Elk Mountains, CO- Finally

AzTacoma

Adventurer
I say finally because I've been eyeballing the Elks for around 6-7 years now with 2-3 trips that were aborted before launch. So it was definitely nice to get up there and check some of it out, although more time was really needed to do this properly. I supposed we can't ask for everything and I should be happy just to have finally made the trip!

3 Tacomas left Phoenix early July 19 and returned late July 23. Needless to say, a LOT of driving was done those 2 days. Overall it was a fantastic trip and a special treat for a desert rat like myself to roam around on 9000-12500+' trails. I did get a pretty hardcore toothache halfway through the trip and tried to manage the agony as best I could in the backcountry, but it was particularly bad at night when one's focus is limited to the immediacy of the pain. Well this isn't a report about my tooth ordeals so let's get to some pictures!

We stopped at Black Canyon of the Gunnison on the way up:
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Eventually we made it up to the Elk Mountains and entered through Marble. It started to rain pretty good so we didn't dillydally around there too long and we pressed towards Schofield Pass, which was an uncomfortably narrow crawling road through some horrible drop-offs. Maybe I'm loosing my nerve as I get older, but this was more than I expected. "******" must have been uttered at least 15 times as each time the jostling 4x4 or off-camber dips dropped the vehicle towards oblivion made it seem like I was 1 foot or 1 degree away from certain death. I have been on plenty of trails like Black Bear and many others is Colorado, Utah, and Arizona... but for some reason that section this little old wagon road stressed me out! Once on the other side it turns into a graded dirt road and was well deserved relief.

Starting up the pass:
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Passing the Crystal Mill:
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A section of the Punchbowl calm enough for me to take a picture:
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Cresting the pass:
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To be fair, this sign was at the start (along with a couple reminders after that)... definitely a case of truth in advertising:
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We did encounter a plucky Subaru sliding, scraping and spinning his way to the mill. A nice enough guy and part of me admired his determination but I was more annoyed with a solo guy in a solo car pushing the outer reaches of the vehicle's envelope, putting the car and his health at risk of potentially serious damage and then necessitating others like me to extract him out. At least he had the good sense to not pass the mill into the bad section of the pass.

After Schofield we passed through Gothic and Crested Butte and then moved over to Pearl Pass, 12800ft. The last report on Bushducks said it was open as of a couple days earlier. Let me just say that turned out to be a load of horse**** as it was absolutely unpassable at the very top by a 5' snowbank. It was still a nice drive to the top and although that meant not doing Taylor Pass there were other places to go.

Sections of narrow shelf on this too:
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Crooked but cool:
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Blocked:
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I suppose it goes without saying, but the amount of water gushing from these mountains is nothing short of amazing. Creeks, rivers, cascades, waterfalls, several dozen water crossings with some hitting the hood. Wow. Next up was the easy Paradise Basin:
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There is a tremendous amount of Aspen in the Elk Mountains (the town of Aspen in on the north side of the range). This, and the fact that it's often called the "wildflower capital of Colorado" make it extremely popular with photographers.
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Then we did Gunsight Pass. Well, 3/4 of it because it was blocked by snow as well. Not very difficult, but scenic with dozens of tight hairpin switchbacks.
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By now I was starting to get a decent squeaking/grinding sound, probably from a u-joint, but I had no extra vibration or wobble yet. We decided to run the easy Cinnamon Pass through the San Juans on our way back down to AZ.
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Of course the trip came with all the points of interests and cool things that come along with high mountain adventuring, and hundreds of pictures were taken, but I've never been one for long and detailed reports. Perhaps it's the introvert in me that puts out the main idea but prefers to keep the details just for myself.

Comparing the Elks to the San Juans: Comparisons like this are usually pointless, but I thought I'd throw out a personal reflection. While the San Juans tend to be harsh, massive, and majestic, the Elks more gentle contours make it seem a little "softer" and quite pretty. Although it was a busy outdoor playground, tt obvious there is less 4x4 in the Elks, as the high passes tend to be a bit rougher around the edges, not snowplowed, and see less traffic... at least from what I saw. That's both good and bad. I am glad to have finally reached the Elks, but they are so far from home, and it's hard to justify the extra distance when the mighty San Juans are closer. When I go back someday, far down the road, it'll be in the fall to see the amazing colors the Elks are often noted for.
 
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taz223

ExplorationOutfitters.com
Quick question for you if you have time to answer it, we're about to head up to CO/UT for several weeks as a family vacation. Part of our intentions are to visit the Crystal Mill as it's been on both my wife and I's bucket lists for a long time. We'll be in an extremely well built JK pulling a small offroad camping trailer (equally well built). Our intentions aren't to go past the mill, just to get to it for pictures and a quick visit. How is the trail from Marble to the mill? We're not worried about minor wheeling to get there, but we will have our 2 year old in the Jeep with us for this trip and thus I am always looking to limit un-necessary risk. Any insight you can offer would be greatly appreciated!

Beautiful pics by the way!
 

AzTacoma

Adventurer
The trail from Marble to the Crystal Mill is easy for a high clearance 4x4. Your biggest concern will be oncoming traffic because passing is dicey in some stretches. Otherwise you will make it there with little effort, have a great time out there.
 

DRTYTOY

Observer
More Pics :)

That was a great trip bro, Thanks again for the invite. Colorado four wheeling is always a good time. Wish we could have stayed one more day but you were a trooper with the tooth pain and the 12+ hour drive home. Here are some of my pics.

Our first nights camp about 20 miles outside of Silverton. With the fire restrictions in AZ it was awesome to actually have a fire at night and it got pretty chilly for this desert boy.


As AZTACOMA said there was so much water every were and lot and lots of water falls. This one is after the punch bowl, by our second nights camp.


The trail up to Crystal Mill.


The Subi with the "2in lift" that felt he belonged on this trail by him self and his dog :/ he made it to Crystal Mill though.


The town of Crystal


Jack posing :)


The part going up to the punch bowl. Hope fully this gives this road some scale. That's AZTACOMA'S truck on a SUPER skinny road. I'm glad he was going first.


In the punch bowl. I didn't take as many pics as I wanted to because my heart was pumping!!


Going down from Pearl Pass after we got denied by a snow drift.


Near the top of Gun sight pass were we were once again defeated by a snow drift.


Up near Peal Pass.


Great trip but when we go back it will have to be the end of august to try and give the snow enough time to melt.
rest of the album is here.
http://s951.photobucket.com/user/Andy716/library/2014 Elk-San Juan mountians fourwheeling

Ill post up some of the old mans photos when I get a chance to copy them.
- Andy
 
Nice photos. Nice to see the difference as we've also never gone to Elk Mtns. I'd be concerned while pulling our off road trailer on those snow closures. Did you have to back up until you turned around on those ?
 

AzTacoma

Adventurer
Yeah, there are no signs warning if the road is open or closed all the way through, and as I mentioned earlier the reports on Bushducks can be false. On Pearl Pass it was open enough for the three vehicles to turn around with minimal back-up, so we got lucky. On Gunsight Pass we could see patches of snow possibly covering the parts of the trail up the mountain. Therefore, on the first snow approach two vehicles stayed at a wide spot while I ventured up and confirmed it was blocked. I was able to barely turn the vehicle around, but if they had come up they would have had to reverse it down a fairly horrible stretch of narrow, tilted trail... good thing they stayed down while I scouted it. I certainly would not want to be towing a small trailer on any of these high mountain passes, partly because of possible blockage, but even many of the supertight switchbacks would have made towing a trailer a minor circus if the vehicle was any longer than a 2 door Jeep.

We also ran into a Jeep on Pearl Pass that happened to be from Phoenix as well and he was saying he'd just ran Black Bear and Imogene and they were nothing compared to Pearl Pass. I was like, hell... you should go try Schofield next.

This picture from Andy shows the drift on Pearl Pass pretty good:
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Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Nice pictures and writeup.
.
Schofield is definitely not for the faint of heart! I felt my heart racing just looking at those pictures as it brought back the memories of the wife and I doing that route in the other direction (downhill from Crested Butte) in my '99 4runner in 2009.
.
For those asking about the Crystal Mill, yes, as long as you have decent clearance getting to the mill from the Marble side is easy, though it does get a lot of traffic (I call the crystal mill the "Most Photographed Structure in Colorado" because I'm pretty sure it is.)
 

skates04

Adventurer
Quick question for you if you have time to answer it, we're about to head up to CO/UT for several weeks as a family vacation. Part of our intentions are to visit the Crystal Mill as it's been on both my wife and I's bucket lists for a long time. We'll be in an extremely well built JK pulling a small offroad camping trailer (equally well built). Our intentions aren't to go past the mill, just to get to it for pictures and a quick visit. How is the trail from Marble to the mill? We're not worried about minor wheeling to get there, but we will have our 2 year old in the Jeep with us for this trip and thus I am always looking to limit un-necessary risk. Any insight you can offer would be greatly appreciated!

Beautiful pics by the way!

Marble to the mill will be no problem. The full loop (not schofield) is easy as well but does have a lot of switch backs beyond the mill.

Make sure you get some bbq in marble.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

AzTacoma

Adventurer
Thanks!

I think I had it in my head that the Elk passes were easier than the San Juans, so it threw my perspective off when I saw they were pretty legit. And what makes the punchbowl particularly unnerving is the raging torrent of icewater below you. If that same road was anywhere else it wouldn't be very imposing... it's the outrageous surroundings that psyched me out a little.
 

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