Newfoundland T'railway..... #OverNL

tuckertj

Observer
An entie day later than initially planned, we managed to depart my apartment around 2pm on Tuesday July 22nd. Destination? St. Johns NL (or as close as possible).

Numerous factors had led to our late departure. Last minute touch-ups, prep, inspecting the Jk's and of course, tardiness (late arrival from Burgeo by Lindy). All of that no longer mattered now, the trip we were in talks about for almost a year was finally happening. OverNL had begun.

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Before leaving town, we had to run a few last minute errands. Our first stop was to a local grocery store to purchase food. After filling our coolers, I had a last minute idea that I needed a more durable storage tote. That led to a trip to Canadian Tire to purchase a 90L Action Packer. Luckily Canadian Tire has a gas bar and we were able to fill our tanks at the same location. Finally before hitting the highway, we agreed that we had regretted not designing a vehicle decal for our trip. Now this isn't a major deal but let's face it, decals are cool, fun to look at, and will give some people an idea of what two outfitted Jeep Wranglers are doing driving across the Newfoundland T'railway. Knowing that it would set us significantly farther behind if we searched the town for auto detailer, one of us looked up and spotted a Staples store. Twenty minutes and eight dollars later, we were sporting brand-new #OverNL decals.

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Our first stop was a mere 10km away to meet a friend. Once there, Lindy borrowed a drill from our buddy and popped a hole in the side of his expo trailer to give easier access to the intake of his water system. Once that was done we picked up some beverages and ice at Georges Ski-World in Steady Brook and hit the road. The closest place the Newfoundland T'railway picked back up was Deer Lake, which was 50km away. 50km of pavement driving to begin our journey was not something we wanted to do. Lucky for us, with a little research and past conversations with other expo members we heard about a back road from Humber Valley Resort to Deer Lake via Goose Arm Road. We drove the highway for 7km and finally got our tires on the dirt at the Humber Valley Resort. A quick air down and we departed the valley around 5pm. This trail was approximately 50km, the same as the paved highway but with an average speed of 20km/h vs. 100km/h we estimated the route could take 3 hours rather the 30min!

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The road between Humber Valley and Deer Lake proved to be a better idea than we both could have imagined. The weather was great, clear skies and 30 degrees. This opened up some great scenery. We expected the road to be fairly well maintained and easy to drive but to our surprise there were several obstacles. These weren't anything too challenging but enough to put the JK in 4WD, disconnect the sway bar and keep the trip exciting. Our first obstacle was a small brook crossing because the bridge over it was no longer safe. Shallow water and a solid bottom allowed us to cross with ease and not tear up the terrain or our vehicles. There were several other washouts and bridge closures along the way but nothing a lifted JK on 35's couldn't handle with relative ease. Approaching the end of the trail and nearing Deer Lake, the GPS was showing a water crossing coming up. I can easily say that there was little debate between us in deciding to give it a go. Once we eased into the brook we quickly discovered that this was a local swimming hole! Safe to say seeing two JK's with one towing an expedition style trailer was not something a couple of local's expected to see that evening! We quickly apologized for startling the swimmers and slowly crossed the swimming hole. They snapped a couple of pictures during our crossing and after seeing the smiles on their faces, we're confident in saying they didn't mind our surprise visit.

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From there we soon entered Deer Lake via Goose Arm road and a cold beverage was on both of our minds. It was now approaching 8pm but time was nothing more than just a number to us. We stopped at a local bar “Langers” for a single spice & 7. Taking full advantage of our resources, we also enjoyed some free popcorn before hitting the road.

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It was now finally time to start what we had signed up for! We first hit the Newfoundland T'railway at 8:30pm on Tuesday July 22nd. We didn't travel far that night, just to Howley. Driving up to this point had been relatively easy. We weren't travelling fast, but it was to be gentle on both our vehicles and the terrain. The largest obstacle of the day presented itself soon after starting the T'railway with a fairly steep hill climb on the easterly side of our Main Damn crossing in Deer Lake. After crawling up the hill we continued on for about 20km and stopped for the night. After using half a can of insect repellent and putting on long sleeves, we were able to set up a decent camp. On the dinner menu that night was none other than a classic cheeseburger. It had been a long day and the simplicity of a burger and beer made it the perfect way to end the evening. After a couple of burgers and a few cold drinks we were both exhausted and ready for bed. We decided to call it a night and start fresh in the am. Tomorrow marked the start of our trek through the backcountry of Newfoundland. Day 2 of OverNL was set to begin bright and early.


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kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
Im glad that route around the opposite side of deer lake worked. I eyeballed that on google earth and said, im doing that!. Well......IM DOING THAT!.....

Looking forward to the rest of the report.
 

tuckertj

Observer
Day 2: A trek across the Gaff Topsails and Central Newfoundland

To start, I'd like to apologize for the late update. It has been a busy end to the summer!


Day 2: A trek across the Gaff Topsails and Central Newfoundland.

Large day. Too bad displacement never always equaled distance travelled. That being said, we were proud of our accomplishment thus far. Other than stopping for food/beverage and an Action Packer to rearrange the weight distribution of Lindy's expo trailer, we made it Bishops Falls via the NL T'railway.

I awoke on Day 2 roughly 9:30am. Sunny skies, light breeze…perfect for a trek across the island. At this point, Lindy was already up, ate, and did some early morning exploring, so I quickly whipped up a breakfast burrito (thanks for the recipe expedition portal) and packed up my gear. I poured up a hot coffee for the road and we managed to depart roughly 11:00am.

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Only leaving from Howley on Day 2 of our trip, we knew we had to make up some serious ground today. Although neither of us spoke about the pressure to clock some serious kilometers, it was clear that the goal today was to travel as far as possible while minimizing damage. The NL T'railway had been very forgiving thus far, with no serious obstacles other than a few narrow sections. Because of our tight schedule, we liked it this way and hoped it would continue.








5 hours later, I gaze down at my odometer and realize we have travelled a mere 100km. So much for picking up the pace! Although we only managed an average speed of 20km/hr, it was an amazing experience filled with numerous sights a camera would never justify. We drove past a group of old cabins only to later learn were actually the camp for the workers during the construction of the rail bed. We approached the summit of the NL T'railway at 1320hrs. The summit is roughly 1550 feet of elevation. A little while past the summit we came up upon a cabin that was actually constructed from one of the old train cars! Safe to say we took a little pit stop and captured a few pictures of the awesome conversion.























At 3:00pm we broke out into Millertown Junction. Even with our stomachs starting to rumble, we decided to make a run for Badger. The T'railway was almost addictive, and neither of us wanted to be the guy who requested a break from it. Maybe it was the scenery, maybe it was the thrill of travelling across unknown territory…whatever it was, our motivation was at an all time high to complete our journey. After enjoying another great 90 minutes of exploring, we break out into the town of Badger at 4:30pm. At this point hunger trumps everything and we stop into a local establishment for a cold beer and hearty meal.











After filling our bellies and cooling off from the heat outside, it was time to develop a plan for the rest of our day. We still had quite a bit of daylight left, and wanted to use it wisely. At this point of the T'railway, the TCH runs parallel and is in sight for quite a few kilometers. It was now decision-making time. Do we stay strong to our routes and continue the T'railway no matter how close to the TCH it gets? Or do we use this opportunity to gain some crucial time? In the end we opted for the time saving route…the TCH. So with that decision made it was as good as time as any to stop and check out the Jeeps, all is good, so far.










Ironically, we ran into a bigger issue on the TCH than we did thus far travelling on the dirt. Once up to speed, Lindy discovered his trailer was too tail-heavy and was swaying from side to side. We decide to pull over and attempt to rearrange the trailer's weight distribution. This change improves the trailer, but not quite enough to get the JK up to the speed limit. Pulling over once again we perform a quick search on our IPhones and discover that Canadian Tire in Grand Falls isn't far away and there we could purchase another 30L Action Packer. This will allow Lindy to rearrange his gear and finally balance the trailer. We decide to stay on the TCH and make a run for Canadian Tire in Grand Falls.





Back on the track just outside of Grand Falls we begin to realize the sun was setting and we should start thinking about finding camp. We considered pulling in to a truck stop for no reason other than a new experience (for Nolan) but eventually opted to find a place off road. We found a nearby wood-road just outside of city limits and traveled down a few kilometers until we found a nice cut-away. I decided to give my shower system a pilot run and then set up the chuck box to make dinner. The menu tonight was Frying Pan Pizza. Although it was already dark and we were in the middle of a province wide fire ban, Lindy has some pretty impressive Rigid D2's on his JK so we had plenty of light and ultimately enjoyed a great dinner along with a couple of cold beverages.














A short time later we are both feeling tired after a long day of travelling. After a few more drinks we discuss our options for the next day and decide to hit the hay. Tomorrow we would shoot for St. Johns (or as close as possible).
 
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kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
I spent ALOT of time on the Gaff. I am always up around there, and a lot of different central newfoundland areas. Its great exploring here. look forward to seeing more.
 

Wilbah

Adventurer
Great writeup and pics thanks!! A couple of questions- would a fullsize be able to navigate this (seems like as an old railbed it would be reasonably level- worried more about bridge outs and width)? Form what I've read its being restored/maintained for bikes, ATV's snowmobiles etc. did you have any difficulty with the width beyond branches/brush which showed in a couple of your pics? Thanks again! Looks like a great trip!
 

nalshort

New member
Great writeup and pics thanks!! A couple of questions- would a fullsize be able to navigate this (seems like as an old railbed it would be reasonably level- worried more about bridge outs and width)? Form what I've read its being restored/maintained for bikes, ATV's snowmobiles etc. did you have any difficulty with the width beyond branches/brush which showed in a couple of your pics? Thanks again! Looks like a great trip!

Thanks! Technically the T'railway is now maintained for ATV's and bikes, yes. That being said, the T'railway is the only access for many people travelling to their cabins so we ran into no issues on our trip. I believe it is more enforced the further east you go. Difficulty wise, from what we drove, the trail is just wide enough for a full size vehicle. Every bridge we crossed was also plenty wide, with no washouts, although I heard some bridges out east were purposely narrowed to keep full size rigs out. Luckily, if you're out exploring and run into a narrow bridge/obstacle, the T'railway meets up with the TCH in many locations! Bring lots of fuel, tread lightly and play the "tourist" card and you should be okay!
 

tuckertj

Observer
Day 3: Overland vs. Road-Trip


There seems to be a common idea that in order to “overland”, one must first obtain a highly modified 4X4, get a passport and set out on a 6-month journey in a foreign country. Luckily for us, and anyone reading this little trip report, this isn't true. Overlanding is entirely what you make it. It can be weekend get away with friends just outside your own backyard, or a 6-month journey along the Pan-Am trail. Whatever the goal is, just head out and do it. I promise if you keep an open mind, you wont regret it. For us, the goal was simple. Travel across Newfoundland while using as much of the old Railway bed as possible. Up to this point we had been very successful reaching our goal. The route thus far consisted of almost entirely travelling via dirt. Every turn in the trail was a new experience and the thought of a possible washout or obstacle just made it better. Day Three was here now though and our anti-pavement streak would soon come to an end.

8:30am. The sun is beaming through a crack in my homemade curtains I had borrowed from Lindy the night before. Before long the JK is heated up to a point I had to exit to get some fresh air. Once up, I realized Lindy was still in his bunk so I decided to throw on some coffee and tidy up around camp. Soon after the stove was fired up, Lindy emerged from his Jeep and we had a simple breakfast of bacon and hash browns before departure. We filled our stomachs, cleaned our dishes and headed out for day three.

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After pulling over, a quick look at the map told us we were only a few kilometers from Gander. The T'railway at this point runs roughly parallel with the highway and only about 20 feet to the side. It was still early but we agreed for the sake of only being 20 feet from the highway and possibly looking like fools, we would hop on the pavement and get some early kilometers under our wheels. We did this off and on until we stopped into a gas station parking lot at the beginning of Gander for a stretch. While we were stretching our legs, a local approached us in a Silver JK and asked about our trip. He was impressed and stated he would love to do the same run. We continued to chat for roughly 30min and we then went our separate ways. He did mention a local trail he knew about that went from the highway, down towards Gander Lake. Of course we agreed to try the trail and travelled down as far as it was possible. Once there we decided to fire up the stove and enjoy a couple chicken wraps for lunch.

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Now I'm not an expert traveler by any means, but I am confident in saying that the best part of any trip is the journey itself. Driving shouldn't be stressful. It doesn't have to be fast, difficult, or cover hundreds of kilometers each day. A rule of thumb for us is to always take the road less travelled, if time allows. Other than that, don't focus only on the destination, just sit back and enjoy the ride.





After filling our stomachs with our go-to meal, we relaxed and started brainstorming about the next and possibly final leg heading east. It was only a few hundred kilometers before the start of the Tera-Nova Park and trekking through the T'railway at that location we assumed was frowned upon. Ironically, we also heard on the radio that a few hooligans out east decided to take their ATV's out on the railway bed and tear up the trail. Now while we never seen anything with our own eyes, behavior like this usually results in hurting other peoples plans…in this case, ours. Despite always following “Tred-Lightly” principles, we decided we would avoid this section of the trail to abide by the radio recommendation. Time to air back up to pavement pressures and move along.

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The next thing I realize is that we are in Clarenville. Its approx. 1800hrs, we have only been travelling since mid afternoon. This change in pace really played on our minds. Up until this point we were averaging 30km/h at the most. Even with Lindy's JK hauling a trailer we were now trekking along at a solid 80km/h. At that point we pulled over for a quick red-bull, and spoke about our travel plans. We both agreed we were much more content on the dirt, but at the same time did not want to draw any negative attention. We still weren't 100% sure on the status of the T'railway this far east so that was no longer an option either. We finally agreed that we did not care which route we took into St. Johns, as long as it was one neither of us had tried before. With that we begin to look for what we thought would be the most scenic route possible. Soon enough, we agreed we would enter through Bay Bulls. We also agreed that if we seen any dirt/trails that were aiming even remotely East, we were attempting them. The curiosity bug was strong again, and neither of us had the will power to ignore it.


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Just minutes after taking the Bay Bulls exit we were more content. Even the highway here was a simple single lane, Speed Limit of 80 (If I recall correctly). Before I knew anything else I see Lindy's passenger side signal light flashing…Back to the dirt!

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Lindy while never being here before in his life, somehow found a well-maintained side road that ran almost parallel with the highway. We were back in our niche, slowly trekking across the dirt, just before sunset. I remember sitting back and taking in all the sights and scenery when something caught my eye that was out of place… Lindy's spare tire somehow managed to remove itself from his trailer, fall out, and was now racing up the trail in front of both Lindy and myself. Luckily for us, the tire decided to stop after a couple hundred feet because at this point we were both too busy laughing to even attempt to chase it.

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When we finally settled down enough to retrieve and remount the spare tire we got back on the move. We were getting close to our destination (My sisters place in St. Johns) when we noticed one more trail heading across a Telephone/Power line that took us back to the highway, just before our appropriate exit. There was no question we would attempt this. It was almost dark, we were tired, and to be honest the liquor store was only an hour from closing but we had to finish our trek “on top”.

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3 minutes later I see the bright reverse lights of Lindy's Jk and trailer light up. Less than 200 feet to the shoulder of the highway and we were now stuck. I was just about to swing the JK around and get a strap out of the recovery box when I see Lindy's 4dr JK, locked front and rear, crab walking up and out of the mud hole. “Go Go Go!" I yelled as he slowly crept past me, careful not to loose momentum. As excited as we were heading into the pole-line, a recovery mission at this point would completely drain us. Luckily, I finally see Lindy top the hill, and have his jeep back on solid ground. “ I guess a little move pavement wont hurt…”


“Cheers”. It's roughly 2300 hours, and we re cracking cold refreshments at my sister's place in St. Johns. We made it. It wasn't exactly as planned, pretty far from it actually but that's all part of it. Neither of us could have envisioned our trip panning out this way but we were now at our destination, content as could be, and avoided any damage to our vehicles. The next few days proved to be a little less “off grid” as we visted our favorite places like Princess Auto and the obligatory George Street visit. Some things never changed however as we slept on our camping mattresses and ate our go-to chicken wraps, even if this meant firing up the camp kitchen just outside my sister's door.
 
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tuckertj

Observer
“How are we getting home?”

A question we were both thinking but did not want to say aloud. The fact was we invested all of our planning into heading east and almost completely neglected returning back to the west coast. We now had time constraints, which meant we had 1 day to return, 2 at the absolute maximum. It was also important to note that Lindy had to return to Burgeo, which also worked for me due to the fact it’s my hometown and my parents still reside there. Seeing we would both end the trip in Burgeo we decided to take a detour across central Newfoundland via Abitibi Price Road, and old logging and resource road that takes you from Buchans/Millertwon to a turn-of only 100km outside of Burgeo. While this route may not save much time, it saves something much more important…Fuel! This road isn’t “new” to either of us however I have never stopped and visited the Maurice Mills Dam (part of the Star Lake Hydroelectric Project) prior on my travels. Safe to say, I was missing out! The dam is only a short detour off the main route and once you get to witness it, it is well worth the added time in your trip. Once there we snapped a few pictures, took in the views as much as possible and then unfortunately, resumed our travels. A short time later, in the complete darkness of the night, we emerged on the pavement, just 100km outside of Burgeo. Me JK was still in the early modification stages at this time so every time I was in need of air, I had to borrow Lindy’s Air Compressor. Lucky for me, his unit is portable so airing back up to pavement pressures was a breeze.


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Once we were back up and running, we drove into the darkness, for the final 100km of our first “expedition” that we actually planned. Seeing was never an issue with Lindy running a healthy supply of Rigid Industries LED Lighting. Those final 100km was spent mainly focusing on the road, while catching myself already reminiscing about the past week. We both grew up always outdoors and camping so it should be no surprise that this trip was a highlight of the summer. But something else happened that trip. I came to the realization that I am most content while sitting behind the steering wheel of my Jeep, facing the open road. It doesn’t have to be a lengthy trip, or even somewhere completely new. Just knowing I am outdoors and have the ability to drive wherever I want gives me the freedom I’ve always desired.
#OverNL
 

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