as far as locks getting corroded, i believe* the a little shot of the powdered graphite frees them right up. just go into a locksmith shop and ask, im sure they can steer you in the right direction. its been many many years since i had a messed up lock where i couldn't get the key to turn. but i believe it was the graphite that i used. never ever any liquid is what i was told, cuz its just like a gun, oil attracts dirt and crap. the graphite is very very fine and slippery. ask a locksmith they would defiantly know. and for my pin, looks like what V man has would do just fine. something with a nice good cap over the key hole, something durable.
Rear Tow Points on a Tacoma
- Thread starter TacoCreedmoor
- Start date
I've had a couple of locking pins similar to the ones pictured above and they got corroded really bad and I couldn't get them open. A couple of hits with a regular claw hammer snapped the keyed end right off as it's a lot narrower than the main part of the shaft. I had another one that wouldn't break and had to be cut off so it depends on how strong the metal is and how it's built. They will keep an honest man honest, but a determined thief will just be slowed down a bit.
robert
Expedition Leader
I've heard that about the similar keys, but since most thefts are crimes of opportunity and hitches really aren't that expensive, I can't imagine many thieves taking the time to try a random lock. The only exception would be if you had a trailer with say four wheelers on it since they are popular targets for thieves; the county I used to work for actually had a guy try to steel one of our four wheelers that way while it was parked in a Wal-Mart parking lot (go figure). Bystanders saw the guy doing it and called the cops so he got a few years in jail for that felony. Ironically, the Medic was in the Wal-Mart to buy a locking pin for the receiver.
As for the rusting issues, I just spray a little lube in the lock on mine whenever I wash the truck; we don't really have road salt in the south though. In the rust belt I would either remove the hitch/shackle altogether when not in use or coat it in grease so it wouldn't get rusted in place inside the receiver.
There was at least one study published a while back about how leaving the hitch in the receiver was actually worse for the driver in a rear end collision since more energy was transmitted to the frame and thus to the driver. Obviously if you have a real bumper it's not going to crumple like a factory design so the point would be moot.
I will say that on my old '95 Tacoma I had tow hooks mounted to the rear frame; I mounted them before the issues with those frames were known. I don't recall ever using them though, since I had a receiver mounted shackle.
As for the rusting issues, I just spray a little lube in the lock on mine whenever I wash the truck; we don't really have road salt in the south though. In the rust belt I would either remove the hitch/shackle altogether when not in use or coat it in grease so it wouldn't get rusted in place inside the receiver.
There was at least one study published a while back about how leaving the hitch in the receiver was actually worse for the driver in a rear end collision since more energy was transmitted to the frame and thus to the driver. Obviously if you have a real bumper it's not going to crumple like a factory design so the point would be moot.
I will say that on my old '95 Tacoma I had tow hooks mounted to the rear frame; I mounted them before the issues with those frames were known. I don't recall ever using them though, since I had a receiver mounted shackle.
MtnClimber
Ready To Explore!
The recommended method is to insert the loop end of a recovery strap into the square receiver and then put the hitch pin through the loop and secure it. That's a pretty safe, double-shear connection. I think it's even better than using one of the recovery hooks that goes into the receiver (you don't have to worry about the strap coming off the hook), and you don't have to buy or carry anything special, assuming you already have a pin.
^^ THIS... With a proper snatch strap that has elasticity features will be just fine on your factory hitch.
Box Rocket
Well-known member
I have used the strap in the receiver method in the past and it works, however I can tell you that the edges of the receiver will cut into the strap if it's not a straight pull. That has the possibility of rendering the strap dramatically weaker, if not completely useless.
The receiver mounted shackles are a better way to go IMO. As far as a tow hitch being up to the harsh impact of a snatch recovery, it will be fine. You must remember it is using (usually) the same mounting points as an aftermarket bumper so it will be equally as strong.
The rear frame on a Tacoma is a bit weak for a single attachment point on each side. The rear of the frame is not boxed and the C channel can easily bend during a hard recovery. That's another reason a hitch or bumper is a better location for a recovery point because the load of the recovery is spread across both sides of the frame. If you are set on single recovery points on each side of the frame, do yourself a favor and box the frame.
I have gone to strictly receiver mounted DRings on the front and rear of my Tacoma. The Trail Gear front bumper I have has a receiver built into it and I have a receiver shackle there.
I have the same kind in the receiver on my custom rear bumper. But I misplaced one of them once and was in a pinch and used a regular drop hitch with the shackle in the hole. Not ideal but it works just as well as there is no sharp edges to cut into the strap. The only downside to this method is that the shackle sticks out a bit farther decreasing departure angle, and that the cross pin in the shackle has a narrower contact point in the hitch which could possibly bend the cross pin although I've never seen that happen even during hard snatches. It is after all about as wide as most aftermarket bumper recovery points for a shackle.
The receiver mounted shackles are a better way to go IMO. As far as a tow hitch being up to the harsh impact of a snatch recovery, it will be fine. You must remember it is using (usually) the same mounting points as an aftermarket bumper so it will be equally as strong.
The rear frame on a Tacoma is a bit weak for a single attachment point on each side. The rear of the frame is not boxed and the C channel can easily bend during a hard recovery. That's another reason a hitch or bumper is a better location for a recovery point because the load of the recovery is spread across both sides of the frame. If you are set on single recovery points on each side of the frame, do yourself a favor and box the frame.
I have gone to strictly receiver mounted DRings on the front and rear of my Tacoma. The Trail Gear front bumper I have has a receiver built into it and I have a receiver shackle there.
I have the same kind in the receiver on my custom rear bumper. But I misplaced one of them once and was in a pinch and used a regular drop hitch with the shackle in the hole. Not ideal but it works just as well as there is no sharp edges to cut into the strap. The only downside to this method is that the shackle sticks out a bit farther decreasing departure angle, and that the cross pin in the shackle has a narrower contact point in the hitch which could possibly bend the cross pin although I've never seen that happen even during hard snatches. It is after all about as wide as most aftermarket bumper recovery points for a shackle.
"As far as a tow hitch being up to the harsh impact of a snatch recovery, it will be fine."
I certainly agree.
Side note regarding the receiver shackles: I see a few versions that are cross drilled to accept the hitch pin 90* from typical.
Who feels this is a worthy feature for re-aligning off-center pulls/anchoring, or is it weakening the block more than necesary?
I certainly agree.
Side note regarding the receiver shackles: I see a few versions that are cross drilled to accept the hitch pin 90* from typical.
Who feels this is a worthy feature for re-aligning off-center pulls/anchoring, or is it weakening the block more than necesary?
As long as there is more than 5/8" of material around the hole, the steel block will not be the weak point, but rather the 5/8" steel pin would be. Or your 5/16" wire rope if you're winching on it.
In other words, if I were buying one, I would get the double drilled one for versatility and not worry about strength of the steel block.
Mrknowitall
Adventurer
I've put an anchor clevis on all sorts of safety chain loops, and never had a problem- even when hammering loose one full-size truck with another. My favorite method, short of having a 3/4" clevis mount, is to insert the threaded side of a 5/8" shackle into the receiver and then screw the pin through the hole. Of course, no matter where you hook, always use your own best judgement whenever kinetic recovery is the method.
Had that happen on a single recovery- cut the loop more than 50%- junk after that (still use it to pull out shrubs and such, but never vehicles.
Clutch
<---Pass
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Another option is a proper 5/8" grade 8 bolt, just make sure to get one long enough that it's uncut shoulder in shear against the receiver hitch. This also solves to some extent the issue of someone stealing your shackle adapter since most people do not have handy 15/16" spanners. I trust the grading of a bolt more than an unknown hitch pin, even from known sources. I like to see the ticks on the bolt head and the reassuring gold color.