Edgestar Problem: Fridge Not Functioning Properly on 12v

BlairB

Observer
Hi All. Curious if anyone had a similar experience with their Edgestar to what I am having. Any advice is much appreciated; I am leaving in 7 days for a week of camping in Utah, so I really need to get it running.

Recently got an Edgestar 43qt that was damaged during shipping (small dent). Plugged it into 110 and it ran like a champ, no problems over a few day period.

Today I installed it in my truck and when using the 12v cord that came with it and a 12ft 18ga wire extension (rated to 15amp) the fridge control panel will power on and light up, but the unit will not cool. Tried both a normal temp and flash freeze mode and the compressor doesn't turn on.

Any ideas on what the problem may be is greatly appreciated. I may try wiring up the fridge directly to the battery tomorrow to see if that solves the problem, but I am hoping I don't need to do that.
 

ismael D

Adventurer
May be not enough amp to your cooler
Check the wiring from your 12v out let. Depen on the distance from the battery to your 12v outlet have a loss of amps. May your extension too long.
 

Vermonster

Observer
If I understand you correctly, you have the fridge plugged into the cigarette lighter via extension cable. All kinds of places this could go wrong.

These two threads may help you:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77797-Edgestar-issue
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/59788-Edgestar-Fridge-Low-Battery-Cut-Off-Issues

I'd start by wiring directly to the battery with the vehicle running. If it works there, then just use the short manufacturer provided cord and plug into the cig lighter. Then you can determine if the problem is in the vehicle wiring or extension cable.

The manufacturer provided cord is also 18AWG and I would guess with the combined length of the extension cable and the OEM cable, you are having a voltage drop or insufficient current issue when the compressor starts (it needs about 8 amps).

VT
 

moabian

Active member
Yes...what Vermonster said. I've had numerous fridges and haven't seen one yet that would run reliably off of a factory-installed 12V outlet. The wiring is usually too small. I always wire mine to the battery through a switch on the dash with 10 gauge wire. Your 18-gauge may be rated for 15 amp, but that only applies to shorter runs. The longer the wire, the larger it needs to be. Fridges are very finicky when it comes to power supplies.
 

CaliMobber

Adventurer
Yup when I first got my edgestar, i plugged it into the rear cig lighter on the 4runner but it would stop running showing low voltage when the battery volts were still 12.3v. I ran a 6 gauge to the cig plug and its been fine first. Does it start to work then stop or just never turn on? If your worried you can always bring an inverter and run off 120v if it acts up on you while camping.
 

BlairB

Observer
Thanks for the help guys. Looks like it was the extension cord. When I ditched the extension that was running the back 12v outlet and used the cord that came with the fridge in the front 12v it started right up. Just checked it now and it is a happy 38 degrees.

Does anyone know a heavier gauge cord that gives me a little extra length? I would love to be able to not give up my front 12v outlet. The fridge in the 2nd row rather than the rear of the vehicle, since the tire carrier is a little too heavy for the copilot to move when she needs to get to the food.
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
Your best option is to wire in an auxiliary 12V socket somewhere right near where the fridge is, and wire it with #10 AWG wire coming directly from your battery (use a 10-15A fuse at the battery).
 

moabian

Active member
I would also recommend using a Hella socket rather than a standard 12v cigarette lighter type socket. When I've used standard sockets, I sometimes had to wiggle the plug around to get a good contact. The Hella-type socket makes MUCH better contact and is a more secure connection.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Since you have a 4runner like mine (I have an '07) I can tell you that the rear 12v outlet is a bit marginal for a fridge (I'm guessing it's the wire going to the rear outlet that's the culprit.) Mine works OK as long as I don't crank the fridge up too high. The front outlets work much better than the rear. Do you have the "smoker's kit?" That will give you an additional 12v outlet up front. I'm assuming you've done the 12v constant-on modification already? You will need to do this if you want your fridge to run when the ignition is off.
 

BlairB

Observer
Since you have a 4runner like mine (I have an '07) I can tell you that the rear 12v outlet is a bit marginal for a fridge (I'm guessing it's the wire going to the rear outlet that's the culprit.) Mine works OK as long as I don't crank the fridge up too high. The front outlets work much better than the rear. Do you have the "smoker's kit?" That will give you an additional 12v outlet up front. I'm assuming you've done the 12v constant-on modification already? You will need to do this if you want your fridge to run when the ignition is off.

Good call on the rear 12v, it probably isn't helping things. I don't have a smokers kit, but I may pick one up now. Ultimately I will probably just mount an additional outlet in the rear seat where the fridge lives after my Utah trip.

And yes, I did do the 12v mod. Rather than a jumper wire and constant on I ended up running it to a SPST switch so I can control it. The truck sits a lot, so I don't want extra draw on the battery.

PS- cool trailer!
 

CaliMobber

Adventurer
For my setup I went overboard and ran a 6gauge speaker wire to the back and wired it onto the stock cig lighter plug. I also have a 2 gauge wire going from the batt to under the driver seat into a fuse box then the 6 gauge on a fuse to the back of the car. Its nice having the thick wire back there. I have wired up other high demand items like my 12v pump to a cig lighter plug since it can handle the current.

pictures are in my build, link is in my signature.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
It's deja vu all over again. :)

Every month or so it seems there is an Edgestar/Engel/Arb fridge not working on 12V thread - just shows how finicky these things are.

I helped troubleshoot a buddy's fridge last year - exact same issue, tested great open circuit but dropped off as soon as there was a load. Talk about a PITA to troubleshoot.

I understand why there are so many posts - there should almost be a big ol' warning label on the fridges. I always wonder how many get returned for 'not working on DC' that we never hear about.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Good call on the rear 12v, it probably isn't helping things. I don't have a smokers kit, but I may pick one up now. Ultimately I will probably just mount an additional outlet in the rear seat where the fridge lives after my Utah trip.

And yes, I did do the 12v mod. Rather than a jumper wire and constant on I ended up running it to a SPST switch so I can control it. The truck sits a lot, so I don't want extra draw on the battery.

PS- cool trailer!

Thanks! We love our little Bubbles!

Just FYI on the smoker's kit - it actually goes to a different circuit than the 12v power outlets so if your "regular" front and rear 12v outlets are "constant on", the cigarette lighter will not be unless you modify it, too.

I was fortunate that mine had the Smoker's Kit when I bought it. It would have been a little tough going from a 3rd gen that had THREE 12v power outlets up front (two power outlets and a cigarette lighter) and one in the back to one that only had one up front and one in the rear.

And what's the deal with that, anyway? to put it in Facebook terms, "This car has too darned many 12v power outlets" said nobody, ever. :D
 

TXLX

Observer
I had an edgestar that wouldn't run on 110v. Don't know what broke on it. My current edgestar has only stopped working once on 12v, but I'm pretty sure it's because the battery was low.

I assume the compressor and electronics are designed to run on 12v with a converter changing the 110v to 12v. So with that assumption, it seems strange to me a fridge would not run on 12v and will run on 110v. Unless it is a problem with the 12v power, cord, or connection.... Why would a fridge work on 110v and not 12v?
 

Marbles

New member
Perhaps you should check it from experts, for example sfappliancesrepair.com. Quite possibly he just has a small failure!
 

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