05+ Tacoma Newbie Question on mods to flat tow behind RV

tweenerlj

Adventurer
So, I am in the brainstorming process for replacing my daily driver and I am considering a late model Tacoma. It will be replacing a 2000 Ford Explorer that I currently have set up to flat tow behind my RV. I am wanting a vehicle with a little more off-road capability. I like the idea of the Tacoma because of aftermarket support and such. The drawback is that they are not set up to tow 4 wheels down.

In researching Toyota Aftermarket stuff, I came across the Front Range Off-Road Fab Full-Floater Conversion.
FF%20chunks%20main.jpg

This seems like it could be a good solution to the towing problem. This kit would enable the use of lockout hubs on the rear axle that could be disengaged when towing. My question is about the front end. Can the 05+ Tacoma be towed like this if the rear drive shaft stays still? I am assuming that there is some sort of disconnect in the front or would the front drive shaft still spin when towed in this manner?

If I was to get a kit like this, which Front Range says that they could make for the 05+ Tacoma, how would you go about disabling the ABS since this modification would not be compatible with it?
 
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java

Expedition Leader
I do believe the front DS will still spring, but ill defer to the experts there.

Ive never seen locking hubs used on the rear end. Interesting. As for the ABS, pull the fuse.
 

Mrknowitall

Adventurer
You could also do a Lefty T-case from inchworm- then you have a traditional gear t-case and just stick it in neutral.
Before you buy something, knowing you'll have to throw 2 grand at it, just to be able to flat tow it, I'd give a Wrangler a lot of hard thinking... Tj or JK, you can't beat the after market stuff or off-road performance.
And no, the front shaft doesn't spin.
 

tweenerlj

Adventurer
You could also do a Lefty T-case from inchworm- then you have a traditional gear t-case and just stick it in neutral.
Before you buy something, knowing you'll have to throw 2 grand at it, just to be able to flat tow it, I'd give a Wrangler a lot of hard thinking... Tj or JK, you can't beat the after market stuff or off-road performance.
And no, the front shaft doesn't spin.

Agreed, I already have an LJ:

1335196984-l.jpg


It would have to be a 4dr JK and a 2012 or newer to get the decent motor. All of which are near $40K new or used. I just can't fathom that much for an initial investment for a Jeep. The Taco could be found for $10K less or more.
 
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tweenerlj

Adventurer
Another option is a Remco Drive Shaft Coupling, however they are just as or more expensive as a full float kit and I have heard that the mechanism gets dirty easily and is hard to operate.

DSCDiagram_LARGE.jpg
 

hilux30

Observer
Is the RV a Diesel pusher? if so it can handle the extra ton for a trailer and piece of mind (if gas then I wouldn't be towing a Tacoma anyways). Is the Tacoma going to be an auto or manual?
There is no 'reliable' way to float the drive-shaft, I wouldn't trust any mentioned 'mechanisms'. If automatic, I've flat-towed my 07 4x4 Auto from FL to MI behind a large semi tow-truck that boss man purchased new at a show, so drove the Taco down, disconnected the rear shaft at the diff, tied it up on the frame very securely and on we went. Mechanically nothing was turning except front wheels/CV (not front drive-shaft) and rear wheels/axles etc... I would stay away from modifying the front-end to manual locking hubs, I always wished I had the hubs like my old 94, but the ADD is reliable when treated good, and too complex to switch to manual hubs..

A manual T-case is what we need here, which the FJ and 4runner has, but strangely not the Taco.. Installing a manual T-case in a Tacoma is always possible as long as the ADD still gets electrical signal to engage.
 

bkg

Explorer
You could also do a Lefty T-case from inchworm- then you have a traditional gear t-case and just stick it in neutral.
Before you buy something, knowing you'll have to throw 2 grand at it, just to be able to flat tow it, I'd give a Wrangler a lot of hard thinking... Tj or JK, you can't beat the after market stuff or off-road performance.
And no, the front shaft doesn't spin.


Per Marlin, flat towing with tcase in neutral will likely fry the tcase. The gear driven toy tcase isn't like the Dana models and shouldn't be flat towed in neutral. Not sure about the newer chain driven cases.
 

tweenerlj

Adventurer
Is the RV a Diesel pusher? if so it can handle the extra ton for a trailer and piece of mind (if gas then I wouldn't be towing a Tacoma anyways). Is the Tacoma going to be an auto or manual?
There is no 'reliable' way to float the drive-shaft, I wouldn't trust any mentioned 'mechanisms'. If automatic, I've flat-towed my 07 4x4 Auto from FL to MI behind a large semi tow-truck that boss man purchased new at a show, so drove the Taco down, disconnected the rear shaft at the diff, tied it up on the frame very securely and on we went. Mechanically nothing was turning except front wheels/CV (not front drive-shaft) and rear wheels/axles etc... I would stay away from modifying the front-end to manual locking hubs, I always wished I had the hubs like my old 94, but the ADD is reliable when treated good, and too complex to switch to manual hubs..

A manual T-case is what we need here, which the FJ and 4runner has, but strangely not the Taco.. Installing a manual T-case in a Tacoma is always possible as long as the ADD still gets electrical signal to engage.

No, the motor home is gas. You apparently don't understand what a full float axle with lockout hubs will do. The kit mentioned in the original post is for the rear axle, not the front end. Spin out the hubs and all that will turn are the wheels, the axles, differential, and drive shaft will remain stationary. I would get an Auto in the Tacoma.
As for a trailer, I don't have anywhere to store it and the lion share of RV parks cannot accommodate a motorhome + an 18' car trailer. Also, that is another set of 4 tires and wheel bearings that need to be maintained. not interested. Been flat towing the Jeep and Explorer for years with no problems.
 

hilux30

Observer
I do understand what a 'full float axle with lockout hubs' whatever means, I was talking about both F/R but didn't come out well, it's crazy amount money to do so little, I would invest in FJ T-case conversion before that. That kit you seek is not for an 05+..
The way I see it after 15 years of heavy towing/repair, gas motor homes pulling anything more than a small car always end up over-heating engines/transmissions especially on climbs, 454s, V10s, 5.4s etc, but sounds like you've been doing it with the Explorer so it's only what I've seen...
What trim explorer was it, if I remember they are push button T-case, some are full time AWD.. ?

http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60
https://www.google.com/search?q=tacoma+fj+transfer+case+swap&oq=tacoma+fj+tran&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l2j69i64.6075j0j8&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

... it's all big $$ either way..
 
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tweenerlj

Adventurer
I do understand what a 'full float axle with lockout hubs' whatever means, I was talking about both F/R but didn't come out well, it's crazy amount money to do so little, I would invest in FJ T-case conversion before that. That kit you seek is not for an 05+..

I contacted Front Range and they can put together a kit for the 05+ even though their website doesn't list it. (it appears that the last update to their web site was in 2011). Ok, but it seems you might still be confused about my thoughts which were to only do the hubs on the rear axle and rely on the factory front end disconnect.

The way I see it after 15 years of heavy towing/repair, gas motor homes pulling anything more than a small car always end up over-heating engines/transmissions especially on climbs, 454s, V10s, 5.4s etc, but sounds like you've been doing it with the Explorer so it's only what I've seen...

I have been towing with my Class C E450 chassis motor home since it was brand new in 2003. The first Toad was a 1994 Ford Ranger 4x4 automatic with a manual T-Case.


What trim explorer was it, if I remember they are push button T-case, some are full time AWD.. ?

Then I set up the 2000 Explorer to tow. It is a 4.0 XLT 4x4 with the electric shift transfer case. This is a real 2 speed transfer case with low range. I had the dealer install a neutral tow kit which stops the shift servo in the neutral position for towing.



After that I set up the TJ Unlimited to tow:



I have never had any problems and not worried that I will. I recently got the TorquePro App for Android which give real time monitoring via bluetooth and OBDII where I have monitored the transmission/engine temperature and never saw the engine heat up above normal operating range and the transmission would only heat up ~10*F above the engine on hard pulls, then cool right back down.


A T-case swap is big $$ and would steer me away from a Tacoma. My thoughts are if I could just do the rear full float for ~$2K, it would still be cheaper than a $40K 2012+ JK 4DR.
 

tweenerlj

Adventurer
I am honestly thinking about ditching the Jap Crap and looking at the Chevy Colorado which already has a neutral T-case position that can be used for towing. My hesitation is the new 2015 due out this fall. I'd hate to get an older one and wish that I had waited.
 

hilux30

Observer
well you got me, you've done more setup to your rigs than most customers I've seen, I've always loved the cut-outs ( perfect size) but wished they had Diesel sixes... we are all annoyed by the way Toyota did their T-case set-up but You're right, stick to the American Bullet proof amazingly engineered 'stuff' .. leave the Jap (wow, there are still humans that actually use that term) inferior Crap to us ignorant folks. .. :ylsmoke:

Or you can get rid off all that and get THIS: http://www.earthcruiser.com/

cheers
 
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Mrknowitall

Adventurer
I had a few thousand miles flat towing my 85 4Runner- T-case never complained.
The new cases have the pump in the front, so towing neutral could lead to oil starvation.
 

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