Evans waterless coolant

Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
I have done everything to my diesel to stop coolant problems. Head studs, deleted the whole EGR system, all the updates from Ford. The well known diesel specialist in the area cant even figure it out. Doesnt pop any codes and the temperature does not even go up while its happening. I just hate smelling coolant after I hammer on it for a bit. The smart thing would be to stop hammering it,,,but thats no fun. Only possible explanation I was toldby different mechanics and such is air is getting into the system or its trapped in the sysytem and it is building up too much pressure and blowing out the resevoir cap (and yes I have replaced the cap and the resevoir).
If that's a sand cast block then wire brushes in all the water passages may solve it. Sand gets stuck and petrified in there sometimes.
 

Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
I may be completely on a different track , but don't you want micro bubbles to form and break away as they are helping transfer more enthalpy to the coolant. I'll have to over think it some more I am sure. I do know the closer you run to water the greater heat transfer capability you will have, but you do have to run it under pressure and it will suck when it displaces or emulsifies the oil.
You are having boil over issues, you should look for the reason why and fix it not put a bandaid on it.
Weird science for sure. The instant water turns to vapor it absorbs a lot of heat. It's what this vapor does or in this case does not do after is the issue. In the head its not cooling as well after its vapor. That's why two identical engines running at a controlled thermostat temp will have the one with Evans reading a lower head temp even thou the coolant is the same temp. Read up on why Jay Leno uses Evans in his multi million dollar car and bike collection. I don't have time now to look but I think he says its good for 20 years without corrosion.
 

bfdiesel

Explorer
Weird science for sure. The instant water turns to vapor it absorbs a lot of heat. It's what this vapor does or in this case does not do after is the issue. In the head its not cooling as well after its vapor. That's why two identical engines running at a controlled thermostat temp will have the one with Evans reading a lower head temp even thou the coolant is the same temp. Read up on why Jay Leno uses Evans in his multi million dollar car and bike collection. I don't have time now to look but I think he says its good for 20 years without corrosion.

I have yet to need coolant to last for twenty years. I just need it to cool.
 

highdesertranger

Adventurer
so right off the bat in the op I see that in a pressurized system you must maintain the temp below the boiling point of water. bs that is the whole idea of a pressurized system to raise the boiling point then the addition of coolant raises the bp even more. pushing junk science or just misleading. highdesertranger
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
I run this stuff in ALL of my bikes and ATV's and it works. I race cross country and hare scrambles, when we get into some tight nasty stuff with killer hills and we work the crap out of our bikes there is always a pile of steaming bikes. The common fix, especially for the KTM crowd (and mostly due to the HP not crappy bikes) is electric fans, bigger rads. It sometimes is enough. We are not boiling over by much, maybe 10-20% and not all the time, but it's an issue that can put you out of contention pretty quick. With Evans in the cooling system, stock rads, no electric fans, I NEVER boil. That being said, it is cheaper to run a premium coolant. I use caution when in these situations and try to get moving ASAP to get the airflow, but it's an edge for sure. The electric fans on my 700 Kawasaki quad run substantially less than when the system had glycol based coolant in it, I would say the thermal properties are better as well. I really like the fact that there is almost no cooling system pressure with this stuff, pop the cap off at operating temp and no burst of coolant, makes me feel a little better if my son or I ram a stick or something through a rad and don't have to deal with pressurized steam.

For the diesel stuff, I can see how the different fan settings and increased running temperatures are beneficial, engines are not the most efficient at 200 degrees, its just where conventional coolants are happy. A few years back some engine manufacturers were having issues with cylinder liners pin-holing from the outside in. I have seen this on 3406 Cat engines myself, and they were generally not susceptible to that condition. The pin holes were caused by localized coolant boiling on the surface of the cylinder liners while under high load, the cast iron was deteriorating because of it, Water Wetter was actually recommended to prevent this condition, this is a condition that can also introduce air into a cooling system. I will be putting Evans in my F-650 as soon as I swap my camper over from my F-700, it has a Cat C7 in it with almost no miles on it so my train of thought is put in a premium coolant now, and it will pay for itself over time. How much longer will a gasket or seal last with no pressure on it? With a much friendlier coolant that glycol working on it?
 

bfdiesel

Explorer
The pin hole thing is from cavitation on the wall caused by high compression and the rapid expansion and contraction of the iron, this can happen with cold coolant. While under high load the cylinder pressures increase and the iron is hotter and more ductile letting it expand and contract just a little bit more. The cure for it is coolant with the proper additives (SCA's).

So do your Bikes and ATV's actually run cooler or do they just not boil over?

The OP is trying to run cooler from what I gathered, but if he does have air locked in his system then different coolant will do little to help.

Evans is interesting in how it would take alot more energy to boil which allows you to get the temperature differental across the radiator higher, kind of like cooling the outside air up to 100-150 degrees.
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
The pin hole thing is from cavitation on the wall caused by high compression and the rapid expansion and contraction of the iron, this can happen with cold coolant. While under high load the cylinder pressures increase and the iron is hotter and more ductile letting it expand and contract just a little bit more. The cure for it is coolant with the proper additives (SCA's).

So do your Bikes and ATV's actually run cooler or do they just not boil over?

The OP is trying to run cooler from what I gathered, but if he does have air locked in his system then different coolant will do little to help.

Evans is interesting in how it would take alot more energy to boil which allows you to get the temperature differental across the radiator higher, kind of like cooling the outside air up to 100-150 degrees.


My bikes don't boil over with it, it definitely gets me over that threshold and keeps me going. My quad doesn't cycle the fan nearly as much so there is a possibility of better thermal transfer but I have not investigated that any further.

I have seen the cavitation issue with the diesels is also be a source of air introduction into cooling systems, odd for a sealed system but definitely happens, we have flushed cooling systems and used Water Wetter on some chronic hot running trucks and have seen the air issue disappear, I would imagine Evans would do the same or better. The Evans consistency is interesting, almost like a light mineral oil.
 

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