Rivets or welds... can you help me out?

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Well, after a long day of tacking and welding in my sheet metal on my trailers front box, I am at a cross roads.

I am trying to figure out if I should weld up my sheet metal, or rivet it onto the tube frame.

Pro's of welding:

1.Faster than the riveting.
2. Cleaner look than the rivets, easier to paint and prep.
3. I don't have to buy a kerbillion rivets.

Con's of welding:


1. It is too cold to get my weld through primer to set up correctly.
2. Instructions call for 70*, and there is no way I can get my garage that warm, and my test piece failed miserably and came out a mess.
3. Can't get any rust proofing between the panels since its too cold to prime.
4. Controling the heat and warping issues.

Pro's of Riveting:
1. I can use Sikaflex and rivets and get a super strong, water-tight bond.
2. Easy, and I don't have to worry about warpage.
3. Easier to readjust/repair/modify down the road.

Con's of Riveting:
1. I loose the smooth look of the welded steel.
2. I have drill about a gazillion holes.
3. I have to buy about a gazillion rivets.
4. Could be messy with the adhesive/sealant.

I am open to your thoughts... fire away!

Thanks! :D
 

Desertdude

Expedition Leader
I used rivets for the steel skin to square tube frame - it was a ton of work many holes to drill... I filled each hole with silicone then painted.

I am happy with the out come
 

UK4X4

Expedition Leader
So you want to panel from outside....mmmmmm

Welding the edge of 18 gauge or similar to a more solid mass is dificult

the sheet metal disapears before you get a good weld to the tube

In past projects i tried and gave up, I'm no expert welder and the finish was not good enough for me.

hence my panelling from the inside, even if i'd chosen steel, i'd have welded the panels from inside.

But if your design means sheet steel on the outside overlap on the exterior, use seam seal between the tube and sheet, then just tack in place from inside at the lowest power your welder has.

ie the glue forms the seal, and the weld simply keeps the panel in place,

not trying to weld the edge will be more succesful
 

007

Explorer
I would favor the rivets over welding because of the rust issue.

I also thought panel glue might be good. You know, the stuff GM mistakes for door hinge bolts.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Drew

It goes without saying steel rivets not aluminum. The aluminum will streach and of course you have the bi metal issue. Buy an air rivet gun to save yourself from getting carpo-tunnel use closed end rivets. A Drill Doctor to keep the drill bit sharp.

I like the look of rivet heads. My father was on the engineering team that built the Supermarine Spitfire, his research was to find out if the plane produced significant drag from the heads of the rivets on the body and wings. It did not and all production Spitfires had riveted bodies. So rivets must run in the family.

Have you considered having the trailer powder coated after you have finished it? They can lay that stuff on very thick and provided a great finish.
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Thanks everyone,

I knew I would get the best advice here.

UK4x4, I only have a few panels that attach from the outside, most of the side panels and tailgate panels attach from the inside and I planned on using rivets on those from the start. Now I see the brillance of your two in tubing over the 1" I am using. I only get one surface on the interior to rivet to, if I had the 2x1" tubing I could get 2 mounting surfaces... clear as mud?

Desertdude, do you have a pic you might show off? My rivets don't need to be filled, they stay pretty solid.

Martyn, thanks for chiming in, I am only going to use steel rivets because I will ground the trailer for wiring and I have seen electrolosis get the better of lots of rigs. And I do have a drill doctor, what a great tool!

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate it and I will let you know how it comes out.

THANKS EXPO!
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
DaveInDenver said:
You should get up to Terry's place and try out his new TIG machine.

Can't get the trailer up there yet. Want to yank your Wildernest off and help a brother out :yikes: :D
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Rezarf <>< said:
Can't get the trailer up there yet. Want to yank your Wildernest off and help a brother out.
You bet the southsiders got the northside's backs. :) But, I might have an easier solution if you think it would fit in a regular 6' x 5' mini truck bed. When were you thinking about doing this? I'm probably gonna end up at Terry's eventually anyway.
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
DaveInDenver said:
You bet the southsiders got the northside's backs. :) But, I might have an easier solution if you think it would fit in a regular 6' x 5' mini truck bed. When were you thinking about doing this? I'm probably gonna end up at Terry's eventually anyway.

I am going to keep it at my house, but thanks Dave!

IanB has a tig less than a mile from my house that I could beg him to weld this stuff up for me, but if I get the settings right on the welder it shouldn't be a problem.
 

Willman

Active member
Rivets are way cool!....This is a shot of my current project......Building a new Harley dealership out of reclaimed steel and wood.

DSC03400.jpg


Depending what the use is....rivets can sure make something look pretty sweet.......And are very strong!

I am a welding guy...but if their is finish paint involved....using rivets is the way to go....(heat from the welding burns off the paint)......For an example....I'm getting new fenders for my trailer......I'm ether going to rivet them or bolt them due to the finish paint on my trailer.....most likely bolt them on.....


:elkgrin:
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Probably too late, but Rosette welds would solve the edge 'burning' problem. Just drill a string of holes thru the panel(s) along where rivets might go, then weld thru the holes and fill them up.

If you do opt for rivets, where you can install them in an offset pattern, not in a straight line. FWIW I have seen 30+ year old aluminum fuel tanks made with rivets that did not leak.
 

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