LR3 Rear Diff Help

SHARP

New member
Little history. Bought 2007 LR3 about a year ago had approximately 60k on it. It showed up with a seized electronic parking break system, which the seller paid for replacement. Lowers were replaced prior to purchase.

Since then the car has also had a few more issues.

1. Car darting around with some clunking. We replaced the uppers. A few alignments and driving much better, but still clunking.

2. Since then and getting worse the car is still is experiencing clunking which sounds like its occuring in the rear. Only makes noise when accelerating and turning. The other day when my wife was backing out the car lost driving power. Shut down and restarted everything was fine.

My indy shop has had some trouble trying to replicate the sound until last week on a lift. They are pretty sure that the clunking is a result of a faulty rear diff (which is a known issue with this vehicle). I have read a lot on this over the last couple days and some threads reference clunking, but many reference whining and grinding sounds.

A new rear diff for a locking LR3 runs about 3k-3,800k! A freaking lot!

So if you have experience with this issue please let me know of a cost effective solution…

Looking for a solid rebuild, used rear diff or rebuild options.
 

Eniam17

Adventurer
There are tons of threads about this here and on other sites; if you search around you will find lots of help as well as a few forum members who sell diffs which will be a lot cheaper than buying from dealer.
 

SHARP

New member
I have read just about every thread there is in the last 3 days. However, if you know of those members who do sell diffs, please pass their info to me. Looked at every thread and cannot find much info on it….
 

JimBiram

Adventurer
I had a similar experience and it turned out to be loose bolts on the rear control arms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Clunking can also be related to worn sway bar bushings. I am only aware of the front diffs going askew with these year models, so wouldn't jump on that band wagon too soon. Draining the fluid and replacing front and back oil is a priority, and would give you an idea as to what is going on. Metal fuzz on the drain plug is normal, but solid chunks will tell if it is a real problem.

The vehicle shutting down can be a dirty throttle body and mass airflow sensor. At that mileage, both could be suspect.

Once you chase these small issues you will love your truck. They really are fantastic.

Good luck and report back. :beer:
 

Eniam17

Adventurer
Unseenone on here sells diffs I believe. Also definitely check lower arms and sway bars. We had sway bar bushings go on the sport a few months ago and it was a very loud and random clunking.
 

A.J.M

Explorer
Never heard of rear diffs going, the fronts can though.

Things to check if you haven't already.
Front lower arms.
Front arb bushes.
Rear arb bushes.
Rear upper arms.
Rear hub bushes, top and bottom.
Lower steering column.
Rear propshaft support bearing.

The diffs hold 0.6 litres in the front and 1.1 litres in the back.
Easy to drain and refill on the driveway, I can post a link to a step by step guide if you want?

What age is the battery and alternator, they can be dying but still let the car run, just throw up warning lights and odd behaviour.
 

SHARP

New member
Never heard of rear diffs going, the fronts can though.

Things to check if you haven't already.
Front lower arms.
Front arb bushes.
Rear arb bushes.
Rear upper arms.
Rear hub bushes, top and bottom.
Lower steering column.
Rear propshaft support bearing.

The diffs hold 0.6 litres in the front and 1.1 litres in the back.
Easy to drain and refill on the driveway, I can post a link to a step by step guide if you want?

What age is the battery and alternator, they can be dying but still let the car run, just throw up warning lights and odd behaviour.

Thanks ALL for the tips and I have reached out to a few of you for more info.

Front uppers and lowers are new. I asked my indy about CV joints, which seemed to be in fine working order.

It's a tough call to question your mechanic when he seems very confident the issue and clunking is coming from the rear diff. However, I like definitive, for sure recommendations, instead of throwing money at 80% possibilities. In my gut I am questioning its the diff. I just dont think the clunking I am hearing is something the diff could make, but then again I am not qualified to make that call.

So, lets say I follow the recommendations and replace the diff and the clunking continues. Should I pay the mechanic or expect some sort of compensation?
 

zelatore

Explorer
So, lets say I follow the recommendations and replace the diff and the clunking continues. Should I pay the mechanic or expect some sort of compensation?

Tough call. On the one hand you are only following his recommendations so if that doesn't do it I can see why you'd expect him to eat it.

On the other, diagnostics is not a 100% art. Sometimes there are multiple causes, or things that can't be known until the mechanic is neck-deep in it. And he will certainly be laying out money and time that you will be benefiting from so there's an argument for payment.

Whatever you choose, discuss it and PUT IT IN WRITING prior to starting the job. The discussion might not be comfortable for either of you, but both of you will breath easier if all expectations are laid out in advance.
 

SHARP

New member
Tough call. On the one hand you are only following his recommendations so if that doesn't do it I can see why you'd expect him to eat it.

On the other, diagnostics is not a 100% art. Sometimes there are multiple causes, or things that can't be known until the mechanic is neck-deep in it. And he will certainly be laying out money and time that you will be benefiting from so there's an argument for payment.

Whatever you choose, discuss it and PUT IT IN WRITING prior to starting the job. The discussion might not be comfortable for either of you, but both of you will breath easier if all expectations are laid out in advance.

Agreed and I definitely see both sides, as I am also in a service industry adn it can be tricky. Actually just spoke to him about this very subject and it was very comforting (without sounding like a sissy). He actually brought up the fact that if he does not fix the issue based on his recommendation, it will be on him to make it right. It has become very clear of why my rig is at his shop.

I would much rather have someone say "I dont know" rather than the alternative. I'll keep all posted on any new developments.
 

KyleT

Explorer
I have seen a few rear diffs go out.

It may take some time to narrow it down because noises are hard to find on those sometimes.
 

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