At wits end with highway handling issues, I'm out of ideas.

[the_dealer]

Hey guys, most of the Jeep guys can't seem to help me out, since most are used to solid axles. I have a 03 Jeep Liberty Kj, with 195k miles. I've had issues ever since I got the thing with the way it handles. It has OME coils and bilstein struts & shocks, Moog lower bj's, Moog UCA's, new Mopar rear LCA's, Moog rear UCA (stock is a Triangulated 3 link style rear), new calipers, Powerstop rotors&pads, reman'd rack(Detroit axle) and pinion, Moog inner & outer tre's, and new front unit bearings(Detroit axle) I did all the above parts when I did the lift. I've also had it aligned about 3 times. Handling has been the same pre lift and post lift. The thing is all over the road, and pulls to the left. It feels like I'm constantly fighting a cross wind. The more pronounce the crown of the road is, the worse it is. I get s slight steering wheel shimmy as well over about 45 mph. Replacing the parts I mentioned was part of my build plan (start with a fresh suspension), so it's not like I was just dumping money into it.

I used the same alignment shop every time, but I'm starting to think maybe that's the problem. There's alot of guys running the same setup as me with no problems. The front LCA bushings look like they've seen better days, and that is the only thing suspension/Steering that hasn't been replaced. I also just bought new tires about 150 miles ago(seemed to help noticably). I want to replace the front LCA bushings, but if that wouldn't cause my issues I'd rather wait. At the same time, I don't want to get an alignment somewhere else hoping for a fix, then have to do the LCA's and do it again (caster/camber adjustment is on the lca). There is absolutely no play in the steering, and everything is nice and tight.

Does anyone have any ideas on what could be causing these issues? I look like a drunk driver, and it gets a little hairy in heavy interstate traffic. Could it be cross camber causing this? It doesn't look like the lca camber/caster bolts have been touched. Btw, I'm getting no funny noises, popping or clunking either

 

[karma11]

A friend of mine had a jeep wrangler and did a lift kit, and afterwards described very similar things that you have. it turns out that he forgot to put in some of the bushings. i dont recall which ones but once he put them in, it was fixed drove like brand new. i hope that helps.

 

[Kmrtnsn]

What you don't mention that might be useful is your tire size, type, load rating, and inflation, new and old. How big a lift? We're geometry correction brackets or similar used on the front? Another factor to consider, especially in a short wheelbase vehicle is whether your modifications have altered the center of gravity, or more specifically the center of pitch axis (think fore/aft weight distribution). Moving a few percentage points from front to rear can have a significant effect on vehicle handling. Loose suspension components, like control arms, can significantly affect suspension dynamics during turning and braking, or in response to road conditions.

 

[the_dealer]

Old man emu, which net about 2.5". Its ifs, so there isn't any correction brackets or anything. Tires are 245/75 wild country xtx d load. Stock tires were 235/70. Problem was there before and after the lift and tires. Problems were also there before and after all the replacement parts I mentioned.

I've tried everything between 32 to 37 psi with no change besides gas mileage and ride quality

 

[Jakes01234]

I am not all that familiar with the liberty platform but I would check the rear control arm bushings and also the steering box. Make sure both are nice and tight. If you can get an alignment at a different shop that may see auto x cars or lifted trucks would be a good idea. Then post up the print out of the alignment. Always get a print out.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[stioc]

Alignment can be a huge factor in what you're describing, specifically toe-in (caster can help too but most can't be adjusted). When I lifted my truck the toe was messed up and two shops later I had the same problem as you, wandering on the road, nervous/skittish feeling etc. I finally did the alignment myself using the string method (I used to do it on my race cars in the previous life so I had experience). I set the toe-in to 1/8" on each side (factory specs call for 1/16" each side, but I'm ok with a slightly faster tire wear if I can get more stability out of it) and now the truck is completely transformed- very smooth turn-ins, no more wandering on the roads especially compared to the nervous wreck it was before.

 

[Hilldweller]

Try 30 psi cold.

How did the old tires look? Wear pattern.
And I'm curious about the toe adjustment too.
Are the wheels stock?

 

[98dango]

If caster camber is on the lower and the bushings are bad on the lower I'd say we have a very good idea where to go.

 

[RubiconGeoff]

It sounds like you've replaced all the usual problem areas, but an alignment won't hold if you have sloppy control arm bushings. I presume rotating the tires hasn't made any difference? After replacing the worn control arm bushings, I'd recommend trying a different alignment shop - one that specializes in modified 4x4s if you have one in your area, because their techs can usually be counted on to be more technically oriented and oftentimes have more SAE training than a stereotypical bargain alignment shop's minimum-wage lackey.

 

[the_dealer]

I'm thinking I'll take it to the guys that do my dad's lifted f150. He's pretty ocd, so I'm sure they have been doing it right for him. Tires have been rotated just to see, but they are literally brand new. The old tires seemed worn evenly buy they really didn't have many miles on them. I'm still on factory wheels.
Stioc, I use that method on my solid axle axle jeeps with no problems. In fact the only time my tj ever saw an alignment shop was so I could get see the difference between actual, and where I was checking on the front axle (so I could be accurate when setting up adjustable arms).

 

[LR Max]

Sounds like a bushing issue.

Also check to make sure your rims are straight. Apparently my rims have been bent for the last 10 years then finally someone said I had bent rims.

Now whenever I get new tires, I specify to check the wheels. Having straight wheels makes a huge difference.

 

[the_dealer]

Yes, I had an issue with some summit brand rims on my tj. All 4 were severely out of round fresh out of the box. Took a long time to figure it out. I watched the tire shop put just the wheels on the balancing machine to check for me.

I'm going in to have the alignment checked today. Some knowledgeable guys that deal with lifted KJ's told me what to have them look for, and what for them to not do. I'll post results later today

 

[LR Max]

Best of luck. I've recently run into a similar frustration. Keep working on something, spending money...and still have the same problem at the end of the day. Its miserable.

 

[redthies]

You mentioned that you had the same is due pre lift as well, and that you've changed everything EXCEPT lower control arm bushings... Hmmmm. I think I know what I'd try next! I'd change the bushings, and then try a different alignment shop (if you have reason to suspect the one you are using now may be getting it wrong).

 

[INSAYN]

Just for sanity, measure your frame height at each point where the suspension is mounted to the frame down to a smooth level ground surface. Checking for a possible bent frame.
Look along the frame for any cracks in the event your frame is damaged and giving some unnecessary added flex.

Drop a plum bob from each corner of your frame and measure them in an "X" pattern. Should be damn close to the same length, unless bent to one side or twisted enough to offset the axle mount location.

If you can set your rig on even blocks with the wheels removed, measure your each of the front axle hub centers to each rear axle hub center. Checking for axle alignment to the frame, as well as a possible bent axle.

Then lift the vehicle and safely support the weight of the frame with several jack stands on each end of the Jeep. With the wheels still off, tug, push, pull and see if you can detect any free play in anything. Steering, bearings, suspension, hangers, anything that allows movement.