seanpistol's 01 Tundra

seanpistol

Explorer
I've been wanting to do this for a while. Did either of them describe what suspension mods went along with the 35s?

Pretty sure Benc's brother in law that owns the truck is only at 2" of suspension lift. Devinsixtyseven has the Camburg race kit long travel with 4x4 axles.


I'll copy and paste some info I've come across in researching to get you guys thinking.



From Devinsixtyseven with regards to tubbing a 1st-gen Tundra-

"Cutting for 35" Tires is a much more extensive modification and requires sheetmetal skill with a MIG or TIG welder, as well as trimming either the stock sheetmetal fender or a fiberglass replacement. Follow the guide on Trails Less Traveled (link elsewhere in this thread) to find the areas in need of a trim. When cutting, pull the upholstery and use a wet towel to catch sparks. Keep a fire extinguisher, a bucket of water, and some wet shop rags nearby when grinding or welding on the cab. Use an air saw or sawzall when possible, try to avoid using a cutting wheel, particularly on the structural channel where it's impossible at first to catch any sparks. Be extremely careful working on the lower structural channel in general, be certain to re-pinch and weld the channel, and replace any removed metal with at least an equivalent thickness in an equivalent position to provide strength. It's very important to remove as much paint and undercoat around the planned weld areas as possible. 3M makes an excellent gap filler and undercoat base layer to apply on the inside and outside of any joints. The fender can be reattached at the bottom using a vertical self-tapping bolt into the bottom of the structural channel, with a nylon spacer between fender and cab. Depending on the wheel and tire, the tire may interfere at the body mount at the rear of the wheel well. If this is the case, a suspension lift or drop bracket will also be required."

"""You need a small welder, a small cutoff/flap/grinding wheel, and a small reciprocating saw, in addition to the usual hand tools. This is necessary even with 33" tires, so like I said, do it once, for 35" tires. The best covering for the job is Herculiner, and the task will take a weekend of long hours to tub, plus several days of adding layers of Herculiner to the new, bare steel. It's nothing that demands action now now now, just something to keep in mind for the future. It's also not a bad idea to prepare yourself for the sight of empty space in the wheel well!

The lower fender support bolt disappears, so you'd need to come up with another way to attach the stock fender. Also, I'm not 100% sure the tire will fit in the stock well without pulling the inner fender. There's only about 3/4" clearance from a 35" tire to the top of the wheel well, and I mean the inner wheel well."""



From Benc on tubbing his brother-in-law's 1st-gen Tundra-

"I used a cut off wheel for the whole thing , seams to work the best. His took us about 3 hours a side, you will want someone inside the truck while you weld with a wet towel to stop any fires. I like to use 16 ga because you are cutting into the door pillar. Some people seam to not need to trim and plate the body mount but I did on his and mine. After you weld caulk all the welds inside and out ( I used exterior latex and smoothed it out) as for the inner fender, they will have to be removed. The bolt on the lower fender will have to be moved. All the interior needed was minor trimming on the kick panels . You will also need at least 1-1/2 in wheel spacers to clear the frame while turning. We had to do nothing to the rear to fit 35s"



There is a lot more info on tubbing if it's not related to Tundras. Pirate4x4 has several how to's on old 4runners and such, with plenty of photos. I can't find the links I had saved at one time. Seems pretty easy to do, just time consuming. And I wouldn't want to run 35's without at least 4.56 gears, which aren't cheap.
 
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seanpistol

Explorer
Well boys, sold the sweet camper shell. I literally never use it except for sleeping in while camping, and constantly need to take it off to throw my motorcycle or a snowmobile in the back. My good friend that also has a 1st-Gen Tundra just scored a used pop up that needs a little work. He told me if I help him fix it up, I can use it as much as I want. So, I happily sold that shell I only paid $100 for, for $1,000. I love Craigslist. I decided that profit is going back into the truck.

Really excited about this purchase I just made on ebay.

$900 for a brand new RD129 locker on a third member with 4.10 gears. This is less than the cost of the locker alone and I'll be able to swap it in myself, quick and easy since I've had all the axles in my truck out at some point fixing rear seals, swapping CV boots, etc. I've made the decision to stick with 285s for now. How much bigger and meatier my new tires are than my previous has had me excited. I was on the phone with CruiserOutfitters down the road about picking up a compressor, and they said the 4.10s is almost 20% from my stock 3.91s and would be noticeable with my 285s. Plus- it saves me money by doing it this way. Don't have to pay $150 to have someone set up the locker on my third. And I can get a few hundred bucks back by selling my stock front and rear diffs.




I'm going to buy a front diff with 4.10s and ADD that will bolt right in. Looks like I'll pay about $300 for one on ebay. This web page has the information on exactly what late model 7.5" front diff will work- and it shows why the early 7.5" T-100 diff I purchased wouldn't work. Wish I came across this earlier, but you live and you learn.
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#taco_ifs
 
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trailscape

Explorer
Wow, I'd been wanting that camper shell setup forever. Fortunately, I did recently piece one together locally for cheap but the condition leaves a bit to be desired. Nice score on the locker though.
 

rickashay

Explorer
Nice score on the diff! Definitely a great deal.

You purchased the T100 4.30s and they didnt work... but can we run the 4.30 gears from a 1st Gen Tacoma as they would have the 8.4" rear diff also? Im assuming any 4.30 7.5" diff from a 3rd Gen 4Runner or 1st Gen Tacoma would work? Now all this talk has me thinking for when I go to 35's... I want to keep my RPMS lower for highway driving.
 

seanpistol

Explorer
Nice score on the diff! Definitely a great deal.

You purchased the T100 4.30s and they didnt work... but can we run the 4.30 gears from a 1st Gen Tacoma as they would have the 8.4" rear diff also? Im assuming any 4.30 7.5" diff from a 3rd Gen 4Runner or 1st Gen Tacoma would work? Now all this talk has me thinking for when I go to 35's... I want to keep my RPMS lower for highway driving.

This is the best resource I have found for what gears are compatible- http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...=http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#taco_ifs
 

rickashay

Explorer
There is a lot more info on tubbing if it's not related to Tundras. Pirate4x4 has several how to's on old 4runners and such, with plenty of photos. I can't find the links I had saved at one time. Seems pretty easy to do, just time consuming. And I wouldn't want to run 35's without at least 4.56 gears, which aren't cheap.

I'm leaning 4.56 gears too for 35's. However I have 4.10's now (limited w/LSD) and feel like it could probably turn the 35's ok without a re-gear. I have a potential line on a COMPLETE 4.7 TRD Supercharger. I'm wondering if this would make up for a re-gear cause it would be roughly the same price. Great info posted above BTW, where did you find all of those pics of Benc's inlaws Tundra? I'd love to see more pics of that truck.

This is the best resource I have found for what gears are compatible- http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...=http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#taco_ifs

Thanks for the link.
 

seanpistol

Explorer
I'm leaning 4.56 gears too for 35's. However I have 4.10's now (limited w/LSD) and feel like it could probably turn the 35's ok without a re-gear. I have a potential line on a COMPLETE 4.7 TRD Supercharger. I'm wondering if this would make up for a re-gear cause it would be roughly the same price.

I would hop on Tundrasolutions and send a private message to jamesjr4750. He seems to be the guru of TRD Superchargers. I've had some extensive chats with him about gears, and he really knows his stuff. He has a supercharger on his truck, and runs 35s with 4.56's and ARB lockers front and rear. If you inquire, let me know what he says about 35s on 4.10s...

I'd guess you'd be okay for a while with 35s and 4.10s, but you're still going to want lower gears eventually.
 
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seanpistol

Explorer
Just pulled the trigger on a front diff out of a 2001 Taco with 4.10s, 120k miles, electronic ADD, and a 90day warranty. Apparently pre-2000 Tacos had a vacuum operated ADD. I was told it's as easy as removing 4 bolts for the vacuum actuator and swapping in our electronic one, but after reading this article, I decided to just find one with an electronic operated ADD. - http://www.yotatech.com/f31/front-diff-swap-vacuum-vs-electric-26459/

I like to post what I paid for things because I am always on a budget, or at least frugal with my funds. $240 shipped for the front diff. $900 for the brand new ARB locker and rear diff. Compressor and switches will be $170. Hoping to get back a few hundred bucks from selling me front and rear differentials with 3.91s. I think this is just about the cheapest way I could have possibly regeared and added a selectable locker.

I have a few days off late next week, hoping to do the swap go test the locker out next weekend. Still need to swing by CruiserOutfitters down the road to pick up the compressor.
 
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Derek24

Explorer
Nice! You should feel a difference. My sequoia feels a lot better with 285s than my tundra did. Not sure if the sequoia is lighter at all but it seems faster having 4.10s
 

BrianTN

Adventurer
Sean, how do you like the suspension? Right now I have 5100s up front and rear with Wheeler's AAL and plan to add some Camburg or Light Racing UCA. Eventually I'll probably grab some ICON coil overs and Deaver spring pack, but this should hold me over for a while.
 

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