Build a Dana 30 or get dana 44 fornt.

[bob91yj]

I've run every one of the "classic" Hammer's trails in my YJ with a D30. It's got Superior Cro-Mo shafts in it and CTM joints. Those are 36" TSL bias plys on steel beadlocks. I've got 4.88 gears in it and a Loc Rite lunch box locker. All of the "experts" will tell you that it will never work. They can bang away on their keyboards listing the reasons it won't, and I'll be out re-arranging some sheet metal having fun.

It's a bit of an apples/oranges comparison, more just proving the point that you can make things work for you, just have to understand their limits.

The fluid on the rocks is not from my junk.

 

[shays4me]

I would honestly say that the Rubicon Dana 44's would be your best bet. It would probably cost you a chunk but you would be getting 4.10's and lockers that don't require install labor. I'm sure the gears and selectable lockers are going to be more money even before the setup then the price of used axles. If you have crazy money to spend, go the high dollar route. If you're like me and money doesn't grow on trees, it would be the best bang for the buck to buy rubicon axles. Look around and you might find a set that are new and unmolested. It never fails to amaze me, but people will buy a Rubicon and then immediately swap the axles for aftermarkets. They must be cashing bigger checks then I am!

 

[whatroad]

bob91yj has the right answer but no one is paying attention. I help guide the Maine Jeep Jamboree and I am fortunate to see just about every Jeep/mod/tire combo you can think of. It's just this simple.....it doesn't matter how well built the rig is, it's 98% driver input. You can break anything. I have watched a dana 30 hold up to incredible amounts of abuse, but the driver knew what he was doing.
Personally, I would upgrade the 30, and take the rest of the money left over and go wheeling instead of armchair wheeling like most do here.

 

[TexasTJ]

Good Advise on the Dana 30. I'm going to start getting items together for the rear and then the Front. If a 44 housing comes up Ill grab that if not Ill build the 30.

 

[wreckedxj]

I ran the hammers on 35s and a dana 30 for a while. If you are exploring and doing rubicon type stuff stick with the 30. It has more ground clearance than the 44 at the diff.
The aftermarket chromo shafts use 44 size u joints that fit in a dana 30. If you want lockouts on your hubs you can get the Reid 30/44 conversion knuckles which lets you use Dana 44 outer parts like the spindle and hub, lockouts, stub shaft etc.
Building a new Dana 44 is going to cost a lot more for no reason (unless you keep breaking ring and pinions in the 30).

IT all boils down to how you drive it in the end though. You can break anything you put under it so going bigger isnt always the fix.

 

[TexasTJ]

Guess the next question is Eaton E lockers or ARB's?
and order an Artec Truss and C gussets.

Any one got a set of used 4.10 Dana 30 Dana 44 gears???

 

[kojackJKU]

bob91yj has the right answer but no one is paying attention. I help guide the Maine Jeep Jamboree and I am fortunate to see just about every Jeep/mod/tire combo you can think of. It's just this simple.....it doesn't matter how well built the rig is, it's 98% driver input. You can break anything. I have watched a dana 30 hold up to incredible amounts of abuse, but the driver knew what he was doing.
Personally, I would upgrade the 30, and take the rest of the money left over and go wheeling instead of armchair wheeling like most do here.

agreed. the d30 is fine. a few upgrades to it and your fine. Another huge internet myth is that you MUST run a 4.88 or better gear. I think this is true only if your hopping rocks all day. I have 3.73s and 33's. I want a LITTLE more get up and go. I am installing 4.10s in mine. Not 4.88s. I daily drive my rig and want good gas milage. RPM control = gas milage. This is a proven fact. 2 rigs one spinning 2300 rpm is going to burn more gas than one spinning 1800. Until someone can supply proof that running a jeep 3.8 at a higher rpm can give better mileage I will stick to my guns. With the lockers, I would also look at the truetrac. They are what im going to be using in my rig. If your not tossing wheels in the air at regular intervals, the truetrac is a cheaper, better alternative to the air/electronic lockers.

Take care of the 30 and it will run forever. Just like a D60. ha ha.

 

[ducnek]

I have wheeled, commuted, DD, everything from (slow)rock crawling to mud to logging roads with my D30 with an eaton Elocker for ~50K miles. I run 33" KM2s, unless you drive like you are on crack, or have unlimited funds I really don't think it's worth the extra cash. That 3-5K could be spent on lots of other things to make a better all around rig. IMO

 

[TexasTJ]

The Jeep is Pretty well set now. Axles and maybe 35's are my last two steps.

 

[Roktoys84]

I think with the extra weight of the Unlimited you'll want 4.56 or 4.88s. The 30 in my LJ has survived some pretty hard wheeling in Moab with 37"s, but there's a reason I never put a locker in it. I've seen lots of locked 30s with popped ujoints and outer shafts running tires as small as 33"s.

 

[shalezzz]

RPM control = gas milage. This is a proven fact. 2 rigs one spinning 2300 rpm is going to burn more gas than one spinning 1800. Until someone can supply proof that running a jeep 3.8 at a higher rpm can give better mileage I will stick to my guns. .

proper gearing helps in the fact that you dont have to go WOT to accelerate on a gentile slope, so that can save gas milage. This way you're not flooring it every where to get up n go

 

[kojackJKU]

but the flip side is that on the flats and constant cruise, you are revving higher and burning more gas. I don't have to floor it anywhere here, besides passing people. That is the only time I feel a lack of power. As I said, a lot of people are overgearing for the driving that they are ultimately going to be doing mostly. 4.10 is going to be ideal for my driving. Pop on a diablosport to set my transmission points to the gear and tire ratios and I should have the perfect setup for overland/dd duties.

 

[TexasTJ]

but the flip side is that on the flats and constant cruise, you are revving higher and burning more gas. I don't have to floor it anywhere here, besides passing people. That is the only time I feel a lack of power. As I said, a lot of people are overgearing for the driving that they are ultimately going to be doing mostly. 4.10 is going to be ideal for my driving. Pop on a diablosport to set my transmission points to the gear and tire ratios and I should have the perfect setup for overland/dd duties.

That was my thought on this too. Dave at AEV also says for a DD 4.10 work great with 35's on a 2012 auto, not that anyone here care's what he thinks.

 

[kojackJKU]

I take what he said to be good knowledge. I have 3.73s in my 2011, and run 285. In most situations mines fine. I would love to have the 4.10s just for a little bump. No hit to milage either.