Simple and cheap: LCI/Scepter jerry can gravity fed running water

[KF6KKM]

I didn't want to spend much money making an on/off gravity fed water system using my LCI water cans; so I spent some time at the local lowes and picked up a barbed/crimped 3/4 in to 3/4 in male threaded PVC fitting and a 3/4 in female valve spout and connected them together. The inner diameter of the pour spout on the LCI can is 3/4 in as well; so I was able to tap the barbed end of the PVC fitting into the spout, creating a water tight seal. After the initial insertion using the mallet, I was able to remove and re-insert the fitting with the valve attached by hand and still get a water tight seal. So, for about 5 or 6 dollars and an LCI/Scepter can, you can have running water.

For operation, I found that as long as I open the pour valve first, then the air valve, there is no leakage from the air valve. Order of shutoff is the same: pour valve, then air valve and again, no leakage from the air valve.

Here is the connector and valve. This is after I tamped the connector in with the mallet and removed it.


Here is the connector and valve in the LCI can. This time, I inserted it by hand.


As you can see, it's not leaking. The can is about half full here.


The pour valve and air valve are both open in this picture. You can hear the air valve working.


Enjoy!

 

[Driver-Navigator]

FWIW I just run a Super Siphon through the same opening in the cap. It fits just right and once primed you have pressurized water delivery on tap whenever you need it. Just stick the end of the tube into the bend of the cap's strap to halt the flow until needed again.

 

[KF6KKM]

Now, with pressure

I drilled a hole and added a valve stem to the lid, connected a short hose, and ran it to my camping table sink. With 20 pumps on the bike pump the water runs for two minutes. No noticeable air leaks in the water can when pressurized.

The installed valve stem:


The other side:


The bike pump connected:


Another view of the pump connected:


The whole system:


Connected to the sink:


Water runs continuously for about two minutes before it runs out of pressure:


My next step is going to be connecting the air compressor that inflates my air springs on my Tacoma to the water can through an external port (also going to install a pneumatic directional control valve to make that possible) to provide continuous pressure.

 

[sytfu510]

very cool, may have to do something similar myself.

 

[Ramjet]

Yep, that's what I was missing at Expo. Water pressure for washing dishes and such. Really sweet.

 

[XPLORx4]

What kind of threads are on the cap through which you inserted the barbed PVC fitting? Could you have just screwed on a hose attached to a multiposition spray nozzle?

 

[robgendreau]

What kind of threads are on the cap through which you inserted the barbed PVC fitting? Could you have just screwed on a hose attached to a multiposition spray nozzle?

If you mean the threads in the LC can's pour spout, they're a type of square thread although I can't remember the name, and only on the outside. I never could find anything to fit that. You might be able to ram on a metal fitting, but I found it easier to use the inside of that spout rather than the threaded outside.

But the inside is a pretty true 3/4". And it turns out lots of 1/2" plumbing stuff (that's 1/2" INSIDE diameter) has a 3/4" outside. For example, some 1/2" ID heater tubing for a car fits in rather snugly; probably wouldn't hold under pressure but a little glue would fix that. That's not probably best for drinking water; for that I'd use the 1/2" braided vinyl tubing, like this: http://morebeer.com/products/tubing-reinforced-vinyl-12.html

Other stuff to consider is sched 40 PVC as noted above, although I found the OD just a little too big. But with some reaming and/or a BFH you'd get it in.

I bought a brass hose bibb with a long shank, again 1/2". It's LDR part no. 020 7523. You could probably also use a brass nipple. The metal threads act like a self-tap so you can just screw it through. I then used a 1/2" PVC fitting with female threads on the inside of the lid to attach a longish PVC dip tube. It doesn't quite reach the bottom; in retrospect attaching tubing that would jam against the bottom might be better. Use some teflon thread tape. If you don't want to go with the brass fittings, just get some 1/2" pipe and use it to cut some sorta threads on the inside of the spout, and then use threaded PVC fittings instead. My hardware store even had some flexible hose with male 1/2" fitting already installed.

BTW, if you can is elevated at all, you only need enough of a squirt of air to push the liquid up and out the top of the valve/tube; then it will work as a siphon if you open the stock air valve. If you've installed a dip tube you don't even need to tilt the can over. Not a pressure feed, but good for filling say a tank in a camper or trailer.

It also might be possible to use a 3/4" OD hose barb with a threaded pipe fitting on the other end and cram that into the spout hole; I didn't try that.

These are GREAT cans. Highly recommend them.

Rob

 

[grandpa]

"Property of the U.S. Government" Think they'll want it back? With my luck I'd be thrown in jail for having US property. :ylsmoke:

 

[KF6KKM]

"Property of the U.S. Government" Think they'll want it back? With my luck I'd be thrown in jail for having US property. :ylsmoke:

I had the same concern, being as I'm in the Army. I didn't want some supply SGT to think I walked out of the motor pool with my jerry cans. I have my buyLCI receipt tucked safely away in my filing drawer, just in case...

 

[KF6KKM]

What kind of threads are on the cap through which you inserted the barbed PVC fitting? Could you have just screwed on a hose attached to a multiposition spray nozzle?

As mentioned, but I'll answer your question as well, the inside of the scepter can's pour spout is smooth. The 3/4" barbed to threaded coupler stays put even when under pressure. I maintain a continuous 5 psi in the can with my truck's on board compressor as the air source; and the barbed coupler stays put. You can't screw on a garden hose without something similar to what I have depicted in the original post. The outer threads of the LCI water can are non-standard.

 

[McZippie]

Here's my non pressurized LCI water can set-up with RV parts from Amazon or any RV store.
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http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22484-Water-Bandit/dp/B000EDOSKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374335339&sr=8-1&keywords=water+bandit
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http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-0031VP-Quick-Fill-Shut-Off/dp/B000IZSB2Q/ref=pd_sim_auto_1

 

[KF6KKM]

Nice find! Looks like that water bandit is multi-purpose. Great piece of gear, and inexpensive.

 

[AA1PR]

I guess I am really frugal this was around $3
I purchased at the local hardware store a hand pump meant for fuel even though I use it like this, its all color coded for my kids
even though here its shown with the rhino cans & not the blue scepter cans I have (just what we happened to be using that day)
less parts, less chance murphy will strike his ugly head