Bigfoot winter cold mods ....update diesel heater installation

libarata

Expedition Leader
You would be surprised at how much heat, in a small space, a candle will put out. It will not do anything for your insulation, but a candle will help keep things a smidge warmer for a few cents.
 

libarata

Expedition Leader
We always used votive candle holders(little glass globes), but I guess there are these things called candle lanterns. There are a few out there. Some look flimsy as all get out, and some look reasonably sturdy.

This one looks to run on tea candles, but I assume small votives would fit nicely. You can hang it, of set it down. Two of these, with good blankets should do juuuuust nice in cold weather, http://www.sunnysports.com/p-clnacl/coghlans-aluminum-candle-lantern
 

deminimis

Explorer
If you wanted to get serious about heat, Dickinson offers a couple options that might be of interest. The smaller diesel heater only burns 1.29 gals every 24hrs at the low setting. Not very large either.
They also have a LP version, as well as a solid fuel version (pellets, I assume). With a 62 gal diesel tank in my truck, I could have heat for some time. They also offer some water/engine coolant options too. http://www.dickinsonmarine.com/dheaters.php
 
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Umtaneum

Adventurer
We put hydronic heat in the floor of our '89 bigfoot for a while, ran it off of the stock 6 gal water heater. It was sort of a redneck engineering build but it worked. The last time we gutted the bigfoot and redid it, I pulled the lines out. You never saw such a mess as when one of those lines burst under the floor one winter.

Dickinson heaters are great, we had the solid fuel one in a sailboat many years ago. They recommended compressed sawdust logs, I usually burned drift wood chunks. It would drive you right out of the 27' sailboat in 20 degree weather. You need a chimney exiting the roof, that might be an issue at 65 mph on the freeway with weird drafts blowing ash all over your camper.
 

uriedog

metal melter
We have a 2500 series big foot and I am NOT impressed with the insulation although better than most
View attachment 209325

easyshell.

when you put the paneling back in what did you use as an adhesive? I am just about to start putting the walls back up after gutting mine. I have been filling all the insulation voids before. And you are very correct they left allot of open spaces. especially in the corners.
 

deminimis

Explorer
I'd recommend 3M marine adhesive (fast dry). Since you don't have to worry about UV, 5200 will work great (it will never come apart though w/out destroying the panel, so keep that in mind). HD sells the 5200 fast dry in 10oz tubes (you'll need a lot of tubes, so not the best way to go). HD sells 5200 in chalking gun sized cartridges (1/10 gal), but that stuff does take 7 days to cure and it will run on vert surfaces. Marine suppliers or Amazon if you need the fast dry in the cartridges. If not wanting to make it permanent, then there are more removable versions (4200, for example). Big fan of the stuff (I use it on through-hull fittings below the waterline and 4000UV for sealing on our former RV and on our camper, and just about everything I can think of).
 

uriedog

metal melter
Thanks Home to the Depot I will go.

I just want something that won't eat the foam insulation, and has excellent holding properties. If I need to put a few staples in to hold things in place while it dries that's ok. And if it stays stuck for ever that's even better
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Ive worked with 5200.

I like PL Premium (loctite) much better.

Polyurethane.
Incredible hold
waterproof
safe for all foams
MUCH cheaper than 5200

20987f08-7f75-47d6-8413-b75d4c8ee136_400.jpg
 

Umtaneum

Adventurer
Using 5200 for insulation in a camper is the equivalent of hunting grasshoppers with a 12 gauge. When I tried to remove the teak handrails on my old sailboat that I had used 5200 and through bolts on, the wood splintered before the 5200 would let go.
 

dfrank

Observer
I'm not certain about the PL premium, but the PL400 will eat away foam. The PL 300 is for foam.

I run a pop top all winter , and the 1.5" under the floor along with carpet and padding was the single comfiest upgrade we did, along with a foot shelf to facilitate North South sleeping.I might put another 1.5" under it that next time I take it out. AGMs inside also sounds like a no brainer.
 

mijab_au

New member
How cold is too cold?

Hi all,
Thought I would give you all an update from our annual ski trip with the lack of snow out west making it tough. I have made no real changes to what I chronicled here last year and we have been fundamentally been pleased with the winter performance, however last week we skied Jackson Hole with overnight temps 5-10F (-10 -13C) degree range with no problems. We turn the heat down to about 55 for the camper at night and all is good with no water freezing issues or any other problems and the basement temps in the high 30s F, furnace kicks in every 20-25min. hot showers after skiing, all good. Well we decided to head up to Big Sky MT since they had just received about a foot of fresh snow so after skiing Sat. we headed north to West Yellowstone MT where we spent the night.
By early morning it was -14F (-25C) which I can say is the limit for our Bigfoot 2500 series with the current mods. Basement temps had dropped to +16F (-9C) the furnace was on after being off for only about 5 mins. and although the only items that actually froze were the dump valves many weaknesses were apparent.
Need:
More insulation
Better windows
ERV ventilation
Quiet heat


So as I get closer to the Fuso project I will keep you all posted.

mijab
08 F350
67 CJ5
08 Opel 1.3cdti....75hp of turbo diesel POWER! (Mongol Rally 2012)
08 Defender 110
07 Fuso FG
 

incognito

Adventurer
hy,

if you do like to go skying at those temps I would recommed the bigfoot 3000 rated -40 C with double windows 2 inch insulation 10.5 floor a lot better. had one for 3 month, best camper I,ve saw and probably the best ever built. but is heavier around 5000 lbs you need at least a f550 dually to move that thing...because is so heavy people don't like it and it less money than a 2500 series
other than that you could try a 2 inch foam under the camper, like I did, under the matress 1 inch foam, window plastic screen sold at home depot does a great job in cutting the cold air from windows without adding to much weight. I would to some kind of a removable protective box with a 3-4 inch insulation to cover the dump valve, make a 3 inch hole with a 12V fan to push more hot air from the camper to the valve area. valve area is far on the corner and doesn't get much heat from the camper

some use in rvs olympian catalitic heaters quiet, very efficient to heat the interior and less humidity than regular rv furnace( good for heating the exterior)
no problems with the fridge at those temps? some say the fridge is not working at those temps
incognito
 

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