Considering an xterra, have questions

Idaho_Dan

New member
Hey guys, kinda crazy this is my first post, been lurking for years actually.

I am considering buying a 2008 xterra, stick shift that has a touch over 100,000 miles on it. Dealer is asking 11,000 bux.

Is there any issues with reliability with these rigs around 2007-2010? Any trans or diff issues? Bad tc's? Any info will be greatly appreciated.

I'm in north idaho and am looking for a dd/mild trail rig that's reliable...
 

Strizzo

Explorer
They are pretty reliable with the stick, that year range had some issues with the radiator trans fluid heat exchanger leaking coolant into the trans fluid, but that wouldn't be an issue with yours. easy to do a mild suspension lift with a spacer, upper control arms, longer endlinks and an add-a-leaf for around 600 bucks. 400ish would be the UCAs but they're necessary to prevent contact with the coil bucket with a lifted setup. if you want to spend a few more dollars you could go with bilstein 5100 or Old Man Emu.

a lot of people will say you can do a 2" lift with just spacers and shackles for 150 bucks, but that will have consequences. i'd recommend doing it right the first time rather than chasing problems down the road like I did.
 

SpongeX

Rust does a body good.
You're better off with a 6speed model as far as reliability is concerned. It gives you a better rear axle and no worries of the dreaded strawberry milkshake. My 06 is a stick and the only thing I've had to do is replace primary cats and will soon be doing headers.

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk
 

SpongeX

Rust does a body good.
I should clarify I'm doing headers because of a manifold leak.

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk
 

SpongeX

Rust does a body good.
I think that was resolved for that model year.

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk
 

Idaho_Dan

New member
Yeah as far as lifts are concerned that's a ways out, I can make do with stock and some skinny tires for my local trails for now. But a mild lift would be in order maybe a year down the road
 

SpongeX

Rust does a body good.
You can do a spacer lift for cheap. First step would be 33s though. They fit with just a little melt mod

Sent from my VS950 4G using Tapatalk
 

skibum315

Explorer
I had to do the timing chain (under warranty) on my '08 (late '07 date of manufacture) ... but with that many miles on the one you're looking at, if you can't hear it already, it shouldn't be a problem for that particular motor. Even if it is, use it as a negotiating point, and (if you want) get them to fix it as a condition of the sale ... or knock some off the top and get it done once the bank account recovers. I have yet to hear of someone putting off the timing chain repair and having catastrophic motor failure as a result (some for 10s of thousands of miles). However, caveat emptor, the VQ is an interference motor ... if it does let go, the pistons could hit the valves. But it's not like belt driven motors, where the belt is guaranteed to fail if you let it go long enough past the change interval ... by design, the chain driven motors (at lest to my understanding) should have their chains last the lifetime of the mill, if no major motor mods are introduced. If you do need to have the timing chain done, I've heard it in the range of ~$1k to $14 or $15-hundred to have done in a shop. Much less if you source the parts and attempt it yourself.

The stick is the right call ... as someone said you'll get a better axle ratio than any of the AT trucks (the m226 is the Nissan variant of the D44HD, came in all manuals and with a factory e-locker in all Offroad/Pro-4X models; the c200k is the other axle, and it came in all non-OR/P4X AT trucks). Plus, I've anecdotally noticed that all MPG reports for MT trucks seem to run about 1-2 MPGs higher, on average, than those from the AT guys. Besides, what enthusiast doesn't like to row their own?
 

Idaho_Dan

New member
So the deal fell throug on that truck, the dealer wouldn't give me the warranty I wanted.

Worked out though! A day later we found a 2010 xterra pro 4x/ off road with 7,400 miles on the clock. It's not a stick tho
 

troseph

Member
With that AT I would still recommend doing the radiator trans cooler bypass and adding an aftermarket trans cooler. The guide is easy to find with a quick search for 'Xterra Radiator Bypass'. The peace of mind I got from it was well worth the $85 I spent on parts and fluid. Otherwise, be sure to go with upper control arms with better clearances when/if you lift it. I waited a couple months and ended up killing the bushings in my control arms from the stress of them slapping the coil bucket constantly. And the big "clunk" noise is unnerving.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,894
Messages
2,879,310
Members
225,450
Latest member
Rinzlerz
Top