M416 lid hinge Pics please

[Mayne]

I would love to see how the folks who have mounted lids on their M416s worked out the hinges. I'm having a little trouble visualizing how that would work out on mine, and I was hoping someone could take a few close pics of the hinge set up that they worked out.

Thanks muchly

Mayne

[Jeepcrz]

I am about complete with my M416 lid build. I'll try to take a photo in the next day or so. I'll try to explain what I did. I purchased 1"x1" steel square tubing I think it was 16 gauge (thick enough to drill and tap a 1/4 28 screw) and I screwed it tightly up against the bottom surface of the round tube that goes around the perimeter of the tub. I used seven 1/4 28 screws, I drilled and tapped, then I put 4 hinges each 3" tall by 4" long and drilled and tapped into the 1"x1" tubing under the tube lip and then drilled holes thru for the lid.

I'll get pictures by Saturday morning of what I did.
Jeepcrz

[CodyLX450]

Id like to get some pics too for ideas before I head off to the local fab shop for my M100 lid.

[Desertdude]

I used a steel 1"X1" piano hinge - Riveted and welded on the ends

Close up (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3782&d=1160576192)

A few other photos here (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2681)

[CodyLX450]

DD,

I notice you have metal bars on top of the lid that you mount the RTT to.

The lid itself seems pretty easy to have someone make a similar design for. How do you have the rack on top of the lid installed? In your Pismo pic, it looks like it may just be bolted onto the lid somehow?

[Desertdude]

I made small feet for it - its bolted down through the sheet steel into the 1" square tube frame - It can hold a bunch of weight ( I've carried logs on the tent mounts)

[CodyLX450]

Some questions about this pic...

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3784&d=1160576208

Are the 2nd and 4th crossmembers (from Left to Right) closer together for the spacing on the "feet" for the top rack?

Is the bar inside of the tub attached still, and if so...reason?

[Desertdude]

the cross members where designed to hold the rack - the center one holds the slam latch in between it - the bar inside was there as a temp spreader

[Mayne]

Thanks for the replies and the pic's, there are some fabulous trailers floating around this site. I like what you did on the M1o1 Desertdude, I'd go that route too, but the tube stock on my M416 is round, that is what's kinda throwing me a curve ball.
Any ideas how I might be able to get around this?

Thanks again
Mayne

[Desertdude]

If your not to concerned about welding to it. You could take angle steel and create a flat edge over the top of the round tube. Welding all the corners and on the inside lower and outside edge.

http://idisk.mac.com/desertdude-Public/Portalwebphotos/mini.angle_edge.jpg

[gpwpat]

That is what I did. top just rides on the trailer. for a hinge. however it needs to be locked on. or the gas springs will lift the hinge apart when closed.


http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/DSC05110.JPG

[Desertdude]

...I should ad, I would then weld or rivet the piano hinge(if using one) to the flat angle ;)

[Willman]

I am about complete with my M416 lid build. I'll try to take a photo in the next day or so. I'll try to explain what I did. I purchased 1"x1" steel square tubing I think it was 16 gauge (thick enough to drill and tap a 1/4 28 screw) and I screwed it tightly up against the bottom surface of the round tube that goes around the perimeter of the tub. I used seven 1/4 28 screws, I drilled and tapped, then I put 4 hinges each 3" tall by 4" long and drilled and tapped into the 1"x1" tubing under the tube lip and then drilled holes thru for the lid.

I'll get pictures by Saturday morning of what I did.
Jeepcrz

Welcome to the ExPo


BUMP for some pictures mate!

:chowtime:

[Mayne]

That's brilliant and simple.... Why I could conceptualize that, I'll never know.
Thanks so very much! I will run with that idea there, and maybe a removable hing pin settup. That way I can still haul work duty stuff in the trailer.

Thank you again,

Mayne

[Lawrence]

Here are some pics to a very nicely done one, tailgate and a lid. Not mine.

http://www.blackburnimagery.com/images/trailer2.jpg
http://www.blackburnimagery.com/ssp_director/albums/Trailer_Gallery3/lg/IMG_4653.JPG
http://www.blackburnimagery.com/ssp_director/albums/Trailer_Gallery3/lg/IMG_4652.JPG
http://www.blackburnimagery.com/ssp_director/albums/Trailer_Gallery3/lg/IMG_4660.JPG

The complete build can be found at http://www.blackburnimagery.com/Trailer_cost.html

[highlandercj-7]

That's one sweet mil trailer resto.CLEAN! :)

[Jeepcrz]

Here is the approach that I used for securing my lid to the trailer. Sorry it took so long to get the pictures posted, my vacation got in the way. I posted the materials in an earlier reply.


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1421/1458708552_e03100215a_b.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1227/1457845243_30a4262d9b_b.jpg
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1005/1458700776_ae111f1922_b.jpg

Good luck,
Jeepcrz

[Willman]

Here are some pics to a very nicely done one, tailgate and a lid. Not mine.
The complete build can be found at http://www.blackburnimagery.com/Trailer_cost.html

Thanks for posting this up!!! Very detailed built that i have ever seen!

:)

[Mayne]

Jeepcrz,
I like that, very clean and functional. Very nice trailer as well. I hope that my jalopy will some day look more silk purse, and less sows ear.
Lawrence,
I've admired your build for many moons now, super clean I'd like to know where to pick up the pull pin hinges, I like the idea of easily removing the lid for utility duty.
Thanks for the ideas, I really appreciate it.

Mayne

[Lawrence]

Lawrence,
I've admired your build for many moons now, super clean I'd like to know where to pick up the pull pin hinges, I like the idea of easily removing the lid for utility duty.
Thanks for the ideas, I really appreciate it.

Mayne

Mayne,

As I mentioned in my earlier post, it is not my trailer. When I first saw it I put the site in my favorites as I think it is one of the cleanest restoration I have seen. The owner posted it on jeepsunlimited.com and his name is Scott Blackburn, and his screen name on JU is sblack.

If you dig through his site http://blackburnimagery.com/joomla/ there are a lot of pictures of the project.

Apparently, he does website design for other companies (click on "website design" on the upper part of the screen http://www.blackburnimagery.com/Trailer_cost.html). Try calling one of the businesses and ask them for his contact info.

[ntsqd]

snippage
I'd like to know where to pick up the pull pin hinges, I like the idea of easily removing the lid for utility duty.
Thanks for the ideas, I really appreciate it.

Mayne
Carefully chosen tubing OD & wall thickness will give you what you're after. E.G. 1/2" OD tube with a 1/8" wall thickness yields a 1/4" diameter hole. Note that the ID's are approximate, so shoot for a little small and then you can easily drill it to the size you want.
As opposed to it being a little too big & rattling.

Search McMaster for 'steel tubing' and I think you'll find what you want in a reasonable length & shipped to you.

A source for the latch used in that very clean & nice trailer would be Austin Hardware.

[Mayne]

Thanks, and sorry about the mix up on trailer owners.... that will teach me to reread details.

Cool info on the hinges ntsqd, I'll look them up in the catalog I have at work.

Thanks again everyone:)

[sblackb]

Sounds like you guys have some questions on my build. I just happened to notice the link to my site on the webstats. What's up? How can I help? I love this project and seeing these old rigs restored so let me know if I can help with your project. I even have some spare parts to donate and some good lessons on what not to do.

The hinge pins are from Ace Hardware here in Phoenix, AZ if I remember correctly. They are a bit tight for the sleeves we used, but with a bit of oil and a little use they work fine. I think you can get them from both McMaster and Austin Hardware if you know your exact size.

I learned a lesson about the lift struts the other day. Went to close the lid and one folded in half. With 250 lbs of lift each, it apparently was easier to become a hinge that strut. With a span that long a limiting strap is needed to keep this from happening. A simple loop up and around the underframe of the lid was enough to prevent further issues.

We took the trailer out a few weeks back into the Arizona monsoon slop. Ran perfect. Of course we now haul more crap with us on our trips. Here's a link to the images: http://blackburnimagery.com/postcards/williamstojerome/index.html

Scott

[Airborne Lee]

Sounds like you guys have some questions on my build. I just happened to notice the link to my site on the webstats. What's up? How can I help? I love this project and seeing these old rigs restored so let me know if I can help with your project. I even have some spare parts to donate and some good lessons on what not to do.

The hinge pins are from Ace Hardware here in Phoenix, AZ if I remember correctly. They are a bit tight for the sleeves we used, but with a bit of oil and a little use they work fine. I think you can get them from both McMaster and Austin Hardware if you know your exact size.

I learned a lesson about the lift struts the other day. Went to close the lid and one folded in half. With 250 lbs of lift each, it apparently was easier to become a hinge that strut. With a span that long a limiting strap is needed to keep this from happening. A simple loop up and around the underframe of the lid was enough to prevent further issues.

We took the trailer out a few weeks back into the Arizona monsoon slop. Ran perfect. Of course we now haul more crap with us on our trips. Here's a link to the images: http://blackburnimagery.com/postcards/williamstojerome/index.html

Scott


I'd like to ask you some questions. I had actually seen your site from a link at a different web site. http://vegasauto.net/m416.html.

Following links here got me to your site. I am happy to find you here....

Your top looks totally fabricated from scratch. Is it?
What thickness did you use?
What material did you use for the lid frame?
How much weight will yours hold?

Sorry for the questions but there are so few people who have done this to ask.

Here is my link I just posted today. http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8822

[sblackb]

I'd like to ask you some questions. I had actually seen your site from a link at a different web site. http://vegasauto.net/m416.html.

Following links here got me to your site. I am happy to find you here....

Your top looks totally fabricated from scratch. Is it?
What thickness did you use?
What material did you use for the lid frame?
How much weight will yours hold?

Sorry for the questions but there are so few people who have done this to ask.

Here is my link I just posted today. http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8822

Airborne, great looking trailer. Looks pretty clean too from the pics. Wish mine didn't have so many dents.

I'll try to answer your questions the best I can and feel free to ask me to clarify if you need more details or certain pics.

A buddy of mine did the top for me. It is totally fabbed from scratch. The frame is 1.5" x 2.5" thin walled square stock. Cross braces are made from 3/4" and 1/2" square stock. the larger tube fits over the round rail of the tub (outside perimeter) and the 3/4" cross braces rest on the tub rails. The frame is beefed up with some angle plate where the Yakima rack mounts are attached. I have not tested the useful load of the lid, but figure the weakest part is the Yakima towers. The lid is just steel on steel so there's not a lot of give there. The cover for the lid is 16 gauge aluminum that we had bent and welded at a fab shop. Hard part was finding someone with a brake large enough. Once the shape was right we powder coated it and I laid down pads of clear silicone every 6 inches or so on the frame. I let these dry for several hours to skin over then installed the top, towers, and lock assembly. The goal here was to not have excessive rubbing of metal on metal parts. The downside I'm learning is more dust and mud gets into the tub when you really romp on it. One piece of advice is to not make your tolerances too tight. My lid rubs when you close it and it bugs the crap out of me.

I did a ton of research over on Pete's Vegas Auto site and got lots of feedback from many proud owners before setting out on my version. I still have to install gel cells, the tent system, and a water tank, but that will come later. Let me know if you have any good thoughts on those. Oh, and keep posting us pictures, I'd like to see the progress.

[Airborne Lee]

thank you so much for the info. Do you think your lid will support the weight of people in a tent?

[sblackb]

Airborne,

Yes, I think you would be fine with two average size people, tent system, gear, etc. You could always use some thicker walled stock to beef it up, but really the rack mounting points are the only part that takes the weight. The skin of the lid just keeps out the rain and mud; the whole structure underneath takes all the load and the towers for the rack bolt through the lid. Make your mounting points bombproof and you should be able to carry this cow up there. :cow: .