"The Hulk Gets Angry" aka stevenmd's RRC build

Green96D1

Explorer
stevenmd said:
Thanks. I am saving up for a 109 to rebuild from the ground up for use as a daily driver/long trip type vehicle. Once I am done with that project the rangie will be used mainly as a trail rig.

I know your still in the suspension build right now.

but the awesome thing you have 2 main areas protected. diff guards and silders. Have you gave though to front and rear bumpers "you know it never ends". Building your bumpers will be much simpler because of the lines of the classic.

in the end Hulk will be unbreakable.:eatchicke
 
Last edited:

madizell

Explorer
stevenmd said:
double cardan front drive shaft, and possibly a double double cardan in the rear, not sure yet.

Double Cardans, or CV's, serve mostly to deal with either extreme drive angles or compound angles in the drive line that otherwise cause growling. A 3 inch lift should not create severe drive angles. Double double cardan is something I would not expect to see needed on a road machine. Is there a reason you anticipate the need?
 

stevenmd

Expedition Leader
madizell said:
Double Cardans, or CV's, serve mostly to deal with either extreme drive angles or compound angles in the drive line that otherwise cause growling. A 3 inch lift should not create severe drive angles. Double double cardan is something I would not expect to see needed on a road machine. Is there a reason you anticipate the need?

I need a DC in the front to smooth it out. I was thinking possibly a DDC in the rear b/c it will be a dedicated trail rig in a few years and I will be putting a better suspension on it.
 

SMD

Adventurer
You may need more than a DC for the front vibe. I have a DC with my lift on the Disco and still have vibes. I have RTE castor corrected radius arms which were great when I was running the 2" OMEs, but now... well, the off-center feel is not there, but the vibe is.

There's a long thread on DWeb discussing pinion corrected vs castor corrected radius arms. Eventually I may call Steve and replace with the pinion corrected arms. First is to shim the rear links and see if that helps since I know the rear pinion angle is "out" more than the front.

Just something else to consider/be prepared for...
 

stevenmd

Expedition Leader
As it sits right now I only have a slight vibration around 70 mph. It's not bad and is something I could probably live with if I knew it wouldn't eventually damage or cause premature wear and tear on other parts. I think running Steve's front arms set up for a 3" lift and a DC up front should take care of the vibration.

I have found every rover is different. Some need nothing when you add a 3 - 4" lift, while others need a lot of extra goodies just to run smooth with a 2" lift.

I got pretty lucky with this one.:victory:
 

stevenmd

Expedition Leader
Just added Keith's ( www.rovertracks.com ) HD tie rod, HD drag link, steering damper relocator kit, his HD axles (front and back), his HD cv's, his HD rear trailing arms... plus had an exhaust leak fixed (gaskets between manifolds and block), new y-pipe and cats, upgraded plug wires, coolant leak fixed...

Will post pics later.:lurk:
 

astateofmike

Observer
stevenmd said:
Will post pics later.:lurk:

Yes, later as he is :safari-rig: testing it in the driveway as we speak....Brooklyn is so lucky to get such a nice gift for her Bday, a freshly repaired chariot for her lifetime of adventures...
 

Green96D1

Explorer
stevenmd said:
Just added Keith's ( www.rovertracks.com ) HD tie rod, HD drag link, steering damper relocator kit, his HD axles (front and back), his HD cv's, his HD rear trailing arms... plus had an exhaust leak fixed (gaskets between manifolds and block), new y-pipe and cats, upgraded plug wires, coolant leak fixed...

Will post pics later.:lurk:

geez! wow

my little build up has nothing on this!:xxrotflma :ylsmoke: :punk03: :victory:

:jumping: :safari-rig:
 

stevenmd

Expedition Leader
Green96D1 said:
geez! wow

my little build up has nothing on this!:xxrotflma :ylsmoke: :punk03: :victory:

:jumping: :safari-rig:
lol... and I have an lt230 sitting here waiting to be installed...:ylsmoke:
 
Sounds like a very cool build, sorry for coming in late, I have been kind of busy.
I know what you mean about every Rover being different, my old disko was lifted 3" and was fine, the same suspension setup on my 90 is just nasty. Still trying to work that out.
When it comes time for some nicer wheels check out the ZU wheels, they look just like the MJ Lee wheels but they are alloy.
Tom Woods will have new drive shafts this year, far better than the current ones which are very good now.
Can't wait to see more pictures and the 109 build.
:clapsmile

Kevin "Dances with Trees" Willey
 

Andrew Walcker

Mod Emeritus
Hijack on.

Dances with trees said:
...Tom Woods will have new drive shafts this year, far better than the current ones which are very good now...

You can't leave us hanging, what's Tom got going on in the back room?

Hijack off.
 
Tom is eliminating the spacer plate on the current Land Rover shafts he has and using a better double cardon then the Spicer unit which can't be lubed at the locater pin. The ones he has tried that can be lubricated brake at the lube port so he has a fully lubricative design, that i think is in production now. I have to give him a ring back around the first of April, which would be tomorrow.
He was saying it is a bolt in replacement unit for the discovery 2 and it should work on all the other earlier ones as well.

Kevin
 

stevenmd

Expedition Leader
Good to know. I hope he is upgrading all of his line. Our local guy gets so many TW's in for repair from the local jeepers club.
 

KevinNY

Adventurer
The DC flange probably won't fit a Series transfer case though. The mating surface on the rear of a series case is smaller than a LT230, Tom turned down a flange adaptor for me to fit one of his DC rear shafts to my series coiler. An X-brake disc e-brake could be used to get around this I believe.
 

TeriAnn

Explorer
Golly, am I the only one with Great Basin propshafts fitted front & rear?

Front: high angle U joints, long slip joint, smaller diameter for additional clearance with the bell housing & under the bulkhead cross member.

Rear: Longer propshaft with longer slip joint. I moved my rear diff 1.5 inches closer to the rear of the body to centre the wheel in the wheel arch & slightly better departure angle.

The factory used very short slip joints on their Series propshafts and strange things can happen when you reach the ends of their travel. I once had a front pinion nut yanked off the pinion shaft, leaving its threads behind. When you have custom propshafts made I suggest that you make sure you have longer than stock slip joints and the proper length shaft for the flange to flange mounting distance. I used to assume that the slip joint will handle changes in length caused by slight lifts. Silly me.
 

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