Goal Zero Yeti 400 Experiences?

[Longtallsally]

So I just got one of the Yeti 400 units for all the reasons you might think (good deal at Costco too at $350).

Anyway, we also got a Renogy 100w solar suitcase. I'd like to use that solar panel to charge the Yeti, but am unsure of how to get a connector to do it. I'm no double E, but not a total dunce on this stuff either, so any ideas?

I thought I read I could do it via the Anderson port and the solar suitcase has a charge controller that I can configure to not over charge, so will that work? If so, is the Anderson connector standard such that I could solder cables to make a harness?

 

[Tonopah]

would this help?

http://www.goalzero.com/p/261/mc4-solar-to-8mm-adapter-cable

 

[Dannn]

The anderson ports go directly to the battery (meaning no overcharge or discharge protection) in the yeti so you would need to use a charge controller in line with the solar panel.

If the renogy panel has a charge controller then you just need to make a harness that goes from the output of the charge controller to the anderson connector. The connector is a PP15, PP30 or PP45. The plastic housing is the same size, the only difference between the three are that they accommodate different gauge wires.

So I just got one of the Yeti 400 units for all the reasons you might think (good deal at Costco too at $350).

Anyway, we also got a Renogy 100w solar suitcase. I'd like to use that solar panel to charge the Yeti, but am unsure of how to get a connector to do it. I'm no double E, but not a total dunce on this stuff either, so any ideas?

I thought I read I could do it via the Anderson port and the solar suitcase has a charge controller that I can configure to not over charge, so will that work? If so, is the Anderson connector standard such that I could solder cables to make a harness?

 

[Longtallsally]

Thanks, guys. So it sounds like I can do it via the Anderson port and since the solar panel has a programmable charge controller, I should be fine.

I found this on the GZ site: http://www.goalzero.com/p/187/6mm-male-to-alligator-clamp

This would work for the "normal" input, but can't tell if it's going to the input.

This is the one I'd really like, but it's for the 1250 and I didn't see one for the 400:

http://www.goalzero.com/p/196/goal-zero-yeti-1250-ring-terminal-connector-cable

 

[Dannn]

that 6mm to alligator harness wont work for your purpose. the 6mm ports are for 12v power out on the yeti. the "normal" input is 8mm. this is the closest thing that could be modified for the "normal" input: http://www.goalzero.com/p/261/mc4-solar-to-8mm-adapter-cable

You would need to get loose connectors and solder/crimp your own. like these: http://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Powerpole-Connectors-Pair-Genuine/dp/B005P9CATU/

I couldn't find a pre soldered/crimped anderson connector with a pigtail so making your own is probably the way to go.


you may be able to get this cable and cut it in the middle: http://www.goalzero.com/p/26/anderson-chaining-cable
but I think it would be cleaner if you just started from scratch and made it yourself

Thanks, guys. So it sounds like I can do it via the Anderson port and since the solar panel has a programmable charge controller, I should be fine.

I found this on the GZ site: http://www.goalzero.com/p/187/6mm-male-to-alligator-clamp

This would work for the "normal" input, but can't tell if it's going to the input.

This is the one I'd really like, but it's for the 1250 and I didn't see one for the 400:

http://www.goalzero.com/p/196/goal-zero-yeti-1250-ring-terminal-connector-cable

 

[Longtallsally]

Thanks! I must be looking in the right places as I found those exact same solutions.

So the Renogy panel has both the clamping type connectors as well as just bare wires for the sole purpose I think of doing what I want to do. I hope it helps some folks, so I'll snap a couple pics and post them to give some more ideas of the versatility that's out there.

 

[Longtallsally]

So here are a couple pics of what I have:

The panel packs up nice and easy and the controller is built right on the setup. I really like this setup as I think the panels (which are mono crystalline) and I can use it in the Jeep by itself, use it with the camper to keep the battery topped off, and then take care of all my AC charging needs.

I'll get the Anderson plug and fab up a harness and update if anyone wants.

 

[snowblind]

I'll get the Anderson plug and fab up a harness and update if anyone wants.

I would NOT use the Anderson Chaining Port for charging unless you get DEFINITIVE communication from a Goal Zero engineer saying it is "OK". It may be OK but that is definitely NOT how it was designed to be used. The Yetis have a lot of software, internal fans, displays, etc. and it would really suck to fry any of that by accident.

The Yeti 1250 is designed to take a charge via 8mm AND/OR the Anderson Charging Port on the front of the Yeti1250. The Yeti 400 has no Anderson Charging Port and must use the single 8mm Goal Zero propriety connector on the front of the unit. To connect PRETTY MUCH ANY charge source to the Yeti400 you need an "XX to 8mmGZ adapter"

There are some photos and examples a few pages back at http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/112822-Goal-Zero-Yeti-400-Experiences/page7

Since your Renogy panel includes a charge controller it terminates in bare wire rather than the standard MC4 connectors that the new panels use. You could just crimp on some Renogy MC4 Connectors and then use this 8mmGZ to Renolgy MC4 cable.

In this instance getting a panel with a charge controller is working against you. The Yeti has the controller inside already so at the very least it is redundant. Hopefully there are no charging issues using a charge controller... to charge a battery... through a charge controller that is actually charging that battery.


Matt

 

[Longtallsally]

Thanks, Matt! This was really the response I was looking for.

Bottom line, I completely agree with you. If I were to charge via the Anderson port, it seems I would be relying on the charge controller in the solar panel not to mess up the battery. But, I also agree that it is a rather redundant deal to plug that into the main input of the yeti- albeit safer from a warranty perspective.

I found the GZ connector you reference above, but didn't find the crimp on Renogy ones. So although I think it will work to do it via the Anderson port, I'm going to route you described to protect the investment. Also, I've not completed the setup, and frankly yours is easier in many ways.

The Renogy panel is mainly to keep the camper battery topped off on trips, but I do want to be able to charge the Yeti in the field as well and plugging into the tow vehicle is not very efficient it seems.

Thanks again.

 

[Dannn]

The anderson ports on the Yeti 400 are a direct connection to the battery through a fuse, there is one fuse for each port. I think it was a 30A, can't recall from the last time I opened it up for some exploratory surgery (I'm in the process of modding my yeti 400 with extra ports and such). The anderson ports do not go through the controlling circuitry in the Yeti.
This means two things: 1. you won't get any of the features of the electronics such as the over discharge protection and watts in/out when using this port. 2. you are getting direct access to the battery in parallel to the rest of the system.
However, you will be able to use the built in battery level indicator.

Just treat the anderson ports as if you are connecting directly to the battery and it will be fine. As long as you trust the external charge controller you will be okay. The only thing to watch out for is not to use the stock 8mm input while you are charging with the external charge controller, that is don't charge from the internal controller and the external controller at the same time.

You are rught that it would make no sense to make an adapter that went from the renogy charge controller to the 8mm port. Solar panel->charge controller->charge controller->battery. It will be redundant and I doubt the external charge controller will be able to read the battery voltage through the internal charge controller. Not to mention you will lose energy through extra connections and voltage regulation of two charge controllers.

I would NOT use the Anderson Chaining Port for charging unless you get DEFINITIVE communication from a Goal Zero engineer saying it is "OK". It may be OK but that is definitely NOT how it was designed to be used. The Yetis have a lot of software, internal fans, displays, etc. and it would really suck to fry any of that by accident.

The Yeti 1250 is designed to take a charge via 8mm AND/OR the Anderson Charging Port on the front of the Yeti1250. The Yeti 400 has no Anderson Charging Port and must use the single 8mm Goal Zero propriety connector on the front of the unit. To connect PRETTY MUCH ANY charge source to the Yeti400 you need an "XX to 8mmGZ adapter"

There are some photos and examples a few pages back at http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/112822-Goal-Zero-Yeti-400-Experiences/page7

Since your Renogy panel includes a charge controller it terminates in bare wire rather than the standard MC4 connectors that the new panels use. You could just crimp on some Renogy MC4 Connectors and then use this 8mmGZ to Renolgy MC4 cable.

In this instance getting a panel with a charge controller is working against you. The Yeti has the controller inside already so at the very least it is redundant. Hopefully there are no charging issues using a charge controller... to charge a battery... through a charge controller that is actually charging that battery.


Matt

Thanks, Matt! This was really the response I was looking for.

Bottom line, I completely agree with you. If I were to charge via the Anderson port, it seems I would be relying on the charge controller in the solar panel not to mess up the battery. But, I also agree that it is a rather redundant deal to plug that into the main input of the yeti- albeit safer from a warranty perspective.

I found the GZ connector you reference above, but didn't find the crimp on Renogy ones. So although I think it will work to do it via the Anderson port, I'm going to route you described to protect the investment. Also, I've not completed the setup, and frankly yours is easier in many ways.

The Renogy panel is mainly to keep the camper battery topped off on trips, but I do want to be able to charge the Yeti in the field as well and plugging into the tow vehicle is not very efficient it seems.

Thanks again.

 

[Longtallsally]

Looks like it's time to call GZ and get some advice. I just have a hard time believing they wouldn't account for a different type of solar panel- which I guess they don't, but they also don't assume you are brining your own charge controller to the party.

 

[Longtallsally]

Ok so I just got off the phone with Goal Zero. They are very nice folks and just had the exact same question I posed.

As I have a charge controller on the solar panel, I MUST go the Anderson port way. As Dannn mentioned, I'd get into a dueling charge controller battle and nothing would happen.

If the solar panel had no charge controller- or I didn't use the one on there- then I would need to go through the "regular" input on the Yeti to keep from overcharging.

I hope that helps someone out definitively. Now what would be fun would be to make both types of harnesses and determine which charges more efficiently- or basically determine which charge controller is best.

 

[Dannn]

Thanks for the update! the GZ people are pretty good about talking tech/shop with their customers.

Having no charge controller between a battery and a solar panel provides two problems: 1. no regulation of the voltage. meaning the panel will continuously supply whatever voltage to the battery regardless of state of charge. 2. potential damage to the panel if you get voltage from the battery to the solar panel. charge controllers will have a way to isolate and prevent power from going to the panel, usually with a diode.

Another thing to note is that the anderson ports don't provide any over discharge protection. If you want to power stuff through the anderson port you can probably set up a charge controller to do the cut out for you. Most charge controllers will have an output that is protected but is current limited. There are ways around it by using a relay and still getting the protection you need. At the point you'd be limited by the maximum discharge rate of the battery you are using. If you need a diagram for this then I can quickly draw up a schematic.

Ok so I just got off the phone with Goal Zero. They are very nice folks and just had the exact same question I posed.

As I have a charge controller on the solar panel, I MUST go the Anderson port way. As Dannn mentioned, I'd get into a dueling charge controller battle and nothing would happen.

If the solar panel had no charge controller- or I didn't use the one on there- then I would need to go through the "regular" input on the Yeti to keep from overcharging.

I hope that helps someone out definitively. Now what would be fun would be to make both types of harnesses and determine which charges more efficiently- or basically determine which charge controller is best.

 

[Longtallsally]

Now for my purposes, I wouldn't need a diode or relay setup would I? In other words, since I'm not POWERING anything from the Anderson port, and the charge controller on the panel serves the purpose you describe of keeping it from CHARGING too much.

However, you caught my interest in looking at the Yeti powering back to the panel with no protection. It seems though that would make such a situation possible at no matter what battery you hooked the panel up to? Or am I missing this?

 

[Dannn]

The charge controller you have will already do the protection for you. Part of the charger is to make sure power is flowing from the input to the battery only and not the other way around.

It's similar to how people with dual battery set ups in their vehicles make it so that one of the batteries is isolated in one direction in order to prevent it from draining the other.


From your pictures I see that there is a set of load/output terminals on the charge controller. You're probably not going to use these so you won't need to worry about any of the stuff I mentioned. I just thought it would be useful to mention that using the anderson ports to power something would require some precautions.

So in short, no you do not need to worry about any diodes or relay if you are using a charge controller and not powering anything directly from the battery.

Now for my purposes, I wouldn't need a diode or relay setup would I? In other words, since I'm not POWERING anything from the Anderson port, and the charge controller on the panel serves the purpose you describe of keeping it from CHARGING too much.

However, you caught my interest in looking at the Yeti powering back to the panel with no protection. It seems though that would make such a situation possible at no matter what battery you hooked the panel up to? Or am I missing this?