My "New to Me" LR3

[GORM]

Let the beatings begin. I was very excited to drive home my LR3 - 2008 LR3 HSE. I do however have what I believe is a significant problem. The rover loses height overnight so thisis textbook air suspension leak. Once at height, the compressor does stop and I did not notice it coming back on unless I made changes to the ride height during testing of the operation. The truck does not list to one side, it's even across the board. Thinking this means it could be compressor or tank seals.

Seen some posts about pulling the fuse overnight so I can possibly isolate which wheels(s) are bad
Does it sound like I have diagnoised this right?
Are there other common things to check and/or consider replacement - seals out of AC, etc.

I'm handy and expecting (hoping) to have to do some work myself. This is to get closer to my new vehicle and save some $.

Thanks in advance

Kent

 

[jerdog53]

Welcome Kent to LR ownership and the forum!

 

[getlost4x4]

When you park the car overnight, leave the drivers door open. This stops the system from self leveling. Then in the morning, which ever side has the leak will be sitting lower then the rest.

make sure to turn off your dome lights to keep you battery from dying

 

[unseenone]

a spray bottle of soapy water can be your friend in this case. Being in PA, you might also carefully inspect the air tank, as they can rust out and leak. How often is the compressor running.

 

[A.J.M]

Disconnect the battery, let it sit overnight.
It will sink on the leaking side and that's when you get checking air lines etc.

I'm doing this tonight with my own 04 model as it sinks at the front.

I would check front lower arms for knocks or clunks.
Jack up and support car and give back wheel a shake, movement is likely the upper arm bushes.

If the mileage is near 75k, I would get the autobox flushed as ZF, the box makers suggest that for oil changes.
I'm sure there are a few guys who can comment about cleaning the throttle body.

 

[GORM]

I did not notice it coming on again after it was filled/ raised to the proper height - even when driving I could not hear it re-engaging. When the air was running it stayed on maybe 30 seconds. I should note I just acquired this vehicle and I doubt it has been driven much in at least 2 months. I'm doing some investigative work on my own but the dealer (non-LR dealer) will be taking a look at it. I was fairly well armed with the info from this site (thanks all) and dealer indicated if we had to take to LR Dealer to address we would. Not too nervous yet but will try to execute what I can from among the advice given.

Thanks
Kent

 

[GORM]

UPDATE:
Tried to watch the AC/ height adjustment with the truck running and in the garage. Compressor would go for 30-40 seconds every 4-6 minutes. Cycles were getting further each one (4, then 5 then 6). I was unable to do the soap trick. I put rover into 4x4 mode, opened door and yanked battery cable, measured heights from mudflaps in the garage. Heights were (LF/RF/RR/LR - 9.125/ 9/ 12.875/12.875).

Findings: LF & RF dropped 1/2 each, rears were fine. I plugged in battery to no issue but when I shut the door, the rover adjusted height down to what appeared to be standard height. When I started it, AC came on for the same 30-40 seconds.

So it looks like I have an ISSUE up front - will do the soap thing and open up AC compartment - any other suggestions? Air Tank seemed in good shape, only a few specks of rust on outside. Im also thinking of duplicating the test but starting from STANDARD mode.

Thanks
Kent

 

[DiscoNels]

My money is on the front air valve block which is located in the Front Right wheel well behind the well liner (you need to peel it back to gain access to valve block). With a 2008 you very well could have a problem with your air compressors air dryer spewing white powder from the desiccant breaking down into the system and fouling up the valve block. If this is the problem you'll want to replace the air dryer or rebuild it before it destroys your new part. (plenty of information online about doing this) I just recently replaced my air dryer, and replaced the air compressor piston rings and installed kit JPO500010 which contains a bunch of o-rings, and springs.

You should be able to find a valve block online for under $120-$150. Here is a great video by RSW Solutions that shows exactly where it is and how to get to it. http://youtu.be/7VQ2kbIKgEw at around 3:30 mins is where you'll see him get to the vblock. He's got another video where he takes apart his valve block which shows many, many seals. All of these can get fouled up by the white powder desiccant.

Good luck with you diagnostics. Do your research and take your time there is plenty of information online as there are 100's of people that have already had your same problem and posted about it.

 

[Mack73]

Ditto on the front valve block

 

[GORM]

Update: it was the front valve block. I carefully removed, cleaned and re-installed as interim measure. 1/2 to 1" drop has immediately redid to less than 1/2". Will remove and clean others, check air drier and consider air compressor update kit. Thanks to all on this thread.

 

[DiscoNels]

Gorm, good to hear things are progressing to the better. I recently replaced my rear air valve block after discovering that the rear was dropping once I pulled the fuse overnight. I'm all good now and sometimes in the morning when I fire up the vehicle the compressor doesn't even need to run, it keeps that much pressure now. I recently replaced the air dryer, replaced piston rings, and did the JPO500010 Compressor rebuild kit that came with o-rings, springs, and new screws. Going to give it a workout next week in Moab for the LR National Rally.