Hi-Lift Problems / Malfunctions

[SAR_Squid79]

http://img451.imageshack.us/img451/3560/bedbar2um6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I've had my Hi-Lift for about 3 years now. I've only had to use it 5 times so far (most recently tonight). 4 out of the 5 times I've used it it has malfunctioned. It jacks up just fine - nice and smooth. But when I throw the switch to jack it down, it won't do anything. If I try to jack it and hit the mechanism with a BFH then it will lower, but most of the time instead of going down 1 notch (like it's supposed to) it will just completely drop the load. I carry it on my truck 100% of the time, as I'm sure most of you do, and I lubricate it regulary. This is totally rediculous that my Hi-Lift has malfunctioned 80% of its uses. I feel that I can not even trust it anymore, and I always feel unsafe using it.

I e-mailed Hi-Lift about this, but does anyone else have a similar experience or fix?

The Hi-Lift has almost killed me 3 times, and once - it put a nice big crease in my driver's door. :mad: :mad: :mad: ALL WHEN TRYING TO LOWER THE JACK.

I'm ****ing pissed, and I'm ready to throw my Hi-Lift in Lake Michigan.

Should I just try lubricating it before each use?

[TACODOC]

I've seen this many time with them and other than WD-40 and smacking it with a hammer when it acts up... I dunno because thats what I've always done.

I saw a guy take one on the chin from a Hi-Lift handle once... knocked him out cold AND broke his jaw. They can beat you down you if you aren't careful!

[SAR_Squid79]

Yeah - that seems to be the TTORA concensus - lube before each and every use.

We'll see how that goes.

[benedmonson]

I hate to hear this as I just bought a new Ultimate version. What is the best all around lubricant to travel with for this jack???

[SAR_Squid79]

Everyone (on other message boards) is saying WD-40.

In accordance with the Hi-Lift Owner's Manual you should: "lubricate the Jack using white lithium grease, light penetrating oil, or a silicon or Teflon spray"

http://www.hi-lift.com/instructions/jack_instructions.pdf

[xcmountain80]

I Use gt-85 a teflon based spray lube available at your local bike shop. It stays on quite a bit better than wd. As the petroleum aerosol evaporates the teflon is left. Hi-lifts are a serious business. Know your lift or it may just kill you. Load shifts, jamming, I could go on and on. Think before you jack wait that didn't come out right.
The best thing to do is with it sitting or in your mount, use a screw driver to pull out each round slide pin and cover them in white lithium grease, a thick grease will moly something or rather is great for bearing and hi-lifts too. I find by doing this once every 6 months it helps the HL work when I need it.

Aaron

[tjbliley]

Have you thought about rebuilding it? It may just need new springs and pins as well having the races where the pins ride cleaned out. A good rebuild followed by a good lube could solve this for you.

It may not seem like it should need it but it has been out in the weather for 3 rys as you have said. Might be worth a try.

[tdesanto]

This definitely sounds like a friction issue. Teflon or lithium lubricant sounds like the right solution. This is probably due to the fact that it's out in the elements all the time. If you use the lithium grease, it probably wouldn't hurt to clean it every once in a while to remove any dirt/dust that the grease has picked up and then reapply new grease. Also the hi-lift cover might help extend the time between cleaning/lubricating.

Also, you might check the pins and springs to insure that one of them isn't bent or damaged in any way. That might also explain why they don't seem to move properly on lowering.

Sorry to hear about the frustration and dangerous accidents.

[SAR_Squid79]

I looked at it this evening after I got my tire changed, and gave it a visual inspection.

Everything seems to be in good shape. There is the presence of some surface rust, but all the pins and springs look okay to me. I don't think it needs rebuilding just yet. After re-reading the Owner's Manual it seems like my jack was "binding" exactly as described in the manual. I'm pretty sure I'm just not lubing it often enough.

I'm gonna go to the Hardware & Auto Parts store tomorrow in search of a better lubricant. I've been using Liquid Wrench, but I'm gonna see if I can find something else. Whatever I decide on will go in my recovery kit as the dedicated can-o-Hi-Lift-lube.

[spressomon]

This is the stuff:

http://www.g96.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=g96&Category_Code=Gun+Treatment


I have experienced the dreaded locked pin-itus on the Hi-Lift several times (it's damn hard to keep the pins properly lubed in stow). I am a fervent believer/user of G96 on my firearms and I carry a small aerosol can of it in my LC for guns and the Hi-Lift. It works...just that simple. But it isn't cheap...but then you probably already figured that out ;-) There's a reason wolf dick four oh is so cheap...

[peekay]

Jamie, I've had mine for about 6 years now. Used it as my primary jack the whole time. Probably used it maybe 150-200 times. The best lube, without any doubt, is the chain lube for motorcycles. This stuff will stick on like no other, but it won't attract dust and dirt. In fact, I've found chain lube to be the best lube for almost everything. The only thing it doesn't do well is penetrate deeply, i.e. for breaking bolts loose, etc.

[Grim Reaper]

Everyone (on other message boards) is saying WD-40.

In accordance with the Hi-Lift Owner's Manual you should: "lubricate the Jack using white lithium grease, light penetrating oil, or a silicon or Teflon spray"

http://www.hi-lift.com/instructions/jack_instructions.pdf
WD 40 is for drying ignition NOT lubrication. Lubrication is just a good marketing technique.

Get a real penetrating oil like PB Blaster.

If you store them in the open elements they will jam like that. HiLift makes a very nice fitted pouch for them to keep the mechanism dry. I lube mine a couple times a year and never had this complaint. It is stored in the fitted pouch. It is about 8 years old and I use it frequently. I give it a shot of PB blaster before use if the pins look at all dry.

[DaveInDenver]

If you store them in the open elements they will jam like that. HiLift makes a very nice fitted pouch for them to keep the mechanism dry.
Grim beat me to it. Storing it out in the open like that means it needs frequent lubrication. I use a dry lube, Pro Link bike chain lube (I buy the stuff by the truck load). Mine is mounted inside my camper, under a bed rail. It does get some dust but never gets wet or is exposed to the elements. I would lube and bag it, like Grim says. Actually a coating of WD40 inside the bag might be a good idea, too, to keep the rust at bay.

[xcmountain80]

This might or might not seem obvious, but I know here in FL we are not advised nor do we advise using a winch cover because of the humidity. While this sounds stupid to some it will help stuff rust a little faster. Would the HL cover do the same? I know if the lube is kept in place and not blasted off by 70mph highway speeds a little surface rust wouldn't kill it. Though now that I think about it the whole reason a cover was a bad idea might have been to prevent more rust to the cable, or hell for all I know a Urban FL myth. I had often though about modifying a pelican case or similar to cover the HL vital bits.

Aaron

[AndrewP]

Only two other comments.

1) If it's only been used 4-5 times, there is often excess powder coat on the lift bar that snags the pins. It wears away after more use, and the pins slide more easily in their tracks.

2) There is a good side and a bad side of the bar. I know that sounds weird, but it depends on how the holes are punched in the bar. You could turn it around and see what happens.


Lube before every use-I like the teflon spray, but lately I've been using "Boeshield" available at your local bike shop. That seems to stay on between use and prevents rust, too. The best thing is to keep the mechanism inside and out of the weather.

[Uticon]

I see in your picture you have one of those rubber handle holders.
I had one on my Hi-Lift and it got in the way of the handle going all the way to the up position.
If you cannot lift the handle to the up position all the way at the main verticle portion of the jack it wont engage the mechanism to lower the jack to the next slot.
Just what i have learned, hope it helps.
:) :)




http://img451.imageshack.us/img451/3560/bedbar2um6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I've had my Hi-Lift for about 3 years now. I've only had to use it 5 times so far (most recently tonight). 4 out of the 5 times I've used it it has malfunctioned. It jacks up just fine - nice and smooth. But when I throw the switch to jack it down, it won't do anything. If I try to jack it and hit the mechanism with a BFH then it will lower, but most of the time instead of going down 1 notch (like it's supposed to) it will just completely drop the load. I carry it on my truck 100% of the time, as I'm sure most of you do, and I lubricate it regulary. This is totally rediculous that my Hi-Lift has malfunctioned 80% of its uses. I feel that I can not even trust it anymore, and I always feel unsafe using it.

I e-mailed Hi-Lift about this, but does anyone else have a similar experience or fix?

The Hi-Lift has almost killed me 3 times, and once - it put a nice big crease in my driver's door. :mad: :mad: :mad: ALL WHEN TRYING TO LOWER THE JACK.

I'm ****ing pissed, and I'm ready to throw my Hi-Lift in Lake Michigan.

Should I just try lubricating it before each use?

[ntsqd]

I'll second using the m/c chain lube. Specifically I use Maxima aerosol chain wax.

Then I'll mention something that has made a huge difference in the two Hi-Lifts that I've done it to. I perform what shooters would call an "action job" on them. Take the jack completely apart. Get out your mill files and smooth every rubbing surface. DO NOT change any angles, just smooth & straighten all of the rubbing surfaces. You can significantly reduce the operating friction of the jack by doing this.

[teotwaki]

WD 40 is for drying ignition NOT lubrication. Lubrication is just a good marketing technique.

................snip..................

A detail oriented person would look at WD-40's Material Safety Data Sheet and see that WD-40 does indeed contain a lubricant (sorry, no marketing hype)

Chemical Information
Chemical Name: Solvent naphtha, petroleum, medium aliphatic
CAS Registry Number: 064742-88-7
Synonyms: Solvent naptha (petroleum), medium aliphatic; Stoddard solvent (2); Solvent naptha, medium aliphatic; Petroleum distillate (3); Solvent naphtha, petroleum, medium aliph.


http://www.wd40.com.au/msds/ChemWatch%20MSDS%20WD-40_Aerosol.pdf

[DaveInDenver]

A detail oriented person would look at WD-40's Material Safety Data Sheet and see that WD-40 does indeed contain a lubricant (sorry, no marketing hype)

Chemical Information
Chemical Name: Solvent naphtha, petroleum, medium aliphatic
CAS Registry Number: 064742-88-7
Synonyms: Solvent naptha (petroleum), medium aliphatic; Stoddard solvent (2); Solvent naptha, medium aliphatic; Petroleum distillate (3); Solvent naphtha, petroleum, medium aliph.
What part of WD40 is the lubricant? Always trying to understand chemistry!

Looks like medium aliphatic solvent naphtha is typically used as a paint thinner and various use cleaner.
http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=chem&id=174
http://www.whitakeroil.com/MSDS/Shell%20sol%20d60%20msds.pdf

Seems like the other major parts of WD40 are a heavy solvent-dewaxed paraffinic distillate and Stoddard solvent.
http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=chem&id=157
http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=chem&id=178

So is the distillate the lubricating part?

[ntsqd]

A person with considerable experience in cleaning firearms that were "lubricated" by their owners with that stuff knows it's not a very good lube. It is excellent at building up junk, grunge, & just general carp! To the point that said firearm no longer functions.

It is an excellent starting fluid for diesel engines. That is all I use it for.

I find it amazing how well their marketing worked. That all these years later some folks still consider it to be the best cure-all on the market.

But, back on topic, I found that doing the "action job" on the jacks did reduce their operating friction noticeably, even when totally dry of any lube.

IMHO an implement like a Hi-Lift should NOT require lubricant for it to function properly. It should work as intended any time or place regardless of the lube or lack of it so long as it is not damaged. Otherwise having it along may not do you any good.

[AndrewP]

IMHO an implement like a Hi-Lift should NOT require lubricant for it to function properly. It should work as intended any time or place regardless of the lube or lack of it so long as it is not damaged. Otherwise having it along may not do you any good.


Maybe so, but in use, they almost always do require a lube for the pins to pop up crisply when lowering the jack. Plus, the jacks stored outside in the open are almost always slightly rusty. The good thing is, that even very rusty vetrans still work pretty well with just a few shots of lube. Maybe if kept inside your truck, in a storage bag, it wouldn't happen. My two highlifts stay in the garage most of the time, and only get mounted up if I'm going somewhere offroad. That way at most, they have one trip's accumulate grime only.

I totally agree that WD-40 is a nearly useless spray fluid, and I'm not sure why so many still stick with it.

That Boeshield I mentioned is really good a keeping stuff from sticking to the parts and gunking up the mechanism.

[ntsqd]

Mine's been sitting outside about 3/4 mile from the beach for nearly a year. (I quit carrying it after going to a small floor jack on a skidplate.) I'll try to see if it still works, sans lube, tonight.

[DaveInDenver]

IMHO an implement like a Hi-Lift should NOT require lubricant for it to function properly. It should work as intended any time or place regardless of the lube or lack of it so long as it is not damaged. Otherwise having it along may not do you any good.
I think I agree with your point insofar as it should function safely. That's not to say it should necessarily work well (and AFAIK they'd jam into a safe state if loaded). I guess I don't see why or how a total lack of maintenance should be a condition for it's operation. Now if the manual said that you don't need to clean and lube it, then I would wholeheartedly agree. But Bloomfield puts recommended lube points right in their owner's manual.

[ntsqd]

I'm not talking about neglect. I'm talking about excessive maint. requirements. To me that means if I have to do anything on the trail JUST to use it. If I've been working & it needs some attention, that's different.

That being said, mine has been neglected. I don't use it any more so the maint. sched has fallen to zero. I carried it, as all the guru's & wannabe gurus said to do, for 5 years. Used it once, and any sort of jack would've worked mine just happened to be easiest to get out. Turned out to not be the best choice for the job (replacing Yota t-bar anchors on a Stock Mini desert race truck).

So I grabbed it and a shackle to jack up the front of Patch. (I jack by the shackle lugs I built into the front bumper.) The pins (& everything else) are as rusty as you might expect from sitting outside in a marine environment for nearly a year. A couple strokes w/ no load had it working fine going up. Lifted the RF almost off the ground w/ no real trouble.
When I started to set Patch back down is when the trouble started. It wouldn't go. Everything except the pins worked fine. Though they'd slide, they wouldn't slide far enough to effect a lowering of the jack. Some careful use of a screwdriver and a couple taps with a dead-blow got it down.

Would I use some lube on it b4 taking into the field again? Absolutely. With the aerosol cycle chain wax (which works equally well on MTB's btw).
Would I leave it where it lay if it refused to function at first use in the field? Absolutely.

Wish they made those springs and maybe the sliding pins out of stainless.

For ref on why a shackle, Patch's front bumper:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u196/ntsqd/Patch3.jpg

[DaveInDenver]

I'm not talking about neglect. I'm talking about excessive maint. requirements.
I know that's what you meant, just making a point. I think the jack is designed to jam safely, which I think was what happened to yours. IOW, the safe condition is for the jack to basically freeze in a locked position under load rather than release or slide.

[Grim Reaper]

A detail oriented person would look at WD-40's Material Safety Data Sheet and see that WD-40 does indeed contain a lubricant (sorry, no marketing hype)

Chemical Information
Chemical Name: Solvent naphtha, petroleum, medium aliphatic
CAS Registry Number: 064742-88-7
Synonyms: Solvent naptha (petroleum), medium aliphatic; Stoddard solvent (2); Solvent naptha, medium aliphatic; Petroleum distillate (3); Solvent naphtha, petroleum, medium aliph.


http://www.wd40.com.au/msds/ChemWatch%20MSDS%20WD-40_Aerosol.pdf
WD 40 stands for Water Displacement 40th try. They never intended for it to be used to lubricate anything and anybody who has busted their knuckles a few times knows that. The marketing team was who decided you should spray it on everything and stated making these claims it was good for anything then what it was designed for.

What lubricant is in it evaporates very quickly with the Naphtha. I find the best use for WD for is "fire balls" and potato cannons not lubrication of anything.

[teotwaki]

WD 40 stands for Water Displacement 40th try. They never intended for it to be used to lubricate anything and anybody who has busted their knuckles a few times knows that. The marketing team was who decided you should spray it on everything and stated making these claims it was good for anything then what it was designed for.

What lubricant is in it evaporates very quickly with the Naphtha. I find the best use for WD for is "fire balls" and potato cannons not lubrication of anything.

So now we do agree that it has a lubricant in it. Back in post #12 you said it was all marketing hype.

"WD 40 is for drying ignition NOT lubrication. Lubrication is just a good marketing technique".

It was never actually made for drying ignition, however the paraffin has very good insulating properties

Electrical insulating materials. Kaye and Laby Tables of Physical and Chemical Constants. National Physical Laboratory (1995).

So maybe drying out ignitions is just marketing hype too?

Here is an interesting factoid about getting too much naphtha:

Almost all volatile, lipid-soluble organic chemicals cause general, nonspecific depression of the central nervous system or general anesthesia

[MaddBaggins]

Sorry about your frustrations Jamie. I've had mine act up before and it sucks. I actually took a blow on the back of the jaw from the handle when it finally released. Knocked me on my arse, but thankfully didn't break my jaw. Stupid mistake on my part, I knew better than to stick my head in there and did it anyway.

I keep mine inside the rig, out of the elements, but still don't lube it enough. This thread reminds me I need to rehab that thing soon.

[teotwaki]

I liked the comments about disassembling some parts and cleaning them up with a file to ensure smooth operation. My jack has not seen official action but I have pulled it out every so often to get re-used to how it works. Also all of the back and forth on lubrication has been very useful too (and fun!).

On a recent off-road trip we had all of the weird jack-related things happen: the guy with the new lifted vehicle had a flat tire but no Hi-Lift Jack of his own. Another driver pulled out a really beat up jack that was sliding around his pickup bed. It successfully lifted the disabled truck but then jammed. So another driver pulled out a very shiny Hi-Jack Lift that still had the paper instructions rolled up in the jacking handle! We used that one to extract the jammed jack and then lower the truck. :safari-rig:

[UK4X4]

mine sits on my front bumper exposed to everything, the pins are covered with axle grease....they are not rusty, however would need wiping off before use, just to get the embedded dust off.

In the past i left it dry from lubricants,,,and just sprayed before use.....

I think the main issue, is not checking the pins are moving BEFORE jacking the truck up......

[Fifthpro]

SAR Squid79,
What you experienced with your HLJ is really quite common. It is the Cross Pin Spring and Cross Pin that is not functioning properly.
Maintenance is the key to prevent this but if it happens again there is a simple field fix that will allow you to continue with your recovery/jacking. I do suggest that you try this with a un-loaded HLJ first to see how it works mechanically before trying this in the middle of the night in poring rain. Keep in mind all of the safety concerns and the fact that a loaded HLJ requires 150 lbs to lower step by step or it will simply slide and drop your load.
When you are lowering the load, often times the "climbing pins" will bind in the holes of the main bar. This is a result of being exposed to the elements, gathering road grime, etc. When this happens all you have to do is grab a Leatherman Tool or Needle Nose Pliers and grab the pin and pull it into position, it will click and allow you to move the handle again, lowering the load on stop. Repeat as necessary until your load is no longer on the HLJ. Again for safety sake and so you do not hurt yourself, try this while the HLJ in not under load first but the next time it does you will not be slowed down, just whip out a Leatherman Tool and you are back into operation.
Of course this is a Band Aid fix to a larger problem, the bound pin…..Prior to every 4x4 excursion I go through a “Pre Run Check” of my rig and all recovery gear (of course I have a Post Run checklist as well). When it comes to recovery gear I check for accountability and to ensure that all gear is functional. This includes climbing up on my TJ and pulling off my HLJ from the roof rack, lube and inspect it. (THis may be asking to much for some folks I guess but I can not afford for a piece of gear to fail when I need it so I will go the extra mile.)
Obviously, the amount of crap the HLJ is exposed to the greater chance of grim binding the cross pin and climbing pin spring. By having it mounted on my roof rack it is exposed to the elements 24/7 and has direct contact with sand, dirt and mud. For those who mount he HLJ on the front of their bumper the amount of crap it gets exposed to increases, simply due to the proximity to the road. Other choose the rear of the vehicle in a verity of mounting locations. Those with horizontal mounts on the bumper get the Full Monty of road grim and dirt. If a poll was taken I would assume that those with the HLJ mounted there suffer from more HLF failures but that is just my guess.
As far as cleaning and lubricating; you can/should use white lithium grease, light penetrating oil, or a silicon / Teflon spray on the Steel Bar, Pitman Pin, Shear Bolt and of course the Climbing Pins and Springs. I do carry a a "Fix It Kit" for my HLJ just in case but have never had to use it.
Once again, just my opinion and it may differ from others with their own hard earned experiences….

[lionsbreath]

I am with you guys, I take mine out and practice with it be for a trail run and give it the once over with some PB BLASTER. PB seems to free everything. But I read that some of you use chain lube and I might try that next. You must know how to work the jack before you have to use it for the first time off road! And that includes proper maint. As for storage I keep mine in the garage until I take a trip. Mine was my dad's years before I was born and it still works great.

[alaskantinbender]

My jack also sits on the front bumper of the truck exposed to the weather.
The same jack has been on a number of different trucks for the last 20 years. The more you try and keep it clean and coated with (add your special brand) the more covered with gunk it will become. A dry jack will not attract much dirt. Clean off the big chunks and moving parts before you use it and lubricate with (add your favorite brand) It will be fine. The best thing to do is as has already been said, practice, practice, practice. If you don’t get stuck and need it, you aren’t trying hard enough.
And like lionsbreath said PB blaster is the best corrosion/junk remover I have ever seen. I always have a can in the rig.


Regards,

Jim
:rally_guys:

[Alaska Mike]

My highlift is mounted on the rear of my Jeep on the jamboree rack, upside down. The mechanical section is covered with a plastic bag and a canvas bag. I keep it liberally hosed down with light oil. So far it has worked when I needed it and the mechanical section looks brand new. I was concerned about condensation initially, but this doesn't seem to be an issue.

I know others that remove the mechanical section and keep it stored inside the vehicle, usually in an ammo can. It really depends on how much space you have and how often you may have to use it.

[cowboy4x4]

I was at a Bill Burke demonstration and he showed us an area on the hi-lift that on some units needs to be filed smooth...ie factory forging blem, it allows the pins to slide back and forth smoothly. The best way I can describe it is you have two big pins that have a small pin going through them at a 90* angle the smaller pins slide on the cast part of the jack. that area needs to be as smooth as a babies bottom sand it down smooth dont use a grease on that area it attracts dirt dirt causes friction, friction causes broken jaw. I would personaly recomend some type of dry graphite in that area. Keep rust and mud away from that area as well....Thomas

[SAR_Squid79]

I was at a Bill Burke demonstration and he showed us an area on the hi-lift that on some units needs to be filed smooth...ie factory forging blem

Can anyone elaborate on this?

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/325/hiliftcn8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[cowboy4x4]

elaborate on the area I'm talking about ?
If so i will snap a pic of the area i"m talking about and post it tomorrow.

[SAR_Squid79]

elaborate on the area I'm talking about ?
If so i will snap a pic of the area i"m talking about and post it tomorrow.

Yeah - thanks - that would help out, because I don't think I understand. That's why I posted the diagram.

[ntsqd]

The "Action Job" I did on mine & a MISF's focused on part No. 18
I worked on where it makes contact with all other parts, smoothing both it and them.

[MoGas]

I shoot mine with lube every use. Never had a problem.

[ntsqd]

I still contend that lubing it every time shouldn't be necessary. My reasoning is: What if you don't have any lube? Now what? How good is a rescue tool if you don't have the ability to lube it when needed?

I'm not talking about routine maint. and lubrication. That is reasonable. I don't think lubing it at every use is reasonable. I quit carrying mine 2 or 3 years ago and haven't missed it.

[dieselcruiserhead]

It does sounds like a lubrication issue to me too. If it is going up and not down, and it does go down but not often then that is the case. It is what happens when they are stored outside/on vehicles. I use regular old motor oil and only have to lube maybe once a year or so if even that... I have all sorts of high lifts, generic and name brand, and use them all the time for all sorts of stuff and lube is definetely important, I have also never had one fail and consider it a very important and highly reliable piece of equipment...

[cowboy4x4]

hear is a pic of the area that Bill told us about..
The black area of the casting that the gold pin slides on where the pencil tips are should be very smooth
as you can see I have not filed mine smooth ,you can see all the imperfections in the casting on the rest of the jack. Hope this helps.As of yet mine has not caught up but I'm going to file mine smooth anyway ,I dont want anything happening on the trail.

http://www.adventure4x4.net/photos/data/500/IMG_2642_Medium_.JPG

[teotwaki]

I still contend that lubing it every time shouldn't be necessary. My reasoning is: What if you don't have any lube? Now what? How good is a rescue tool if you don't have the ability to lube it when needed?

I'm not talking about routine maint. and lubrication. That is reasonable. I don't think lubing it at every use is reasonable. I quit carrying mine 2 or 3 years ago and haven't missed it.

Pull out your dipstick? :Mechanic: (for a littlle bit of oil.....)

[ntsqd]

Useful, but then you've got a nasty mess. I found it easier to just lighten my load by 40-odd pounds and instead carry a jack that doesn't require all sorts of do-dads to be able to lift a tire enough for me to work on it or change it.

[teotwaki]

Useful, but then you've got a nasty mess. I found it easier to just lighten my load by 40-odd pounds and instead carry a jack that doesn't require all sorts of do-dads to be able to lift a tire enough for me to work on it or change it.

Granted that you despise Hi-Lifts and only carry yours very reluctantly when the moon is blue or if you need extra ballast in your rig. My suggestion was meant as a "I need lube but I didn't bring any" fix. Better to take a positive approach and live with a temporary "nasty mess" than use a long drawn out excuse to justify not carrying the Hi Lift:


"What if you don't have any lube? Now what? How good is a rescue tool if you don't have the ability to lube it when needed?"

I think that this thread was called "Hi-Lift Problems / Malfunctions" in order to discuss ways to improve performance rather than being called "reasons to convince others that Hi Lifts are 40 excess pounds in a rig". Maybe start a new thread for that discussion?

[ntsqd]

I don't expect my view to be popular since it goes against what all of the experts (real and wannabe) say. Read back thru this thread and you'll see my posts as to what I did to make mine work better. Those efforts did make a difference, just not enough IMO.

HLJ's may be absolutely indispensable to some, but I feel their quality and usefulness is over-rated and new folks are automatically told to get one without warrant. If they worked better with minimal annual attention then perhaps I'd feel differently. Something like an extraction jack should be as reliable as an anvil, and require only a little more attention. For their stated use I don't think they do and that is my objection to them.

With that, I've stated my objection to them well enough (by now!), so unless asked to expand on exactly what I did in working mine over I'll leave this thread alone.

[cowboy4x4]

I'm also going to be buying a Quaddro scissor jack , I like the hi-lift for recovery,but sometimes find it a pain for just a simple tire change. check this jack out it was at the SEMA show and will be at the Offroad Impact show in march, I couldnt find a price on it though.

www.quaddrotech.com

http://www.adventure4x4.net/photos/data/500/medium/IMG_2649_Medium_.JPG

[teotwaki]

I don't expect my view to be popular since it goes against what all of the experts (real and wannabe) say. Read back thru this thread and you'll see my posts as to what I did to make mine work better. Those efforts did make a difference, just not enough IMO.

HLJ's may be absolutely indispensable to some, but I feel their quality and usefulness is over-rated and new folks are automatically told to get one without warrant. If they worked better with minimal annual attention then perhaps I'd feel differently. Something like an extraction jack should be as reliable as an anvil, and require only a little more attention. For their stated use I don't think they do and that is my objection to them.

With that, I've stated my objection to them well enough (by now!), so unless asked to expand on exactly what I did in working mine over I'll leave this thread alone.

I think a fun way to argue against them would be to post photos of the accidental crease in the vehicle's sheetmetal that occurs when a Hi Lift slips! :oops:

To me the Hi Lift is just another tool even if it is heavy and cumbersome. I also carry a hydraulic bottle jack and an aluminum base plate for soft ground.

[dieselcruiserhead]

To each and to his own and nothing wrong with that...

But for what its worth, again, all of mine require minimal attention and are incredibly useful for all sorts of projects... The last pic is not overly safe but again, how else could you change a tire with relative ease in maybe 10 minutes in a snow packed road, with a lifted truck, and be able lift the front end of your truck out of a 1 foot deep vaccuum of mud, and clamp together some steel to weld it together, and switch one aspect of it and use it as a winch? Maybe you got a bad apple but again I think think they are worth their weight personally...

[lqhikers]

agree and disagree on hlj's posts.in regards to lubing i always clean and lube after each use ( or when i get home),but what i do is after i clean and lube i bag with plastic bag then tape bag with duct tape,then i cover with draw string naug. cover.been doing this for years no problems.it seems like this is a lot of hassel but i might go for years with out using,but when i do need it its ready.also i agree that not all rigs need or can even use highlift .my 2008 taco is a example.if you do not add lift points at front and rear (as either end can not be lifted in stock form) as you can see from pic's i mount mine on front of taco not only is it out of way but it also works as brush guard ,i feel you are pushing your luck if you use the wheel lift straps that are sold if something slips you are sure to ding the side of truck!looking at pic you will see that the jack is not a true highlift,but a harbor tool clone ,happened on the way to Baja stopped i san diego the night before crossing border,came out in morning highlift gone!quick fix at harbor tools still using ! but i still use bottle jack when i have to work under truck while on trail,would never trust highlift without added support!drive slow and enjoy "its the journey"

[highlandercj-7]

FWIW, I have used my Hi-Lift maybe 3 times in 10 years. It's probally not worth carrring the weight for that amount of usage but it's always on my rig. Most failures I have seen aree because of improper care and/or people leaving them out in the weather. I remove the jacking mechanisim and store it inside, under my rear seat. The bar has been painted with quality automotive paint and I mounted it on the rear tire carrier. The mechanism is like new after 10 years doing it this way. Some people complain that it takes a hole 30 seconds to assemble it, well it keeps the thing like new and for the 3 times in 10 years I'll waste that few mins of assembly time lol...

[FlyingWen]

There is a Hi-Lift Fix It kit (http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=162) that has new pins and some oil in it.

That should help the Jack operate more smoothly. Jacks that are constantly mounted on the vehicle are not going to operate as well as those that are protected from the elements.

[jsmoriss]

Jamie, I've had mine for about 6 years now. Used it as my primary jack the whole time. Probably used it maybe 150-200 times. The best lube, without any doubt, is the chain lube for motorcycles. This stuff will stick on like no other, but it won't attract dust and dirt. In fact, I've found chain lube to be the best lube for almost everything. The only thing it doesn't do well is penetrate deeply, i.e. for breaking bolts loose, etc.

x2!

I prefer Amsoil HDMP. The hi-lift gets coated, but so does the pull-pal and everything under the Jeep. It works great as an undercoat for winter! :-)

js.

[bianco4x4]

http://img451.imageshack.us/img451/3560/bedbar2um6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I've had my Hi-Lift for about 3 years now. I've only had to use it 5 times so far (most recently tonight). 4 out of the 5 times I've used it it has malfunctioned. It jacks up just fine - nice and smooth. But when I throw the switch to jack it down, it won't do anything. If I try to jack it and hit the mechanism with a BFH then it will lower, but most of the time instead of going down 1 notch (like it's supposed to) it will just completely drop the load. I carry it on my truck 100% of the time, as I'm sure most of you do, and I lubricate it regulary. This is totally rediculous that my Hi-Lift has malfunctioned 80% of its uses. I feel that I can not even trust it anymore, and I always feel unsafe using it.

I e-mailed Hi-Lift about this, but does anyone else have a similar experience or fix?

The Hi-Lift has almost killed me 3 times, and once - it put a nice big crease in my driver's door. :mad: :mad: :mad: ALL WHEN TRYING TO LOWER THE JACK.

I'm ****ing pissed, and I'm ready to throw my Hi-Lift in Lake Michigan.

Should I just try lubricating it before each use?

Jamie - Get in touch with me to find out about the Hi-Lift remedy that will be available soon.

[bianco4x4]

I'm also going to be buying a Quaddro scissor jack , I like the hi-lift for recovery,but sometimes find it a pain for just a simple tire change. check this jack out it was at the SEMA show and will be at the Offroad Impact show in march, I couldnt find a price on it though.

www.quaddrotech.com

http://www.adventure4x4.net/photos/data/500/medium/IMG_2649_Medium_.JPG

cowboy4x4 - check out the following new information about the Quaddro Scissor Jack.

www.reprisecorp.com

GREAT NEW DEVELOPMENTS WILL SOON BE MADE KNOWN IN PRESS RELEASE REGARDING THE NEW DEVELOPED QUADDRO SCISSOR JACK - PLANETARY GEAR LOOKS GREAT!!!

[Guinness44]

Quaddrotech jack: Just talked to them. Pricing and stuff will be on their page in 2 or 3 weeks. That jack will be rated at 9000lbs, and they are being tested on uparmored HMMWVs.

[Azlugz]

I have already been hit on this site for saying I use a taller hi-lift equivilent but anyway, you are all missing one very important point here that the Jeeping world refuses to see too.

Hi-Lift is not the designer of this jack style, they are simply a knock off of the original design and not an overly well made knockoff at that....tho none I have found are. This jack style started life as a farm implement for everything from lifting the tractor to stretching barbed wire for the fence and pulling old fence posts out of the ground. As a farm jack, they were normally VERY well used and were broke in quite quickly and kept lubed. They did not normally sit for months on end, get used for 10 minutes and then sit again, when they were pulled out, they got used a LOT and I must say, if you have never tried to stretch barbed wire without one, it is a quick lesson in futility.

This jack design was never intended to be used as we use it, it was simply adapted and not really even change to match the need so it is not a design flaw, it is a use flaw, that is why you have to lube it everytime you use it, but to date, there is nothing that will fully take the place of a hi-lift....Farm Jack knock off.


As for WD-40, it is great for watrer recoveries and starting diesels...NEVER use it as a lube as it gums up over time and attracts everything including bugs!!!!



Just my 2 cent addition to the insanity

[Ron B]

Quaddrotech jack: Just talked to them. Pricing and stuff will be on their page in 2 or 3 weeks. That jack will be rated at 9000lbs, and they are being tested on uparmored HMMWVs.

looks like Travis is listed as a dealer of the hd version -- pretty cool. I wonder what the $$ will be?

rb

[dsrtdcab]

AZLugz-
I actually have a Farm-Lift, and you are absolutely correct in its originally intended uses, it is second to none in that regard. On another note, I use the same grease to lube it that we use on the John Deere ;) Although it is very messy, it keeps the jack working flawlessly, even when lifting a truck as opposed to a tractor...

[toyrunner95]

highlifts can be dangerous. i broke my brand new windshield after about 3 min after it was installed. and its almost takem my head off.

lube is the key. mine sits idle most of the year in the weather and they can get rusty. another key is paint. take the two big ladder pins out then paint and lube them. the paint keeps any moisture out and the lube does its job. i have never used my jack and NOT had a problem.

another tip, keep the handel pin in. i broke my windshield when i had the doors were off my truck, i was jacking up the side and the handel slipped out of my hand, missed my head, then flung itself through the truck bouncing off the inside of the windshield. i was soo mad, they guy had just left too.

[madizell]

The issue with the Hi-Lift style jack not working on one direction or the other is inherent in the design. The walking pins have to have the load taken off them to slip into position, and the clearances are on the large side, which is not a bad thing.

But, if you lube the jack you have to keep it covered when not in use, as the lube itself will attract and hold dirt, which will in turn jam the pins. A completely dry and rust-free (in the working part of the) jack will work just fine. A clean and lubed jack will work just fine. A lubed and dirty jack will generally not work for long.

I don't lube mine as I don't cover it inside the car, and while it will jam from time to time when first placed in service, a bump will get it going and after that it works just fine because the bump displaces the loose grit. If it were lubed and dirty, a bump would get it going but you would have to bump it every time because working the action will not displace and loose the dirt that jammed it to start with.

Hanging a lift jack outside the vehicle where it is exposed to elements and airborne dirt makes it problematic just how well it will work when it is needed. If I had to hang one on front or rear bumper, uncovered and unprotected, I would NOT lube it. Instead, I would take it down, blow it off with air pressure, and use it from time to time to displace surface rust on the pins. I have seen shag-nasty rusted jacks work just fine as long as the pins were free to move.

But truly, this is a crude piece of technology. Don't expect it to work perfectly each and every time. Just be prepared to whack it on occasion.

[ntsqd]

snip.....
A completely dry and rust-free (in the working part of the) jack will work just fine.
BT, TT. IME, No it will not. In the 1/2 dozen times I used the jack before setting it permanently on the driveway it failed to function properly ~60% of the time. I find that inexcuseable. I'm OK with it being crude. I'm OK with it functioning crude. I'm not OK with it malfunctioning to the point where it's clunky, inoperative, or dangerous. It's biten me, literally, twice. That was with careful handling. The second time was after the careful detailing I descibed much earlier in this thread and is why it's now been sitting on the driveway for 3 years.

I will say this about Hi-Lifts though, their standard footplate makes a darned nice spare tire rim center holding plate. :)

[hi-liftjackcompany]

I am an employee of Hi-Lift Jack Company, so I wanted to respond to some of this discussion. First of, lubrication does seem to be the issue at hand for 90% of the claims describing the jack going up fine, but having problems coming down. Hi-Lift jacks are tested twice before leaving the factory and have lubrication added to them at that time. However, in the time it takes for the jacks to actually reach the end-user, the lubricant can dissipate. It is noted in the instruction manual and on the warning labels, that lubricating the jack well before use is important. The best way to keep it clean and lubricated is to lubricate it often, and then keep it covered with one of the many jack covers available on the market. We will be coming out with a new jack cover within the next few months that will be a neoprene zip-on cover for the Hi-Lift to help in this regard. I echo the comments of those that stressed the importance of respecting the Hi-Lift Jack. Anything that can lift up to 7,000 lbs. can be dangerous if not used correctly. In addition to the instruction manual available with the jack and online, we also have DVD's available at no charge for anyone that requests them by calling (800)233-2051 or requesting them on our website (www.hi-lift.com). This DVD demonstrates proper use of the jack and demonstrates many other uses for the Hi-Lift that make it so versatile and important in the off-road market... winching, pulling, clamping, stretching, prying. It offers much more versatility than any other lifting-only device. Lastly... a comment towards the person that claims that Hi-Lift is a knock-off of the Farm Jack. This is completely false. The Hi-Lift jack was originally called the Handyman Jack when it was invented back in 1905. We changed the name from Handyman to Hi-Lift back in the 1960's, but the same family has owned and operated the business all that time up until today. The family invented the jack in 1905, and all the knock-off jacks that have come along since are just imitators.

[MaddBaggins]

Very nice to have a rep from the company come in and offer their 2 cents. Thanks.
I personally never have issue with mine. It's stored in the rig and before each use I hit all moving parts with WD40. It's always worked just fine for me.

EDIT: I should clarify. Earlier in this thread I stated a couple issues I had with mine. Those issues were all operator error on my part. My hi-lift works just fine when I'm not being stupid.

[tdesanto]

Very nice to have a rep from the company come in and offer their 2 cents. Thanks.

X2


I personally never have issue with mine. It's stored in the rig and before each use I hit all moving parts with WD40. It's always worked just fine for me.

X2

[bigredpigdriver]

Very nice to have a rep from the company come in and offer their 2 cents. Thanks.
I personally never have issue with mine. It's stored in the rig and before each use I hit all moving parts with WD40. It's always worked just fine for me.
I would like to echo your statement. I feel I have sometimes abused my poor jack, but it has always come thru for me. I use a motorcycle chain lube on mine, I like that it stick and dont drip like d-40.

[Explorer 1]

Everytime I use my Hi-jack I experience the same mentioned problem. Because of the storage location of my jack, the rear bumper, and the amount of dust it is subject to between use, I always carry a can of WD-40 and spray away before each use. Once the lower pin is freed up and slidding back and forth freely, no problems.

I agree that anything used to move somthing heavy has to be respected when in use.

Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1

[KG6BWS]

Very nice to have a rep from the company come in and offer their 2 cents. Thanks.
I personally never have issue with mine. It's stored in the rig and before each use I hit all moving parts with WD40. It's always worked just fine for me.

EDIT: I should clarify. Earlier in this thread I stated a couple issues I had with mine. Those issues were all operator error on my part. My hi-lift works just fine when I'm not being stupid.

x2. i used to have nothing but problems with mine, going up or down, with hammer or without, until i got my head out of my butt and started lubing it properly. the best stuff, that ive found, is a graphite spray that i use on my guns. couple of shots of graphite occasionally and it works perfectly. like the rep said, lube is the key. imo, wd40 just doesnt cut it. but like i said, thats just MY experience.