling overland, I think goal is to design the build so that the car itself is never limiting factor in where you choose to go.



The LCD monitor, and please forgive me if this is already posted somewhere, but is it for editing your images or watching? How often have you guys used it, is it something you would add again?

The LCD monitor was for entertainment (movies and such). When we were in Mexico and stayed in RV parks and could plug the car in or in the states when the aux battery was new and could hold a charge we'd use it all the time. Now that we don't have those things we don't use it. It doesn't get in the way, and wasn't a huge expense to begin with, so there isn't too much regret, but over all, unless you have a bank of batteries, or a solar panel it's not worth the energy (pun intended).



What would you change either adding or deleting to your van, are you guys still pleased with the vehicle selection?

Overall very pleased. All of the big things we use more than enough to set off the initial cost/effort. We couldn't live without the lift and big tires, having a nice sized kitchen is huge, and the awning and mosquito net get used frequently (especially now that we're further south). It's not the best traditional overlander as it lacks a good amount of power and low end torque for the amount of weight it's carrying. But I'll be honest, with what we're doing we haven't had a place we wanted to go that the van couldn't take us. We have seen some pretty bad roads, crossed some pretty deep rivers and reached some pretty rural places.

The gas mileage hurts a bit, it would be nice to have something deisel or something that is in the 20's, but in the end, we live very comfortably, and have the ability to sleep discretely and safely. These two things have allowed us to spend the night in some pretty remarkable places. We have pirate camped in every country and with the exception of Mexico I would say it's around 70%. This definitely makes the price at the pump easier to manage.

Something I would add is definitely a solar panel. When designing I figured we'd be moving enough everyday that keeping the battery charged wouldn't be a problem. But we do choose to stay put a lot and it would be nice not having to worry about electricity. We could install it very easily with our smartpass system as it would just plug in and optimize between the alternator and the panel. Plus, we have plenty of space on the roof.

[zchan88]

We ran into some fellow overlanders in a remote section of Belize. A bunch of impressive rigs. We decided to head off and explore the park together. Always more fun in a group.


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Everyone setup at the Barton Creek Outpost


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Driving down the dirt road.


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Crossing the river leaving the outpost.

[defrag4]

hey i know those guys!

[defrag4]

yo zach you think you could fit one of these in your carry-on for me?

http://www.solarblvd.com/p2274/Solar-Cynergy-120-Watt-12-Volt-Solar-Panel/product_info.html

[bansil]

Do the owners of the trooper have a blog?

[zchan88]

yo zach you think you could fit one of these in your carry-on for me?

http://www.solarblvd.com/p2274/Solar-Cynergy-120-Watt-12-Volt-Solar-Panel/product_info.html

I want it!

[zchan88]

Do the owners of the trooper have a blog?

http://headsouth.travellerspoint.com/

[bansil]

Thank you

[zchan88]

Border crossing days can be stressful ones. It’s a day full of unknown variables that no amount of research can entirely prepare you for. Procedures seem to change regularly, new taxes or fees can be attempted to be extracted, lunch breaks can be taken at all hours of the day leaving you stranded until the officer returns, and around every corner are unofficial porters pouncing on even a momentary lapse in confidence offering their services in the hopes of scoring a few bucks. Although porters can make the process easier, and surely cost less than a cheap lunch, have no doubt, it is a form of cheating. Up to this point we have had a few notches on our border crossing bed post but it was Guatemala that taught us some important lessons, lessons that we had to learn the hard way.


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The pyramids rise up at a much steeper incline than others we have seen.


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A shot from where George Lucas set up his 35 mm camera for one of the last shots in Episode IV.

Some of the biggest mistakes were made before our arrival at the border. I realized my first mistake when I awoke between Jill and a bottle of rum which had been significantly heavier the night before. Lesson one, be clear headed. With all of these hurdles at the border you need to have your wits about you. The second lesson learned was due to a mistake of inaction. We had the chance to stop by an ATM prior to crossing the border but decided against it. By our calculations we had just enough to cover all our fees. But as we would later learn something as simple as a difference in a mere $2 for a van versus an automobile was enough to send us wandering around on foot looking for an ATM. The last mistake we made that morning was to simply allow our convoy to go on ahead without us. Crossing with friends doesn’t only cover you for any shortage of funds or lack of research, but it can make a long day that much more tolerable.

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Weather has gotten the best of everything around making carvings rare.



98320

A pyramid in the middle of excavation.


We’ve ironed out a bunch of the wrinkles and now have formed a routine for border crossing days. Plenty of research is done ahead of time, and although different individuals can have different experiences crossing the same border, we try to aggregate as much data as possible. We always try to cross in the morning. Not because it’s guaranteed to be slower, as we’ve found borders can either be slow or busy at any time of day, but because angst is low. If we hit an unexpected speed bump, it’s less stressful when we've got a jump on the day and are playing with house money to begin with. Our mantra is ‘relax, it’s early’. We carry extra US dollars on us to cover any currency shortage. The goal is to end up at the border with as little currency left over as possible since you get killed by the exchange rates when you leave, this way we’re still covered. Last but not least, we wear synthetics. It may sound stupid, but it’s always hot, and lack of comfort can without a doubt add to the stress level. Now if we had only mastered these things prior to Guatemala we wouldn’t have gotten off on the wrong foot. But by the end of the day we reconvened with our convoy on the doorsteps of Tikal with memories of the border quickly fading and the prospects of a new country and culture before us.



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A panorama from atop the opposing pyramid.

[zchan88]

There are basically two routes you can take if you’re trying to drive directly from Tikal in the north to Semuc Champey in central Guatemala. According to our map the most direct route was a skinny little red line, indicating a secondary road, and a more roundabout fat blue line indicating a nice paved two lane road. We decided to try to make the drive in only one day and thus did not want to take our chances on the skinny red line, despite it being a shorter distance. We aimed for the fat blue line and by mid afternoon we were making good time. At this point, we were supposed to stop driving south and catch a road to head west. Thinking we were looking for another fat blue line of a road we easily sped past the sleepy little town of Modesto Mendez. Once we realized we had possibly gone too far we double backed passing the turnoff once more. Without a decent map, and struggling to understand the directions given to us by the locals, we would waste the valuable daylight we had left searching for this supposed fat blue line. When we finally found the road it became apparent why we were able to drive past it four times. The road was dirt, wider than one lane but not by much, and ravaged by the previous rainy season. Using the last of our daylight we were lead further and further into the countryside away from civilization. Over the first hour we were unable to bring the speedometer past the 20 miles per hour mark and had to admit to ourselves that we had a very long drive ahead of us. Darkness was quickly upon us and without a place to park we had to start weighing our options. We still hadn’t eaten dinner and cooking on the side of the road did not sound appealing. Then it started to rain.


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In northern Guatemala we found a ton of open space.


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Impressive doesn't begin to describe some of the things you see people carrying on their backs and heads.


Eyeing every dirt road as a possible hiding place Jill spotted a small weathered sign where she could barely make out the word Balneario. Remembering that the word meant something along the lines of resort or spa we decided we would see where the road takes us. We drove down the dirt road which was pinned tightly between two fences not leaving any room to pull over the van. A mile in the road finally opened up to a small clearing with plenty of flat ground to park the car. There was no resort but a public swimming hole with a pedestrian bridge crossing the river. We even spotted a roofed structure big enough to park the van under saving us from having to bother with the awning or tromp around in the mud while preparing dinner. Just when we least expected it our luck turned 180°, and the long drive that was before considered to be a huge inconvenience quickly turned into an opportunity. The words are said often, but that does not mean that in moments of frustration you don’t have to be reminded. When our fate changed course we accepted that we might not be getting to our destination any time soon, and remembered that the drive in of itself is the destination.

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The shelter we used that was practically designed for big blue.


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The mysterious dirt road that ended up leading us to the Balneario.


We woke up early the next morning and continued our drive to Semuc Champey. The road we traveled along continued to contradict the map and its condition only got worse. At one point we passed a road construction site with a sign indicating the road would be closed to all traffic heading in our direction until the following day. Since we hadn’t passed any traffic in either direction for over an hour we hesitantly decided to drive a bit further. We’re glad we did as we soon realized no one was complying with the sign. The road was one lane and only sporadically allowed enough room for two cars to pass each other. Often we were met by a truck or bus in the oncoming direction causing either of us to retreat in order to get by. The fog was so thick that at times visibility was cut down to less than 15 feet forcing us to drive even slower than the road was allowing. Our one day drive turned out to be the better part of two days, and although at times was stressful, the places it took us through was worth the effort. We saw tiny little communities untouched by outside influences that seemed to be stationary in time. The road, with its deep pot holes, muddy tracks, and vertical grades put Marge to the test, but at no point did she complain or refuse to do what was asked. When the road finally did end, at the gates of Semuc Champey late in the afternoon on day two, we felt accomplished. Whether the park proved to be worth the drive or not at that point didn’t matter. We knew that the drive itself would become the memory that dominates these few days.


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Marge making her way around the bend.


Semuc Champey, tucked deep in the jungle, is one of the most famous natural wonders in Guatemala. From above you can see a series of blue and green pools bordered by bright green algae. The pools are formed out of a natural limestone bridge, hiding beneath it a raging river which dives below ground and travels through a cave before pouring out the other side of the pools. When we learned they would charge us a bit more than we were expecting to stay overnight in the parking lot, we decided to shop around at some of the hotels nearby. We ended up less than 50 yards down the road in the front yard of a family who ran a small eco-hotel overlooking the river. They insisted that we would not be imposing and only asked the equivalent of less than $3 for the service. Their kids, taking after the entrepreneurial spirit of their parents, wasted no time trying to sell us little homemade chocolates flavored with vanilla, cinnamon, or cardamom. I spotted the mother looking on from afar keeping an eye on her children. She reached up to the tree she was leaning against and grab a purple looking fruit the size of a small football. She handed it to one of her daughters who ran it over to us. When she handed it to me she gave a big toothless grin and said “cacoa.” I returned the smile, took the fruit from her and confidently began trying to open it up with my trusty leatherman. After struggling for about a minute trying to open up the thick hard shell, the little girl grabbed it from me, dropped to her knees and with one hard smack to a rock cracked it open. A little embarrassed I noticed the mom couldn’t resist letting out a little chuckle. Inside the fruit were seeds, each one covered by a white pulp that could be eaten and was super sweet. The kids knew their mark and easily sold us most of their chocolate.


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Just a taste of the conditions of the roads we traversed in and around Semuc Champey.


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The girl who helped me open the cacao pod and her sister.


The following day we made our way into the park. We hiked high up above the pools and swam in the turquoise water. As we poked our heads over the edge of the pools to the entrance of the cave and saw the river plunge into an abyss I realized how unique a geologic feature this was. In the back of my mind, however, I was still thinking about the drive, and the fact that later that day we get to do it all over again on our way out.


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The river roared underground beneath the pools above.


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Arial shot of the pools of Semuc Champey.

[defrag4]

nice shot of Blue on the Guat hillside