Rescue Runner build

the kid

Juke Box Hero
ok so i have a build over on T4R, that im gonna link here. im not gonna start from the begining as i have done that now on tree differnet forums, and honsetly im kinda sick of rewriting it, but i will cover the mods i have done to it here up to this point so i can give you all a base as to where its at, and whats been done to it....

so its a 97 SR5, 3.4, with an auto trans, i bought it at just over 200k mi, and it was the second owner whom i bought it from, he had only had it about a year, and decided he needed something bigger(full size truck), so i picked it up. paid like $5000 or $5500 i cant remember but it was a good deal -i just didnt know how good of a deal till later on... we bought it for our growing family, had a 85 4x4 pickup and a yaris, the wife drove the yaris and i had the truck, well that was all good and dandy with one kid, but with the other on the way we needed something bigger with more room... the origonal owner was a sales person from a local dealer and lived about 60miles away from work(mostly fwy 90/10) so i knew the truck had good service from the dealer most of its life. -my father inlaw is also a toyota master tech for a dealer and been working for that dealer for almost 30 years and been working on cars for closer to 40. so when issues come up that i cant take care of i ask for his help to get it done.

when i got it, it was basically stock. i had a brush guard on it, with some cheep pilot KC knock offs, and Tacoma 17" wheels and stock 265 tires. it got around fairly good with those, but i knew i wanted more. i have a friend who owns a couple of body shops, so i put a bug in his ear about wanting some Tundra 17" rims, soon enough one came in that was totalled and i swapped rims the night before it left for auction for my Tacoma 17s, they had Nitto Terra Grapplers on them too. i soon got a set of 285 70 17 Bighorns and put on it(still stock) and they cleared except for at full lock and stuff, then i had some rubbing. but i figured the only time im gonna see full lock and stuff is slow speeds so i didnt worry about it. also did the tundra brake upgrade with 231s. i bought some BudBuilt skids, LilSkip tank skid and some sliders for it. i drove it that way for almost a year then lifted it, got a snorkel for $100 some time in there, then it was time for a lift. first i ran the TRD Tundra coils up front -got them brand new at cost, and Tundra 5100 bilsteins, with a FZJ80 8wrap coil in the back and a 5125 in the rear. liked that for a while, but when i dumped the brush guard for the Tacoma ARB bumper and a Warn xd9000ce i had some nose dive, i was only sitting on like 1" of lift up front and 4 in back, so off to ToyTec to buy a set of the Eibach 3" coils, i should have done that from day one, such a better ride, it was less harsh and much more travel.

other things i have done along the way are an Alpine deck, Alpine type S speakers, JL audio amp, and JL audio 10" sub. i have a yellow top optima, dual stand alone tranny cooler, one has a 10" electric fan on a thermo switch(ground over ride to shut off for water crossings), trans temp guage, Safari LTD ps rack, poly bushings in the front end(LCA, sway bar -custom made hemi joint endlinks, and ps rack), 2nd gen 4runner rear endlinks, had an ARB rear air locker, but grenaded that -ARB kindly rebuilt it for free and returned it, its gonna go in the front of my 85 pickup -per ARBs advice lol, so im gonna be getting two ARBs for the runner some time in the next year or two(have spare diffs both F&R), just put in a new rear driveline, just rebuild the starter, had trans flushed less than 10K ago with Toyota synthetic, ne rad in the last year, LBJs get replaced every year with OE units, on board air thanks to an ARB compressor -gonna upgrade to the dual when i get both lockers. i built my own roof rack(2 of them actually), and gonna build another for a RTT. plenty of PIAA and IPF lights, strobes, a Ford F350 horn, im sure there is more...

feel free to ask about things i have or have not done or mentioned...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/105400-rescue-runner-build-thread.html

as it sits now;
-front - ToyTec 3" coils on Tundra 5100s up front (3")
-rear - LC80 8wraps w/5125s (4")
-Sequoia 17" rims with 285 70 17 Nitto Terra Grapplers (E rated)
-Poly bushings in the front end
-Safari LTD steering rack
-BudBuilts -full
-LilSkip tank skid
-Snorkel
-dual trans coolers w/temp gauge
-ARB Tacoma Bumper
-Warn xd9000ce with safety hook
-PIAA 70 lights x6
-IPF 900MSR w/PIAA ion bulbs
-PIAA 40 series backup/work lights x4
-on-borad air
-custom roof rack(some of the lights are on this)
-Alpine/JL audio sound


IMG_4544 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_4526 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_4384 by isaacyocum, on Flickr
 

soonenough

Explorer
Awesome-looking 4Runner. Really cool shots on that bridge.

What hook setup are you using? Looks like it's attached to the thimble on the winch line.
 

the kid

Juke Box Hero
Awesome-looking 4Runner. Really cool shots on that bridge.

What hook setup are you using? Looks like it's attached to the thimble on the winch line.
its a safety hook, not sure of the manufacture, the harder you pull the more it clamps down on itself. it was in a shop I used to work at just laying around, no one had a use for it and so I snagged it. It's attached to the stock steel warn line via a warn two piece clamp... Not sure the technical name, maybe someone from @Warn can chime in with more details -i know its the same clamp they use for the military setups... The yellow safety hook has a roll-pin that prevent it from coming apart, so that two piece clamp was the easiest way around that.
 

the kid

Juke Box Hero
@soonenough -ok so i just got out of a meeting and took a closer look at things, i was in a meeting when i first replied to the inquiry. the hook is made by a company called Gummbo the closest thing i can come up with on their website is this -http://www.gunneboindustries.com/en/Lifting/Products/Lifting-Components---GrabiQ/Hooks/Swivel-safety-hook-BKL-GrabiQ/ , its not the exsact same part number, but its close, that is the BKL-10-10, and i have the BKL-10-8... im not sure what the rating on this thing is, but its massive, and i am sure the winch cable or the winch itself would be the weak point in the set up. i am meticulous about my winch cable, after every use, i unwind it, clean it, and neatly and tightly re-spool it, inspecting it along the way. i choose to use the steel line over synthetic for a couple of reason, one i dont have to be as careful with it -meaning i can let it drop in the mud or dirt without fear of damage, i can let it get roadspray on it or be in direct sunlight with no affects like would be seen on synthetic line, and two i think it will last longer, there are no fibers to break down over time... yeah i have heard people say that the steel line is more dangerous, eh i dont buy that, i have seen synthetic line snap and do some serious damage(broke a guys thumb who was standing next to the vehicle doing the pull -he was the operator of the winch), sure if it was a steel line, it might have taken his hand off, but still if it was steel i dont think it would have broken -a lot of people get the idea they dont need to take care of their synthetic line, that it will just take what ever they throw at it... let it drop in the mud, lay it down in the dirt and dust, let it get roadspray and road salts all over it, let the sun beat down on it, or the one i like the best(all the others are a given "no go") is just spool it how ever, and leave it, its synthetic it wont matter... yeah ok *end tyrant on winch line*. the coupling is made by a company called hammerlok, its a 1/2" G80, i have seen both 12,000lb ratings and 15,000lb ratings. i was told by a Warn employee who gave this to me(a big thank you to Warn for not only rebuilding my winch, but also custom building it at that for no cost to me -just on reason while i will never buy anything but a Warn for a winch ever!) that it was rated at 18,000lbs but i have looked and that appears to be for the 5/8" coupler. but still at 12K(working load, and they all are tested to at least double that) i know i can put the 18,000 on it if i had to with a snatch block.

i have only used this winch twice, once for pulling over two trees in my back yard -they were in the way of the remodel/add-on i was doing. and the other time was for pulling two of the sheriffs patrol SUVs out of the snow -long story its in my build thread on T4R.org -ill post up the pics, just cause i like pics, not sure if you guys do, but i like pics and im a very visual person.

this pic i first got sent to me...

craig stuck by isaacyocum, on Flickr
the rest i took..., i thought i had the whole thing in film, i have a dashcam that records while im driving, apparently i didnt set it up correctly so it did not record the recovery...(had only had for like a week or so at this time), so none are good action shots...

IMG_1956 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_1957 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_1958 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_1959 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_1960 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_1960-2 by isaacyocum, on Flickr
again i would of had more, but i didnt feel like sticking my dslr in their face would look so good on my part...


*** ok i got an email back in less than an hour after 2100hrs amazing. anyhow this is the link the guy sent me for the closest hook they now make(they no longer make the hook i have). http://www.gunnebojohnson.com/gunne...ng-hooks/swivel-with-bronze-bushing-eye-type/ its the 8,800lb hook, but that rating is at 90* what ever that means... ???
 
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the kid

Juke Box Hero
small update, i had to replace my horns once again -funny how horns and water dont mix... oh well, anyhow picked up another set of F-350 horns for the runner tonight. installing them i redid the plugs and exposed wiring. im in the process of converting all electronic plugs to weather sealed plugs, using the GM weather sealed style plugs. its been a long and slow process but a satisfying one. its nice to know that more and more of my plug-ins are becoming weather sealed. i decided to do this after having a few relays and lighting systems short out after getting water in them and it was always annoying fighting the fuse war, and not knowing if my lights are gonna come on this time or not.
i also used some tape foam to put around the license plate to keep vibrations down when i turn up the sub -its probably the one thing i hate most about car stereo systems, guys will dump tons of money into their sound system and yet not bother to dampen or eliminate vibrations, i could not stand the though of being like them. -the next step in that is to dynomat ect the entire inside of the truck, roof, doors, gate, firewall, and tub...
 

the kid

Juke Box Hero
Consider using Deutsch DT or DTM connectors. They are more reliable, easier to service, and seal better than weatherpacks.
do you mean these? http://www.deutschconnector.com/ those are nice, but at $10 a light/connector that would be out of my budget, considering i have 10 lights on my rig(including the ones on the rack), and thats before i get into the strobes or horns or anything else that is electrical on the truck that already isnt in a sealed plug... i mean heck the weatherpacks arent the cheapest but they do the job and i havent found them to be too bad considering what im getting them for. i do like the looks of those Deutsch ones though.
im only using the weatherpacks cause ran across them by accident and i can get them in bulk for fairly cheap... and im a uniform nazi, so sense i already started with weatherpacks...
 
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Garrett@Oscaro

New member
do you mean these? http://www.deutschconnector.com/ those are nice, but at $10 a light/connector that would be out of my budget, considering i have 10 lights on my rig(including the ones on the rack), and thats before i get into the strobes or horns or anything else that is electrical on the truck that already isnt in a sealed plug... i mean heck the weatherpacks arent the cheapest but they do the job and i havent found them to be too bad considering what im getting them for. i do like the looks of those Deutsch ones though.
im only using the weatherpacks cause ran across them by accident and i can get them in bulk for fairly cheap... and im a uniform nazi, so sense i already started with weatherpacks...

There are cheaper places to buy them, including in kit form. Typically they are $4-8 per connector.

To provide a comparison of quality: Weather packs can be found on a 90's Chevrolet. Deutsch connectors can be found on Caterpillar tractors.

Also: as a side note: If you add dielectric grease to the weatherpack seal, they seal better. But any electric component which is resistance-variable (such as temperature sensors or oxygen sensors) will give false readings if dielectric grease is on the contacts.
 

the kid

Juke Box Hero
There are cheaper places to buy them, including in kit form. Typically they are $4-8 per connector.

To provide a comparison of quality: Weather packs can be found on a 90's Chevrolet. Deutsch connectors can be found on Caterpillar tractors.

Also: as a side note: If you add dielectric grease to the weatherpack seal, they seal better. But any electric component which is resistance-variable (such as temperature sensors or oxygen sensors) will give false readings if dielectric grease is on the contacts.

yeah i was saying about $10 per device, so one light would require two connectors(male and female), ad at $4-5 each, thats $8-10 per light... at 10 lights thats $80-100, and i spend $150 and got enough to do about 30 items... and i use dielectric grease on almost all of my conections -yes i dont use them on sensors like a/f, o2 ect... -i do how ever just a little bit of vaseline on the seals to help with the weather proofing.
 

the kid

Juke Box Hero
so today i installed a new CB antenna mount...

originally they were designed as light mounts, but sense i have a snorkel the passenger side does not work. i got them from CBI to test out as i was the first customer with a snorkel to buy these -i did a little write up over on T4R about them... anyhow i decided to keep the drivers side and use it as a CB antenna mount. and another guy over there like the idea so much he is buying the other side for the same thing...


IMG_5290 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_5289 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_5271 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_5274 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_5285 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_5286 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_5287 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_5288 by isaacyocum, on Flickr


how it mounts...

IMG_5236 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_5238 by isaacyocum, on Flickr
 

soonenough

Explorer
New CB mount looks good. I'm planning to go with something similar because I'm tired of the Diamond lip mount I have on the hood now. It's rough on the paint on the hood. Speaking of which, the paint on your 4R is immaculate; is that the original paint?

I like the Umbrella Corp sticker too, that's really cool....one of the epic video games of my childhood. :sombrero:
 

the kid

Juke Box Hero
well thanks, i guess its more the camera or the computer then, cause my paint is total garbage, its trashed. about the only thing its not doing is flaking off or oxidizing. i have pin stripes all down the sides of it, it has been egged before i got it, had one shoty detail job that burned the paint in a few areas and they cooked polishing compound into scratches and chips in the pain... idk id like to repaint it, but i cant justify spending $15k or so to do it the right way so im gonna leave it as is.

here is a couple that will really show some of the scratches im talking about

IMG_1818 by isaacyocum, on Flickr

IMG_1815 by isaacyocum, on Flickr
 

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