SYE or not...

bowstryder

Observer
Hi everyone. I have been lurking here for quite a while and finally need some assistance on my burb build. I have a 1990 v1500 lifted 6" front (tuff country ez's) and 6 1/2" rear via tuff country hd (4" and ord 2 1/2" shackle flip) and 33's. I plan on going with another inch up front with zero rates. As of right now I have the factory 10 bolt's which will be replaced with a 14b/60 combo upon my return to the states along with some 37" mt/r kevlars. I don't really hit the hard unbeaten path with this tank but it see's a fair share of ruts, rocks, and various other terrain. My main question is do I need to throw a sye in the np241 or just lengthen the rear and front shafts after the final suspension fit?? I know all about the axle swap items I'll need but am torn in this area.
My jeep GC needed a sye after going over 4 1/2" but as this monster has much less of an angle to the axle I am unsure.
Forgive me first off if this base has been covered repeatedly but the internet service here isn't the best and I don't have a huge amount of time to spend on my laptop. I have also tried to upload a couple photos off my computer without much success either.... it seems that I do better with tools in hand rather than a keyboard. Thanks ahead of time and keep up the great work on this site!!!
bowstryder
afghanistan
 

bowstryder

Observer
I almost forgot to mention, this build is aiming for a bulletproof tank that will be treated well unless the worst occurs, so I am wanting it bulletproof (so to speak).
 

dieselfuel

Adventurer
slip yokes are a weak point in the drivetrain, especially on rigs as heavy as ours. i plan on getting a SYE kit for my '89 suburban when all the drive train goes back into the truck. Having broken a rear shaft before, theyre not fun to deal with. i had to tape a plastic bottle over the slip yoke yousing to drive it back to town in front wheel drive, lost a fair amount of ATF from the case. if you're gonna mess with drivelines, you might as well do it right the first time and get rid of the slip yoke.
 

swirvin21

Hard Corps
In terms of making a 241 bulletproof, an SYE isn't necessarily going to make it stronger. However, they will greatly increase your ability to repair or more importantly prevent additional damage. Nothing worse that blowing a simple u-joint and losing quart after quart of expensive fluid as it pours out of the slip yoke. In addition, the seals on slip yokes have a tendency to leak after extended use, so again it's a maintenance issue.

I would definitely consider an SYE if you plan any travel that takes you away from civilization or access to parts. When you break a u-joint with a slip yoke, you have to carry a plug with you to fill the hole or risk losing fluid. I've seen some redneck MIT contraptions used, but it's a short term or questionable bomb at best. An SYE installed will allow you to just throw it in 4wd and drive with the front if you're in a precarious position. JB Conversions has a good SYE available.

Unfortunately, there are not that many 241 SYEs and they can be expensive. Since you have the room, you make consider upgrading to a newer 271 from a 2002+ Ram or 98+ Ford. It's a larger and stronger case, same ratio and not much bigger. The Ford version has a fixed yoke already installed, SYE installed, but the Ram has a slip yoke in stock form. You can convert using Ford parts however.
 

bowstryder

Observer
Thank you fellas. I appreciate the input. Pretty much what I suspected all along as far as just do it and be done with it as it is much nicer when things go south regarding the drive shaft. And I am highly aware it won't make the 241 any stronger, just making the point I want to make the vehicle as reliable as possible. I will look into the ford and dodge cases as well. Never really heard of that being done but seems very viable and I am always ready to upgrade the parts I change out for strength and durability. I also wasn't aware they would bolt up to a 700r4.
 

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