Solar system logic explained
Here is a rationalization of why I went with the portable 90watt folding solar system from Overlandsolar.
I run a big and remote ranch and we have a dozen stand alone solar systems ranging in size from small two battery systems to huge state of the art tracker arrays with battery banks that weigh over 20,000lbs, and several sizes in between. I'm hands on with them every day so I'm not a complete solar newbie.
For my camper I wanted the system to meet a lot of different criteria.
- economical
- no weight added up high
- no roof penetrations
- simple - I don't want to have to assemble a major contraption every time I use it.
- compact
- reliable and proven design with quality components
- versatile
- durable
- out of harms way (when traveling on rough roads/wooded areas)
- adjustable array so as to easily situate for maximum gain as needed (without having to climb onto the roof)
- a SOC/volt meter for monitoring the batteries
- battery isolator, preferably with a selector switch
- a better/larger deep cycle house battery
As I purchased it, my camper has a simple dual battery set up which charges off the 95amp alternator when the vehicle is running. It was professionally installed and is properly protected with relay's/fuses but it is not ideal as there is no means of battery isolation. If the house battery dies, the engine battery dies. This is also a problem in that the current two batteries are different types/sizes. I have no plans to ever install in inverter.
In the 9 months that I have had the camper I have been able to make it work. While on my trips I have driven every day so both batteries were charged. When I start driving in the morning I turn the fridge to be colder and do the opposite when I hit camp. I installed numerous AA battery powered lights in the camper and only used the 12v house lights judiciously. Despite all of the extra Blue Sea and Magnadyne 12v sockets and USB outlets I installed, I only charged devices while driving. If I did need to charge a device while at camp I used an Anker 26,000 mAh battery pack or a small Anker folding solar charger. It worked but was extra gear and not ideal.
My loads when camping are the refrigerator (3amps when running), house lights (4 fixtures with two 10watt bulbs in each fixture - 80watts!), stereo, phone and Ipad charger, vehicle dome light (2 bulbs - can't remember wattage). Occasional use switched aux loads are the house water pump, onboard air compressor and the winch.
I was very concerned when I went to the Expo this year. I was going to be parked for 3 days and didn't want to have to run my engine each day. The first thing I did at the Expo was do a walk thru, looking at the solar systems of both the vendors and the Expo attendees. By noon of the first day I had made a decision and purchased a turnkey system from Overlandsolar.com. It is a quality built 90 watt tri-fold unit using very good Bosch cells, a sturdy frame with corner protection and fold out legs, good latches and handle, has a charge controller and comes with a very nice form fitted semi-rigid storage case. It was less than $400! He had larger and smaller systems as well. I took it back to my truck at lunch and in less than 5 minutes had it unpacked and hooked up. I used my multimeter to verify that it was charging and immediately turned my fridge down (from 2 1/2 to 3 1/2). The super cold beer was nice! The system worked without incident and the vehicle batteries were fully charged when I started it 3 days later, just prior to my departure. I then jump started the neighbor next to me - he idled every day but didn't quite make it thru the last night. A solar system is on his list too.
This set-up meets most of my criteria.
- The price was right
- it is ready to go right out of the box and 90 watts is perfect for my loads - I was at full charge in a couple of hours each day.
- quick and easy to set up - just set it out and clamp the leads to the battery
- isn't mounted on the roof so no added weight aloft
- not subject to trail damage (if secured properly in the vehicle)
- not subject to the sun/weather degradation when not in use - should last a lifetime unless I physically damage it (this is why I loved the nice case)
- can be re-positioned a few times a day for ideal gain if need be so it can be a smaller array (as compared to a fixed panel)
- don't have to worry about orienting the vehicle as it relates to solar gain
- I can take it with me or not, and can move it between vehicles
- it has a charge controller
While looking around at the various vehicles I saw a super simple, inexpensive solution for a SOC/volt meter. It is made by Innova and plugs into a cigarette lighter (12volt outlet). When the engine is running it displays the voltage being put out by the alternator (gauges the health/function of the alternator and voltage regulator) and when the engine is off it displays the battery voltage and state of charge of the battery system. I compared it's read out to my high end multimeter and it is right on the money. It was $13 on Amazon.
Now I just need to figure out what I'm going to do for a battery isolator/switch and get a better/larger deep cycle battery. For the latter I have heard good things about the Odyssey batteries. I looked at the National Luna dual battery set up but, being smart, limits how the batteries can be switched (ie for winching). I have to learn more about that aspect of a battery system. Any input would be much appreciated.
I also purchased LED bulbs from Overland Solar to replace the standard ones for the house and vehicle dome lights. Man, what a difference. Not all LED bulbs are created equal and the ones he sells are the good ones. His prices were incredible compared to what I've seen in the auto parts store and RV stores. With the 10 new bulbs in the camper it was so bright I had to switch half the fixtures off. I got the warm white bulbs and it is a very pleasant light. Now I don't have to use my AA battery powered fixtures. Yay!
Hope this is of some help to someone.
Cheerio.
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