scooter421
Adventurer
Thanks Oz, lol....it's a standard measuring stick in the shop! It's a funny thing, I always seem to have them readily available in the shop....if one gets "damaged" I always have replacement. 
Freightliner ambulance conversion project.
- Thread starter Ozrockrat
- Start date
Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
Might be heading to California next week in the truck so I decided it was time to remove the front Ambo lights. It was a PITA as they just bolted through the roof for the rotating lights. I had to grind the heads off the bolts as getting a wrench on the inside would of entailed removing the headliner. So now I have 8 bolt/nut bits floating around in the headliner. To seal the holes I used some 6mm rivnuts with stainless rubber lagged washers and stainless cap head screws. All I need to work out now is a reasonable way to seal the 3/4 holes left by the cables. Surprisingly they had not used a weather sealing gland to bring these through the roof only a normal rubber chassis bush. With about 1/2 tube of silicon per side.
I also pulled the lights off the front of the box. These will be replaced by 2 yellow LED (for emergency flashers and the middle one will be a white LED area light. Luckily on mine there are only 4 screw holes and a 1/2" hole for the wiring so no big deal to seal. This area will eventually be covered by the roof rack and spare tires.
I also pulled the lights off the front of the box. These will be replaced by 2 yellow LED (for emergency flashers and the middle one will be a white LED area light. Luckily on mine there are only 4 screw holes and a 1/2" hole for the wiring so no big deal to seal. This area will eventually be covered by the roof rack and spare tires.
rlrenz
Explorer
The 3/4 hole is easy to plug - look for a standard hole plug for an NMF antenna (Its the same one you see on the roof of retired police cars). Amazon, where else: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IF5PC64/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's an add-on item, but it's easy to find something else that you need
It's an add-on item, but it's easy to find something else that you need
rlrenz
Explorer
If you used 6 mm rivnuts to plug the holes, what size were the bolts? 6 mm is less than 1/4", so it sounds like they may have been 10-32?
And yes, metal duct tape is great stuff. Not the aluminum colored plastic tape, but the tape that is thin aluminum with adhesive. It's considered the only permanent duct tape since the plastic/cloth versions dry out and fall off with time.
And yes, metal duct tape is great stuff. Not the aluminum colored plastic tape, but the tape that is thin aluminum with adhesive. It's considered the only permanent duct tape since the plastic/cloth versions dry out and fall off with time.
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Considering we have the same truck, you'd think the suspension would be the same. Perhaps it's just camera angle, but your upper block seems to be very tapered. And mine, which is actually attached to and part of the swing arm, is pretty much dead flat. I know you put your spacer block between that upper block and the axle... but it seems, on ours, that it would go better above the swing arm block, between it and the suspension arm. Hmmmm... I'll let you know what I come up with.
Edit: I'm assuming they are the same. In looking at it again, I believe it's just the angle at which your photograph is taken. I'm sure they're identical...
Edit: I'm assuming they are the same. In looking at it again, I believe it's just the angle at which your photograph is taken. I'm sure they're identical...
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Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
When you remove that block you will see why I put it in the middle. We machined the block to take advantage of the shape of the existing block. Also we machined the surfaces in parallel. If there is any realignment on the angle needed it can be done with the tapered shims but in theory there should not be any needed.
Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
Had a little spare time this afternoon so I decided to rotate the tires. More to swap the sides that are exposed to the sun here in AZ than wear. But I discovered I had forgotten to get a replacement set of centering bullets (that we we called them in Oz). A traveler took a shine to them and rather than wait for a set to be delivered here I let him take mine and I was to order a new set. Since I suffer from FDL syndrome (Fat, Dumb and Lazy) I had completely spaced out on ordering them and of coarse I discovered it after jacking the truck up and loosing off the wheel nuts on 1 side.
So grabbed the verniers and off to Home Despite. Managed to find some copper fittings that will make do to protect the threads on the studs but not really a centering tool. Check the photos and you will see what I mean. I will chase down the part numbers in case anyone needs a set to carry in the truck for when you have a flat. But I would recommend the centering bullets if the price doesn't frighten you off.
And now I am inside a set of these have been ordered.
https://www.amazon.com/SPC-Performance-32111-Wheel-Centering/dp/B005BHRKYQ
So grabbed the verniers and off to Home Despite. Managed to find some copper fittings that will make do to protect the threads on the studs but not really a centering tool. Check the photos and you will see what I mean. I will chase down the part numbers in case anyone needs a set to carry in the truck for when you have a flat. But I would recommend the centering bullets if the price doesn't frighten you off.
And now I am inside a set of these have been ordered.
https://www.amazon.com/SPC-Performance-32111-Wheel-Centering/dp/B005BHRKYQ
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Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
They are hub centric but there is always play. And putting the wheel on you drag the rim along the threads. Now with lumpy tires like mine a few thou is probably not going to be noticeable but making the wheel easier to fit is definitely an advantage. They also save the threads on the studs from damage. If you take a look at this photo you can see how the rim is up against the threads of the stud. It's mainly rotated on the hub. This is the result of my lack of Spanish skills with a little Llantras on a trip.
Also checkout this video it sort of shows what I am talking about.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=69crAXUmpZE
Obviously the copper ones I used will not center the wheel but they do make them easier to install and protect the threads.
Also the tires I am running are about 150 lbs for just the tire. Fitted to the beadlock rims and inflated I am in the 280-300 lb per wheel. It takes a lot of grunt to wriggle them into my very tight wheel arches.
Also checkout this video it sort of shows what I am talking about.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=69crAXUmpZE
Obviously the copper ones I used will not center the wheel but they do make them easier to install and protect the threads.
Also the tires I am running are about 150 lbs for just the tire. Fitted to the beadlock rims and inflated I am in the 280-300 lb per wheel. It takes a lot of grunt to wriggle them into my very tight wheel arches.
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Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
Talk about a duck out of water. This is my truck in the valet parking at the Crowne Casino Commerce CA.
At first the valet guys crapped themselves. Then luckily 1 turned up that had a CDL. But the alternative parking was out the back in the public lot. But too sketchy for me.
At first the valet guys crapped themselves. Then luckily 1 turned up that had a CDL. But the alternative parking was out the back in the public lot. But too sketchy for me.
