Trailer build thread consolidated

[UK4X4]

Offroad trailer build thread consolidated

As I had a few varied subject threads, I decided it might be usefull for all the build details to be in one place, for anyone wanting ideas or inspiration for their own build, intstead of starting new diferent subject threads I'll try and keep everything here.


so here's a few sketches of plans, but I'm undesided on wether to build the side paniers out full width or only 8 out of the 12" to make it more asthetic...

what do you lot think ? side view would be the same for either

This is my present one, the sizes are about 6" wider box, 8" higher, actual width out to the fenders 2" larger either side, basicly where the open baskets are would be a rear drop down side openning and forward of the wheel arch
would be a side openning cabinet, similar to the lonewolf thread trailer

side frame rails are 3"x2" same wall thickness as in the other thread, I forget what it is

The zone where they come together will have a plate welded over it too,

Its quite dificult to get neat welds down within those angles

There will be other parts to the frame bring it out to the width of the rear bumper, in 2x2 light wall tube, the main box is 60" wide
the frame is 64" wide, so the frame is proud by 2" either side when finished.



To get the angle right is pretty easy, just need to get the V symetrical clamp the beam down, bend in the steel , clamp in place then weld.

Then the second one clamp ontop of the first and repeat to get them the same,

before doing the first top weld do a couple of tack's to keep things from moving

 

[UK4X4]

Well things are going slowly, busy at work and awaiting the baby......who's late...should have arrived today ......

the stork is obviously delayed or missed bakersfield in the smog....

rear box frame is taking shape, its seperate from the chassis as it all has to be dismountable....(company will not ship trailers but the will ship storage containers and steel frames.......

Sorting out the doors/seals and locking has taken a lot of cubalibres......Ie doors not proud of the frame, full seals, compressive locks, least pryable design, nothing unboltable/pryable....

It looks like the locks will end out being almost as much as the steel........

But I could of always used exterior hasps and a padlock, but their just so easy to pry off.

The doors will be recessed flush with the frame, a strip or small angle iron piece will make the seal mount, a rubber air filled automotive seal will be used.

The opening in the side panniers is 19' x 40 long, so well suitable for a kitchen, my old version had the kitchen in the rear.....with a lower down door...made the table 24" of the ground so only usable while sitting....

Door will open down, two inner ply doors with mounted stuff will hinge out left and right about 6" deep, to make sides.

then the rear cubbies and table part will slide out on drawer runners.

The kitchen side will ingress into the main box....but I have enough space, and no huge items.

The side pannies ended up the length of the wheel arches, which will make the front side door square and easier to make.

The fridge will mount inside the kitchen side door and slide out on drawer runners to complete the kitchen.

Wife is seriously bored....and had quite enough of the internal basket ball

any way a few pics

Straps etc are for pulling the frame into shape before welding, the thin wall tube does move significantly, and I've also used one of the 3" beams , washers, g clamps and a propane torch to force the steel square again........

Things seem to be square within an 1/8 inch and good enough for me, just takes a while checking and re-checking diagonals

Note this is just your average joes household garage....so hand tools only and a small welder......

 

[UK4X4]

Completed the rear door frame over christmas, and spent a while straightening the frame its self, for all my measurements and care the frame
was distorted by the welding, causing the top to bow up in the middle and the two main verticals to bow in.

I used a 3" square section heavy wall, some washers and G-Clamps to straighten it all out the best i could.

the door was assembled in situe with washers all round as spacers and welded up in place, to fit the hole......and when you let the clamps go.....it still moves...but it will work fine.

I've gone for two large hinges rather than piano, these you can see in the pics, but will be welded in place later.

The exterior panels etc will be 1/16" Aluminum chequer plate.........but don't worry no shiny stuff on this build, it will be sanded and painted over.

Security is a criterior to this build, so doors are sunk in to reduce prying, the materials are tougher than my last build, and slightly heavier too.

The latches will be sunk in and internal seals on all the doors, which will make for a lot more work than making exterior mount doors and a 1/8" foam seal, but this trailer will be the last for a while...and I'm not thinking on US issues.....further afield.. where security is an issue.

You can still see a bit of bow in the first picture in the upper cross beam...bugger

 

[UK4X4]

Q I've been searching for a suitable locking solution for my trailer doors,
with the front box etc there will be 6 in total.

The doors are resessed to stop prying, the door skin is riveted on the inside
The frame is 1' box section.

the hinges are externally welded to the door and internally screwed to the frame, for now, they'll probably end up welded..

So if i use a standard type slam latch it will take up 2 inches of internal space, and not supply much compression, the comression T locks I just got a sample of would give me 3" lost internal space

I don't want external hasps and dangly locks, think rattle and prying target

the round hocky puck and security hasps are nice but too big.


I'm not keen on the little cam latches.....

So what do you think of these.........with standard electric actuation, and emergency cable access......

Nothing on the outside, no key holes, no handles...positive locking and not a bad price.....

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HFM-BCLG&N=700+ 322941+115&autoview=sku

Obviously electrical failure is an issue, but if i arrange things nicely I can put a key locked emergency cable actuation handle inside a gas type little door,
then crawl inside the main box to reach all the other manual releases.

Imagine arriving at camp and pressing your remote and have all the hatches open..........pretty neat

 

[UK4X4]

Well after not too much buggering around...door No 1 is finished with the rotary catch.........................

and a few mock up pics of the diamond plate...please remember.....I'm painting the alu panels too...so its not a hummer bling trailer...

The catch was actually pretty easy to fit, and the openning force of the lock is quite small.

I'm not sure if they'll fit yet on the smaller doors as the top bars on the side panels are only 1", whereas the rear door has a 2" reveal at the top.

The pin will probably be cut down as only 3/8" of it actuall actuates the lock
and I'll be cleaning up the pin mount too.

So i have a little more checking and neatening up the welding at the catch mount.

Doing the reveals or sealing surfaces on these recessed doors has added conciderable time to my build, in comparison to simpler exterior mount doors.

Just fiddly welding in little 1/2 " angle and 1/8" flats...........It would have been a lot easier if I'd have made the frame out of 2x2 as well which would have made it easier...but I was worried about the weight.

right now even with the doors I can still lift the whole thing pretty easily.

 

[UK4X4]

OK here you go,

front box will open to lhs of photo, with drawer slides and the fridge,

Kitchen side door

kitchen and rear dropped down

seals, pain in the rear and fiddly, but very happy with results, need the joins filling

rear door up and closed......no catchs, locks, pry points, screws or bolts.......
neat finish but a lot of work.

 

[JeepN95YJ]

Love your trailer build. The latches are a terrific touch. I agree that pressing a button and having all the doors swing open would be quite a site!

I'm looking forward to the finished product.

(If the baby comes today we'll share a birthday...baby's birth....my 40th!)

 

[TheGillz]

I love it, well done. What do you plan for your old trailer?

 

[UK4X4]

"(If the baby comes today we'll share a birthday...baby's birth....my 40th!)"

The threads copied parts of diferent threads over the last few months ...so babies here already....arrived 30th of December.....Scarlet Alanis..


Old trailer was sold in jan....you may see it re-incarnated on the site by the new owner.

front door is on the box and i jury rugged the wiring and solenoid......its sweet

the door pops fully open on the flick of a switch....I think, I might just get the 4 channel remote......

 

[ntsqd]

Out of curiosity, have you seen the "door poppers" used by the rod & custom folks with shaved door handles?

 

[UK4X4]

yep but so far I don't need the poppers as the doors are way lighter than a vehicle door, and pop open with the action of the lock its self.

maybe I'll need something once its painted and the door seals are in place but I doubt it.

My present search is for dampers, so that the drop down doors lower slowly.....so not gas struts....dampers...

 

[JeepN95YJ]

"(If the baby comes today we'll share a birthday...baby's birth....my 40th!)"

The threads copied parts of diferent threads over the last few months ...so babies here already....arrived 30th of December.....Scarlet Alanis..

Well cheers!:beer:

My little girl is 5 months...WAY MORE WORK than her big brother

front door is on the box and i jury rugged the wiring and solenoid......its sweet

the door pops fully open on the flick of a switch....I think, I might just get the 4 channel remote......

Nice. Operate each individually.

If you can't find a damper that works properly, you could build your own. Just make a little rubber piston inside a tube. Basically a dry damper.

 

[ntsqd]

yep but so far I don't need the poppers as the doors are way lighter than a vehicle door, and pop open with the action of the lock its self.

maybe I'll need something once its painted and the door seals are in place but I doubt it.

My present search is for dampers, so that the drop down doors lower slowly.....so not gas struts....dampers...

There is such a thing in industrial automation, but I'm not sure how you'd employ them. Try page 1173 at mcmaster.com.

 

[UK4X4]

This weeks work done.....

added the side bars with space for the fenders
built and fitted front box door
added angle to attach the floor 1/2" ply
fitted and tested first door opener..works sweet
started to fit the mounting plates for the frame to cabinets

have 90% of the alu plates in the garage but I'm witing to finish a little more before it gets panelled out

dampers I need are on the next page.....a little more costly than another place I found, but thanks for the link.

I think at the end of the build I'll post a link list with all the suppliers

 

[GeoTracker90]

Nice work on the trailer. I always get a kick out of watching a build come together. One question that I have. Concerning the electric latch actuators, do you have a mechanical back up in case of an electrical failure?

You might have covered this and I just missed it.

Again, nice build.

Mike