LaOutbackTrail's trailer build

[LaOutbackTrail]

Hey guys,

I finally started on my trailer build. Honestly, I've taken most of my notes from Box Rocket's build.

Essentially, my neighbor had almost to the inch what I wanted to begin building the trailer. So I house and dog sat for them one weekend and he gave me the material. Then I set off cutting and welding.


So, I've got 12ft of 2.5"x 3/16 receiver tubing running the full length, I then cut notches in the 2"x 1/8" tubing for the perimeter of the frame. I got the notching idea from Box Rocket. The idea behind the 3/16 all the way through is in the event of a rear recovery, I have one solid recovery point. Not to mention the fact that I can easily carry accessories off the back too. You can see I added 4" out the back of the trailer. This will allow me to use any sort of hitch or hitch type accessory.


Frame taking shape. The frame is 48" wide to the outside measurements, and 64" long to the outside measurements. The walls will be 25" tall, I didn't want to waste any sheetmetal, so will cut the sheet metal in half for a 24" tall wall panel to fit under the top perimeter tubing. I was going for 18" but realized I'd need to make 2 cuts on the sheets and as I just mentioned, I don't like waste.



To give you an idea, our Jet Tent body bag in a mock position.


Started working on the uprights and upper perimeter tubing. I was actually having issues getting squared up. Thats what I get for completely welding the verticals...


I'll begin cutting the sheet metal tomorrow for the floor. I'm using 16g for the floor and 18g for the walls. Undecided about the lid. I started thinking aluminum, but the price tag gives me a headache. Then I started thinking about fiberglass... and quickly realized I've never had that large of a glass project, nor do I have the time to learn.... Then the thought of calculating the weight of the material. 20g steel for the lid would weigh 31lsb, 16g aluminum weighs 18lbs, and fiberglass would weigh about 5lbs, excluding the frame in all calculations.

Ideas and or suggestions for sealing, hinges and struts are appreciated.

Speaking of the lid, I'll be doing a similar lid to this:


I intend to carry 2 mountain bikes and 2 kids bikes on the lid. Plus, at some point I might put a RTT up there.

I ordered a 3500lb axle with proper Japanese truck bolt pattern. I'm still debating on the trailer spring setup I want to use. A pre-fabbed spring kit with hangers, or if I want to use leaf springs from some sort of Toyota. There are pros and cons to each. There will be shocks involved as well.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Have you addressed trailer offtracking in your design? Something I find invaluable if you plan to really off road your trailer.

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Never heard of that....

?

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[LaOutbackTrail]

Have you addressed trailer offtracking in your design? Something I find invaluable if you plan to really off road your trailer.

Are you referring to the length of the trailer/ distance between axles sort of thing? I'm going to make the the tongue and trailer as short as possible but long enough to clear the rear barn door plus fuel cans mounted on the tongue area.



I had a good helper yesterday.


And I started skinning the trailer.

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Anyone have any input on pintle and lunette hitching systems?

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[shmabs]

For the brief time that i had my last m416, it had a very well matched pintle and lunette hitch system. By well matched I mean that when latched together, they were very tight. It was noticably more quiet than any previous pintle and lunette systems i have had in the past, and seemed to work very well, with little noise and clunking heard, however, that experience was all pavement based.

Mike

Edit: what are your plans for flooring?

 

[1911]

I had a good helper yesterday.

K. looks like serious business!

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Yeah, I hear matching the pintle and lunette is the key, with proper weight management, grease, etc . My concern with going this route is less about the noise, but more about the multi-axis capabilities of a simple lunette/pintle. Going the simple, less expensive route means that the L/P do not rotate 360 degrees like the military trailers. Building a rotating lunette is not out of the question, but my concern is reliability and safety of rigging it up....



I'm not sure this setup would provide the articulation I'd need, or would it? It'd be at least similar to a traditional ball mount, right? But stronger/simpler and probably more vertical range than a ball mount. Honestly, I dont like off camber situations but could see the benefit to the vertical capabilities...


For flooring I'm doing 16 gauge steel.

 

[BADDANDY]

I would try and get one the folks on here to sell you their lunettes and mounts. Most builds on here don't use either if a lunette/pintle is what you want to use.

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

I don't know what I want. I'm building the trailer as i go.... actually.

But I want cost effective, reliable, and safe. I'd rather whatever solution I use to mount in or on the 2.5" receiver tubing of the trailer.

 

[Box Rocket]

The success of a non-rotating pintle will depend on the trails you plan to run. If it's mostly fire roads and getting to camp sites then a standard pintle/lunette will probably be fine. Little noisy but cheap functional and strong and pretty well dummy proof.

But from my experience, it is worth a little extra effort cost to have a multi-axis couple of some sort. I think the Max coupler is the ideal setup. I have had no problems with my Lock-n-Roll and it has worked really well. It has a drawback or two compared to the Max Coupler but I haven't been affected by them yet.

Bottom line is regardless of the type of coupler you end up with, you will be MUCH happier with a multi-axis type be it a pintle, max, lnr, or other type.

 

[klb67]

LAOutback - I have a new trailer with similar dimensions and can give you some feedback on materials. 6' long and 24" high, about 52" inside dimensions. Sides and tailgate are 16 gauge. Floor is 1/8". The lid is framed with 1x1 thinner walled tube (.100?) and sheeted in 20 gauge steel. My fabricator is a good welder and said the 20 gauge warped a fair bit when welded. It won't be completely smooth and flat. But I wanted to save weight and am not concerned with a few waves. I think I'd still do 20 gauge steel, or consider aluminum. I think the steel will be a bit more durable. I wanted the floor to be able to handle loading firewood, etc. without denting and would use the 1/8" again, but its heavy (about 130 lbs). I'd be interested to hear how you like the 16 gauge for the floor.

I just installed the struts and am quite happy with them. Not so happy with the brackets (or more accurately my decisions when installing them). I just installed some of the bolts to test them out in case I needed to move them, and just closing the lid a few times with only some of the bolts caused the brackets to bend a bit. I'll be replacing those with stronger brackets at some point. I am glad I used 3 barrel hinges on the front for the lid - much better than with just 2.

 

[SaltCreek]

I work for Great Lakes Forge, maker of the Lock N Roll. The only drawback with the Lock N Roll, that I'm aware of, was with the old style that would bind when backing up at odd angles. The new style has the 360 degree rotational point on the vehicle side, eliminating the problem. The new style also has a thicker bearing with a grease fitting. If you have any other feedback I'll relay it to the right person. We're always looking for ways to improve our hitches. Thank God for the open market.

 

[Rubiconcruiser21]

An assortment of hitch types is acceptable, the ball and coupler for ON road travel, the pointless for heavier rock crawling and the max coupler for flatland travel. A bit costly but well worth the effort to carry.

 

[Box Rocket]

I work for Great Lakes Forge, maker of the Lock N Roll. The only drawback with the Lock N Roll, that I'm aware of, was with the old style that would bind when backing up at odd angles. The new style has the 360 degree rotational point on the vehicle side, eliminating the problem. The new style also has a thicker bearing with a grease fitting. If you have any other feedback I'll relay it to the right person. We're always looking for ways to improve our hitches. Thank God for the open market.

Thanks for the response. The issue you desicribed is the only one I am aware of, and that's only from others feedback. I have never personally had an issue with my Lock-n-Roll and have been very happy with it. Thanks for chiming in and noting the changes you have made to address the minor issues with an already great product.

Back to the build, and as for 16ga. for the floor. That's what i used on mine and it's held up well even with tossing a load of wood in it and other heavy things from time to time. No dents to speak of. 1/8" would be more durable I'm sure, but the 16ga on mine has worked fine and is a good bit lighter if weight is a concern. I think the denting can be prevented with good bracing under the floor.