Best towing rotors? cryogenically treated, no hype

rebar

Adventurer
I need to order rotors for my 95 E350 SRW rear abs van with a D60 drum rear.

I will be towing up to 10k and I will use my manual 5 speed as much as I can going down mountain passes. But I want to upgrade to premium front rotors and pads. I don't think I need drilled and slotted, but I do want cryogenically treated. Yes the trailer has good brakes.

Which aftermarket rotors should I consider?

Thanks
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
You need to dial in your brake controller if you are running out of brakes on factory rotors.

FYI, Ive towed 18k multiple time in Idaho mountains with my '96 F250 without brake fade or warped rotors.

Truck has 250k miles, FACTORY installed rotors.



With all that said the only rotor I would run on these big Fords if I didnt want OEM are RAYBESTOS. Not cheap though. But neither is OEM.
 

rebar

Adventurer
I haven't even towed with this new van.. But I felt pulsing under hard fast braking on the way home and the PO said he wanted to replace them so Im not taking any chances..

I want a step above "over the counter rotors".

The Raybestos "quiet on arrival" police rotors are interesting.. Not sure I need that though.
 

plainjaneFJC

Deplorable
I tow 20k all the time. If you are warping rotors then the trailer brakes are not working properly. That being said I'm all for upgrading.
 

rebar

Adventurer
Thanks.
I have no idea how bad the PO abused this van. He towed 10k.. lent it out..
I don't like the front end and will see how it runs after replacing the center steering drag link/pitman BJ, and rotors. I bet it will make a huge difference.

doesn't anyone make cyro rotors without holes or slots?
 
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Kaisen

Explorer
You could always buy normal rotors and send them out for cryo treatment. There are companies that will cryo treat anything.
 

Gooseberry

Explorer
Try Brakeman in ventura california he might. I have them on the SMB front but they are breaks off a roachcoach and not ford.

Thanks.
I have no idea how bad the PO abused this van. He towed 10k.. lent it out..
I don't like the front end and will see how it runs after replacing the center steering drag link/pitman BJ, and rotors. I bet it will make a huge difference.

doesn't anyone make cyro rotors without holes or slots?
 

eviioiive

Observer
Even brembo will admit drilled/slotted is for looks. What's really important is proper break in. When people think a rotor is warped it's usually pad material that has transfered to the rotor making a high spot.

Hawks are good-get a set, do proper break in and you're gtg
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
More importantly, you have an E350 van with a 5-speed manual trans????????? COOL!! :)

I don't buy the hype of cryogenic rotors. They are probably quality units, but I'm not sure the cryo does much at all. It's all about getting the heat out of the rotors before you stop and sit, and making sure they're true when you mount them up. The pulsing you feel is not because the rotors are warped, it's because they have thick and thin areas. This can be caused as a result of rotors being warped, but it also can happen because they had some runout when they were first mounted. It's called DTV, "diametrical thickness variation".

You can spend big money for rotors, but no matter how much you spend, mount the rotors up w/o the tire and wheel and use a dial indicator to make sure they don't have any runout as they're turned. More than .003" of runout will quickly lead to DTV and a pulsing pedal. Put lug nuts on to hold the rotor, put the dial indicator against the side of the rotor, where the pads contact it, and watch the dial as you turn the rotor. Any more than about .003" and you're going to get pedal pulsing again. I've seen new rotors with as much as .010" of runout that is the rotor, not the hub. Even though the rotor is new, it's junk.

FYI, the slots help to keep the pads in contact with the rotor when the brakes are HOT and the pads are off gassing, the holes add more cooling surface to get the heat out faster. People who buy into the cryogenic treatment are looking for MAX performance, so that's why you're seeing the three together.

Honestly, if you check runout on the rotors when you mount them, and make sure the rear brakes are working well, along with trailer brakes, you'll be fine.
The van you have was likely a) Abused, b) Neglected, and c) Serviced by someone who didn't give a crap. :)

Good luck!
Chris
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Non vented or slotted Brembos. Just plain smooth rotors. EBC Yellow pads.

To be honest. Napa rotors are fine on 4 wheel disc vans. But Napa pads are garbage. Too much material. Brakes get hot, then they drag for the first 10,000miles until they get worn down some. Pain to install as well. EBC Yellow are the good stuff. Lesson learned.

(I'm not familiar with olde drum Econolines)
 

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