My locks are a combination of 501 and 510. My intent is to change them all out for barrel locks with 1 common key. Maybe 1 compartment using a 2nd key. They aren't especially cheap, but they're much better locks with keys the average schmo isn't going to have around.
Black Friday Ambo
- Thread starter flightcancled
- Start date
My locks are a combination of 501 and 510. My intent is to change them all out for barrel locks with 1 common key. Maybe 1 compartment using a 2nd key. They aren't especially cheap, but they're much better locks with keys the average schmo isn't going to have around.
flightcancled
Explorer
Thanks guys!
Ugh! Oh well I am really unhappy with the idea of knowing that any savvy EMT can break into my rig, but then someone who works with any E350 fleet probably has enough random door keys to do the same. EMTs are usually good eggs anyway right? Right??? Either way that front door where I am working now is one of 3 latches needing a new lock. Before the cabinet was screwed in which made entry a hassle. Now nothing is stopping someone from crawling in.
The ambo shore power system usually feeds to a box where it splits off to the inverter, inside outlets, battery maintainer/ power source, and the block heater. Now if you wanted/had to you could run the block heater off the inverter (batteries), but normally it is wired parallel and simply comes on when the rig is plugged in. Optional equipment can include a disable switch so you don't waste power or pop a breaker when its warm out. Personally a plug system is a better choice than a switch because you can elect to heat the block off your house batteries if needed.
Ugh! Oh well I am really unhappy with the idea of knowing that any savvy EMT can break into my rig, but then someone who works with any E350 fleet probably has enough random door keys to do the same. EMTs are usually good eggs anyway right? Right??? Either way that front door where I am working now is one of 3 latches needing a new lock. Before the cabinet was screwed in which made entry a hassle. Now nothing is stopping someone from crawling in.
The ambo shore power system usually feeds to a box where it splits off to the inverter, inside outlets, battery maintainer/ power source, and the block heater. Now if you wanted/had to you could run the block heater off the inverter (batteries), but normally it is wired parallel and simply comes on when the rig is plugged in. Optional equipment can include a disable switch so you don't waste power or pop a breaker when its warm out. Personally a plug system is a better choice than a switch because you can elect to heat the block off your house batteries if needed.
patoz
Expedition Leader
When the unit leaves the manufacturer, it's intended use is as an ambulance and it uses normal automotive batteries, and not deep cycle or 'house' batteries. The OEM installed inverter, i.e. the Vanner brand, is normally not used unless the engine is running, thereby preserving the battery power. If the engine is already running, then there is no need to operate the engine bock heater, right?
I don't know the exact specs, but a block heater is a heat producing device and therefore has a high amperage draw (1,000 Watts average). Operating it through the inverter for the half hour or so that it would take, could possibly draw down the starting batteries enough to make the whole process null and void. If your starting batteries are fully charged and your glow plug and relay system is operating properly, you shouldn't really even need the engine block heater except in extreme cold.
My point is, the block heater can be wired anyway you want it to be, but normally you want it to draw power from somewhere such as shore power or a generator, and not from the on-board 12VDC system via the inverter, unless you do have a rather large 'House Bank' which is isolated from the starting system. Although, this could provide a last-ditch emergency procedure if all else fails.
As Alex said, normally it draws power from the shore power system. Ambulances are designed to be plugged in to 120VAC power anytime they are parked at their station waiting on a call. This is for charging the vehicle batteries, charging the portable electronic medical equipment and portable radios, and in some cases the engine block heater.
Have you ever noticed that anytime you see an ambulance in the field, at a vehicle accident, residence, or business, it's always running even if it's emergency lights are not operating? A lot of departments have a policy that states you will not shut down the engine unless you are in a long standby situation, such as at a sports event, etc. and conditions are favorable for restart.
Here is something you guys might want to take a look at. It addresses the same topic here: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/295560-12v-block-heater-2.html
And just FYI, it heats the coolant, not the oil. http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/block-heater-replacement-183048/
Thank you for the detailed response. I understand that these are normally plugged in or running so running a block heater of the inventor may not be needed. I take mine skiing and often it's bellow zero. She will start but doesn't like it one bit. I am planning on installing a large house bank and having the option to run the block heater might be nice......or maybe I will stick to my small honda genorater instead.
flightcancled
Explorer
Your best option is a diesel fired coolant heater. With some valve work this is also a way to heat the back without the engine.
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flightcancled
Explorer
Here's the interior progress.
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Darkrider
Adventurer
Agreed!
flightcancled
Explorer
Thanks for the kind words! Just a matter of time working with the materials to learn their strengths, weaknesses, and a few tricks.
Pat despite the million threads on those things I have yet to see any use for them until now in my build. You have an interesting point!
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Pat despite the million threads on those things I have yet to see any use for them until now in my build. You have an interesting point!
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flightcancled
Explorer
Does anyone have a navy blue interior? I have a bunch of the snap on screw covers in navy blue from the cab. The rest of my interior is grey so these are of no use to me.
Also before I pull the trigger can anyone give a good reason I should shy away from a diesel bunk heater? I have a line on an espar airtronic for less than 300 that's new but in an opened box. I will still continue to look for a deal on a coolant heater as well to help start the engine in the cold and as an option to heat the box. The air heater uses a little more power, but I am guessing that I will have to run it less.
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Also before I pull the trigger can anyone give a good reason I should shy away from a diesel bunk heater? I have a line on an espar airtronic for less than 300 that's new but in an opened box. I will still continue to look for a deal on a coolant heater as well to help start the engine in the cold and as an option to heat the box. The air heater uses a little more power, but I am guessing that I will have to run it less.
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