Which van for a solo camper?

ihatemybike

Explorer
Congratulations, hope you end up enjoying your Astro as much as I have enjoyed all of mine.

1) I've never had ABS issues, well none that weren't caused by bad wheel bearings. Pretty sure Auto Zone can read the ABS codes for you for free.

2) Grab the idler arm and try moving it up and down. They shouldn't move too much. There are lots of grease zerks on the front end. I push fresh grease every oil change. Upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, idler arms, pitman arm.

3) I'm using Ranchos on Grumpy and Gabriels on Green, pretty happy with both.
 

Stroverlander

Adventurer
Congratulations on the purchase, you found a nice looking Astro!

The ABS issues is probably either a bad wheel bearing/hub assembly as ihatemybike mentions, a bad wheel speed sensor or faulty abs module.

The Kelsey-Hayes 265 ABS module is notorious for the soler joints cracking on the circuit board which can be repaired (re-soldered) fairly easily. I mention it a bit in my thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/72414-Astro-AWD-quot-Stroverlander-quot?p=1030482#post1030482

I doubt it's a proportioning issue, other than on later models the abs module does control rear brake proportioning and so heavy braking can be sketchy with a failed module. There a few good threads on the Astro/Safari forums, though if you don't find what you're looking for, I can direct you towards them. The good news is it's a relatively easy and cheap repair if you want to take it apart and solder it yourself.

For shocks, the Bilstein HD shocks I had pre-lift were great with excellent all-around damping characteristics for our vans and worked as well at 30k as new. I think you'd be very happy with the Bilstein HD over the long haul versus Rancho due to much better quality overall.
 

basemiles

New member
Thanks guys!!

I've read about the solder joint reliability issues on the ABS module, but from what I got, this shows up mainly over bumps. As in, the brake/ABS lights would be intermittently on. Mine are on all the time. I guess it doesn't hurt anything to take it apart and re-solder as preventative maintenance
I'll get under the van this weekend and look things over for any obvious signs of sensor damage, as well as any front end issues.
I've had Bilstein HDs on my Jetta in the past and was pretty happy with them, so leaning that way again. Any anecdotal experience with the KYB models?

ihatemybike - do I need to keep weight on the front wheels when I move the idler arms, or can the front be in the air?
 

Wiley

Adventurer
Same here, my light is permanently lit until my inspection comes around. I have both the yellow caution light and the red caution lights for my brakes lit 24/7 on my dash.....shhhh
 

basemiles

New member
It usually starts out intermittently as the solder joints crack and then completely which is what mine did.

Took it for a spin today, and the lights were off for the first 30-60s after starting, then came back on. Is that possible if the EBCM solder joints are bad?
 

Stroverlander

Adventurer
I think it's highly likely, those were the symptoms mine had for a while and it doesn't hurt anything to re-flow the solder on the module. You can test the wheel speed sensors at the connector with a multimeter while spinning each wheel to get a idea if the sensor or hub is faulty.
 

bdog1

Adventurer
Congrats on the van. That van looks clean! We need more pic"s too!

ABS after brakes. Check the basic stuff too. Damaged sensor wiring around the hubs/rotors or contact with moving parts. Maybe it will be something easy ?

Have someone "saw" the wheel back and forth with the engine off and look for play in the steering when changing directions. Or see if the idler arm deflects up and down?




Sent by wing, prayer & ATT
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,541
Messages
2,875,677
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top