Bigfoot winter cold mods ....update diesel heater installation

mijab_au

New member
Hi Everyone,
I have been around here for about a year or so as I originally was planning a Mitsu FG build but after all considerations I decided to shortcut (at least for the time being) via the truck camper route. Before I get started I would like to thank everyone on this forum for all the great bits and pieces of advice that I have plucked from various builds and discussions, truly a wonderful asset.
Our main mission is an all season extreme cold capable winter ski-mobile for the wife and I. There were a lot of details so I will try and keep this short and get to my modifications which have now all been tested for a couple of weeks in the low single digits Fahrenheit while skiing in Utah, Wyoming, BC and Oregon or about 3k miles. We wanted to be able to stay warm and be able to boondock in the winter for a reasonable amount of time while keeping everything relatively light. Much searching on this forum led us to the Bigfoot brand camper which we purchased used, but hardly so.
Base truck is a 08 F350 XL 4x4 Crew-cab long-bed 6.4 diesel single rears
Truck mods include:
12k Warn winch
Goodyear 275/70/17 DuraTrac tires which I am very pleased with, they grip and handle well and are relatively quiet.
Air-lift rear suspension with onboard compressor normal driving @ 55-60 psi
Rancho 9000 rear shocks set to 9 with the camper
80 amp TC charging circuit with relay
High idle-charging mod to the Ford ECM
Torq-lift hold downs
After 3000 miles and some very high winds in NV (395 was closed to trucks and RVs because of them) I am very pleased with all of the handling mods. I am not planning anything additional but each one made an incrementally noticeable difference. We normally cruise @ 65mph and are getting 11.5-12.5 mpg.

The camper: 07 Bigfoot 25¬_9.6c
This is my first camper so I did not know what to expect, it is in virtually new condition and has seen very little use. After we got her home I spent a couple of days just opening things up to take a look at details, build quality etc. and what could be done to improve the overall thermal efficiency. My impressions of the build quality were quite good but I was somewhat disappointed when it came to the engineering details. I had read in this forum about some other Bigfoot owners mentioning leaving all the cupboard doors open so the pipes wouldn’t freeze, why was this? And so the journey began.
The biggest standout was the propane and battery lockers in the rear passenger side corner, they seem to be made from vacuum formed polyethylene and impinge from the exterior into the under sink area of the galley. They were completely un-insulated, approx. 12sq ft. of un-insulated wall. To rectify this situation it required removing the sink and all the liner panels to be able to add 2inch PU foam to the sides and top of the propane locker, this also necessitated re-plumbing the under-sink drain pipes for additional clearance. The same treatment for the battery locker was not possible due to other clearances so I elected to swap the batteries (2) for group 31 AGMs ( no outgassing) for a total of 230 amp hours and by making a foam plug for the outside of the battery box, this mod in practice brought them inside of the heated space which also improved their charge capacity at cold temps. 2” foam plugs were made for all the other openings where possible and I removed the exterior shower and made a plug for that recess also. This camper has a basement which houses the tanks and has a nice long storage space where I can fit 5 pairs of skis. I next removed all the screws holding the camper bottom panels on in order to expose the tanks. When I removed the panels there was only a very thin piece of Styrofoam loosely placed in the cavity lending it no insulating value whatsoever. Since all three tanks are suspended from the subfloor above it allowed me to tightly fit 2.5” PU foam under the tanks and also shorten the heating ducts that were bottomed out on the lower panels.
In addition to the above described insulation work I had noticed when we picked the camper up from the previous owner and loaded it onto the F350 a substantial amount of room between the bed and the camper. I chose to add between 1.5-2” of additional foam to the outside basement area and held it in place with 3” Gorilla tape up to the height of the bed wall and the underside of the wings/shelf (this is meant for temporary winter use only and I will remove it in the spring). When loading the camper I cut purple extruded styrene foam 1” thick on the truck bed and set the camper on top for insulation and anti slip properties in lieu of either plywood or rubber pad. The compression strength seems to be about 10psi which equates to 48x96=4608x10lbs=46080lbs. After 3k miles there are a few slightly compressed areas and impressions from screw heads etc.
I also swapped all the bulbs for LED, added a dedicated charging circuit with a dash board switch to turn it off if the starting batteries where low. A dual zone digital thermometer with an attached probe that was routed into the basement area, a digital battery voltage meter, LED TV, bracket for a Dish Network Tailgater antenna, etc. rounded out the camper mods.
Performance: With the 2 fully charged AGM batteries (voltage about 13.08v) we were able to stay parked and run the heater 24hrs/day set at around 50 degrees while we were out or sleeping and 72-75 degrees when we were lounging, eating etc. for just about 72hrs. (3 days) which I am very pleased with.
Propane usage for heat, hot water and fridge is between ¾ and 2/3 gal. per day so with the two 5 gal. tanks we can make it for just about 10 days with a little reserve. When inside the cabin stays a relatively constant 55 and the basement 10-15 degrees cooler. I never noticed any temps in the basement below 41-42.
The charging system works really well and if needed I can start the truck and put it in Battery Charge Mode and the ECM monitors charging and adjusts rpm accordingly but for this trip normal driving has been sufficient for all of our needs.

All in all we are very pleased the way the rig is performing in the low single digits and on the road. The one item that seams to be failing is the Gorilla tape it doesn't seems to like the cold too much....if anyone know of something better. Not a complete failure but the edges are peeling an 1/8 to 1/4" of so.

None of these mods were engineered so please do not take these as recommendations this is just a users report, please do your own research.

mijab
08 F350
67 CJ5
08 Opel 1.3cdti....75hp of turbo diesel POWER! (Mongol Rally 2012)
08 Defender 110
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0226.jpg
    IMG_0226.jpg
    509.2 KB · Views: 281

incognito

Adventurer
nice setup


I have a 2003 Bigfoot 1500 Fs .
modifications I,ve done and I'm pleased were 2 solar panels 150 and 100 watts. also a provista mppt controller . Brought everything at sawtechology.com. ( around 1$ per watts and 180 $ for the very good controller). this could keep batteries up 100%. even an 150 watts can work great depending of you batteries AH and Ah use. solar is very nice when bondooking.
a Canadian tire motomaster 600watts 12v converter for charging the laptop, 380watts 1 cup coffee maker( 11$ Wal-Mart).
put 2 sheets of aluminium bubble insulation on the 26x26 excape hatch, under the hatch net I,ve put a 26x26 2 inch foam.
also 2 inch foam( from an old cushion I had) after the 30 A cable door. on my Bigfoot that door is only 1/8 cheep plastic which opens to the cable and grey tank . so pushed the foam after the door to prevent cold air from going in same for the rear tank valves door.
Other mods which can be done easy: another 4x8 sheet foam 1 inch under the mattress. 0.3 Amps 12v computer fan one to create a better push of warm air circulation into the basement/tank area.
Other mods I've done is to take out the aluminium ladder( useless) , because one day I've found on the roof a teenager..... now only I can get on the roof through the escape hatch.
Magellan gps with wireless rear view camera.
in the middle of the ancient ladder place I've put a box for my 2 6v 230 AH batteries .like this I have another big compartment for storage in he camper.
also it seem that 3m window insulating kit work pretty nice.

http://solutions.3mcanada.ca/wps/portal/3M/en_CA/WindowInsulatorKits/Products/ any window which is not double pane

http://www.sawtechnology.com/

http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/
if Florida this December had some crappy weather. 9 celcius outside. wake up in the morning and it was 19.9 celcius inside 2 adults 2 kids heat didn,t worked a single time.biggest problem is humidity condensation inside when all windows are closed.
hope this helps
incognito
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5711.JPG
    IMG_5711.JPG
    61.8 KB · Views: 201
  • IMG_5746.JPG
    IMG_5746.JPG
    111.8 KB · Views: 205
  • IMG_0715.jpg
    IMG_0715.jpg
    257.9 KB · Views: 212
  • IMG_0696.jpg
    IMG_0696.jpg
    403.7 KB · Views: 226
Last edited:

mijab_au

New member
I did not tear into our camper like you have but that is the same type of precision (sarcasm) fit for the insulation I found when I opened bottom panels to expose the tanks :(
 

java

Expedition Leader
Did you do any coverings on the windows? I used reflectix and it makes a big difference. The condensation ends up frozen on the window in the morning.

Id 2nd the solar, I like my panels, but the controller sucks. Doesn't get the voltage high enough before it cuts charging. But it does fill them to 12.5 after a day of skiing. I have two of the 100 watt Renogy panels (amazon)


Heres my ski bum rig! We dont do the water in the winter which Im a little jealous of.
i1r5.jpg
 

incognito

Adventurer
a good controller has temperature sensor . regulates higher when is colder, saw mine at 15V on very cold days, even if it's set at 14.8V.
found some 12v mini-dehumidifiers 36 watts on ebay, those should do the trick when camping in winter with windows closed. high humidity is really bad and goes everywhere mattress, clothes , wood,etc. breathing , heating with propane creates humidity.
blocking windows with insulating materials can keep the camper warmer. condensation on windows is more evident since are a lot colder in winter. but the fact is at that moment humidity is everywhere inside.
incognito
 
Last edited:

garybo

Adventurer
Hi Mijab au,
I've rarely enjoyed a note as much as yours. You showed curiosity and willingness to much improve the cold problem in all trailers and campers. Thanks for showing the way. I'm going to take out my outside "shower" and faucet, insulate the truck bed and sides and bays of our camper as you did.
I did search out some info on insulation that surprised me but probably not many others on this site. I can't comment scientifically on things so ask others who are knowledgeable.
I use the R factor as an insulation guide with a good house having a roof/attic R of 40 for example. This of course will never apply to a thin walled RV, but is food for comparison. Manufacturers tout their "Four Season Camper" "certification" or some similar wording. None of them live up to this hype, but it sells rigs. To take an camper skiing without first doing what Mijab did would, I think, require huge propane tanks and many batteries.
I'm going to summarize what I've found out so one may use it to compare the hype.
The R factor is for a ONE INCH thickness of a material. The mfg can say they use an R-4 material in a wall but in reality only use one-half inch of it, so the wall is only R-2. Then consider what areas of the build, the roof, for example might have duct work that has the roof material on top, then the cold air containing duct, then the ceiling, ie, no insulation. Other parts of the rig have other items that don't include insulation like thin bay doors, windows, etc, all worsening the cold inside. They would quote the R around the duct work and not include the duct work area.
Let me run through the R of items so you can start to see the hype. Remember these are for ONE INCH, except for the glass for which the typical thickness glass is noted.
air = 1
glass = 0.14
dual pane glass = 2
wood = 1
plywood = 1.25
gel coat/ fiberglass = 2-3
Reflectix/Astrofoil = 4 (for one inch; Reflectix is 80% as effective as more expensive Astrofoil; the 1/8" material really has no insulating properties, more a heat/cold reflection item)
Thinsulate = 5 (don't know any clothes one inch thick)
fiberglass batt "Pink Panther" = 3.5

the following items are "foam block", "solid block", ie, foam block is not all equal:
expanded polystyrene "bead board" = 4
extruded polystyrene, blue Styrofoam (Dow) = 5 (only made in 1" thickness)
polyisocyanurate "polyiso" = 6.5, foil backed = 7.2, sprayed = 4-8
polyurethane = 7 (sheet), 6 for injected

Now for the latest subject- composites. These are a synthetic core material, usually with a bonded "skin" on each side. I thought they were super insulators- not. They are good structural materials, think boat. Thought they were super light weight- Haulmark pop up mfg will make a camper from Coosa, a composite. The whole camper weighs 50 lbs less than the usual construction, so not a great weight saver. These materials are strong, don't rot, and other advantages, but their R factor is 4! What a surprise to me. Names of composites you might see are Nidacore, Coosa, Corecell, Divinycell, Transonite. The Divinycell is a poured into a mold composite like a boat and the XP camper. But remember the R = 4, same as bead board and about half that of polyurethane.

So, how cold is your rig and why? The typical product is an outer gel coat, then fiberglass mat, then a foam block of one inch, then some plywood, and a final inner veneer. Not much insulation value there. The touted "warmer" Bigfoot has 1.5" of foam block- not much over customary. Filon board is about the same. One mfg, New Horizons, in Kansas puts 1.5" foam block over the ceiling ductwork and another 1.5" foam block under the ducts and foam block along side of the ducts. The walls are also thicker than average. But then, they only do custom work. The Oliver pull trailer company makes a double fiberglass shell, essentially and egg within an egg, one independent of the other with a 1" air gap and thinsulate between the eggs. Innovative, unique and strong. Don't know about the R factor, perhaps you could make a guess?

Mijab did a LOT of excellent work to warm up his rig, adding R 4-8 (1-2")in important areas. Congratulations and thanks for enlightening the rest of us. This is what it takes to go skiing and have a warm rig.
 

biggoolies

Adventurer
This winter on the ski hill with my bigfoot trailer, although I have a 4 season package, I decided to winterize my trailer and turn the heat on only when I am in there. When I slept I had warm blankets, warm socks and a warm toque on. I don't like the furnace coming on in the night to wake me. I may go for a better catalytic heater and keep a crack in the window when it is running. But I am quite fine without the heat. I have a 5 galllon container for water and I use that to flush the toilet and my water for drinking and dish washing that I heat up on the stove. You can fill your black and gray tanks with salt to prevent freezing and there is a formula online how much salt you need for the amount of fluid and temperature. It all worked well. Not as nice as having running water but I did not worry about freezing the lines and my propane lasts much longer. The wake up time I turn on the furnace and my little catalytic heater and I am good for breakfast.
 

garybo

Adventurer
Mijab,
Can you tell me more specifics about:
80 amp TC charging circuit with relay- mfg? I've looked at www.sterling-power-usa.com A2B charger.
High idle-charging mod to the Ford ECM- procedure?

Also, if you glued/fixed the added foam block to the inside areas, what adhesive did you use? Some seem to melt the foam. Did you try to "fix" foam to the inside of the bay doors instead of putting in a "plug"?

What sealant did you use to put back the lower camper fiberglass panels? putty tape? caulk/sealant?

If your Gorilla tape is peeling, have you found something better? I know you want the foam to be removable for hot weather.

Thanks for actually measuring the temps in the basement.
Gary
 

LovinPSDs

Adventurer
Anyone using Webasto diesel heaters in conjunction with the truck?

I've had a weird idea in my head about using a webasto coolant heater and plumb it to radiant heat the camper and keep the truck ready to start in super cool temps. No clue if it would work but always thought it would be a cool idea. Could replace the stock tank with a 51 gallon titan tank too.
 

mijab_au

New member
Hi Gary,
Sorry for the delayed response, we have been traveling and I have not checked EP in a while. I followed the directions here:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q162R1.pdf
(sorry link function doesn't seem to be working) and used this battery isolator:
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-PAC-80-80...d=1403875059&sr=8-2&keywords=80+amp+12v+relay. 4 gauge wire a couple of switches and this connector to the Bigfoot:
http://www.easternmarine.com/zinc-die-cast-dual-pole-socket-15-326
http://www.easternmarine.com/zinc-die-cast-liftgate-charging-plug-15-336-0

Follow the upfitter directions but I essentially used one switch to turn the relay (battery isolator) on and the second switch to enable the Ford high idle charging. 4 Gauge wire from the truck bat. to the relay then to the plug which I mounted in the bed of the truck and a 4 ga. ground wire to the frame. Camper wiring was straight from the plug to the batteries with the 4ga positive and neg. wires. My truck has a stock 200amp alt.

In regards to the insulation I did not glue much in. The basement area of the Bigfoot after I took the bottom plastic sheets off had a nice wood frame that had been fiber glassed over so I just cut 2" foil faced PU foam board from Home Depot (R10 I think) and fit it nice and tight into the frame with a few pieces of tape here and there, then replaced the bottom sheets and that was it. For all the other access areas like the battery box (I switched to AGM so no outgassing) I did the same snug fit with a little tape along the edges so everything is removable. Where I did glue foam panels was for example the outside of the propane box under the sink. I took the sink and interior cabinet panels out to get access to the propane box. Where I did glue I used polyurethane glue/sealant plus 3" wide Gorilla tape and I also insulated about 3-4' of the copper propane tubes with pipe insulation. Note that I did have to reset the sink P trap and raise it by 2" since it was directly on the propane box.
It all took some effort but a hot shower after skiing all day makes it all worth it.
 

uriedog

metal melter
I am also in the process of getting a Bigfoot Winter ready. I have so far completely gutted mine, and am now in the process of adding insulation. Then I will start to re panel it. I will have pics up soon.

I would really like to see more pics of your camper for some ideas on use of space. Can't really figure out how to configure the table? There was not one in mine when I got it
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,782
Messages
2,878,177
Members
225,329
Latest member
FranklinDufresne
Top