Would you put a locker in ....

[Dozilla]

I have a 2013 JKU auto with 35" tires 3.5" lift and I'm looking to regear (going to 4.88) Would you put lockers in the front (Dana30) and rear(Dana44) ?

I live in AZ. 70% is Overlanding and some rockcrawling because its AZ and that is most of the state...Won't be doing any of the HARD courses ever...Not into body damage...

Have any of you ever NEEDED to use lockers in AZ Utah Nevada New Mexico Colorado ......

Any and all thoughts are great.

Donny

 

[Septu]

My thought on this is that if you're going into the difs... put a locker/LSD or something in. Even if it's only one in the F/R. If you rarely use it, then you spent 500-800? that you rarely get the benefit of. However if you don't do it, and decide that you do want/need it... it's the cost for the locker... then another 1200+ (over 2k up here) for the labor to dig back into the dif.

 

[crawler#976]

I'd certainly recommend a rear ARB for AZ wheelin'. With that large a tire and low gears in the D35, I'd leave it open.

But for a similar amount of $$$, an LoD mid width front bumper and SmittyBilt XRC8 Comp winch would be a great addition. There are places a locker just doesn't do much more than get you really stuck...

I use the lockers more in snow/mud/sand than I do crawlin' anymore. But when I do get onto a trail like Smiley Rock or some of the other local technical trails, they do get used to keep things under control. I've used them in all the 4 Corner states at one time or another, and was glad to have them available.

Mark

 

[rkj__]

I would certainly put a locker in at least one of the diffs. It is very frustrating to be stuck in a 4WD vehicle, with only 1 front wheel, and 1 rear wheel turning.

I have a GMC Canyon with a G80 rear, which locks when the speed differential between the two wheels is too great. It kicks in quite a lot when I take the truck off road, and makes quite a difference, even though I don't have much control over it, like you do with a selectable locker.

 

[kojackJKU]

go true trac front and rear. trouble free and works great. I am going with them when I up my gearing a bit.

 

[tweenerlj]

Since you mention some rockcrawling, I'd suggest at least one locker. Since you say 70% overlanding, that would lead me to suggest a selectable locker. Not sure what your stock ratio is, but if you are going to have to replace the carriers to run the new gears you might as well add the enhancement. I don't have your wallet, but I'd suggest a Detroit Tru-Trac limited slip in the front. That is a Helical gear limited slip and does not have clutch packs to wear out. Hands down, the best LSD out there. However, since you mention 35's, you might want to think about a replacement D44 from Dynatrac or G2 to avoid the woes of the bent housings. I'd look at the new Eaton E-locker or an ARB for the rear. That way you have stock handling and can push the button if you need it.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I'll disagree with Mark, sticking with a D35 on 35" tires I would be more inclined to put in a locker. Tire spin and torque differences will be tough on such a small axle and a locker lets you be a lot more gentle on the drivetrain. It's not necessary to equate locker with hard core, anyone who travels off pavement benefits from differential lockers and even like Mark mentions, snow packed roads. But really any time your vehicle has unequal weight distribution minimizing tire slip is a good idea. The only time lockers suck is dry roads in turns and to some extent slick pavement. If you get a selectable locker you eliminate all the negatives (e.g. fully open) and accentuate the positive (e.g. fully locked).

I run a Aussie in the rear of my truck and I'm just running 30" tires and stock gears. It's all about slowing down and letting the tires to their job so you don't need as much skinny pedal. But the O.P. said he'd got a D44 in the rear, so I don't know that it's as much of an issue.

With such a high end truck and obviously a few bucks sunk into it, I would absolutely put in a locker during the rear gear. With the Dana 44 you have a number of options but I would go with a selectable even if you don't immediately use it at least the work is done.

 

[Yarjammer]

FWIW, I'm still on the fence about putting in a locker. I've been on multiple trail runs that I had little difficulty with my open diff where the person in front of me in a locked Rubicon had a great deal of trouble in areas. I think driving style and vehicle loading/config plays a huge factor. I'm not saying they aren't good; I just don't think they're as quintessential as some folks make them out to be. If you have the cash to spare, then by all means get one for [expensive] trail insurance. I'd tend to agree with Mark on getting a winch first if you don't already have one and putting in a locker down the road if you find yourself in positions where one would be advantageous enough to justify it.

Are you sure about your gear ratio? If you aren't going to 37's and plan to drive at highway speeds I wouldn't go any higher than 4.56 based on the research I've done in preparation for re-gearing as well. Make sure the gear ratio chart you were looking at was for the 2012 and up with the 3.6L instead of the 08-11 3.8L version.

 

[brianjwilson]

In my 2012 with manual trans I have 4.88s. It's low but not that bad. If you're not carrying a lot of weight or towing, and travel at 70+ regularly the 4.56 would probably be more comfortable cruising.

I would lock at least one axle since you're paying for labor anyway. An on board compressor is always good to have anyway. I'd go arb in the rear. Some would lock the front to prevent wheel spin, I would say rear since the axle is stronger. The BLD should somewhat prevent excessive wheel spin with a tire in the air, and the rear locker is really helpful in snow/sand/mud without inhibiting steering. The steering will have it's own issues with hard use on 35s as it is.

 

[Dozilla]

I was looking at ARB if I go locker(s). I do have Poison Spyder front and back bumpers with a WARN 12000lb winch on the front. It does look every bit like a crawler but Overlanding is our true passion. We do go out alone a lot though...I guess thats why I was wondering about others experiences out there...on needing lockers.


Donny

 

[griffman]

I have a 2007 wrangler x running 35s with 4.10s from the factory. Ive been reading up on it and Im not sure if I want one in the front. As it is the Dana 30 up front is on the chopping block so to speak so I really dont want to put any more money into it. I will probably get lockers down the road but for the stuff I do (mostly medium trail runs) Im not sure if its worth the big bucks. For the most part my max trax and winch can get me out, it just takes a little more work on my end.

My dad drives a 2005 LR3 that has both front and rear lockers and I can go anywhere he can (he got stuck more then me on some trails). I know its comparing apples to oranges but just some food for thought.

 

[mmmlafayette]

With 35's on the differentials you have I would leave them open. If you get into high traction situations, like slickrock, I believe the open diffs are going to be more forgiving. If you want lockers on the 35 inch tires you have I would save the money for some stronger axles. Look for one of the Rubicon guys that are upgrading to 60's and get them. Now you have an axle that can handle it and the locker as well. In the interim-the Foot Locker works pretty well in most situations. For those that don't know, using the brakes fairly hard as you go over obstacles minimizes free wheel spin.

 

[bdog1]

+1 on the rubi swap! Thst seems ideal if you can live with 4:10's


Sent by wing, prayer & ATT

 

[JIMBO]

:sombrero: If you're in a jeep with open diffs, following Rubicons in locker trails and they're having trouble, but you aren't--

They just haven't been to any tough MALLS yet-

If you're regearing, you've already pay'd for the axle labor, the only additional costs are gonna be your retail (sale) costs of lockers and it's foolish not to do both at the same time unless it's a Mall jeep !

Driving in new areas, not knowing trail conditions without a locker, is like diving for Abalone, without an AB Iron--

Sure you CAN get them, but your success and safety is much greater with the Iron-(locker)

Lockers don't guarantee anything, except getting stucker--you've gotta learn how/when and which one(both) is the best for success-

Good luck

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

 

[Dozilla]

:sombrero: If you're in a jeep with open diffs, following Rubicons in locker trails and they're having trouble, but you aren't--

They just haven't been to any tough MALLS yet-

If you're regearing, you've already pay'd for the axle labor, the only additional costs are gonna be your retail (sale) costs of lockers and it's foolish not to do both at the same time unless it's a Mall jeep !

Driving in new areas, not knowing trail conditions without a locker, is like diving for Abalone, without an AB Iron--

Sure you CAN get them, but your success and safety is much greater with the Iron-(locker)

Lockers don't guarantee anything, except getting stucker--you've gotta learn how/when and which one(both) is the best for success-

Good luck

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO

HA! I promise I have no mall crawler....And I did laugh out loud to STUCKER...that is soooooo true!

Donny