Flippac torsion bar

dman93

Adventurer
The link that Austintaco mentions is what inspired me to do my own calculations. The problem with the long crank, is that just like with the long helper poles that are part of the "delete" design, there's still a lot of inertia when the lid falls. So the crank will spin around fast unless you're holding on tight and using your weight to slow its rotation, and that fast spinning crank could be hazardous. However, the standard support rods are barely adequate to support the weight of the lid and occupants with no t-bar. After all, the t-bar does support the weight of the lid itself, so the support bars are only covering the extra weight of occupants. And I think the strength of the support bars does depend on the exact location and orientation of the clips on specific vehicles. On myT100, the clips angle out, as the sheet metal surface they attach to is not vertical, so the load applies an outward twist as well as the direct downward force. I usually try to set my lifting poles on the ground as secondary supports for the lid- in addition to having the foam block on the roof. Belt, suspenders, and duct tape :>)

-dman93
 

Arclight

SAR guy
Is there a good engineering reason for not having stops on the hinges? This would seem like the obvious way to transfer weight to the hinge. It may be that they are simply not needed with a functioning torsion bar, but it seems like a fairly straightforward change to make.

Arclight
 

tacollie

Glamper
They are still telling me 2-3 weeks. At this point I take that as unknown. AR doesn't have any in stock. 5star rv doesn't either. Does anybody know any other dealers? Google did list any. There aren't any I could find in the Flippac site.


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dman93

Adventurer
Arclight, putting stops on the hinges would transfer a huge amount of force into the hinge and the attachment points, due to the leverage created by the length of the lid. If the lid weighs 100 lbs, centered about 40" from the hinges, that's a torque of 4000 in lbs. if that torque is stopped at the hinge, even 4" from the hinge, that's 1000 lbs force fed into the the hinge and shell connections, or 500 lbs per side. And realistically, it's probably closer than 4", increasing the load even more. At least that's my perspective; others may shed a different light on this. My experience is that the tent does support quite a bit of the load when the lid is fully open, but I always worry that it may rip apart of the lid falls quickly.

-dman93
 

tacollie

Glamper
Going with plan B. Just ordered parts to do a t bar delete. If I ever do get a warranty bar maybe it could be a good template to for someone to replicate.


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mtnbike28

Expedition Leader
Please document the process and even part number/prices/suppliers for the rest of us. It is nice knowing the delete option is there.....
 

Camelfilter

Explorer
Going with plan B. Just ordered parts to do a t bar delete. If I ever do get a warranty bar maybe it could be a good template to for someone to replicate.


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Bummer!

Tip for a portion of the delete mod:

if you can, weld a nut (or have someone do so) to the back of whatever plate you use to attach the ball joint ends to the Flippac lid. I think most of us just used 2"x 2" 90 degree plates, I didn't add a nut. Now a ball joint end on one side is a little bit loose. Something I need to shore up (somehow) over time...
 

tacollie

Glamper
I will write something up when I'm done. I am just copying what rhino and timber have done.

Any tips are much appreciated! I should have everything finished up next weekend. We are going to Utah for thanksgiving and we don't want to sleep on the ground like common folk.

My buddies own a metal fab shop which helps a lot. They are letting me use whatever I need. They don't do overland stuff much but if you are board and want to see some cool stuff check out luftkraftfab on Instagram.


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tacollie

Glamper
My truck is right 7' tall and I am 5'9". How long would you guys recommend for my poles to open and close the lid?


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Dave Bennett

Adventurist
The OEM FRP torsion bar has 23 splines, 60.5 inches in length. This one has been in service since 2009 (5+years, many trips).

image.jpg
 
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mtnbike28

Expedition Leader
The height of the truck 7 feett added to the length of the top (80 inches?) plus 2 or 3 feet to give you walk to the other side while "flipping" minus your height. That is just a suggestion, someone who has done this, please chime in!

My truck is right 7' tall and I am 5'9". How long would you guys recommend for my poles to open and close the lid?


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dman93

Adventurer
My truck is right 7' tall and I am 5'9". How long would you guys recommend for my poles to open and close the lid?

See my posts on my t-bar delete ... I gave all those details. But there are several options, and your preference may vary. My final version uses two-poles which telescope and pin together, to provide 10' length for the tip-over process, but can be disassembled and stowed more easily than two 10' poles. The longer length is ~7' of 3/4" conduit (actually EMT, it's slightly different) to stow in the hammock sleeves. The other piece is 5' long with 2' overlap for a total length of 10' and I just lay those in the bed when not used.

-dman93
 

tacollie

Glamper
I just checked - actually my poles are just 8' long ... 7' hammock poles with 1' extension. Here's the thread with my and camelfilter's details:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/129940-Flippac-torsion-bar-delete-modification

More than 8' may be easier to use for part of the flip procedure, but can be cumbersome or even hazardous if it gets out of control. There's a lot of weight and a lot energy when the lid starts dropping. Take care ...

Thanks. I have read through your thread a couple times. I am using some tubing I have laying around. Should be be plenty strong.


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