Roof mounted lights

[pete.wilson]

Hey Guys

I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to run wiring for 4 lights from the roof of my Suburban to the interior compartment. I have thought of drilling a hole in the rails of my existing roof luggage rack and then use silicon to seal; but thought someone else may have a better idea. Maybe some kind of Aicraft bulkhead connector or something? I want it clean, waterproof, and attractive. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the help.

Pete Wilson

[overlander]

I have also been researching this exact issue. I've been looking at marine through-the-hull connections as seeming to be the most feasible. Love to hear what others have come up with that involve through the roof. I'm not interested in running lengthy pieces of wire up the pillars and such. Through the roof (and under the roof rack) in my opinion is the best way of protecting wires from UV exposure and multiple swats of branches/foliage over time.

these military connectors also look at the best solution, but you really have to do your homework to get these right.
http://www.connecticc.com/default.aspx?Page=Military_Connectors

[adventureduo]

I ran just a single hot line up through my pilar and then used a distribution box at the rack. For a ground i used a grounding strap and then grounded the lights to the light tabs. This way i didnt have 8 wires to feed through my roof/pilar/snorkel etc.

[ntsqd]

On my old Sub I used a marine water proof socket & plug for the hot wire. It worked, but the contacts tended to corrode as only the socket was water tight. This time around I think I might go with a marine thru-deck fitting and a Weatherpak or a Deutcsh for disconnect.

[outsidr]

I ran just a single hot line up through my pillar and then used a distribution box at the rack. For a ground i used a grounding strap and then grounded the lights to the light tabs. This way i didn't have 8 wires to feed through my roof/pillar/snorkel etc.

Agreed, I ran a + and - through a small < 3/8" hole in my roof. Used the above daisy chain method for power and sealed the cut with a conduit material and a bung with silicone for topping. It is scary but straightforward . 1yr down no leaks. :D

[offroad_nomad]

I ran my wires down the door weatherstipping into the engine compartment.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/DC_Magoo/Wiring2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v516/DC_Magoo/Wiring.jpg

[pete.wilson]

With using various types of connectors is having the correct crimp tool for the pins which a lot of times is a major expense. I still have Raychem crimpers for enviromental splices which are sealed when done. If I did the daisy chain method, no problem. It's just the thought of drill through that nice steal roof and having potential leaks and/or rust developing later. To run four lights of 55 to 100 watts, what gauge wire did you use? I would think something in the 8-10 gauge range may be sufficient for periodic use, or heavier for constant useage. A small distribution box at the roof rack with fuses would do-able easy enough. Radio shack has some smaller boxes that could be sealed and painted easy enough. If anyone has a pics that may help also. Thanks for the input guys.

Pete

[Lynn]

Why you need a snorkel:

1. dust

2. deep water

3. cable trough



Seriously, if you happen to have a snorkel, how 'bout running your wires from the cab through an existing hole in the firewall, then use your snorkel to route the wires up to your roof rack? The ABS or whatever the snorkel is made of should be easy enough to seal (use cheap and easy bulkhead fittings, if you like), and you certainly wouldn't have to worry about rust around the holes.

Just a thought.

[Frode S]

Darn and Blast!

The snorkel idea is great! And so simple! Makes me feel like a fool not to have thoght of that myself...

[BMAN]

I am also interested in any other "bulkhead" type ideas you all have. I unfortunately will need to run 7 or 8 circuits to the roof on the 60 by the time my build is 100%, and a weathertight through the roof fix would be the best for me.

[ntsqd]

I am also interested in any other "bulkhead" type ideas you all have. I unfortunately will need to run 7 or 8 circuits to the roof on the 60 by the time my build is 100%, and a weathertight through the roof fix would be the best for me.
My suggestion would be to put a jacketed multi-conductor trailer cable (http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L0D57DD3E8929090041BE032+M37+ENG ) thru a water-tight deck fitting like this West Marine product (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/3571/377%20710%201397/712/deck%20fitting/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710%201397&Ne=712&Ntt=deck%20fitting&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=deck%20fitting&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5003&subdeptNum=3&classNum=30) or these McMaster offerings (http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage.aspx?ReqTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=796&RelatedCtlgPgs=795,796,797,798&term=Cord%2bStrain%2bRelief&sesnextrep=604448123792952&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=932). You'll want to seal where the wires break out of the jacket.

[mrstang01]

Pete,

What did you wind up using? I'm getting ready to do this. Unfortunately, many of the links on this thread are dead.

Michael

[eugene]

I just did this myself and used there
http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L0F5D299867257700B4FE091+M37+ENG

search for dome nut if the link doesn't work. The nut you buy a small sealing washer and drill and hole and the washer seals it. then feed your wire through the insert and slide it in and when you screw the dome nut on the top it compresses everything to make a tight seal.

[mrstang01]

I just did this myself and used there
http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L0F5D299867257700B4FE091+M37+ENG

search for dome nut if the link doesn't work.

That looks pretty interesting, hmm, apparently you can't link from their site.

[eugene]

yea I noticed the other links above didn't work either.

You can go to page 105 of their catalog http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog/

and get better pictures there. You get them in different sizes to match the wiring you need to feed though. They are also standard NPT thread so you can go to the hardware store and atach electrical conduit to them if needed.

[evldave]

You could also just run a single main power wire to the roof (like 6 or 8 gauge), hook it to a bunch of relays (in a waterproof box), and then use cat5 cable to 'trigger' the relays - it's a smaller cable and much easier to route into the cab (mine runs through the edge of teh door frame)...the relays I use have a small trigger current, so no issues w/heat, etc...and you can get watertight network connectors which makes it easy to disconnect the roof rack (one main power connector and a cat 5 connector and it's disconnected). Used this on two different vehicles for years and works well..

[mrstang01]

Now that sounds interesting, got any pics?

[eugene]

Or instead of cat 5 order smaller automotive wire, you can get all the way down to 20 gauge. cat 5 and other non automotive wire may not have the anti uv properties or be oil or fuel safe.

[pete.wilson]

Hey

Sorry it took so long for me to get back to this. I mounted my KC Daylighters 100Watt light's to my Garvin rook rack and used a trailer brake wiring kit (Any tractor supply co. or feed store outlet should have them (about $22), in which one lead had a white/black wire and the other one had a blue/black lead, these leads are encased togtether under a black outer casing. Under the grand cherokee's existing roof rack's, drivers side front mounting cap, I drilled about a 1/2 inch hole to fit both sets of wires through. I used a rubber linkage bushing (held in place and sealed with black RTV) to protect the wiring as they were run into the interior above the headliner. The wires then run down the left windshield post and down to the existing wiring bulhead feedthrough (again re-sealed with RTV). One set of wiring was also run from the engine compartment to the switch in order to trip the relay for the lights power. Then I connected all of the wiring under the hood using split loom and black tie wraps as needed to make it all look neat. I mounted an oval lighted switch on the removable plastic trim behind the steering wheel, with the switch mounted behind the turn signal lever (there's another post with pics that show some of this detail). Everything turned out clean and the wiring is of sufficient size to carry the current without getting hot. I also because of the location of the lights have no glare problems on the hood and it makes back woods/road running much better.

Pete Wilson

[mrstang01]

(there's another post with pics that show some of this detail). Everything turned out clean and the wiring is of sufficient size to carry the current without getting hot. I also because of the location of the lights have no glare problems on the hood and it makes back woods/road running much better.

Pete Wilson

What post please, I'd love to see it.

Thanks!

Michael

[ntsqd]

You could also just run a single main power wire to the roof (like 6 or 8 gauge), hook it to a bunch of relays (in a waterproof box), and then use cat5 cable to 'trigger' the relays - it's a smaller cable and much easier to route into the cab (mine runs through the edge of teh door frame)...the relays I use have a small trigger current, so no issues w/heat, etc...and you can get watertight network connectors which makes it easy to disconnect the roof rack (one main power connector and a cat 5 connector and it's disconnected). Used this on two different vehicles for years and works well..
My own preference when doing something like this is to wire the switches on the ground side of the relay's control circuit. That way any short in the wire results in the relay closing and the controlled circuit coming on instead of sparks. It also means that the voltage drop across the load has already happened. Which in turn means that the current in the wire to the switch will also be very low and that the wire does not need to be very big.

[evldave]

Now that sounds interesting, got any pics?
None specifically of the setup...the racks off my truck for updates, so should be easy to take pics of the box, wiring, etc...I'll try and get out to the garage this weekend and take pics (no guarantees, pretty busy getting ready for txgiving).

[evldave]

My own preference when doing something like this is to wire the switches on the ground side of the relay's control circuit. That way any short in the wire results in the relay closing and the controlled circuit coming on instead of sparks. It also means that the voltage drop across the load has already happened. Which in turn means that the current in the wire to the switch will also be very low and that the wire does not need to be very big.
That's a very good idea, and much safer than running relays on the + side...i'll have to look into how I could do this with my setup. Thanks!

[Luke]

for anyone else looking to do this, I've used those 'military' connectors quite a bit while I was in the Army. Just be advised they are large and very unflexible. If you're looking for a neat, tight wiring job these would probably not be what you're looking for.