ARB bumper/winch vs ARB air locker rear diff on a gen III

cnutco

Adventurer
zu8adure.jpg


I went with the bumper/ winch first because I venture out on my own whenever I can. I will get lockers front/ rear when I can too.


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magoh76

Adventurer
If you shoot for a locker, I'd suggest a front locker (ARB) rather than a rear.
As others have stated, the factory rear LSD can get you a long way when you get the hang of loading it with the parking brake.
It also is great on ice/snow covered pavement driving, where a selectable locker leaves you with an open differential.
Good Luck

I've seen it mentioned several times, can someone describe how you load the LSD with the parking brake? What does that do?

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FullMonte

Adventurer
zu8adure.jpg


I went with the bumper/ winch first because I venture out on my own whenever I can. I will get lockers front/ rear when I can too.


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What a beaut...

I heard ARB bumpers were very thin steel..anyone have a problem with theirs?

And what's up with the Aussies and the gauge sizing on their metal works? I just called ironman north America for their skid plates and the guy told me that it wasn't close to the sizing were used to in the states. He basically said it would be putting on sheet metal under my ride, definitely not meant for rocks.. Gah!

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cnutco

Adventurer
What a beaut...

I heard ARB bumpers were very thin steel..anyone have a problem with theirs?

And what's up with the Aussies and the gauge sizing on their metal works? I just called ironman north America for their skid plates and the guy told me that it wasn't close to the sizing were used to in the states. He basically said it would be putting on sheet metal under my ride, definitely not meant for rocks.. Gah!

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Thanks! I have heard the same thing, but I think the build is sufficient for the Gen 3. It is 1000 times better than the stock bumper. I am sure there are custom builders out there that can build better and beefier bumpers, but for a lot more money not to mention the added weight to the Montero. I guess it is a give and take issue. I just wish ARB made a rear bumper!
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
I build bumpers, I make them out of 3/16" and 1/4" steel with internal framework for added rigidity. The Aussies have a killer recipe as well, they use 3mm steel and they have engineered the bends and internal framework to be plenty stout without being overly heavy. Their bumpers are great for the overland wheeler, they offer good protection but they're not super high clearance for rock crawling and they won't take the abuse of constantly dragging your vehicle over rocks and using your bumper to help "guide" your truck up the next boulder.




I have built some rock crawler bumpers for monteros and unless you spend your time door deep in boulders you'd be better off with something lighter. Heavy bumpers increase front suspension wear and decrease milage, it took me some time to get over the "everyone needs a rock bumper" thing. So in the end i 'm having the Chinese build me the overland style bumpers, I'll still build rock bumpers but at the price and for what most Montero owners need they are just too much. I've grown a healthy respect for Montero owner frugalness over the years, the aftermarket has pretty much fled from the Montero world because of all the "we want, we want, we want" and then the "oh, not at that price". Anyone who has built for Monteros will tell you about the time they got burned and i'm no different except the part where i keep coming back for more. Maybe i'm a glutton for punishment.


Sorry that turned into a rant.
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
Something is better than nothing, you'd be surprised how much the stock Gen 1 and 2 skid plates help. If you can afford it AR400 1/8" plates would be ideal. They are stronger than 1/4" mild steel and obviously lighter.
 

geordie4x4

Observer
I think sneakyninja has hit the nail on the head. The bar really depends on the sort of protection you need and use your vehicle gets.
Not intending to completely defend the ARB bar just because I have one, but they are quite strong for the weight. Believe me, I have given mine a lot of hard use over the last seven years and it has stood up well.
ARB in Australia design and test the bars to be compliant with Australian safety crash standards and the weight and size of the bar depends on the original vehicle specifications, load carrying capacity and mounting points. There is no point having a big heavy bar if it is bolted to a light weight chassis with crash 'crush points' that may become fatigued by the weight. So with all that in mind they have to design to be compliant and still give better protection than a standard bumper.
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
I agree with SneakyNinja too, but I might put the tires above all, as that is usually the single greatest impact on overall trail performance, and you can fit 33's without the lift.... Well, on the Gen2's. I don't know about the Three's.

The locker is essential gear too.... For helping you get stuck deeper into the trail :)
 

Mrknowitall

Adventurer
I've seen it mentioned several times, can someone describe how you load the LSD with the parking brake? What does that do?

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This method works best on helical gear LSDs, like the ones in the early Gen3s. Other differentials of this type are sold by Eaton (who bought out the Detroit brand) as TruTrac and the Torsen differentials in lots of OE applications. H1 Hummers had hese as well, and the owners manual (as well as some Military training materials) actually explained how to ride the drakes to engage the LSD. The later Gen3's have open diffs with TC.
When you have one of these helical gear diffs in the rear axle, they do their thing pretty well unnoticed, until you lift a rear wheel (teetering). Then they behave more like an open diff. If you then gently and progressively apply the parking brake, the drag on the free spinning wheel will cause the diff to bind up a little and then send torque to the stationary wheel. If you have a vehicle with Helical LSD's in BOTH front and rear diffs (sweet setup in Jeeps with front D30 axles and some Toyotas, and of course H1 Hummers), you can use the regular brakes as well to employ both front and rear LSD's.
 

magoh76

Adventurer
This method works best on helical gear LSDs, like the ones in the early Gen3s. Other differentials of this type are sold by Eaton (who bought out the Detroit brand) as TruTrac and the Torsen differentials in lots of OE applications. H1 Hummers had hese as well, and the owners manual (as well as some Military training materials) actually explained how to ride the drakes to engage the LSD. The later Gen3's have open diffs with TC.
When you have one of these helical gear diffs in the rear axle, they do their thing pretty well unnoticed, until you lift a rear wheel (teetering). Then they behave more like an open diff. If you then gently and progressively apply the parking brake, the drag on the free spinning wheel will cause the diff to bind up a little and then send torque to the stationary wheel. If you have a vehicle with Helical LSD's in BOTH front and rear diffs (sweet setup in Jeeps with front D30 axles and some Toyotas, and of course H1 Hummers), you can use the regular brakes as well to employ both front and rear LSD's.

Thanks Mrknowitall!

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