On board shower

Tigglebitties

Adventurer
I have a Zodi propane shower that worked very well, but my restless mind knew it could be better. I modified it for 12v constant power and converted it to fit full size propane tanks. I then had the unlimited hot water I wanted plus no batteries!
(This unit is for sale by the way)

But again, I knew it could be better. Propane tank is huge and the shower box is bulky for packing up for week long expeditions. Plus, waiting for that 3 minute goldilocks window between cold tets in the shower and 2nd degree burns was a hassle. It should be easy as home and take up zero space.


I think I've got this perfected now. Here's how to copy my lead!

I'll keep updating this as I complete my install.
Any advice or critique would be greatly appreciated!



The goal here is to build your rig stronger than you are stupid.
 

Tigglebitties

Adventurer
Concept:
Tap into my truck's heater core hose, divert it through a heat exchanger, then back into the truck. Closed loop system allowing me a method if heating water to 190 degrees with no moving parts to act as failure points, plus a bypass to close the heater loop.
yra8a5yv.jpg

40 plate heat exchanger around 100$ in amazon

ysatymen.jpg

Mounted in my tacoma, had to relocate the fuel pump resistor


The goal here is to build your rig stronger than you are stupid.
 

007

Explorer
Subscribed - A lot of people like the heat exchanger for hot water. Its more compact, gets hotter, and doesn't need propane. Despite these advantages, I went with the Eccotemp E5 propane shower (for now). I was worried about adding a possible failure point to my cooling system, and I was also worried about scalding one of my young kids with 190F water!

The failure point, isn't a big deal if you carry all the needed parts and use metal fittings vs. plastic, but I'm interested to see how you regulate the water temperature.
 

Tigglebitties

Adventurer
y2yrepa7.jpg


Controlling manifold

I'm tapping into the supply side of the vehicle heater core.


The vehicle supply hose will be plugged into the port facing left and the red hose will plug into the intake port in the vehicle.

Bypass mode:
Fluid cones from supply hose into port facing left in photo, through the T, blocked by the check valve on bottom, out the red hose and back into vehicle.

Shower mode:
Fluid flows from supply line, info port facing left, three way valve turned to divert through port facing camera in photo
Into the intake port of heat exchanger, our of the output side, to the port facing down in photo, up through check valve and again back to vehicle through red hose.


The goal here is to build your rig stronger than you are stupid.
 

cruiseroutfit

Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
I'm a complete fan (before selling them too ;)) of vehicle mounted heat exchangers. They are not for everybody but they have proven a great asset for many

Sample installation on a customers 80 Series, this uses the factory dash HVAC temp control switch to adjust output temp of the shower, we've done similar installs in Tacoma's and a variety of other Land Cruisers. The end result is a very simple, clutter free setup that doesn't rob valuable under-hood space or create long-term issues.

20140626_173136 (Small).jpg

Here is the install on my 100 Series Land Cruiser:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...000-UZJ100-Land-Cruiser?p=1361851#post1361851
 

Tigglebitties

Adventurer
I'm a complete fan (before selling them too ;)) of vehicle mounted heat exchangers. They are not for everybody but they have proven a great asset for many

Sample installation on a customers 80 Series, this uses the factory dash HVAC temp control switch to adjust output temp of the shower, we've done similar installs in Tacoma's and a variety of other Land Cruisers. The end result is a very simple, clutter free setup that doesn't rob valuable under-hood space or create long-term issues.

View attachment 234412

Here is the install on my 100 Series Land Cruiser:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...000-UZJ100-Land-Cruiser?p=1361851#post1361851

Clean install!
How much would you charge someone to complete a project like this? Parts included- I know I'm gonna get that question & without having completed this I'm not sure what total cost would be either.

Do your installs use a thermostatic mixing valve? & where do you connect those two leads? I'm using the mixing valve because it only has one output in a standard US showerhead fitting size - dirt cheap & easy to replace anywhere you can find a hardware store


The goal here is to build your rig stronger than you are stupid.
 

dogcar3

Observer
I always thought it was more plates for less pressure drop and longer plates for more heat exchanged. I have a twenty plate that is twice as long and is amazing at doing what it is supposed to.
 

Tigglebitties

Adventurer
Why the 40 plate? Is a 10 plate not enough?

The man who made the first 50 cal handgun would have the same answer. Would a .22 work? Probably.

Just my philosophy- overkill the first time and make all systems operate under 70% of capacity & you'll never be left wanting more, or reworking things.

My thinking was
What if I want to put two shower heads on, or if I go to Stagecoach with a kiddie pool & want the greatest redneck hot tub?

Eh. Who knows. Maybe it'll work too well and the mixing valve won't be able to put cold enough water out. I just read a couple complaints about 10 plates & went big.


The goal here is to build your rig stronger than you are stupid.
 
Last edited:

cruiseroutfit

Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
Clean install!
How much would you charge someone to complete a project like this? Parts included- I know I'm gonna get that question & without having completed this I'm not sure what total cost would be either.

That one your seeing is about $500 installed, the bulk of that being the kit, all copper/brass connectors, etc.

Do your installs use a thermostatic mixing valve? & where do you connect those two leads? I'm using the mixing valve because it only has one output in a standard US showerhead fitting size - dirt cheap & easy to replace anywhere you can find a hardware store

This one does not utilize a mixing valve, rather it regulates the amount of coolant traveling through the heat exchanger to regulate output temp. It is not instantaneous change and takes a bit of use to get it perfect for ones temp needs but it is super simple. Now many have utilized anti-scald and mixing valves with the Helton and other heat exchangers, there are even some really install thread here on Mud. For my uses I prefer the simplicity but I can totally understand the want/need to have cold - hot water on demand.
 

mph

Expedition Leader
Helton Shower rocks...Kurt did an awesome job installing mine...Use it all the time!
 

K2ZJ

Explorer
The man who made the first 50 cal handgun would have the same answer. Would a .22 work? Probably.

Just my philosophy- overkill the first time and make all systems operate under 70% of capacity & you'll never be levy wanting more, or reworking things.

My thinking was
What if I want to put two shower heads on, or if I go to Stagecoach with a kiddie pool & want the greatest redneck hot tub?

Eh. Who knows. Maybe it'll work too well and the mixing valve won't be cake to put cold enough water out. I just read a couple complaints about 10 plates & went big.


The goal here is to build your rig stronger than you are stupid.

Thanks. I have seen many people using the tens, and I am cheap, so I will try the ten. Also I have an electric fan I can switch off, so I can get my vehicle water temp to 210 no problem. :)

EDIT: Prices are all over the placce. There are 10's more expensive than some 40's. I did find a long 20 plate.
 

Tigglebitties

Adventurer
Thanks. I have seen many people using the tens, and I am cheap, so I will try the ten. Also I have an electric fan I can switch off, so I can get my vehicle water temp to 210 no problem. :)

EDIT: Prices are all over the placce. There are 10's more expensive than some 40's. I did find a long 20 plate.

Whatever plate you get, go for the longest one you can fit- I hear they're more efficient that way. Find DUDADIESEL on amazon & you'll get the one you need.




The goal here is to build your rig stronger than you are stupid.
 

Tigglebitties

Adventurer
qyryqy6a.jpg

Here's the water pump I'm using. Was a spare for our old motorhome.
It says it can handle up to 40' of head! Which should kick A. for throwing a hose into a stream or whatever water source I can find.



The goal here is to build your rig stronger than you are stupid.
 

Tigglebitties

Adventurer
na9y7ury.jpg

Not bad for handmade with a hacksaw!

uva9uje7.jpg


Thermostatic mixing valve

ytypujap.jpg



Reworked this manifold to cut out the galvanized parts for brass & shrank it down a couple inches
atavadeq.jpg


Play I spy with this one.

Looks almost stock except for the ball valve handle
y7ejy8ur.jpg


Had to test it out by hooking a hose up to the heat exchange side.

IT WORKS!!


Kinda.
Now the tricky troubleshooting part..


The goal here is to build your rig stronger than you are stupid.
 

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