Share the best ideas from you favorite vehicle that can be applied to other vehicles

[evilfij]

I have always been a land rover guy, but since being on expo I have been reading more about other brands and picking up some great ideas and I think cross pollination between makes would improve them all so, in that spirit, lets share some ideas that will work across brands. I will start with some things that are common in the land rover world, but not too common outside of it.

1. The best is hot dip galvanizing chassis. No rust ever and quite reasonable to do. I am not sure why people paint or powdercoat chassis on other brands when galvanizing is so much more effective.

2. The factory land rover jack on range rover from 87-02, and defenders and discos from 94-04 is a great piece of kit. Double telescoping it allow you to jack up a flat oversized tire without resorting to a hi lift.

3. The LT230 t-case. Capable of handling lots of power, full time 4wd with locking diff with passenger output drop front and rear (so it is lower than a normal t case where the output is in line with the transmission output).

4. Dixon bate style tow jaws. Great recovery points.

 

[bfdiesel]

For number one there has always been a rumor it would lower the strength of the frame do to blah, blah , blah. Testing has shown otherwise, but rumors still. Also the frame has to be stripped and sent away for who knows how long and for those of us in desert climates who don't even need to use paint and will be fine the question is "Why bother?" Under coating in a can is cheap and I can clean it off to weld if needed and then coat it again cheap. Gavanizing will burn off and is not good to breath when welded on and the frame would need to be coated again with something. Even though it is not an everyday problem, it is still something to remember.

For number two I do like a bottle jack over the other stock options.

Things I like are legos. I like that gmc is mostly interchangable, opens up options and helps when trying to find parts. I also like powertrains that have had ten or more year runs for the avalibility of parts.

I know little about the LT230, but I like np205's. Tough, easy to twin stick, very long production run, no diff, both married and divorced units avaliable and good after market support. Cheap to double with a np203.

I love hydro assist brakes on a diesel, as vacuum pumps can never seem to keep up with the vacuum booster.

Lockers, more vehicles that have selectable lockers at least in the rear (and in the front would be bonus).

I like manual hubs, or the vacuum/manual hubs Ford uses now are ok.

 

[bfdiesel]

Do you actuallyt know of a place that would galvanize a frame for reasonable in the Mid Atlantic? Have you actually had this done? A few years ago I wanted a longer tongue for one of my boat trailers. The cost to get the steel tubing galvanized was unreal as I wasn't trying to get 1,000 peices done at once. I got lucky and found what I needed frame a trailer dealer for much, much less.

Price seems to vary alot between areas and places that will do it.

 

[evilfij]

Do you actuallyt know of a place that would galvanize a frame for reasonable in the Mid Atlantic? Have you actually had this done? A few years ago I wanted a longer tongue for one of my boat trailers. The cost to get the steel tubing galvanized was unreal as I wasn't trying to get 1,000 peices done at once. I got lucky and found what I needed frame a trailer dealer for much, much less.

There is a place in New Castle Delaware.

http://www.hotdipgalvanizing.com/locations/newcastle.html

I personally have not done a frame (I did a bulkhead and some t-pieces), but several land rover friends have done so and the prices seem reasonable. There is a minimum, but a frame should hit the minimum. Me and another rover owner are going to send a bunch of stuff out soon. Often a couple people get together for a run if they individually do not have enough to meet the minimum.

 

[LR Max]

Galvanising is a European thing. Back when I worked for a European company, the engineers over there specified everything to be galvanised. Always complicated things and was expensive.

That said, its a pretty serious protective coating.

I can't think of anything useful on my 40 year old truck that would apply to newer vehicles.

 

[RedF]

Galvanising is a European thing. Back when I worked for a European company, the engineers over there specified everything to be galvanised. Always complicated things and was expensive.

That said, its a pretty serious protective coating.

I can't think of anything useful on my 40 year old truck that would apply to newer vehicles.

Simplicity?

 

[Metcalf]

Some things......

-Find an alternative way to fit those larger tires rather than lift. Cut, trim, move the axle, lift the fender, etc.

-Lighter weight works. I have never really seen a vehicle that was just too light. There are rules in just about every racing organization about weight for a reason.

-Try and keep the front end heavier than the rear. Much harder than it sounds, but I feel this makes for a MUCH better performing chassis all around.

-Try and keep the weight LOW. Space is at a premium and generally I think people take WAY too much stuff. Any kind of roof rack should be the last resort. Just because you have the space doesn't mean that you need to fill it with stuff.

-Don't put tons of heavy gear behind the rear axle. It not only adds weight to the rear, but dynamically takes weight OFF the front axle at the same time.

-Don't be afraid to try something different even if it doesn't work. At least you'll know what NOT to do

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Skidplates and cross members.... Many can be adapted to other vehicles. When swapping drivetrain components, may not hurt to try the crossmembers off the donor vehicle. Many vehicles are quite vunerable underneath and you may be able to get some protection by finding skidplates off another vehicle. Some manufacturers actually put decent plate underneath.

 

[LR Max]

Simplicity?

I assure you that despite simplicity, newer vehicles are far more reliable and capable and take just as much time and money to repair when something goes wrong.

 

[Metcalf]

I assure you that despite simplicity, newer vehicles are far more reliable and capable and take just as much time and money to repair when something goes wrong.

I call bullpucky on that one. Older parts, as long as they where somewhat common applications, are much easier and cheaper to find.

The best thing about older vehicles is that you CAN repair them in the field. A lot of newer vehicles, while pretty reliable, have one time use parts that can't be repaired in the field without having the entire unit....wheel bearings, chains in transfer cases instead of gears, brakes systems, fuel injection parts, etc.

I'm not against the newer stuff really, but the old stuff, if properly maintained does a VERY good job at staying together. I just took my old Willys on a 2000+ mile trip and had only very minor issues. The most major thing was a squeaky wheel bearing. I was able to inspect and repack it on the road with tools on board in about an hour. No big deal.

Nothing is 100% reliable over a long enough time. Can you fix it when and where it breaks down without calling AAA. Tools, spare parts, and some ingenuity go a long way.

 

[southpier]

Some things......

-Find an alternative way to fit those larger tires rather than lift. Cut, trim, move the axle, lift the fender, etc.

-Lighter weight works. I have never really seen a vehicle that was just too light. There are rules in just about every racing organization about weight for a reason.

-Try and keep the front end heavier than the rear. Much harder than it sounds, but I feel this makes for a MUCH better performing chassis all around.

-Try and keep the weight LOW. Space is at a premium and generally I think people take WAY too much stuff. Any kind of roof rack should be the last resort. Just because you have the space doesn't mean that you need to fill it with stuff.

-Don't put tons of heavy gear behind the rear axle. It not only adds weight to the rear, but dynamically takes weight OFF the front axle at the same time.

-Don't be afraid to try something different even if it doesn't work. At least you'll know what NOT to do

this all makes mucho logic to me. But what's the downside of a "normal" (less than 4"-???) lift? I understand extremes put pressure on things, but thought a 2"-3" lift was the easiest and most cost effective way to get them big sneakers rollin'.

 

[bfdiesel]

I call bullpucky on that one. Older parts, as long as they where somewhat common applications, are much easier and cheaper to find.

The best thing about older vehicles is that you CAN repair them in the field. A lot of newer vehicles, while pretty reliable, have one time use parts that can't be repaired in the field without having the entire unit....wheel bearings, chains in transfer cases instead of gears, brakes systems, fuel injection parts, etc.

I'm not against the newer stuff really, but the old stuff, if properly maintained does a VERY good job at staying together. I just took my old Willys on a 2000+ mile trip and had only very minor issues. The most major thing was a squeaky wheel bearing. I was able to inspect and repack it on the road with tools on board in about an hour. No big deal.

Nothing is 100% reliable over a long enough time. Can you fix it when and where it breaks down without calling AAA. Tools, spare parts, and some ingenuity go a long way.

I am glad you called bullpucky because I was about to.
I am sure if you take everything to a shop that they could get you to believe it is just as much though. Esspecially if it is a dealership.

 

[Metcalf]

this all makes mucho logic to me. But what's the downside of a "normal" (less than 4"-???) lift? I understand extremes put pressure on things, but thought a 2"-3" lift was the easiest and most cost effective way to get them big sneakers rollin'.

I think even a 4" lift can have a VERY detrimental effect on a vehicles overall performance. This is coming from a guy that is running about a NEGATIVE 1/2" lift and 35s on my little flat fender and only leveling springs on the front of my dodge that has 39" tires so I am probably one extreme.

 

[madmax718]

Armor is usually more effective than lift, but lift does give you break over angle and departure angle.

 

[plumber mike]

Reciprocating saw aka Sawzall.

Can be applied to any vehicle.
Works like a lift to allow for larger tires.
Can be used to change approach and departure angles.
Reduced weight after cutting off useless stuff saves fuel.