Don't know if anybody has done this yet, but our old suburban had this, and we plan on building out our new (88) to have it as well.
Take the condensation lines from the rear and front ac condensors....
Great idea, I to have seen the dreaded "fluid puddle" and freaked! Any pics, especially the lines used to the tank?
Sorry no, we don't have access to that truck anymore, but I plan to do this to our 88 suburban soon. It is something I came up with about 5 years ago. It took a couple of days to figure out all the fabbing necessary, but actual fabrication was fairly straightforward. Take cardboard and duct tape and cut and piece together a dummy tank, while the vehicle is up on a lift, to make it easier (be sure to make a mockup driveshaft and axle out of cardboard first, and have it at the max compressed position for clearance validation). Then take cardboard pieces and lay out onto 1/16 inch stainless steel, magic marker around the pieces, cut out, and weld together, remembering to put on the mounting tabs for bolting to frame. Weld on the top vent tube nipple, bottom feed input nipple, and stopcock (faucet) outlet in bottom corner of tank where you can easily reach around rear tire to open and close. Paint the tank with an etching primer for adhesion purposes, then paint with the rubberized roof paint to eliminate rust issues. Drill mounting bolt holes through frame, and affix tank to frame.
Then take length(s) of 1/4 inch heat resistant poly hose, affix to output(s) of the a/c drain vent(s) and run line(s) to the tank, affixing line(s) to frame. affix the input to a diverter valve that has two outputs, (we used a brass home depot hose "Y" connector that also had the two output ends closeable with a stopcock knob.) It was a little fiddly with adapter rings to expand the input lines to the "Y" connector, then back down for the tank input hose. When we do it again, we will just weld on a female hose fitting on the tank to be able to directly screw on the "Y" connector. The bypass drain side we attached a 6 inch hose to, and let it hang down, so that helps keep mud and debris from backing up into the "Y" connector stop valve.
When I do it for my 88 suburban, in a couple of weeks, let me know if any of you are interested, as with a couple of hundred dollars at most materials cost, I could make several at once for a discount of labor costs (will figure out that portion of costs depending on how many wish one. If the same era body style trucks use the same frame shape, then it will fit those also.) Possibly there might be able to makd a generic one that will fit many different vehicles, possibly putting tank inline with a straight frame section?.