Adding a vent to a fiberglass topper/shell roof?

Crom

Expo this, expo that, exp
I am considering adding a roof vent to my A.R.E. fiberglass truck shell. And I created this thread as a sanity check. Has anyone here done this before?

I'd have to cut a hole in the reinforced fiberglass section of the truck shell. I have consulted with A.R.E, the manufacturer and they have assured me that it's just fiberglass and the reinforcement is actually a paper product (like cardbard). They said if I can provide a seal against moisture intrusion, I should be good.

Getting all the details right for a project like this is of paramount importance, water intrusion would be a disaster. One of the complexities is that the roof is not flat, it's convex in all directions from the center point out. For a sealant I was considering 3M's Adhesive Sealant 5200.

Here are some pics of the vent I am considering:

These are called a two-way hingeless aluminum vent. The vent can open in either direction and they are small and aluminum.

IMG_1166-small.jpg


IMG_1162small.jpg


IMG_1163small.jpg

Here is a cross-section picture of what the reinforced section of roof looks like:

Snugtop_Half_Inch_Honeycomb_Insulated_Roof.jpg


Lastly, here is a picture of the shell.

20130210_101106.jpg
 

amo292

Adventurer
I think its a great idea. I look forward to seeing how it turns out so that I can do the same to mine!
 

ripperj

Explorer
I wouldn't hesitate to cut the hole, but if you are sleeping in the bed, I would think a Fantastic Fan or at least a standard 14" square crank up vent for some real airflow

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk 2
 

ripperj

Explorer
I'm actually thinking of hacking a hole and putting a vent in the roof of my 2012 Ram 2500 crew cab. Was just considering a post when I saw yours

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Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
Assuming you are going to through-bolt the vent to the shell, I think the 5200 may a little overkill. A good bead of 3M Silicone Sealant should work just fine.

And, the silicone is much easier to remove, if you want/need to take the vent off the shell for any reason.
 

Crom

Expo this, expo that, exp
Thank you for all the replies. I apprecaite it.

I wouldn't hesitate to cut the hole, but if you are sleeping in the bed, I would think a Fantastic Fan or at least a standard 14" square crank up vent for some real airflow

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk 2

I like your idea. :) However, for my application, I won't be sleeping back there. I am attempting to provide ventaliation to camping gear and really my ARB fridge. Right now I have the little square window in the fold-down slider window, but its not enough, I want the hot air at the top of the shell to be able to escape during the heat of the day.

Assuming you are going to through-bolt the vent to the shell, I think the 5200 may a little overkill. A good bead of 3M Silicone Sealant should work just fine.

And, the silicone is much easier to remove, if you want/need to take the vent off the shell for any reason.

Thank you for the suggestion. Probably a good idea.

I will order the aluminum vent next week.

Any one else care to comment, please do so. Thanks.
 

MotoDave

Explorer
Please post up when you get it installed, I'm interested in this as well. Looking to provide ventilation when under way with a dog in the back, and also as a hot air vent when camping.

I like the fantastic fans, but they stick up quote a lot, I think they'd look really strange on an otherwise plain camper shell.
 

mjmcdowell

Explorer
vent in fiberglass topper.....

On this subject of vents... If you had one mounted close to the cab and ran with it open would it force enough clean air into the topper (when the topper is all closed up) to prevent the ingress of very fine dust into the topper from the tail gate area? This problem is driving me batty!!!! just cannot seem to be able to seal the topper from the "Bull" dust on desert dirt roads. Any thoughts on this? Thanks. mjmcdowell
 

Joe917

Explorer
Do not use silicone!! It is not dependable enough for a roof and when it leaks,because it will, it is almost impossible to remove. Nothing sticks to silicone including more silicone. 3M 4200 will do the job since you don't need much structural strength.
 

Crom

Expo this, expo that, exp
On this subject of vents... If you had one mounted close to the cab and ran with it open would it force enough clean air into the topper (when the topper is all closed up) to prevent the ingress of very fine dust into the topper from the tail gate area? This problem is driving me batty!!!! just cannot seem to be able to seal the topper from the "Bull" dust on desert dirt roads. Any thoughts on this? Thanks. mjmcdowell
Yes. during my search quest, I discovered that ARB makes a truck shell (canopy) in Australia. And they make a vent for it that promises to do just that. try searching for "ARB canopy vent" to see some pics of how it operates.

I too am struggling with dust ingress, and it's frustrating.

Do not use silicone!! It is not dependable enough for a roof and when it leaks,because it will, it is almost impossible to remove. Nothing sticks to silicone including more silicone. 3M 4200 will do the job since you don't need much structural strength.

Thanks. I'll use the 4200.
 

Scott B.

SE Expedition Society
Do not use silicone!! It is not dependable enough for a roof and when it leaks,because it will, it is almost impossible to remove. Nothing sticks to silicone including more silicone. 3M 4200 will do the job since you don't need much structural strength.

Do you have any evidence of this? Not trying to start an internet war, but I use silicone on my boat, and the sealed fittings do not leak.

Is 4200 really easier to remove than silicon?
 

mjmcdowell

Explorer
Reducing dust ingress in topper.....

So........ I have sealed every place I could see light thru........ still I get dust!!!!! Am I to understand that if I were to open my toppers side slider windows at the back side of my topper an inch or so I could prevent some dust intrusion while driving? What about slower speeds? still work? (if it works at all) Any thoughts on this? Thanks. mjmcdowell
 

Joe917

Explorer
30 years in construction and messing around with sailboats.
I have removed far too much silicone used inappropriately. Silicone sticks well to stone, tile, grout etc. Contrary to popular belief it does not stick permanently to gel coat on fiberglass . It makes a great gasket material. The worst deal with silicone is once it fails it mast be removed completely mechanically then chemically before a repair can be done. Nothing sticks to silicone. Some like it I am not one of them, my experience you may feel different.
4200 is not as easy to separate as silicone but it does not need to be completely removed before a reapplication. Note 4200 and 5200 does not work with all plastics.
My point is use the right sealer for the right job, hope this helps,
Joe.
Do you have any evidence of this? Not trying to start an internet war, but I use silicone on my boat, and the sealed fittings do not leak.

Is 4200 really easier to remove than silicon?
 

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