Please, need help setting up a solar system with batteries and inverter, etc.

[65BAJA]

I'm in the process of setting up a similar system for my Cherokee. I have two 160W panels and a 320W MPPT charge controller feeding two 75AH 12V batteries. How would the diagram change for me?

Currently the only thing that will be hooked up all the time is a 40qt ARB fridge. I also plan on running my HF radio off the batteries. I would like to wire it so it will charge the starter battery when the motor is off or so the alternator will charge the house batteries when I'm driving.

Maybe I should start my own thread for this question? I posted here because it is very similar to what I'm doing.

 

[DiploStrat]

I would like to wire it so it will charge the starter battery when the motor is off or so the alternator will charge the house batteries when I'm driving.

Shoot me an e-mail and I will send you a document that describes one easy way to do this.

 

[hitek79]

Based on what DiploStrat said, the part on our diagrams that shows the ground between shunt and the fuse block is INCORRECT. Like I said, I wasn't sure about that.

In light of this the ground to the frame (or direct line to the front battery) should run from the ground post of the Aux bank (same post that's going to the shunt).


View attachment 215634

2 questions regarding this diagram.

First, does the shunt have to be attached to frame in any manner like a normal grounding?

Second, why in these diagrams is the solar power coming in from the solar controller, and running thru the little breaker box?

 

[hitek79]

Just reread the whole post again. Neg off battery > Frame > Shunt.

Next question would be is the shunt need to be 100% protected from the weather?

 

[DiploStrat]

My post may not have been clear. There must be no path to the negative terminal of the camper/house battery that does not go through the shunt. Thus the order is:

Negative terminal<Shunt<Loads. As most people use the frame as a negative bus, that translates to: Negative Terminal<Shunt<Frame.

Your battery monitor reads the current across the shunt, if any current can bypass the shut, you will get an less accurate reading.

Hope this is clearer.

 

[4RunAmok]

Second, why in these diagrams is the solar power coming in from the solar controller, and running thru the little breaker box?

Diplo answered your first question.

The fuse block is an easy way to get the solar power into the system, and it SHOULD be fused. If I'm running 7 amps of solar, I'm going to put a 10 amp fuse there. The fuse block should be connected directly to the battery, either without a breaker if the run is short and protected enough, or through a breaker (I always run a breaker within a few inches from the battery for each fuse block so the line is protected, and so I can shut off that line to work on it), so it's just a quick easy attachment method.

Further, I HATE when there are more attachments at the battery post than there truly needs to be. It makes working with the battery more difficult, either to replace it, or removing it for whatever reason.

 

[hitek79]

Ok, thanks. I'm going to be running 40-60 amps of solar, so I'm assuming that the little breaker won't work for me at that point.

 

[4RunAmok]

40 to 60 AMPS of solar? Or 40 to 60 WATTS?

If it is Amps, holy cow, how much roof space does THAT take?

If it's Watts, to get a slight over-estimate, WATTS divided by VOLTS in your system = AMPS. 60 Watts divided by 12 Volts = 5 Amps. So you'd want a 7.5 amp or 10 amp fuse.

As for the breaker, you can get Cooper Bussman breakers up to 150 Amps at the local auto parts store (or at powerwerx.com), powerful enough to start a vehicle through. If I'm running a Blue Sea fuse block, which are max rated at 75 amp buss load, then I am going to put a 75 Amp breaker at the battery on the line that feeds that fuse block.

 

[hitek79]

40 to 60 AMPS of solar? Or 40 to 60 WATTS?

If it is Amps, holy cow, how much roof space does THAT take?

If it's Watts, to get a slight over-estimate, WATTS divided by VOLTS in your system = AMPS. 60 Watts divided by 12 Volts = 5 Amps. So you'd want a 7.5 amp or 10 amp fuse.

As for the breaker, you can get Cooper Bussman breakers up to 150 Amps at the local auto parts store (or at powerwerx.com), powerful enough to start a vehicle through. If I'm running a Blue Sea fuse block, which are max rated at 75 amp buss load, then I am going to put a 75 Amp breaker at the battery on the line that feeds that fuse block.

My panels are approx 6 amps each, and I have 6 now, but might add 2 more later. I have a lot of roof space

 

[k9lestat]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EyxWu2RVQYo

Check out missouri wind and solar on you tube also.

Sent from my QMV7A using Tapatalk

 

[unseenone]

That's awesome.... nice..

 

[4x4kayaker]

I installed 2 solar panels on my Sunrader up front above the over cab bed. I use a blue sea acr dual battery charger with a remote switch on my dash! I also used a sun saver duo solar charge controller to monitor solar on both my batteries. I plan to add a separate battery someday and will wire it directly to the solar controller. Two batteries up by engine, solar controller in closet.

 

[magentawave]

Are the two batteries in the engine compartment consist of two house batteries plus the starter battery, or one house battery plus the starter battery? How many watts are your panels?

I installed 2 solar panels on my Sunrader up front above the over cab bed. I use a blue sea acr dual battery charger with a remote switch on my dash! I also used a sun saver duo solar charge controller to monitor solar on both my batteries. I plan to add a separate battery someday and will wire it directly to the solar controller. Two batteries up by engine, solar controller in closet.

 

[4x4kayaker]

1 house battery and one starter battery both under hood in engine bay. I'll add a third in rear someday solely for electronics. X2 solar panels. Each panel is 100w. 200w total