100acrehuphalump
Explorer
So am I the only person viewing my thread? No comments? Anybody?
My m416 being built
- Thread starter 100acrehuphalump
- Start date
100acrehuphalump
Explorer
Lunette is good
I never saw that build, but hey cool. I used to own a 1986 M1008 truck & M101A2 trailer. I really loved that spinning pintle hitch and lunette setup, yes it was a little noisy but I sure liked how they handled. The truck was leaning one direction while the trailer in the other and both totally stable. Wish I never sold her. She was ************!
I never saw that build, but hey cool. I used to own a 1986 M1008 truck & M101A2 trailer. I really loved that spinning pintle hitch and lunette setup, yes it was a little noisy but I sure liked how they handled. The truck was leaning one direction while the trailer in the other and both totally stable. Wish I never sold her. She was ************!
100acrehuphalump
Explorer
If u want I believe you can get a lunette ring from midwestmilitary.org or net? They're not cheap though. Or you may be able to get one from one of the feed places like tractor supply or northern tool. They (commercial) typically come with a hitch pin hole to mount it to a square tube receiver. Which of course you can fabricate from a longer tube. There are cheaper ways than to go the old school military way because u need the lunette ring casting, the lunette ring, special washers, castle nut, and spring. All of which total a fairly hefty sum.
Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
I like the results of the extended tongue. it will make revers manuvers easier.
I have a M101A2 Thay are heavy but make great trailers.
Are you painting it to match the Ford?
I have a M101A2 Thay are heavy but make great trailers.
Are you painting it to match the Ford?
100acrehuphalump
Explorer
Thanks Mark, I was gonna paint it to match my truck but haven't been able to find a good auto paint locally, plus moneys getting a little tight. My friend owns a military surplus store and he carries the obvious OD, Tan, and Brown. Plus he lets me use his sprayer. I'm gonna paint it Desert Tan for now and maybe trim it in brown. Maybe after I get back from my expedition and I can garner some more funds, then I'll repaint her and do the axel switch and adapters with hubs to run the metric ford rims and tires to match.
daninghram
Adventurer
Looks great! Are you adding a tent and rack?
100acrehuphalump
Explorer
Thanks and yes I am adding a rack with roof top tent. I just ordered 2- 250 lb gas lifts for help with raising the lid and 4-50 lb ones for lifting the rack with tent, plus the mounts. I ordered them from
http://www.mcmaster.com/#about-gas-struts/=re67el
The total bill came to $178.00 with shipping
LakeNorman_FJ40
Member
Nice progress. We both are about at the same stages of trailer build. Congrats!
And I see you have the same problem as I did. You built a beefy frame for the lid and then skinned it in 16 gauge steel (presumably to keep the weight down). When welded to the frame, the 16 gauge steel sheet is pulled tight against the lid frame tubes and caused waves and ripples on the top side UNLESS your lid frame tubes are all perfectly level front/rear and side/side. The only way to avoid this is to go to great effort to ensure the frame is perfectly level on the top side (which means it probably won't fit the tub correctly as over time these old tubs tend to get tweaked) OR use very thick steel sheet and less framing (using the skin itself for strength).
So I've been trying to think of ways to resolve the waviness in my lid too. Thought my options were:
- 2nd skin with steel sheet (way too heavy)
- 2nd skin with black plastic star board (still heavy...how to cut nice and straight?)
- thick layer of bed liner (expensive)
- deal with it
- wait until roof top tent is installed (covers up waviness in roof)
Not sure why I didn't think about aluminum sheet. I'll probably go that route as I can order cheap from Aircraft Spruce and then swing by a metal shop and have them cut to fit. Then I'll just secure it to the top using rivets and 3M seam sealer.
If you get some medium steel wool or scotch brite pads, you can scuff the aluminum in a single direction and it will look brushed which will cover up the surface scratches and reduce the reflectivity. Or just sand it and prime it really good with etching primer and you'll be set.
Regarding top heavy, I hope your springs are up to it. My trailer with no cargo or lid bounces all over...with just the lid theres almost no bouncing...and with lid, spare tire, jerry cans, and tub full of gear it rides nice and smooth. But with full load it leans in the turns. And I still want to install a roof top tent and other items. So I'll likely have to upgrade my springs to account for all the extra weight.
And I see you have the same problem as I did. You built a beefy frame for the lid and then skinned it in 16 gauge steel (presumably to keep the weight down). When welded to the frame, the 16 gauge steel sheet is pulled tight against the lid frame tubes and caused waves and ripples on the top side UNLESS your lid frame tubes are all perfectly level front/rear and side/side. The only way to avoid this is to go to great effort to ensure the frame is perfectly level on the top side (which means it probably won't fit the tub correctly as over time these old tubs tend to get tweaked) OR use very thick steel sheet and less framing (using the skin itself for strength).
So I've been trying to think of ways to resolve the waviness in my lid too. Thought my options were:
- 2nd skin with steel sheet (way too heavy)
- 2nd skin with black plastic star board (still heavy...how to cut nice and straight?)
- thick layer of bed liner (expensive)
- deal with it
- wait until roof top tent is installed (covers up waviness in roof)
Not sure why I didn't think about aluminum sheet. I'll probably go that route as I can order cheap from Aircraft Spruce and then swing by a metal shop and have them cut to fit. Then I'll just secure it to the top using rivets and 3M seam sealer.
If you get some medium steel wool or scotch brite pads, you can scuff the aluminum in a single direction and it will look brushed which will cover up the surface scratches and reduce the reflectivity. Or just sand it and prime it really good with etching primer and you'll be set.
Regarding top heavy, I hope your springs are up to it. My trailer with no cargo or lid bounces all over...with just the lid theres almost no bouncing...and with lid, spare tire, jerry cans, and tub full of gear it rides nice and smooth. But with full load it leans in the turns. And I still want to install a roof top tent and other items. So I'll likely have to upgrade my springs to account for all the extra weight.
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Yea, my googling found that but my wallet didn't agree. I haven't put a lot of work into my trailer yet and using the "don't know where to start" excuse. I think I'm gonna go with something like johnspark in the Georgia build thread out just call with it as is.
100acrehuphalump
Explorer
Yes , I agree with increasing the springs. The ones on it are stock and I'm a wee bit worried as to how she will handle. As to the lid hind sight being 20/20 we designed it to extend outside the tub walls and rest on some 45* corner supports. So even though the hinged side is nice and flush the others are a gapped because yes, a 48 year old trailer isn't always perfectly square. I bought some garage door "threshold" rubber to fill the gaps. I'll post pix of that after I paint it this weekend. I was going to mount the Jerry cans on the new front fenders but the uprights for the RTT rack needed stabilizers welded to the tub. So I think I may screw the holders into the sides of the aluminum tongue box. I'm just concerned about the tongue weight. The box will have two AGM deep cycle batteries as well as other stuff in it. Plus we welded a sheet of diamond plate on top of the tongue. Next time I'd suggest using expanded steel, for less weight and better drainage. Today also saw the creation of a bumper with hitch adapter for the bike rack, and stabilizer legs. I used perforated 1 1/4" square tube welded to the base of the uprights for the RTT, and the legs are 1" square tube which I will weld some feet on. Next week ill finish the top part of the rack and refine everything else. On another note, the cheap wheel jack I got from northern tool is just that; cheap. I belive I will need to replace it sooner than later. When the whole thing is done I'm gonna find a truck scale to see how much she weighs.
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LakeNorman_FJ40
Member
Looks great. Seeing all of what you are adding that is a lot if extra weight on the stock springs...before your gear, food, water, and fuel. Hopefully the military springs will be enough.
Your RTT mount system is similar to how I plan to mount an awning to one side of my trailer. Also I'm using the rear upright to tie in a rear stabilizer leg too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your RTT mount system is similar to how I plan to mount an awning to one side of my trailer. Also I'm using the rear upright to tie in a rear stabilizer leg too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
100acrehuphalump
Explorer
I think I may go ahead and either get a new axel and/ or buy a new set of springs. I'm just not too sure how I'm gonna go about attaching all of it after everything is already on her. I could use the stabilizer legs and drop the springs. Do you think the stock axel is good enough and or should I keep it or replace it? Any suggestions on the springs? I know very little about that stuff. Tanks
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100acrehuphalump
Explorer
Speaking of adding more weight. My buddy Dave came over today and helped me set up all the solar and batteries in the tongue box. I have
2 deep cycle AGM Batteries
A shore charger/generator from an old camper
Installed a shore power socket in side of box
Added 20A & 30A fuses for running either shore charge or solar
Installed a solar charger with temp gauge in case it gets too hot, it will automatically cut off
It also shuts off when batteries have a full charge so as not to overcharge
Installed 2 power terminals
Hooked up the wiring for the 100 watt panels
Installed wiring for water tank pump in the bed.
Hooked up a double 12v lighter adapter
Also put in up a 12v radio shack fan, but haven't yet cut the hole to install.
Then taped everything off and rushed against daylight and incoming rain to get it painted. Sprayer was sputtering and messy. Not one of my best paint jobs but, it'll do for now. It just needs some good 'character' scratches! I painted it Coyote. Wasn't able to take pix of it after painting. Will do so tomorrow. She's in the barn drying.
2 deep cycle AGM Batteries
A shore charger/generator from an old camper
Installed a shore power socket in side of box
Added 20A & 30A fuses for running either shore charge or solar
Installed a solar charger with temp gauge in case it gets too hot, it will automatically cut off
It also shuts off when batteries have a full charge so as not to overcharge
Installed 2 power terminals
Hooked up the wiring for the 100 watt panels
Installed wiring for water tank pump in the bed.
Hooked up a double 12v lighter adapter
Also put in up a 12v radio shack fan, but haven't yet cut the hole to install.
Then taped everything off and rushed against daylight and incoming rain to get it painted. Sprayer was sputtering and messy. Not one of my best paint jobs but, it'll do for now. It just needs some good 'character' scratches! I painted it Coyote. Wasn't able to take pix of it after painting. Will do so tomorrow. She's in the barn drying.
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100acrehuphalump
Explorer
I have a Tepui tent awning with a screened in room attachment. I took her for a drive today. She handled well and I could see her fine behind my truck but, she certainly diminished my mileage by a few mpg's.
screwball48
Explorer
I really like how the trailer is turning out. Hopefully I will have one of my own one day and i can borrow some of your ideas for it. One question looking at the side profile picture do you have any worries of the tire rubbing the fender when fully loaded.