Purchased an Expedition G Wagen

[McBride]

Here's a picture of my '05 hub. I tried to find the cleanest spot to measure.

View attachment 277260

Kind of a sloppy fit in my opinion. I wonder if one could find a speedi sleeve that would work...that would be a whole lot easier (and a WAY cheaper experiment) than machining the wheel.

Edit.... Like maybe this one from SKF. Catalog says wall thickness is ~.28mm. It would be a tight fit but better than sloppy as heck. Probably in the $30-50 each range.

View attachment 277268

Interesting.

Poobah at 84ish with a 2000 Europa SWB, MG at 85ish with an '05 MBUSA (G500?) and Jeremy with a loose fitting W1207 (84.6 bore) on a 2003 G500.

I'll measure my 1980 460 and 2000 G500 this weekend and see what I get.

I'll also post the question on P3 as well. Those guys know the I.D., O.D., length, metallurgy and thread pitch of the taillight screws and every variation of such since the concept of the G so this one should be easy for them.

William



William

 

[McBride]

I was told by my source at Hutchinson that the 0491 was for the gas Pinzgauer. Still trying to confirm that with some local Pinz owners.

That's very good info. If that is indeed the case then the choice of (3) G wheels I mentioned is incorrect on my part. Interesting though that the G and (gas) Pinz have the same bolt pattern.

Keep us posted on what you find out.

 

[Haf-E]

I was told by my source at Hutchinson that the 0491 was for the gas Pinzgauer. Still trying to confirm that with some local Pinz owners.

The Hutchinson's only fit on the newer diesel Pinzgauers - made from 1985 on and called the 716 and 718 models. They share the same bolt circle with the G-wagons.

The older gas Pinzgauers had an odd sized bolt circle of 5 x 160mm which is only shared with the Ford Transit vans and Mahrinda pick-ups (go figure)...

 

[McBride]

Measured the camper hub today - 84mm ish. I'm relieved as the W0492's I bought should be a nice hub centric fit.

Good feedback so far on the question I posted on P3.

One point made is that wether or not the fit is perfectly hub centric (a little slop), the g wagen lug bolt balls should correctly center the wheel independent of the hub. Theoretically that should work but I think Jeremy's experience was a little different.

Jeremy, do you recall if your G had 17mm or 19mm lug bolts?

 

[McBride]

pics from this week

Here are some interesting camper related pics taken over the last few days.

 

[McBride]

 

[mk216v]

Interesting.

Poobah at 84ish with a 2000 Europa SWB, MG at 85ish with an '05 MBUSA (G500?) and Jeremy with a loose fitting W1207 (84.6 bore) on a 2003 G500.

I'll measure my 1980 460 and 2000 G500 this weekend and see what I get.

I'll also post the question on P3 as well. Those guys know the I.D., O.D., length, metallurgy and thread pitch of the taillight screws and every variation of such since the concept of the G so this one should be easy for them.

William



William

84.6mm was the ID of my WA-1207 Hutchinson. I can't remember the exact OD of my hub, but it has to be 85mm like MG's. So I had 0.4mm of slop.
Someone should try a Speedy Sleeve and see if it works. Good call MG.

 

[mk216v]

Measured the camper hub today - 84mm ish. I'm relieved as the W0492's I bought should be a nice hub centric fit.

Good feedback so far on the question I posted on P3.

One point made is that wether or not the fit is perfectly hub centric (a little slop), the g wagen lug bolt balls should correctly center the wheel independent of the hub. Theoretically that should work but I think Jeremy's experience was a little different.

Jeremy, do you recall if your G had 17mm or 19mm lug bolts?

But then you're relying on the LUGS to center the wheel, thus much more force(MG could speak more enginerd forces about this) on the lugs themselves...when(and I just put this info/document together for a Porsche Club tech day recently) the centerbore of the wheel should be centering itself on the hub, and the lugs are simply what secure the wheel to the hub.
In fact, during this tech session I had shared my own account of when I had H&R studs protruding from the hub, Westy lug nuts, and a bit less-than-spec'd torque on the nuts...on my big 2wk SW trip a few years ago, the lug nuts started working loose. Due to the wheel not being perfectly hubcentric to the hub, there was enough oscillation(due to wheel not being 100% hubcentric) to cause a few of the studs to shear off(yeah, wasn't fun extracting them during our trip).
With the GVWR of these rigs, these wheels NEED to be 100% hubcentric to the hub.

19mm lug heads--same as Westy nuts.

 

[McBride]

Yikes! Not something I'd want to do... Anywhere. Especially while on vacation.

I have a question as I can't quite picture your configuration. You mention studs and lug nuts. We're they after market add-ons? Both my G's have lug bolts.

Thanks.

William

 

[mk216v]

Yikes! Not something I'd want to do... Anywhere. Especially while on vacation.

I have a question as I can't quite picture your configuration. You mention studs and lug nuts. We're they after market add-ons? Both my G's have lug bolts.

Thanks.

William

Well thankfully it occurred early on, about 1hr away from a close friend who lives on horse property. Turned out the land owner had a "horse barn"(great, at least we won't have to do this in any rain--I was thinking), so I was expecting dirt or wood chip floor, etc. No, it was cemented floor where he parks the $600k combine. So it had torches, full tools, blah blah...and my close friend is a car nut who was eager for a project so he jumped right in with us. Boy did we were blessed.

Yes, aftermarket H&R wheel studs that thread into your hub, then VW Westfalia open-ended nuts. The reason I went with this initially was so that if I had a flat, I'd have a much easier time hoisting/hanging the 104lb wheel/tire onto 5 studs sticking out, vs trying to hold the wheel/tire up while at the same time threading lug bolts in. Having been there done that, since studs/nuts are two items which could both work loose(stud out of the hub, nut off the stud), vs a wheel lug which is only one item which could work loose(lug out of hub), I'd now recommend using wheel lug bolts, but getting 2-3 wheel studs and carrying them in your repair kit. This way if you do get a flat, once the wheel/tire is going back on the hub, you screw 2-3 studs into the hub, hoist/hang the heavy Hutchinson/tire onto those studs, screw in your remaining 2-3 wheel lug bolts, remove the 2-3 wheel studs, and install the remaining 2-3 wheel lugs. This way the studs allow you to set the wheel/tire onto the hub without breaking your back in trying to hold the wheel/tire up there and at the same time trying to thread a lug bolt in to secure the wheel/tire to the hub.

Here's a pic I found online of what my stud/nut arrangement looked like;

 

[TCao]

Or you can use a MB wheel mounting pin (less than $7 from eurotruck-importers.com. Screw this pin into the top-most threaded hole and mount your wheel and screw in the other four lug bolts; remove pin and screw in the fifth bolt. It's pretty simple and inexpensive.

 

[mk216v]

Another great alternative, and factory cool to boot! I'd recommend having two so the wheel/tire doesn't swing. (For comparison sake, H&R studs are $4-6 or so each).

 

[McBride]

Brake pics

During this round of camper mods I'm upgrading from the circa 1980 460 brakes. The camper is heavier than a stock G and extra stopping power would be nice.

The new ones for the front are new G500 rotors and calipers and the rear are 300CDI (Professional)

Here is a comparison pic of the fronts.

 

[McBride]

Thanks Jeremy and TCAO.

Those pins are definitely on the list. I've been managing without them but with the weight of the new wheel/tire combo I'll be ordering them on Monday.

 

[mk216v]

Vented rotors, and larger to boot--excellent upgrade William!