Looking at Discovery 2's...what should I be prepared for??

[Jamooche]

Sadly this is beyond true. I had to ditch mine (after probably 8k in total mods) because of a constant overheat issue that we couldn't solve without a major overhaul. Yes, we did the radiator, hoses, thermostat, flush, etc...


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Sounds like you need to find a new mechanic. When I traded my 1999 DII, I had just put a ton of money into it and nothing was fixed. The estimates were too high to keep investing in it, and it was my daily driver at the time. Come to find out, had I stayed with my old mechanic near my old apartment I would have learned that it was a simple fix that none of the new shop mechanics figured out. Luckily I now live 7 miles from my old mechanic friend.

Yeah, it's more expensive to fix and less reliable than a Ford Fusion or Honda Civic, but not the end of the world.

 

[Aaron Wasson]

Sounds like you need to find a new mechanic. When I traded my 1999 DII, I had just put a ton of money into it and nothing was fixed. The estimates were too high to keep investing in it, and it was my daily driver at the time. Come to find out, had I stayed with my old mechanic near my old apartment I would have learned that it was a simple fix that none of the new shop mechanics figured out. Luckily I now live 7 miles from my old mechanic friend.

Yeah, it's more expensive to fix and less reliable than a Ford Fusion or Honda Civic, but not the end of the world.

By the time I got rid of it, I was too tired of working on it. I did all the work, but neither I nor the "mechanic" could figure out the issue. After spending 2k in one month trying to find the heating issue, I gave up.


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[Jamooche]

By the time I got rid of it, I was too tired of working on it. I did all the work, but neither I nor the "mechanic" could figure out the issue. After spending 2k in one month trying to find the heating issue, I gave up.


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I hear you. I did all the work on my Series IIA and had to sell it this year so that I could do other things in my life. It just took up too much time.

 

[roverandom]

Get a DI.
They are cheaper to buy.
Cheaper to repair.
Cheaper to modify.
Better off road if you know how to drive.
And easier to work on.

IMO there is nothing about a DII that is much of an improvement over a DI unless you need the extra space in the massive rear overhang or prefer better on road handling.

My 2c.


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[Rovertrader]

Coming from a JK, and never having had a Rover, you should find the nicest example of a D-I (either an '94/'95 or '97-'99), a D-II ('00 or '04), and a LR3('06) and drive them all the same day, whilst taking an experienced Rover geek with you. Folks want to web buy a vehicle that has soul, and it doesn't work!! Take the time to 'feel' each model back to back, and decide which is right for YOU! Minimal investment when compared to searching forever for someone else's perceived best, getting it right, and then selling it and bashing Land Rovers because you didn't do your do diligence...

 

[pugslyyy]

As others have said, the key is maintenance. I wouldn't buy a D2 with less than the 4.6 motor, which limits you to '03-'04 and also gets you the updated styling (headlamps, etc).

Pretty much plan on doing the head gaskets if they haven't already been done. That job is mostly labor so if you do it yourself is actually not that crazy expensive.

We see plenty of Discos break the hearts of new owners - they buy a cheap truck only to find that it needs $6000 of deferred maintenance and repairs to make really roadworthy/dependable. If you can find a good LR mechanic to do a pre-purchase do so. Sometimes you can even find out who is servicing it by pulling a Car Fax.

Also as Dale says, try the D1 and the LR3 - they are great options as well.

 

[slamunion]

As a tech and heavily experienced in the British market, it's a love hate relationship with those things. Parts can be reasonable but cheap parts fail more often than good or OEM stuff. It is not a drive and forget vehicle it will need constant love and maintaining. Imo they are gutless and get poor fuel mileage. They weight a ton in respect to to there size. Common issues, u - joints in driveshafts, head gaskets, tcase lockout solenoid, u can yank these out and no more problem. If I remember it been a few years these have the 3 amigo issue with Abs module again can be bypassed. Mainly good techs that work on British stuff are hard to fine, we are a different breed.

 

[superbuickguy]

As a tech and heavily experienced in the British market, it's a love hate relationship with those things. Parts can be reasonable but cheap parts fail more often than good or OEM stuff. It is not a drive and forget vehicle it will need constant love and maintaining. Imo they are gutless and get poor fuel mileage. They weight a ton in respect to to there size. Common issues, u - joints in driveshafts, head gaskets, tcase lockout solenoid, u can yank these out and no more problem. If I remember it been a few years these have the 3 amigo issue with Abs module again can be bypassed. Mainly good techs that work on British stuff are hard to fine, we are a different breed.

I get why you say this - but I honestly believe the LR D2 is the most overhated 4x4 out there (and I drive an H3, so that's saying something). It's a full-framed, ALUMINUM body'd SUV. When I hauled mine home, it pulled easier than everything but my race-car Corvette - comparatively, it's very light). While, yes, the motor is doubtful, the electronics are terrible, the suspension is pretty good but completely ruined by the wimpy, unliftable axles.... nothing on it can't be swapped for far better parts and you can build it for lunch money - not home refinance money that a JK requires. A dana 44 in the front, a 8.6" in the rear solves the axle problem (okay, I understate, but it's not that hard), a 4.8 or 5.3L LS motor/trans/transfer case out of a full-size GM truck or SUV (along with its dash).... and you've now a very capable, reliable 4x4 that can be fixed at any GM dealership and it will weigh less than 3 tons with all your overland gear aboard.

In short (hehe Lucas electric pun), it's all fixable and you end up with something that is pretty posh while being very light - something that you simply can't buy anymore.

*edit*
I feel I need to quantify my statement about lunch money
JK - 36,000 for a loaded Rubicon, plus another 10-15k for modifications
LR D2, $1,500 for the LR, $3500 for the engine/trans/transfer case and harness, $1500 for programming and adapting (keeping in mind that tank already has the right fuel pump), $1,000 for axles (break down, $200 for both axles, and $800 for the adapters).... all in, you're less than 10 grand...

 

[slamunion]

I get why you say this - but I honestly believe the LR D2 is the most overhated 4x4 out there (and I drive an H3, so that's saying something). It's a full-framed, ALUMINUM body'd SUV. When I hauled mine home, it pulled easier than everything but my race-car Corvette - comparatively, it's very light). While, yes, the motor is doubtful, the electronics are terrible, the suspension is pretty good but completely ruined by the wimpy, unliftable axles.... nothing on it can't be swapped for far better parts and you can build it for lunch money - not home refinance money that a JK requires. A dana 44 in the front, a 8.6" in the rear solves the axle problem (okay, I understate, but it's not that hard), a 4.8 or 5.3L LS motor/trans/transfer case out of a full-size GM truck or SUV (along with its dash).... and you've now a very capable, reliable 4x4 that can be fixed at any GM dealership and it will weigh less than 3 tons with all your overland gear aboard.

In short (hehe Lucas electric pun), it's all fixable and you end up with something that is pretty posh while being very light - something that you simply can't buy anymore.

*edit*
I feel I need to quantify my statement about lunch money
JK - 36,000 for a loaded Rubicon, plus another 10-15k for modifications
LR D2, $1,500 for the LR, $3500 for the engine/trans/transfer case and harness, $1500 for programming and adapting (keeping in mind that tank already has the right fuel pump), $1,000 for axles (break down, $200 for both axles, and $800 for the adapters).... all in, you're less than 10 grand...

D2's arent terrible I agree but like I said they are a love hate relationship. You just need the understanding that you can't compare them to anything else but themselves because they are so different and just take a special understanding. You can pick them up cheap agreed. JK'S which I'll catch crap for are why over price pieces of plastic.

 

[Eric Edwards]

Be prepared for a new engine. My 2003 had an entire engine replacement at under 20K miles. I didn't even have to argue with Land Rover because they had done it so often with other customers. Went to Land Cruiser after... 90K and not a single problem since.

 

[superbuickguy]

D2's arent terrible I agree but like I said they are a love hate relationship. You just need the understanding that you can't compare them to anything else but themselves because they are so different and just take a special understanding. You can pick them up cheap agreed. JK'S which I'll catch crap for are why over price pieces of plastic.

I own both and fully endorse the contents of your post

 

[GaAlpinaowner]

They aren't bad once you replace the motor with a either a GPR or Cannibal V8 or TDI and then after you have replaced almost every seal as they all leak over time. Other than that they are great! Money plan on spending a lot to make it really off road capable. Believe me I love mine now that almost everything has been bulletproofed and either rebuilt or replaced.

 

[roverandom]

I get why you say this - but I honestly believe the LR D2 is the most overhated 4x4 out there (and I drive an H3, so that's saying something). It's a full-framed, ALUMINUM body'd SUV. When I hauled mine home, it pulled easier than everything but my race-car Corvette - comparatively, it's very light). While, yes, the motor is doubtful, the electronics are terrible, the suspension is pretty good but completely ruined by the wimpy, unliftable axles.... nothing on it can't be swapped for far better parts and you can build it for lunch money - not home refinance money that a JK requires. A dana 44 in the front, a 8.6" in the rear solves the axle problem (okay, I understate, but it's not that hard), a 4.8 or 5.3L LS motor/trans/transfer case out of a full-size GM truck or SUV (along with its dash).... and you've now a very capable, reliable 4x4 that can be fixed at any GM dealership and it will weigh less than 3 tons with all your overland gear aboard.

In short (hehe Lucas electric pun), it's all fixable and you end up with something that is pretty posh while being very light - something that you simply can't buy anymore.

*edit*
I feel I need to quantify my statement about lunch money
JK - 36,000 for a loaded Rubicon, plus another 10-15k for modifications
LR D2, $1,500 for the LR, $3500 for the engine/trans/transfer case and harness, $1500 for programming and adapting (keeping in mind that tank already has the right fuel pump), $1,000 for axles (break down, $200 for both axles, and $800 for the adapters).... all in, you're less than 10 grand...

Light is not a word I would choose to describe the curb weight of a Land Rover Discovery II.

The real cost for doing such modifications is many times that of your estimate. If you need huge tyres and huge power then a DII is not a good starting point.




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[superbuickguy]

Light is not a word I would choose to describe the curb weight of a Land Rover Discovery II.

The real cost for doing such modifications is many times that of your estimate. If you need huge tyres and huge power then a DII is not a good starting point.




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okay, I'll bite - what other similar sized Lux SUV weighs less? I weighed the LR - it came in at 4500 lbs, the Jeep (which is far less elaborate and not a lux suv) came in at 4800 without any gear... my H3? same size, 6000 lbs....

I know this sounds arrogant, but it's really not meant to be - I've done a lot of swaps, from simple stuff to needlessly complex (google my screenname), so when I say "this is the cost" it comes not from reading about someone else doing it but from doing it myself. The costs I listed above came from when I was in the decision-making process as to what to do to my LR D2. While I would agree that if you wanted to do it today, it'd be many multiples of that price - however, wise spending and doing the stuff over the course of a year or two and what I quoted actually is probably about 3k high (2k in just the motor itself because I did find a wrecked 2002 Chev 4x4 pickup that I could have gotten for a song that would have had everything but the front axle).

and I just can't leave well enough alone - a bit of a reality based joke - if you're in a place that spells tire tyre, then doing those kinds of routine swaps would be breathtaking in cost and complexity.

 

[roverandom]

I live in Canada but come from England. Hence Tyres, not tires. I build up vehicles all the time too and am familiar with the amount of work involved.

4500lbs for a stock unit is heavy, not as heavy as some domestic NA full sized trucks I will agree but it is not below average for a mid sized SUV ten years ago. Explorer,S10Blazer,4Runner etc.

You can't play the brand new JK Rubicon +' bolt on's R us' card and then claim you can build a rock'in DII for peanuts out of the junkyard as the same costs can equally apply to either vehicle. I could build a JK out the boneyard or a DII out of a catalogue. The main cost difference is the newest DII is ten years old and the JK is still a current model.

A DII is best with only minor modification. If it comes to the point that a totally different engine and axles are needed then its really time for a different base vehicle.

Only in North America do guys overbuild DII's. everywhere else if you want a serious LR you build a Defender or chop up an old Rangie/Disco I into a bobtail or trayback.

If you can keep it light you don't need an uber powerful engine and indestructible axles.






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