removable tongue - yes or no?

cparkerc

Observer
I am finally about to start my off road trailer build. I originally planned to have a removable tongue for storage purposes, but I remember reading some downsides to that plan on this site. Can't find anything using the search box.

What are your opinions?

Thanks
 

rnArmy

Adventurer
How about a telescoping tongue? One made with 2" outside square tubing (receiver tubing) that slides through a larger outside "diameter" tube that forms the backbone of your trailer? You could set it up so you could adjust the length from all the way flush with the tray on the front of your trailer (for storage mode) to about three feet or so out. You could drill the 2" receiver tubing so that you could adjust the length by "X" amount of inches out (say 18", 24", 30", 36") using a 54" piece of 2" receiver tubing (so even at 36" out you'd still have 18" of receiver tubing inside the larger tubing). You would want the larger tubing drilled so there were always two hitch pins securing the receiver tubing in the larger tubing (at least for towing purposes).

And of course with the tongue being a long piece of 2" receiver tubing, you would have your choice of couplers: ball mount, lunette ring, or some sort of multi-axis hitch.
 
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What rnArmy said. I had Manley build my coupler like this. The frame has a receiver in it and then you use 2" square stock to build the extra length into the coupler.

The traditional Manley ball coupler is welded to 12" stock, I had them build it with 48" stock and drill both ends for the pin. Because of the design of the frame, I can telescope the coupler in and out depending on my needs. The coupler also pulls completely out of the receiver and I can store the whole thing in the bed of the trailer when it's stored in my garage.

As stated before, you can also swap to different coupler types with this setup.

The Manley has the tongue deck but even if you didn't have the deck you could still build the tongue and coupler this way, as long as the frame would accommodate it.

14515497612_7cd1391079_z.jpg

14330143847_c00d97b8cc_z.jpg
 

INSAYN

Adventurer
I did the 2" receiver tube for two reasons on my trailer build.

1. To extend the tongue one foot for added clearance for towing it when there are kayaks on the trailer as well kayaks on the truck. Without it the kayaks would kiss on turns.
2. To make it removable for better fit in the garage, and more anti theft. The hitch pin is way under the aluminum truck box.

P7010033.jpg


P6170001.jpg
 

Xtreme XJ

Adventurer
How about a telescoping tongue? One made with 2" inside square tubing (receiver tubing) that slides through a larger outside "diameter" tube that forms the backbone of your trailer? You could set it up so you could adjust the length from all the way flush with the tray on the front of your trailer (for storage mode) to about three feet or so out. You could drill the 2" receiver tubing so that you could adjust the length by "X" amount of inches out (say 18", 24", 30", 36") using a 54" piece of 2" receiver tubing (so even at 36" out you'd still have 18" of receiver tubing inside the larger tubing). You would want the larger tubing drilled so there were always two hitch pins securing the receiver tubing in the larger tubing (at least for towing purposes).

And of course with the tongue being a long piece of 2" receiver tubing, you would have your choice of couplers: ball mount, lunette ring, or some sort of multi-axis hitch.

X 3 I went all the way to the rear cross member... tying the front to the rear making as mentioned a backbone as well as the other mentioned benefits.
Also there is the option to move the draw bar from the front to the rear (temporarily) should one get into a tight spot.
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
How about instead of completely removable, you make it more like the M101 tongue, which is intended to unpin from under the trailer and fold up against the front of the trailer I think. The legs of the tongue that extended back under the trailer become the feet. Then your trailer in storage is only as long as the box. ??

Like this, but this is an A2 trailer, so the hydraulic brake actuator hits the front of the trailer...
(See more pics at Steelsoldiers here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?78223-What-the-M101-was-designed-to-do)
attachment.php

Chris
 

cparkerc

Observer
Thank you for the ideas and opinions, I appreciate it. It is a go with the removable tongue!

Looking at the Lock N Roll hitches, which option would I put on the trailer? I don't see one that seems to work???
 
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Xtreme XJ

Adventurer
Thank you for the ideas and opinions, I appreciate it. It is a go with the removable tongue!

Looking at the Lock N Roll hitches, which option would I put on the trailer? I don't see one that seems to work???

I used the receiver stock out at the end of the drawbar... this way I could use a couple different set ups ... LnR (or Max or ?) a standard 2" ball... offers more flexibility... both in the drawbar length as mentioned & in the the way it's couples to the rig.
 

Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
I did that on my trailer, built it about 15 years ago, I can remove the coupler and pull it with the lawn tractor or hook up for the road. I remove it so it's always where I leave it.
 

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