jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
All of the parts yards I go to have both a return policy and a core refund policy, usually 30 days.
4.636 gears from an LS into a gen 2.5 with locker?
- Thread starter nckwltn
- Start date
All of the parts yards I go to have both a return policy and a core refund policy, usually 30 days.
Justice R
Adventurer
Sorry I didn't see this thread in time before you pulled the LS Diff, Mitsu really made it complicated with all the changes. Things vary a lot, and CV sizes also change back and forth between years and Manual and Auto trans etc..The cool thing is you can do a lot of upgrading from JY picks once you decode it all.
nckwltn
Explorer
No worries.... I should have just picked all the parts from the same vehicle to ensure a match... I didn't measure a scientific way, but the axle shaft on the LS is smaller than the shaft on the SR (or the seal is smaller anyway... hopefully I put the right replacement seal into the SR front.
nckwltn
Explorer
No such luck around here. One of the disadvantages of large city....
If I bought the warranty I'd be good, but I didn't spring for the extra 15-20 bucks on the part to have the option to return it in 30 days.
nckwltn
Explorer
well... I'm stuck
I can't seem to get the CV shaft on the passenger side from my 99 to bolt onto the flange from the 94. I can only get one bolt to line up, but none of the others line up at all. I've rotated the CV shaft to try it in each of the 4 positions that it goes to.
Looking at rock auto, the CV shaft replacement piece for the 99 and the 94 both have the same part numbers for the passenger side... leading me to believe it should fit right up.
Is this something that should go really easy, and if it isn't something is wrong? Dropping the front out and putting it back really kicked my butt today. didn't even have a chance to work on the rear.
I can't seem to get the CV shaft on the passenger side from my 99 to bolt onto the flange from the 94. I can only get one bolt to line up, but none of the others line up at all. I've rotated the CV shaft to try it in each of the 4 positions that it goes to.
Looking at rock auto, the CV shaft replacement piece for the 99 and the 94 both have the same part numbers for the passenger side... leading me to believe it should fit right up.
Is this something that should go really easy, and if it isn't something is wrong? Dropping the front out and putting it back really kicked my butt today. didn't even have a chance to work on the rear.
nckwltn
Explorer
it looks like the flange that the passenger side CV shaft bolts onto (the short axle shaft that goes into the front diff on the passenger side) is JUST SLIGHTLY smaller on the 99 compared to the 94... A few taps with the hammer and unbolting the shock at the bottom and the shafts are swapped.
Looks like I'll be able to wrap this project up today! (with any luck)
Looks like I'll be able to wrap this project up today! (with any luck)
nckwltn
Explorer
JUST finished a test ride. In terms of the gears, everything works! Tested a little 4low and nothing sounded like I destroyed montero, so that's a bonus.
now, my emergency brake light is on, even though I don't have the brake on. I did give plenty of slack (or so I thought) in the ebrake line when I had the rear axles pulled. I also did notice that the rear passenger wheel moved a little when I was torquing down the wheel studs (I had the ebrake applied to provide resistance)... so that probably needs to be adjusted. I assumed the light would be triggered to the ebrake lever, but the lever is down, the light is still on.
Also, I noticed when I was taking apart the front, the hockey puck sized thing on the passenger side that has some vacuum hoses attached to it had a hose that leaked what looked/smelled like gear oil dripping from it. This might coincide with my front light flashing in the console... I let the line drip free as best I could, but does anyone know of any good walk throughs on cleaning that system out?
All in all, I think that was WAY more than I bargained for. Could have cut the time if I had someone helping. Had to pull myself out from under the vehicle only to hunt for a socket or hammer or wrench. Had to employ the help of my wife to get both the front and rear set into place. Those things are MONSTERS and crazy heavy, was lucky I didn't have a finger in the way when the rear rolled off my floor jack and hit the floor from a couple of inches off the ground.
If you're reading this, give yourself at least 2 full days to do both. Front is much more time consuming because of all of the extra things that need to be pulled. Rear is pretty easy, and if you're at the junk yard, only 12 bolts and you can start on the housing bolts.
now, my emergency brake light is on, even though I don't have the brake on. I did give plenty of slack (or so I thought) in the ebrake line when I had the rear axles pulled. I also did notice that the rear passenger wheel moved a little when I was torquing down the wheel studs (I had the ebrake applied to provide resistance)... so that probably needs to be adjusted. I assumed the light would be triggered to the ebrake lever, but the lever is down, the light is still on.
Also, I noticed when I was taking apart the front, the hockey puck sized thing on the passenger side that has some vacuum hoses attached to it had a hose that leaked what looked/smelled like gear oil dripping from it. This might coincide with my front light flashing in the console... I let the line drip free as best I could, but does anyone know of any good walk throughs on cleaning that system out?
All in all, I think that was WAY more than I bargained for. Could have cut the time if I had someone helping. Had to pull myself out from under the vehicle only to hunt for a socket or hammer or wrench. Had to employ the help of my wife to get both the front and rear set into place. Those things are MONSTERS and crazy heavy, was lucky I didn't have a finger in the way when the rear rolled off my floor jack and hit the floor from a couple of inches off the ground.
If you're reading this, give yourself at least 2 full days to do both. Front is much more time consuming because of all of the extra things that need to be pulled. Rear is pretty easy, and if you're at the junk yard, only 12 bolts and you can start on the housing bolts.
billygoats
n00b
Glad to hear its working nick! The brake light also comes on when you run low in fluid. Maybe that's the problem. Another good possibility is it became unplugged when you removed the console. The is a switch somewhere by the handle. The lines in the rear don't have anything to do with the light. The vacuum thing is about the size if a soda can. If that's what you are referring to, the that is a vacuum reservoir. There should be no reason any liquid is in there. To clean it out I would think brake cleaner spray as it leaves no residue.
When can we go on a day trip. Id like to hit cleghorn again.
When can we go on a day trip. Id like to hit cleghorn again.
nckwltn
Explorer
BINGO! I didn't see a really obvious way to disconnect the brake line from the shield on the rears, so I disconnected the metal brake line from the flexible bit that goes to the caliper/piston. As such, I had to bleed the brakes a little... shouldn't have been enough to cause the fluid to go low by itself... chances are the fluid needed a top off anyway.
The thing I'm referring to is a hockey puck or flying saucer shaped thing bolted to the front axle shaft on the passenger side. I'll poke around a little more on it this weekend.. still need to do the front rotors.
I'm not going to be free until August... heading out on vacation at the end of next week, will be gone for two weekends
nckwltn
Explorer
I think this is the thing that had a line filled with oil... although it could have been the breather line that feeds into the top of the diff housing. The oil was in there before I pulled the diff off.
When cleaning out the 4x4 flashing lights, these are the areas that are getting cleaned, right? (including the big soup can that site on one of the cross members).
When cleaning out the 4x4 flashing lights, these are the areas that are getting cleaned, right? (including the big soup can that site on one of the cross members).
billygoats
n00b
That thing you are pointing to is the vacuum actuator for the front axle engage/disengage. If your truck is for sure going in and out if 4x4 then the actuator is working. The flashing lights are either a vacuum leak or the 4x4 detection switch on the axle is disconnected or malfunctioned. My replacement axle had a damaged switch. The wires that connected to the back of it broke off. I used my orig switch. Also I forgot to connect the vacuum line they went to the reservoir can shaped thing. Everything still worked except the 4x4 lights would flash in 2wd. They would never turn off. 4x4 and 2x4 worked fine though. After reconnecting, the lights woot like they are supposed to.
nckwltn
Explorer
I only put a few miles on the 33s after they were installed... but with the new gears, it does feel more peppy... I'll probably be much happier I installed them after my next wheeling trip where I'm up at 8k elevation for several days. even on the 31s (worn down to 30.25s) at those high elevations power was pretty low.
Make no bones about it, this was A LOT OF WORK.... I could have done at least 2 timing belt/water pump jobs, probably 3 or 4 in the amount of time I spent on this. I'm glad it's mostly done... but I do need to replace the rear pinion seal. I thought I might have to, and after about 60 miles, the seal area is throwing diff fluid onto the exhaust. Thankfully it's only a few bolts to remove the drive shaft, and then some turns with a leverage bar will knock the nut free. Hopefully I can do it in just a couple of hours.