Rookies on the Rubicon

jeremyk

Adventurer
trailhead Loon overflow.jpg
Loon Lake trailhead and amazing overflow sluice (the trail starts beyond the shack)


As the day grew closer, I continued my internet research and Erik sent me YouTube clips. I could tell that he was having some second thoughts; some of the video was rather daunting. People breaking things, people rolling over and doing major vehicle damage, people getting hopelessly stuck. What were we thinking? Did we really have any business doing this sort of thing? Or would we be like hikers on Everest wearing tennis shoes, looking really foolish while begging for a piggyback ride to safety?

One thing that I did notice in the videos was that nobody was driving an FJ. They were all Jeeps, mostly modified Rubicon's, or buggies, but no FJ's. Well there was one where a guy in an FJ, trying to clear a nasty rock shelf and ripping his entire rear bumper off in the process. I tried to ignore that one, it almost looked deliberate. Finally I found a blog called Last Great Road Trip that told a story of a group of FJ's that successfully went through during the 2013 Rubithon event, sort of a Jamboree for Toyotas. Unfortunately they were all highly-modified with long-travel kits and 35‘s with re-gearing; guided by some guy named “Woodie” who apparently knows all of the rocks on the trail by name. Only one of them escaped without body damage.

Body damage is another topic that I have thought about quite a bit. My rig is pretty nice, it's the nicest vehicle I've ever owned - it's a 2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser Trail Teams limited edition. And I really like it. But, I have always bragged that it was a trail queen, not a garage queen, so for something like the Rubicon, I was “willing to accept some body damage”. It would be a “Merit Badge” of sorts. Something that held the memory of a struggle and an achievement, kind of an off-road conversation piece. But now I didn't really think that I wanted body damage. It might be hard to control. After all, it would be the result of an error or an accident; you couldn't really choose where it would be or how large it would be. My boasts were haunting me.

One of the things that I read in Last Great Road Trip was that people were using tube doors. These helped with visibility. Being able to lean out and see where your tire was placed seemed to me to be very beneficial, not to mention that it also replaced about six square feet of nice-shiny-white-sheet-metal on each side of the rig. At least I could choose to not have my body damage there! So I picked up some used tube doors and Josh, my oldest son, and copilot on this trip, helped me install them.

FJ @ trailhead.jpg
My tube doors

Final plans and preparation for the trip came together quickly. I had to swap out a front half-shaft because I had torn the CV boot driving up on Fiftymile Bench road in Utah, on my roundabout wander to the Expo last May. In doing so I discovered that NAPA replacement shaft CV's lock-up with the suspension at full travel, so I had to buy a rebuilt shaft and replace it again the day before we left. “Good Practice” I told myself, I might need to do a swap on the trail. (I carry a spare shaft and the 35mm socket required to replace it, along with a spare tie rod)

Josh and I were going to leave on Wednesday after work, drive as long as we could, hopefully making it as far as Eugene before we had to stop. We would sleep at a rest area in the roof top tent, then get up as early as possible so that we could make time and get to the Loon Lake trailhead by 4:30 on Thursday. There, we would meet Erik and his son Caleb, who would be coming from a family camping trip near Tahoe. This would allow us to start the trail out of “phase” with the crowds and camp for the first night just before the Little Sluice Box; which we were going to bypass. This was part of our “stress reduction plan”.

By Tuesday night, we were packed. I had the Maggiolina up on top, the kitchen box packed in the back with my nice Worthington aluminum propane cylinder in its bracket on the roof. Two Snow Peak tables (one big, one small), some nice REI reclining chairs and an awning. The Fridge was packed with beer and tri-tip; which required that I bring the Snow Peak folding fireplace for proper grilling and campfire stories. It had been many years since Erik and I had shared a campfire - one of our favorite things to do.

Of course there were tools and spares, compressors, extension lines and Hi-lifts. Recovery gear and cameras and Go-Pro's, and and and. It really added up. I think fear is a major driver when it comes to my packing habits: “I might need and axe or a crow bar or a single jack”, “It might rain”, “I think that I need a pair of boots too”, “what about the grill?”. My inner voice of potential regret at not having “just the right thing” drives me to pack like a gypsy. (no offense intended, I just don't need to be that self-sufficient for an extended weekend). But pack like a hoarder I do. All the while, my rig gets closer and closer and closer to the ground.

During the first night of driving we discovered some of the limitations of tube doors on long trips. Your brain's subliminal subroutine to reach for the button and roll up the window kicks in several hundred times before you teach it that that can't be done any longer. Fortunately I brought along earmuffs to deal with the howl of the KM-2's and Josh took my advice to pack a warmer jacket. And a rain jacket. Because it rained - and we got wet. Passing big rigs was especially drenching.

After a fatiguing journey, at 4:15 on Thursday afternoon, we arrived at the Loon Lake trailhead for the Rubicon - and I didn't like what I saw. A bunch of beat-looking rigs, jacked to the sky with a bunch of rough-looking characters who looked at me like I was on a Sunday drive in the family wagonmaster, gonna show the kids where the Rub-E-con Trail was and then head back to McDonalds for dinner. GULP!

We found Erik and Caleb down by the trailhead shack, both shaking their heads with that deer-in-the-headlights look. I could tell that they were having a serious talk. It turns out that they had just been hassled by a buggy driver who told Erik that he “sure have pretty wheels”.

JK @ trailhead.jpg
Erik's "pretty wheels"

I was floored by how tricked-out his rig looked - holy crap! I was in big trouble! What was I thinking, his tires were huge, this was serious business, I was going to destroy my rig and Jennifer (my wife) was going to kill me. Or a least say that she had previously informed me that I was an idiot (that's the true meaning of "I told you so").

So, to cover up my anxiety, I opened the fridge and we had a beer. Once that took effect, I said that there was no way "I was going to drive a thousand miles and leave without body damage!".

side by side.jpg
The reason for my feelings of vehicular inadequacy
 
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Danimal

Adventurer
This is a lot of fun, and a situation we all end up in at some level or another. Loving this report, thanks.

Dan
 

jeremyk

Adventurer
Thanks all for the positive feedback! I'll try to post the first trail day tonight - just got the pictures figured out.
 

jeremyk

Adventurer
Rookies on the Rubicon - Part Three

The beer is done. The greetings are over. It's been a while since I've seen Erik, my younger brother by seven years, but it's time to drive trail. When I lived in the Bay Area, we used to do quite a bit together; mainly backpacking and fly fishing in the Sierras. Then in 1994, I moved with my family for a job (lousy reason to move) to Bellingham, Washington (good place to live). Erik and I met at Mount Shasta a few times, until we finally succeeded in climbing it and then things kind of petered out. He has his family, I have mine - we had to “get on with it”.

In 2009 I bought a used FJ Trail Teams (out of nostalgia for an FJ-40 our father owned) from a really cool guy in Pittsburg, PA. I took a Jet Blue red-eye out of Seattle (so that I could sleep on the plane and save on a hotel) and William picked me up at the airport and drove me to his dealership. A few hours later the paperwork was done and I was headed west, in the dead of January 2009, with my new prize. That trip was an adventure in itself.

Later Erik purchased his Jeep JK - “this was going to be our reconnect” I told myself. Fast-forward to August and here we are: Rubicon Reconnect. Rookies on the Rubicon -time to drive.

I was glad to leave the mockers behind, people who expressed no faith in our success, we had to believe. We were going to spend two half-days and two full-days on the trail. Our objective today was to get near the Little Sluice and then camp. This would put us ahead of the morning crush and in a better frame of mind to push on to Buck Island Lake the next day.

The Cast:
Erik.jpg
Erik my brother. Owner of the Jeep JK

Caleb.jpg
Caleb his son. Our staff photographer who took most of the awesome pictures for this post.

Josh.jpg
Josh my oldest son. Our trail guide. He called trail like a pro and kept us from disaster, against our will.

The Gatekeeper was our first obstacle. By all accounts, it was very de-clawed from its former self. We still found it to be rather troubling. We paced and postulated, but in the end, we had to drive, daylight was burning, and it all came out fine.

gatekeeper overview.jpg
Overview of the Gatekeeper

Gatekeeper 1 FJ.jpg
The FJ does just fine

Gatekeeper.jpg
The trail after the Gatekeeper is purty too!

JK Gatekeeper.jpg
"So... can you keep me off of that rock?"

After the Gatekeeper we enjoyed the vistas of Granite Bowl. What a beautiful place, kind of a western Moab, with granite slickrock. We met a family camping near the top, they had the best campsite on the trail. (note to self).

Granite bowl FJ.jpg

From there we encountered a series of difficult uphills that I believe are called Walker Hill. They create self-doubt but if you watch your line, they pose only increases in adrenaline level and a boost in your confidence.

Walker Hill.jpg


We nearly drove to the Little Sluice, but there were campers there, so we found a nice place to set up and spend the night. After dinner and a couple of beers, we walked to the Sluice and confirmed that we were not going to run it. Little did we know - it would not be the toughest trail that we would meet. It is the toughest optional trail...

First Camp.jpg
 
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jeremyk

Adventurer
August in the Sierras is a beautiful time. I woke early, made coffee and walked some trail before the others got up. I was trying to embed in my mind what was next. That nagging sour-ache of dread was firmly attached to my gut now; I would have to learn to ignore it or risk missing out on the joy of the adventure and the beauty of the place. If I wasn't successful, I would just focus on its difficulties and not on its opportunities. I knew that Erik was dealing with it also, he had asked for an antacid the night before, fortunately I had some, stashed in my backpack for use at work.

We had performed well through the Gatekeeper, cruised Granite Bowl and had had no surprises going up Walker Hill. Our confidence was growing. But my rig was riding low, as the scrapes and bangs of the previous day confirmed. I decided to put some air back in my tires to get back some ground clearance. I was thankful that I had invested in a diff-skid before my Utah trip. I knew that I was well protected underneath, with 3/16” Bud Built steel from nose to tail and DoM sliders, I was able to endure the noise, knowing that it was not damaging my vehicle.

Skids.jpg
I may not be heavily modded, but I am heavily armored...

Walking through the Little Sluice (LS) and its surroundings, I could see that the trail was painted with “car blood”. It spoke of people getting stuck, with major problems, who now had to find their way home. That made my stomach grind worse. Secretly, I feared what would happen to me, a thousand miles from my home; if I caused my car to “bleed” like that.

Underway, we made it over a shelf and through a nasty pinch rock that offered to modify our sheet metal, if we would let it. There was a narrow drop and some rather tippy sections before the LS.

pinch 1.jpg
It gets pretty pinchy in this spot

JK handles it just fine.jpg
JK Handles it just fine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uh1pkaLF7oM
A fun YouTube vid doing the tripod

Then up on to the granite slabs, we did the bypass.

Slabs.jpg


Sluice by-pass jk-1.jpg
Erik taking a particularly nasty drop-off to rejoin the main trail


Once that section was finished, we parked at the bottom of the hill and walked back up to see if the LS was going to have any takers on this bright morning.

View attachment 183429
Erik and Caleb - waiting for action

Most people followed in our tracks without taking a second look, but after an hour or so one group decided to go for it. They all made it through with no real issues, a few nagging steering complaints when they were done, but nothing major. We still decided to leave that problem for our next time around. It was fun to watch.


LS customers.jpg
First customers in the Little Sluice


We moved on. Our plan was to make it to Buck Island Lake and make camp for the night. The general plan was to make this the long day to Buck Island, cruise into Rubicon Springs the next day for a leisurely day on Saturday and then hit it early on Sunday with Cadillac Hill and out as our only objective.

View attachment 183430
Top of Indian Trail


We met a Trail Steward right above the Indian Trail/Old Sluice junction and he must have seen we were Indian Trail material. It wasn’t without a nice set of off-camber challenges.

JK Caleb above IT.jpg
The trail was becoming relentless. Caleb, taking a break.

Grand Cherokee twist.jpg
The guys in front of us getting a little "haired" out


FJ twist.jpg
FJ does ok

To be continued: Around Buck Island Lake to Martini Tree.
 

jeremyk

Adventurer
Hey, thanks very much! I am pleased that you are enjoying it.

I know that I'm a bit wordy, but I am archiving the adventure for my brother and our sons.

I think that I will have four more posts on this journey; although we do run in to some crazy midnight buggy drivers handing out tequila shots in the next "episode". It might take a while to adequately capture that experience... What a hoot!
 

82fb

Adventurer
Nice writeup. Reminds me of the first time I did the Rubicon. 82 Toyota longbed, open diffs, bald 33's and a 3 inch lift. Much more fun in a built rig.
 

Ace Brown

Retired Ol’ Fart
Hey Jeremy, just found your trip report here and your not only a great cook but great at story telling too. Really enjoying the humor and apprehension yet pushing on regardless. Primed for the rest of the story. Please don't spare the details as I hope to run the Ruby some day and this stands out as an honest, no BS report.

Ace


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
 

jscusmcvet

Explorer
Great write up and pictures also.... Looking forward to the rest.

Personally, I like your build. My last jeep was 1) lower than most and 2) armored front to back... so like you said when I hear "BANG!" I know it is safe and can scrape along. I have followed many many more "built rigs" over the years using this strategy. When all else failed, simply winch out across the rocks, scraping and banging away, but safe and ready for what is next. Eager to read the rest!

John
 

jeremyk

Adventurer
Nice writeup. Reminds me of the first time I did the Rubicon. 82 Toyota longbed, open diffs, bald 33's and a 3 inch lift. Much more fun in a built rig.

True, but after watching the buggy drivers roll over just about anything without a blink, I think that it's the smaller rigs that put some sport into it...
 

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