Lift Block Questions

TwoTrack

Buy Once, Cry Once
Some quick background info. I have a 2005 Tundra with OME 885's up front and a deaver AAL and Hellwig 991's out back. My load carrying capacity is great but my static stance height is an inch or so lower than I would like. I know that a set of custom springs is the right way to fix it but for the short term I'd like to use a 1.5" lift block.

My question:

What is the best type blocks to use? I actually ordered a set of cast iron blocks from Wheeler's but the more I've been reading I'm wondering if I should have gone with a solid T6 aluminum set such as the ones sold by Toytec?
 

155mm

Adventurer
Lots of people hate on lift blocks, but lots of manufacturers use them on the rear leaf suspensions for their 4x4 models (or at least Ford does, with their Super Duties and half-tons). As long as you don't go too crazy (and you're not), the horizontal motion won't be too bad.

Stick with the cast iron, those tend to be tougher.
 

TwoTrack

Buy Once, Cry Once
I agree that as long as the block isn't huge then the negative effects should be minimal if any. The Tundra has a thick overload spring anyway. I'm just unsure after a ton of research which material/design is better.
 

155mm

Adventurer
Well side by side, steel is generally stronger than aluminum. However, depending on the grades, some aluminums are stronger than some steels.

I think you'll be fine either way as long as you purchase a quality product that has good reviews from a reputable manufacturer.
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
Are your shackles at the rear of the springs set up in such a manner that putting longer ones on would give you a bit of lift? If so, I'd suggest going that route.

My beef with blocks is not them possibly disintegrating, but rather they increase the leverage of the axle against the leaf springs, causing a greater tendency for wheel hopping (especially if you should break traction at all).

That said, if it's one inch additional you need, you'll probably be fine with blocks (nodular iron is the way to go, and is what Ford OE ones are made from)
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
The BEST way to do it is with someone's "zero rate add-a leaf" kit, which is basically lift blocks that you bolt to the spring with a new longer centering pin. (Google it...) That way they can't spit out, which is the worry with most lift blocks, secondary to increasing axle wrap/hop. (You're not likely to notice any additinal hop with a 1" block and the springs you're running.)

Also, you may want to check pinion angle and see if you need a tapered lift block, or a square one. If your driveline isn't vibrating right now, then a parallel block is needed. If it is, then you need a tapered one, or a degree shim, but you have to measure. Though I've used them, I'm not a fan of the aluminum degree shims that are normally sold... If you can do the same thing by milling the blocks to the right angle in the first place, that's a better plan!
Good Luck!!
Chris
 

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