Experienced advice & information requested: Trailer Axles with brakes...

[matthewp]

Alright, I'm getting serious on building my off-road "teardrop-ish" trailer (The initial design thread is in my sig... I have no idea what to call it!). I am toying with the possibility of putting a disc-brake axle underneath, this one to be exact: 3,500 lb. Kodiak Hydraulic Disc Standard Spring Trailer Axle.

The trailer is expected to weigh between 1500 and 2000 lbs. All the information I know about having a "braked" trailer for off road is that I want a brake controller that can turn off. Can you guys give me recommendations and advice on what else I'm going to need apart from this axle, to put a working set-up on my trailer.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[John E Davies]

You need hoses or stainless brake lines (NOT raw steel), tubing bender and flaring tool (if you choose hard lines), and an "electric over hydraulic" brake actuator (US$600+). Plus a couple of quarts of DOT3. That axle is a great price, because the cheapest I have seen the Kodiak disk kit is at eTrailers for US$260.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Titan/T4813100.html

Then you need a standard electric brake controller to send the correct input to the actuator. For loose surfaces you dial the current way down or all the way to zero. I really like the SUPERB Jordan Ultima 2020 cable operated units, but unfortunately they are long out of production. So pick a high rated electronic model like the Tekonsha P3, and learn to live with reduced performance both on road and off.....

Disk brakes are expensive, mostly because of the exotic actuator they require, but I bet you will be very happy with them. A down side is that you have no option for a mechanical parking brake. IMHO a standard Dexter 3500 pound axle with 10" x 2" brake "with parking feature" would be a more cost effective and satisfactory choice for a teardrop.

If you go with disks or regular electric drum brakes, you can always use a breakaway switch to lock the brakes for a while (just pull the pin out), but that uses up a ton of current (3 amps per brake) and will run down your house battery pretty fast.

The only difference in the P-brake from the regular one is that it has a cam with external arm that allows you to set it manually with a cable and handle. You will have to engineer some of the linkages, but you can buy a surplus military handle for about $70 or use something from a junkyard car. A mil-surp brake cable for an M-410 trailer is $58. The P-brakes are much more expensive than the bare ones, due to low production numbers, but they are WAY cheaper than a disk setup.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/235975-i-need-parking-brake-system.html

You also need springs and associated stuff, but I assume you knew that

Good luck.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

 

[matthewp]

Wow! Thanks for all the info John! That was great. I see that the disc brakes are far more expense than I want/need for the trailer. I am definitely going to get the electric drum braked axle then (This). I will have to call them tomorrow to find out what I also need in addition to the in-cab brake controller.

I've had a heck of a time trying to nail down anything actually resembling a parking brake kit on the internet though (I have found some parts on eBay but not enough to make my inexperienced mind comfort that I know whether what I'm ordering is correct. I think it would be worth it to ask the folks at trailerpart.com when I give them a call). A person would figure that would be a reasonably popular item, but I may be wrong!

Thank you again for all the wonderful help!

 

[Aspen Trails Trailers]

I think John pretty much nailed it on the information. Lot of knowledgeable people on here.


I have never put a parking brake on a trailer. I can see the need for them on occasion, but the hassle and expense is a lot when chocks will work. I think you have made a wise choice on the electric brakes. Brakes can actually help you when towing off road. I am trying to set up a system that will make them work independently. Somewhat like a toggle that slides. I actually had one done years ago, but have lost it. I have been looking for it for the last month to no avail.

I think Prodigy now makes a wireless controller for the electric brakes with a good adjustment range. I think I would use the hard wire, as at times when I use the brakes to climb over things, I shut off the trailer brakes with a switch. The first time I tried to climb braking, I forgot about the trailer brakes locking up. I could not climb anything. Actually never figured it out until on the way home. DUH!!!!

Bob

www.aspenXtrails.com

951 692 0958

 

[John E Davies]

I am definitely going to get the electric drum braked axle then (This). I will have to call them tomorrow to find out what I also need in addition to the in-cab brake controller.

That axle assembly doesn't have the parking brake feature - but maybe you can call and have them swap in the correct left and right backing plate assemblies. It will cost extra. I have never seen an axle offered with the P brakes installed.

If they won't swap the brakes, it may be cheaper to buy a bare axle, a set of drums (with bearings and hubs) and then bolt on the correct P brakes yourself. It's only four bolts per side.

Yes, chocks work OK, but they don't lock your wheels rock solid, so you will experience more rocking motion when you move around inside your teardrop. Plus a parking brake on a trailer is just so COOL, and it deploys in an instant - no digging around inside your truck for those chocks.

If you buy a P3 controller, you won't go wrong. http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-90195-Electronic-Brake-Control/dp/B000P17NXQ. Check around and you may find a better price. I won mine at a Dual Sport motorcycle ride... Here is some info on the one I installed in a RAV4: ..... http://www.spokanister.net/Vehicles_RAV4_Brake_control.html

EDIT: This place has it for US$125: ... http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpages/tekonsha_p3.htm

John Davies
Spokane WA USA