Belafonte Reboot....Ambulance to 4x4 Camper Conversion

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Tore into the TPS (fipl) today and I have to say, If I'd had any 1990s era Ford powertrain engineer on hand this afternoon I'd have whacked him right up side the head with a hammer. One simple little sensor that according to Ford should be replaced every 50K or so, and they make it so you can't service the dang thing unless you've got arms like an octopus, and just as many to boot. AND they mount the thing with one of the most useless fasteners every devised by man. I hate torx or whatever they call those stupid things.

Dog house has to come off. Ok, but it also means I have to stuff that stupid farqin switch panel up on the dash and hope it stays there instead of falling and bashing me on the head periodically.

Plastic ram air intake thingy needs to come out. Air filter and the housing has to come out. Should be able to get a torx bit on there now. Nope, not a chance with the fuel filter in the way. Ok, should be able to spin the filter off. Nope, not a chance. Get a filter wrench on there? Not any filter wrench I've ever owned. Strap wrench? Sure, I can get it on there but no room to turn it. Maybe if I unbolt the fuel filter mounting bracket I can wiggle it out of the way? Fat chance. Unbolt it and take a wrench to the two hard lines attached and try to stuff it up in a corner some place because the electrical connections don't look too interested in coming off.

Finally. I can actually touch the stupid thing with a chance to get a socket on there to get the sensor loose. Hah. HAH! No way those torx screws are coming out. They'd rather just strip out. Last option is to undo the whole stupid bracket with the sensor attached, and THEN take a torch to the screws. I actually managed to get them out, but torched the sensor in the process.

I put a new sensor on and got it bolted back up and went through the electrical gymnastics necessary to get the voltage readings you're supposed to have. Or as close as I'm going to get them. Once this goes back together there is no way in H E Double Hockey Sticks I'm pulling it back apart to "tweak" those readings like all the internet experts say you should do.

It might be easy enough on a truck to loosen and get at that sensor to adjust it, but I'll be damned if I'm going to pull the fuel filter each time I need to "tweak" this thing. Unless the tranny is just wayyy out in left field this is it.

I haven't been so PO'd in a longgg time working on a vehicle, just to do something so simple.

Automotive engineers should be forced to adhere to aerospace principles when designing their crap. When I was in the service and worked on fighters those things were an absolute marvel of stuffing 50 lbs of crap in a 10 lb bucket, and there was NOTHING I ever needed to service that required me to jump through such ridiculous hoops. You could R&R an entire freakin engine in less than 2 hours.

Anyway, rant pretty much over. I will button it up enough tomorrow to take it for a test spin, and hopefully my shifting funkiness is history. If it isn't I at least have the satisfaction of knowing that of the sensors involved in its operation, this one was the most pain in the ******** (I hope!) and out of the way.

I suppose I could take a pic or two while I'm at it. Not much to see except the top of the engine tore apart, but hey, we likes us some pictures 'round here. :)
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
085CE9FF-DF08-4FB5-AA6A-B52FC71EEDD2_zpssr6e23jc.jpg


Hey Tom, can I have your old tires and wheels when you get your new ones on there? You have a lot more tread on those and they'll look good on mine. :)

BTW, I haven't forgotten about the front console for you, I have just been extremely busy getting the tongue on mine. And since you're required to have brakes on any trailer over 3,000 lbs. in Florida, I've decided to swap out the Ford Dana 60 rear axle for a brand new 10,000 lb. trailer axle complete with electric brakes. This is an expense I hadn't planned on, but it's not much more than trying to build an electric over hydraulic braking system using the worn out existing ford brakes, plus I'll get rid of a bunch of weight.
 

frig84

Observer
Tore into the TPS (fipl) today and I have to say, If I'd had any 1990s era Ford powertrain engineer on hand this afternoon I'd have whacked him right up side the head with a hammer. One simple little sensor that according to Ford should be replaced every 50K or so, and they make it so you can't service the dang thing unless you've got arms like an octopus, and just as many to boot. AND they mount the thing with one of the most useless fasteners every devised by man. I hate torx or whatever they call those stupid things.

Dog house has to come off. Ok, but it also means I have to stuff that stupid farqin switch panel up on the dash and hope it stays there instead of falling and bashing me on the head periodically.

Plastic ram air intake thingy needs to come out. Air filter and the housing has to come out. Should be able to get a torx bit on there now. Nope, not a chance with the fuel filter in the way. Ok, should be able to spin the filter off. Nope, not a chance. Get a filter wrench on there? Not any filter wrench I've ever owned. Strap wrench? Sure, I can get it on there but no room to turn it. Maybe if I unbolt the fuel filter mounting bracket I can wiggle it out of the way? Fat chance. Unbolt it and take a wrench to the two hard lines attached and try to stuff it up in a corner some place because the electrical connections don't look too interested in coming off.

Finally. I can actually touch the stupid thing with a chance to get a socket on there to get the sensor loose. Hah. HAH! No way those torx screws are coming out. They'd rather just strip out. Last option is to undo the whole stupid bracket with the sensor attached, and THEN take a torch to the screws. I actually managed to get them out, but torched the sensor in the process.

I put a new sensor on and got it bolted back up and went through the electrical gymnastics necessary to get the voltage readings you're supposed to have. Or as close as I'm going to get them. Once this goes back together there is no way in H E Double Hockey Sticks I'm pulling it back apart to "tweak" those readings like all the internet experts say you should do.

It might be easy enough on a truck to loosen and get at that sensor to adjust it, but I'll be damned if I'm going to pull the fuel filter each time I need to "tweak" this thing. Unless the tranny is just wayyy out in left field this is it.

I haven't been so PO'd in a longgg time working on a vehicle, just to do something so simple.

Automotive engineers should be forced to adhere to aerospace principles when designing their crap. When I was in the service and worked on fighters those things were an absolute marvel of stuffing 50 lbs of crap in a 10 lb bucket, and there was NOTHING I ever needed to service that required me to jump through such ridiculous hoops. You could R&R an entire freakin engine in less than 2 hours.

Anyway, rant pretty much over. I will button it up enough tomorrow to take it for a test spin, and hopefully my shifting funkiness is history. If it isn't I at least have the satisfaction of knowing that of the sensors involved in its operation, this one was the most pain in the ******** (I hope!) and out of the way.

I suppose I could take a pic or two while I'm at it. Not much to see except the top of the engine tore apart, but hey, we likes us some pictures 'round here. :)
That sounds like me on an average day. I can sympathize with you. I am a deisel tech at a Ford dealer here in Jacksonville. I had an opportunity to ask,"why in God's name they would put some of the parts where they do." His response, "we design them to be put together." He was referring to at the assembly plant, there the body is not in the way.
 

frig84

Observer
Also the IDI engines had issues with cam sensors as well. The only symptoms were odd shift points and the tach would act up.
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Also the IDI engines had issues with cam sensors as well. The only symptoms were odd shift points and the tach would act up.

Shift points weren't really odd, the shifting was just getting..funky. Started off as what I beleive was the torque converter locking/unlocking erraticaly. Slow steady worsening till it seemed like it had a sudden jump in funkiness wehre it would also start downshifting at odd points, etc. Like it couldn't decide what gear it should be in.Anyway, no idea when this sensor was changed so even if it was currently working all that crap had to be pulled just so I stand a chance of even adjusting it, so I figured replace it. At least that way I know it's good and have a reasonable expectation that it won't fail next week.

Patoz: No worries. It's not at the top of the list anyway. Need to get the conversion done first, then finish up the details of inside the box, and then amybe give it some thought. I wish to <favorite deity> my freakin springs would show up. I don't want to start really rippin on the front end till they are in hand.
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Put everything back together and now the sumana bastidge wont start. It fire for about 3 seconds, which I'm guessing was whatever was in the line, and then died. ?? Now she just cranks and cranks. I pulled the inlet line off the filter and there's fuel and ditto on the outlet, so there is fuel to and through the filter. The wires to the fuel injection pump seemed a bit wiggly, but I've never had starting issues. Two connectors mounted on top, fore and aft, which I assume shut off the fuel flow to the pump when you turn off the key. No voltage with the key off, 12 volts at each when the key is in the run position.

I suppose there may have been a bad connection here when I was trying to start, but now I'm waiting on a charge. By the time I was done dinkin arround the batts were gone, so right now I'm just killing time and looking for other possible causes.

I'm all ears.
 

flightcancled

Explorer
Terrorists?

Is it cranking at full speed?

Stupid question, but it's been getting really cold at night here- were you not cycling the glow plugs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

frig84

Observer
You can try filling the fuel filter transmission fluid to prime the system. It sounds like may have gotten air in the high pressure fuel system. If that doesn't help, the next would be to open each line at the injector, while briefly spinning it over. The last resort would be a small amount of break parts cleaner instead of ether. We have found it is easier on the engine. You will want to disconnect the glow plug timer first, other wise you could have a backfire.
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Terrorists?

Is it cranking at full speed?

Stupid question, but it's been getting really cold at night here- were you not cycling the glow plugs?

I'm going with terrorists. Gremlin diesel terrorists. :)


It's all good now. I pulled the connectors off the injection pump, gave everything a scrape, and put them back on. Had a nice solid clunk whenturning the key on so I gave a go and she fired up. Been golden since.

Shifting funkiness seems to be totally gone now, though it does shift like the clutches are made of playdough. From what I've read that's just the way it is for the factory E4OD. S'ok. That rebuilt unit coming should take care of that mushiness..



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

rlrenz

Explorer
Congratulations on your success!

When something goes sour, we all tend to assume the worst, and often it's just a 10 cent fix. Just (here it comes...) my 10 cents worth.
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Congratulations on your success!

When something goes sour, we all tend to assume the worst, and often it's just a 10 cent fix. Just (here it comes...) my 10 cents worth.


To be honest I was fairly certain it was the tps, I just didnt expect it to be such a ridiculous beeyotch to get to. I mean it is deceptively visible, like RIGHT THERE, but you can't do anything with the dang thing till you pull that other crap.

It couldn't be the tach sensor. You know, the part that's right in friggin front of the motor just begging to be serviced. NOOOooooo, it's gotta be the one under the air cleaner, tucked up right next to the fuel filter that's in the way, that you can't remove unless you pull the lines, and unbolt its mount, and pull its wires, and and and. Grrr. :)
 

rlrenz

Explorer
When I modified one of my ambulance compartments, I found that even my long arms weren't long enough, plus I could see what I had to reach, except when I was reaching for it. An ambulance electrician friend told me that his normal Phillips bit is 12" long for that reason.

Don't cha just love something where repair was the farthest thought anyone had? I can remember replacing a car's blower many years ago where the only access to a finished car was to cut a hole in the duct under the hood - the new blower even came with an "official" repair patch.
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
When I modified one of my ambulance compartments, I found that even my long arms weren't long enough, plus I could see what I had to reach, except when I was reaching for it. An ambulance electrician friend told me that his normal Phillips bit is 12" long for that reason.

Don't cha just love something where repair was the farthest thought anyone had? I can remember replacing a car's blower many years ago where the only access to a finished car was to cut a hole in the duct under the hood - the new blower even came with an "official" repair patch.

Unfortunately today it's even worse. Assembly is King and the auto mfgrs dont give two craps about what it takes to service or repair something. These days their idea of easily serviced is to be able to "conveniently" pull the freakin cab off the frame.

My first Ford 4x4 I could climb up in the engine bay, sit on the inner fender, and put my feet on the frame while I worked on the engine. And the hood kept the rain off! Ahhh, those were the days. :)
 

frig84

Observer
Glad to here you chased the gremlins away. Its always satisfying to hear that engine fire up after tearing up you whits and your hands for a few hours.
 

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